View Full Version : Stupid Radiator
4x4Dreamer
08-11-2004, 05:03
Taking out my radiator cuz it sprung a leak. The bottom line on the drivers side (tranny cooler I believe) is stuck and I've done a fairly good job at rounding off the nut.
Friend of mine said to just cut it, and splice it back together with a piece of fuel line.
What's the pro opinion on the board?
The shop is going to rod (hopefully) the radiator, if not, I've found new ones with lifetime warranties for $270. Is that a fair price?
ropinfool
08-11-2004, 06:42
If it were me, I would go with the new radiator. when I replaced mine, the quotes to have it re-rodded were as much as the new radiator. If you keep the old one, go ahead and cut the tube, you can heat the fitting up a bit and get it out that way, put a new steel fitting in and use rubber tubing to connect the two. I always flare both ends, just a bit, to give the hose something to grab onto. Good Luck. John
[ 08-13-2004, 10:06 AM: Message edited by: ropinfool ]
4x4Dreamer
08-11-2004, 07:42
They quoted me 85 for the Rod, $270 plus tax for a new radiator. I THINK they said it was a 4 core as well. But I'll have to double check.
I'd like to just buy a new one, but I can't really justify it if the old one is fixable. Hopefully they say the old one is toast.
catmandoo
08-11-2004, 11:14
the 4 cores will stick up flush with the rad support,think the 3 does to but the little 2 cores stick down about 2 inchs from the top and as ropinfool said just cut the line,flare the end and then if you been thinking about an aux trans cooler in front of the rad now would be a good time
4x4Dreamer
08-11-2004, 11:26
I plan to put in an aux cooler, but funds prevent it at this time. I think that splicing in with rubber will make it an easy job later though.
I may go ahead and replace my fan clutch though...when it comes on when you start the engine means the fan clutch is toast...right?
DmaxMaverick
08-11-2004, 11:46
I may go ahead and replace my fan clutch though...when it comes on when you start the engine means the fan clutch is toast...right? No. They are supposed to do that. If it doesn't, then suspect a bad clutch. With a cold engine, there should be considerable resistance in the clutch. With engine off before you start for the first time for the day (overnight cold engine), spin the fan by hand. You should feel the resistance and the fan should not spin freely. If it does, then it's bad. The clutch should also have no side to side play.
4x4Dreamer
08-11-2004, 12:16
Oh, then that just saved me 80 bucks....thanks :D
Just got off the phone with the radiator place, hopefully I can have it dropped off tomorrow morning and picked up tomorrow evening. I might be back on the road by Saturday if the hurricane permits.
catmandoo
08-11-2004, 17:25
oh and if you do cut the line and use rubber hose to splice,get trans cooler hose,it's thicker and will take oil better then fuel hose,won't tend to kink either.
4x4Dreamer
08-12-2004, 04:57
well, I managed to get it out without cutting the line, so that worked out. It's in my garage now. I even had time to put in a new thermostat...guy at Discount gave me the wrong gaskets...so I used the Permatex gasket maker. We'll see how well it holds.
We'll see if I can get the radiator into the shop this week...with the impending hurricane..we'll see what happens.
Larry Andrews
08-12-2004, 22:56
Good luck with the 'canes. Been through Diana, Hugo and Fran myself...it's only fun if it doesn't impact your life negatively for a long time. About the only really good thing is that you really do get to meet most of your neighbors...
Anyway, here's another tip. JB Weld will fix practically any radiator forever. The trick is to open up the crack just a tad so that the goo will press through and surround the cracked metal all the way on both sides. As long as you make sure that the stuff squeezes in, you're good. The trick I've seen is to heat the rad up in an oven, then cap it and apply the goo. As it cools, it will suck the goo in and make a strong repair.
hth, la
4x4Dreamer
08-17-2004, 06:36
I took my radiator to a shop and the old guy came out and said that if he tried to work on my radiator, it would fall apart. He showed me where it had been patched in the past and where a patch had been welded in one of the tanks. He priced a new one for me and it was 381.00 :eek: .
He asked me if I wanted to order that one, I let him know that I woudln't need him to. I called up another shop that had quoted me 271 for a new one, they said they didn't have one in stock. I asked how soon they could have one...they said 1 1/2 hours. I picked it up last night and now have a new Modine radiator sitting on the floor in my office. Man is it pretty!!! :D
Gonna try to get her in tonight. Put in a new thermostat last week, so life should be good. I may have to patch my overflow tank because I think it has a leak as well. The old bottom radiator mounts are gone...where is a good place to get new ones? Dealer?
4x4Dreamer
08-18-2004, 07:04
Okay, the radiator is in, I just have to remember how to fit the shroud, cover, and Radiator clamps. Then Tighten her up, top it off with coolant and take her for a spin.
Here's hoping I did everything right.
ropinfool
08-19-2004, 13:00
Well since you saved the money on the fan clutch, now you can afford the tranny cooler. :D John
4x4Dreamer
08-19-2004, 13:38
I think I discovered that I already have one. There were two more radiators in front of mine...one was for the AC, the other seems to be the tranny cooler. Cool.
Radiator is in and buttoned up, just having a little clearance issue with the fan hitting the shroud at the bottom, then I just fill 'er up and test it out.
Then I just have to fix the pesky fuel problem.
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