Engine Mount R&R

[Don B]

I am in the process of replacing the engine mounts on my 95 4x4 6.5 Suburban as part of a get well project I have recently started (head gasket and head resurface, water pump, hoses, belts, remote FSD, etc.) and was curious what the best way to lift the engine to clear the mounts is? The manual advises not to use the oil pan or harmonic dampener as a lifting point but this leaves little options. In addition is necessary to disconnect the lower suspension pivot as the manual instructs.
Is there anything else that should be considered considering the 160K on the vehicle?

[Barry Nave]

on my truck there are loop's on top of the Eng.
Just have to remove Hood and rent an Eng. lift.

[Don B]

Thank you for the advice but unfortunately the hooks are attached to the heads which are currently at the machine shop.
I know that the manual instructs not to use the balancer as a pushing point but under the circumstances and considering that allot of weight is removed, (heads, intake manifold, etc.)I'm curious if the balancer could be used in this case?

[Barry Nave]

Thats a tough call,still have weight with trany.
If you were to un mount the trany cross over and jacked on the front and lift the rear at the trany same time it could be done. Though I'll let other members make suggestions.

[Turbine Doc]

Run bolt & chain through head mount bosses/threads in block, you have to replace head bolts anyway use them as lift points, a cushioned 4x4 across the fenders and a turnbuckle or short throw chanfall/come-a-long should give you a way to lift. You may want to brace the 4x4 spanning the engine bay on the ends with some more 4x4 so fenders don't have to bear full weight.

Another though I would suspect with heads pulled engine weight is significantly reduced; a piece of 3/4" plywood across the oil pan sould sufficiently spread the weight so you aren't at risk of crushing the pan if using that as a jacking point, add some 2x4 & shims to fill the gap and you can use some of the pan aft of the hump also, have your 3/4 ply span the pan and the blocked up area.

[More Power]

A bottle jack and a piece of wood on the oil pan is the way to go. I've changed a couple sets of these mounts. The pan is actually pretty strong. The three bolts/nuts that bolt each bottom-half mount to the frame look a little hard to get to, but with the right hand/arm position and a little patience, you'll get them in/out. The nuts are swaged to prevent loosening on their own, and an air ratchet might be of some help, but I've done it the old fashioned way using a couple 12-point box-end wrenches.

MP

[Don B]

Thanks for all the suggestions; a 3/4" piece of plywood placed under the aft portion of the oil pan, a small floor jack, an a set of 15mm. wrenches did the trick, now it's on to the rest of the project.