oil bypass systems

[cudaaa]

Between amsoil & oilguard which one is better?
More economical?
Should I run delo 400 or amsoil?
Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks cudaaa

[dieselrealtor]

I would like to know too! :D

[Turbine Doc]

I am most satisfied with the AMZOIL dual remote kit I got from JK, he has adapters that allow for use of Baldwin elements

[cudaaa]

tbogemirep does baldwin have a bypass filter? What micron rating? What is your average oil change? Does your oil stay clean or does it turn dark right away? Thanks for the help cudaaa

[gvt]

I've been leaning toward the Oilguard. I like the 1 micron filtration. It looks like the filter sandwich from the Duramax kit will work on a 6.5L, the oil filter diameters and threads are the same. But the oil drain plug will not work. The duramax is a 14mm-1.5 thread and the 6.5 is a 12mm-1.75 thread. It would not be too difficult to make a drain plug with the return fitting. Any volunteers? I'll do some checking...

[Turbine Doc]

Yes it does have a bypass with it I run the B164 2 micron for bypass, and the primary is a B251 23 micron, oil stays pretty clean, been running mine for about 60 K, was changing at 3500 mi interval, last oil test results said I could double that frequency if I wanted from what their tests showed

[gvt]

I installed the Oilguard EPS-20 on my 6.5L this last weekend. I purchased the kit for the Duramax with the intent of having a friend machine a drain plug return fitting for the 6.5L. But, I ended up searching the web until I found one. Overton's (www.overtons.com) sells an Oil Drain Kit (part #30334) for GM powered outboards that has the same fitting. The female threads on the side of the return fitting are larger diameter than the threads on the Oilguard return fitting, so I had to buy a different adapter (3/8" male NPT X 3/8" JIC, I think?).

I've been running 5W-40 Delvac 1 at 6,000 mile intervals with a Puralator PureOne full flow filter. I've had several oil analysis' done to set a baseline for an extended drain interval. I'll do another at 6,000 miles with the Oilguard in place, then probably around 12,000 miles. I'm hoping to be able to go to 15,000-20,000 mile intervals.

I'm not sure why Oilguard is so reluctant to include a kit for the 6.5L, it sure would be easier! Thanks

[Kennedy]

I've been working on a system for some time now that uses a sandwich adapter for both supply AND return. The only hangup is that the seal for the filter leaves a bit to be desired as we've seen some weeping. Working on a solution.

The element is a true depth type with wound (roll type) industrial tissue. Looking at the oil guard, I have to question just how uniform you can get a semi random twine ball to filter???

The dual remote from Amsoil is a good alternative as it remotes the full flow element also, but I'd look at increasing the hose size. MANY thousands are in use as is, but I'd be more comfortable knowing that all of my oil supply did not have to travel through a 13/32" (I believe) hose...

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
I have the amsoil dual kit and have been very happy. It seems to high quality and was fairly painless to install. With a 4x4 it can be a little tight and I put in some extra heat shielding. I never noticed any loss as to oil pressure. With the remote oil set-up it enables me to run the largest primary filter I can find, 2qrt, for a total of 9qrts capacity.
John-"but I'd be more comfortable knowing that all of my oil supply did not have to travel through a 13/32" one question--what is the oil line size on most 6.5s for the cooler?
L8r
Conley Janssen

[Kennedy]

Early were 1/2", late were 5/8"

Main oil galleries are seldom sized below 1/2", and that is a rigid passage that is relatively short.

[Spindrift]

Is it possible to mod the Amsoil unit to accomodate 5/8" hoses, or will the supply and return openings always be a "restriction" in this system?

[LanduytG]

Yes the Amsoil unit can have 5/8 hoses. I have done it on my own 6.5 but really nothing to be gained and 5/8 hoses are a real pain to work with. Yes early 6.5's had 1/2" but that is ID not OD. To each his own but the Amsoil unit is so easy to install. With the correct bracket it can be done in and hour or less. You don't have to find the supply and worse you don't have to find a good place to return it.

Greg

[Shotuscnc]

could a bypass filter be mounted in series with our bypass oil cooler... this makes perfect sense to me... i guess we hate to restrict flow thru the cooler... any ideas or comments..

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by Shotuscnc:
could a bypass filter be mounted in series with our bypass oil cooler... this makes perfect sense to me... i guess we hate to restrict flow thru the cooler... any ideas or comments.. Shotuscnc,

I would not do anything to that might reduce/restrict the amount going through our oil coolers.

On our 6.5's just above the oil filter there is a 3/8" pipe port that is plugged it is fairly easy to get to.

The return is a bit harder some options: the oil fill tube, drill intake manifold bolt (I used the 2nd from the rear is open to the pan), I have seen articles where they used an air hammer punch to drive a hole in the oil pan this type of puncture leaves enough metal folded that can be threaded with a tap.

It the articles that you can order from www.thedieselpage.com/books.htm (http://www.thedieselpage.com/books.htm) has a good writeup done by Dr Lee on bypass systems IIRC its in the 97 book.

Carey

[Hye]

In a previous post, someone asked about the oil flow in a 6.5L. I found a drawing in my C/K Truck 1994 Service Manual GM book that didn't really give me a clear picture of the path. Now I've found this description in the book.

" ...Oil is drawn into the pump through a pickup screen and pipe.
"Pressurized oil is routed to the oil cooler in the radiator. A bypass valve is provided should the oil cooler become restricted. Oil flows from the cooler to a full flow oil filter. An oil filter bypass valve is provided should the oil filter become restricted.
"Oil flows from the oil filter to the oil galleries..."
If you have an external oil cooler, I guess that it goes there instead.
So, running the oil cooler line through a bypass filter would decrease the flow through the cooler, open the cooler bypass valve, send uncooled oil to the main filter and then to the galleries.

[computer monkey]

GVT, I have called Oilguard EPS-20 and talked with them about swaping the Durmax plug for a GM 6.5 and they said that would not be a problem. I do not know why they did not do that with you?

[LanduytG]

You need to know which plug you have. You can have a 12mm or a 1/2".

Greg

[gvt]

computer monkey, See my previous post, the Duramax and the 6.5L have different drain plug threads. That is why I purchased drain plug fitting from Overton's. According to Mark, Oilguard does not have one with the correct threads for the 6.5L. Maybe they have decided to offer one for the 6.5L? The oil filter sandwich is interchangeable, is that what Mark was referring to?

I plan to follow up with oil analysis results, time will tell if the Oilguard works as advertised! Thanks

[nemcl1]

Anyone tried Frantz by-pass filters? I have used these & installed them for a few freinds over the years on gas engines with good results.Now I just put two of these paralelled on my 97 6.5 td.I just bought this truck to have a second vehicle,so it will take a long time evaluate.

[slagona]

gvt,

looking at the picture of the oil drain kit from overtons, I'm curious as to how you installed it. It looks like the oil drain plug side of the contraption has a hose barb on one side and female threads on the other.

Can you tell me how it works?

Thanks.

--Scott

[gvt]

slagona,
There is not a hose barb connection on the fitting. The only difference between the two drain plug fittings is that the Overtons fitting has larger female NPT theads in the side of the fitting (3/8" vs. 1/4"???). If you look at the picture of the Duramax installation on the Oilguard web page you can see the NPT to JIC adapter between the drain plug fitting and JIC to hose barb fitting. Hope I didn't make this more confusing. I could snap a picture of my install if you would like. Thanks

[slagona]

Thanks for clearing it up for me.....

The "hose barb" looking side of the fitting in the picture in overtons is actually the male threads of the oil pan fitting. I may go this route also.

--Scott

[BlueSky94]

I've used the Amsoild Dual remote setup on 4 other vehicles and have had great success with it. Only problem I've ever had was that on a Cummins ISB, the bypass valve assembly would product the most awefull whine at times from the pressure.

As for installation on my 98 6.5 burban 4x4: it looks like a tight fit - does anyone have a few pics you could post that should how you ran the lines and where the bypass filters were mounted? Did you get this vertical or did you have to lay it down horizontal bolted to the frame somewhere?..pictures are worth a 1000 words.

Thanks!

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by BlueSky94:
I've used the Amsoild Dual remote setup on 4 other vehicles and have had great success with it. Only problem I've ever had was that on a Cummins ISB, the bypass valve assembly would product the most awefull whine at times from the pressure.

As for installation on my 98 6.5 burban 4x4: it looks like a tight fit - does anyone have a few pics you could post that should how you ran the lines and where the bypass filters were mounted? Did you get this vertical or did you have to lay it down horizontal bolted to the frame somewhere?..pictures are worth a 1000 words.

Thanks! I just did my 99 BURB, had to drill the floor just under the throttle pedal for my install, because for some unknown reason the extended bracket was too short, so filter touched the torsion bar. This way gives me the most clearance, allowing for the largest filters to be used and not show themsleves below the chassis rail.

The four holes drilled in the floor go through a heat sheld too, so you different length bolts, maybe spacers to hold the unit in place and level. Extra care should be taken to secure fasteners, and some type of backing plate, or large washers to prevent fasteners from pulling through the floor.

The hoses are routed to the outside of the exhaust down pipe. I removed the down pipe, cleaned it, coated it w/ceramic paint, then used header wrap in layers, sealing each layer w/high heat silicone, and tied off w/stainless header wrap straps. This works good, but it is advised that a good heat barrier still be placed on the oil lines should the header wrap fail. AreoQuip #AE-102/624-AS1072-14 SIL-FG D slips over the AN8 line and fittings.

As for the oil lines rubbing the chassis, they do, so bolt them in place w/proper straps, or use a section of heater hose over them at the point where they may chafe because of motor mount movement.

As for pictures, I hope I can post some soon.

[ 12-28-2004, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: DA BIG ONE ]