Won't Start After Pump Install

[cschneider]

Just finished my pump install and started priming the system and trying to get this thing started and I have nothing. After about ten 20-second starter runs to prime the system I still don't have any fuel in the return line. I even cracked two injectors to see if there was anything there and they were completely dry. I checked the hose going into the pump and there is fuel in there. Any ideas?

[britannic]

First, make sure fuel is being pumped by the lift pump. Once that's confirmed, loosen all of the injector line nozzles and the fuel filter air bleed and then crank the engine in 20-30 second bursts with 4 minutes rest, until fuel comes out of the air bleed and weeps from the injectors. Close the air bleed, tighten each nozzle to 20lbs and start the engine.

[britannic]

BTW, did you ever remove the IP housing cover? Is the pink wire connected to the front terminal of the of the IP and is it getting 12v?

[cschneider]

Britanic to the rescue! The lift pump is getting fuel and is pumping at 8psi. I have fuel going into the injection pump becuase I loosened that line and fuel started squirting out. About how long does this usally take? Maybe the ten bursts I gave it just wasn't enough. Anyways let me get this completely straight, I'll loosen all the injector line nozzles and leave them loose, turn the plastic screw on the top of the fuel filter counter clockwise and then crank. Now, do I remove the pink wire from the IP (I already confirmed that it has 12v when ignition in run position) until the fuel comes out of the injectors? Also, I'm not sure what you meant by the IP housing cover, I had the pump overhauled and have not done anything except install it since then. Last question: about the fuel filter bleed screw; when I open the bleed screw the pressure goes down to zero and it appears that all the fuel just goes out the fitting right underneath the screw, is this right? I put a piece of vacuum line on the fitting and routed it to a drip pan so I wouldn't get diesel all over the engine and there doesn't appear to be any bubbles or anything like that. I wish I were more versed in this area but unfortunately this is my first time doing an IP and injectors. Thanks a million for the help!
-Chris

[DmaxMaverick]

cschneider

After you get a clear flow from the filter bleed, close it. Leaving it open just wastes fuel and makes a mess.

Once the filter is bleed, crack open the injector lines at the injectors. Make sure the ignition is on and the pink wire is connected. You MUST have the pump solenoid energized in order to get fuel through the pump. If you are not getting 12V at the pink wire, no fuel will no reach the injectors.

Once fuel reaches any of the injectors, tighten them. If your glow circuit is working, it should fire right off. It may be a little rough until all the air is bleed, and then should run normal.

This process can take quite a while. Some more, some less.

Good luck.

[cschneider]

Wish me luck, tomorrow I will try again. I'll keep you guys posted.

[cschneider]

I have done at least 30 of these 30 second bursts and I'm still not even getting fuel at 2 of the injectors. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this. I'm starting to get a little worried.

[catmandoo]

some of the old 5.7 olds we used to do could take forever to prime then the next would prime after 3 or 4 cranks. at least it sounds like your getting fuel to 6 of the injectors.sometimes if ya just let em set awhile the air will work itself out. crank for a while and let set for 1/2 hour or so and try again,heck charge the batts while ya wait but if ya do unhook charger before cycling glowplugs, i've blown controllers doing that evidently they don't like the higher voltage.

[britannic]

Originally posted by cschneider:
I have done at least 30 of these 30 second bursts and I'm still not even getting fuel at 2 of the injectors. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this. I'm starting to get a little worried. Did it start yet? Have you left those two injector nozzles loose to bleed them? Are the inj. lines free of obstructions?

[cschneider]

Nope, still hasn't gotten fuel to those two injectors much less started. Everything is brand new: new injectors, rebuilt pump new injector lines, I just don't know what could be the problem.

[tpitt]

Even with two injectors not getting fuel it should at least fire, or attempt to on the other cylinders. Are you sure you don't have a timing problem? tpitt

[EWC]

You might try bleeding the fuel system by leaving all the glow plugs out , tighten all the injector lines and cranking the engine over in cycles . When you see a mist coming out of the glow plug holes , you have fuel . This will give you a faster cranking speed and hopefully help you to bleed the system . I would also have the throttle all the way down .

[britannic]

Originally posted by cschneider:
Nope, still hasn't gotten fuel to those two injectors much less started. Everything is brand new: new injectors, rebuilt pump new injector lines, I just don't know what could be the problem. The way the pump works, it would need obstructed lines or injectors to keep just two dry. Was the IP a runner before? Is the shutoff rack working correctly? The solenoids have been known to be weak, even on new pumps to the point the metering valve won't turn on enough to run fuel. Is there any chance some debris from the IP, got into the hydraulic head? I found some tiny slivers on the magnetized shutoff solenoid in one of my pumps after it stopped feeding fuel properly.

[britannic]

Another thought: the injector line nozzle nuts need to be loosened at least a turn or more to bleed them and see fuel. You could really loosen them off, remove the GPs as suggested, make sure that the pink lead is giving 12v to the front IP terminal and put your welly to the floor when cranking. This is my technique and it really saves the stress on the starter as well as speed it all up.

Another thought: is the IP housing full of fuel when you remove the cover?

[cschneider]

I have not removed the injection pump cover yet. The pump is a rebuilt 4911 that was run on a test stand and calibrated. I think I will tighten up the fiting and take out the glow plugs and crank it that way. I haven't given up yet, I'm just a little discouraged. Thanks to everyone for all their help.

[cschneider]

I washed my hands of the job on Tuesday and sent it down to Vargas Turbo. He opened up the head and found a stuck metering screw and a little bit of surface rust. It looks like it took me just a bit too long to get the thing back together. I'm just glad it's running again and turned out to be something relatively minor. Thanks for all the help everyone!