Update on Engine Damage Report

[EscaladeDiesel]

The engine has been torn apart and I finally got a list of the parts that need replacing: Crank, Rod and Main Bearing, one rod, set of rings, and complete set of gaskets. Where is the best place to get these parts at the best price, my mechanic hasn't priced them yet. Or, should I get a long block? After all this I am just not sure which way is best, I certainly don't want to put good money after bad. :confused:

[ 02-27-2004, 08:14 AM: Message edited by: EscaladeDiesel ]

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
If it was me I'd really look at getting a crate motor or a long block. Wonder what the price diff would be? Most crates come with a good warrenty also.
L8r
Conley

[Quack_Addict]

Forgive me for not being up to speed on the history of this, but why not just buy a short block and get your current heads redone at the shop?

[grape]

[andrewfessler]

When the bottom dopped out of my 6.5 I bought a crated new engine from a dealer. Paid $3800.

I did get new injectors and a water pump and had to move over other accessories. But it sure beat having to take the time and do all the other work.

Good luck.

[EscaladeDiesel]

Where can I get a short block? All I see offered are long blocks.

[Barry Nave]

I have seen your post from the day you lost the oil line. what happen to the rod?
Is your crank that far gone?
I would think the block,piston should be easy to recondition?
Jamie Advent would be the one I would call.

[EscaladeDiesel]

I wish I had more knowledge about actual engine rebuilding, and am not always sure what questions to ask. If not for everyone on this site I would be really lost. Can I send these parts out to have them rebuilt? What kind of prices should the cost be? At this point I am sorta at my mechanics mercy. I think the block is okay. Apparently one of the problems is that the number 8 piston has swollen inside the cylinder wall.

[Barry Nave]

What I like about this Web ,that JB has is we are able to talk about the little things that the DS4 gives us. Now when we go to Eng. rebuild, and you as I don't have that knowledge :eek: ( Jim we need spell CK)
I still would take the time to go with Jamie Advent. It's just a call away :D
A good GAS rebuilder is not up to are 6.5.

My 2c

[odee]

If it was up to me I would have the block checked out really good by a companant machine shop. I have collected quite a few 6.2 and 6.5 engines to find out the blocks are cracked in the main web area. I have yet to find a good 6.5 block with out having to pay double or triple what I give for the sub when I got it. I agree on the gas engine mech. vs the diesel.

[Tractor]

I have been following this topic since the begining. I lost a oil cooler line last year. I would again check the bearings in the turbo, to see if there is any free play or wiggle in them. The turbo from what I know is the first unit to loose the oil. It sets up higher then the bottom end. From the last time I said this some months ago. I still feel you are going to need a new engine and turbo. Yes it,s tough to say and do. But if you what to trust your truck on a long haul you have to bear down and fix it right.
GOOD LUCK....
TRACTOR.

[EscaladeDiesel]

As much as I love my Suburban Diesel (all my Suburbans actually), at 50,000 miles I have already LOST faith in its ability to be reliable and durable. I paid a huge premium for it new and have paid a premium to keep it maintained and to repair non-warranty items, not to mention the a/c line (twice), the trans lines, the oil lines (twice), so I am not sure why I even want to keep it at this point. I am sadly realizing I need to just get it running in the most "cost effective" way and trade it in. Now I just need to find the parts to fix it or a good place to have them repaired

[Lug]

The reason the ideal 'burb in my mind is a 67-72 no ac, manual tranny, manual hubs, 4-hi 2-hi 4-lo xfr case, non electric 6.5 with maybe a turbo and intercooler. Very little "black magic" just good old mechanical systems. Guess that is a outgrowth of working on SuperCubs and 172. Nice simple systems that work day in and day out.
Justin

[Tractor]

Escalade Diesel
I totally understand what you are saying. We have less then 6,000 on our new 6.5 engine. I just got off the phone with my boy who is driving it to college in Montana. The truck runs awsome to say the least. The fuel milage is down from the other engine, but with only 6,000 on it we can live with that for now. The ****** oil cooler lines still leak, even though we have had them checked several times. That is the reason we even got the new engine in the first place. It is a 98 with 4.10 gearing. We love the truck. But he just ordered some after market oil cooler lines too try to solve this deal. How GM expects us to stay with them is unknown to me. The pump has gave some trouble, the oil lines gave you and me trouble. I have always slept and breathe GM but at 40,000 plus for a new loaded diesel a guy has the thought of checking around. Now the DURAMAX has been worked on a bit. But it is a better engine by far and is a big step forward for them. You don,t have to worry about a cracked block with it. Think they wiil ever put a 6.6L in a outfit for you.
TRACTOR and T.J. #364 with a couple of dandy slightly cranked 6.5,s and a 1 ton dually H.O. 6 speed CUMMINS with leather and all that stuff. Just turned 6,500 miles Friday night hauling a load to Billings.

[triggerman]

It's obvious GM put some design faults in these trucks the way ALL brands do to keep the service dept. busy. Personaly I will stick it out with the 6.5 because in the long run it WILL be the cheapest to maintain due to a basic design and plenty of available parts. The thought of a future D-Max was completely blown out of the water when I read a dealer will charge over $4,000 to do a new injector install on a D max. I just did mine for about $230. The fuel mileage between the two is so close it doesn't figure in. Basicaly if you can aford a New Truck every couple of years, yea, go for the show room warrenty deal. The fact that no one ealse makes a Diesel sub, I personaly would bite the bullet and look into a new AMG short block and go from there. The revised block casting they use (much heavier "Hummer") would be a PROVEN sound platform to build a Hi milage performer. I know there are a lot of Hi mile trucks out there, but the experts will tell you it's a gamble with the older GM blocks. Also the people here haved have had alot to do with making the old 6.5 a keeper. :D

[EscaladeDiesel]

I have certainly thought about an Excursion Power stroke, but I have no clue if they are any more reliable than a 6.5 or not. That being said, where do I find an Hummer short block and how much will it cost or MORE will it cost?

[triggerman]

To contact AMG go to www.amgeneralcorp.com (http://www.amgeneralcorp.com) and their contact # is in history. The AM General Optimizer 6500, (6.5) has since 11/01 been built on a new "moly" block casting that incorperates taller/wider bearing caps and improved head bolt bosses. I once read a test on the power stroke Excurtion. The basic find was they liked the power but the truck was exceptionaly heavy so the milage was poor. The truck had the worst turning radious of anything they had ever tested. And the spring rates were too soft for the wieght of the beast, making it a poor handleing ride. Other than that, they liked it! Keep us posted on what you decide. smile.gif

[triggerman]

Oh, almost forgot, go to www.thedieselstop.com (http://www.thedieselstop.com) to spy on the Power Stroke people.

[dieselhumvee]

both kennedy and the diesel depot have hummer short blocks, maybe 3500???

[Tractor]

Well said TRIGGERMAN. I use to fight in highschool over a Chevy and Ford debate. I still eat and sleep GM. The CUMMINS is in my stable because I wanted a 6 speed and leather interior. GM does not have one with a DURAMAX. We are almost sure the new engine we have in the 98 is from General Engine Products. We have noticed the oil is much cleaner in between oil changes then before. It starts as good as any gas engine in cold weather. The engine with turbo was great chunk of money. But if we had to do it over again, we would with out a doubt do the same thing. A new GM engine. That truck will be with us for years to come. Your Suburban can be too.
TRACTOR

[EscaladeDiesel]

My mechanic says to rebuild mine will cost $3,200 in labor, $1800 in parts plus tax of $150, so I am looking at $5,800. If I use a GM engine at $7000, (his quote not mine) plus labor of $1,540 and $578 of tax, I am looking at OVER $9,100, plus I am SURE there will be OTHER costs as things usually go. Seems like a TON of money to sink into a 1998 Suburban. :confused:

[grape]

$3200 labor for a guy who didn't know it was a rod knocking????????? DDDDaaaaammmmmnnnnn we freshen up an SB-2 race engine for less than $5K

[EscaladeDiesel]

Yep, I thought the same thing, but I haven't a clue what can be done at this point. I will owe him money for the tear down almost afraid what that cost will be, etc, its just a bad deal all around. Does $1550 in labor to pull an engine and put another one in seem reasonable? I was hoping to find a used running engine just to get the thing running and rolling.

[EscaladeDiesel]

Sparky (AKA GRAPE) do you happen to know of a rebuilder or mechanic in our area that you could recommend? Not sure what its gonna cost to cut my losses, but I am sure close to $1000 with labor and the fact he put in new glowplug and lifter retainer clips. What a mess.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Couldn't a guy find the engine folks he wants to deal with (Diesel Depot, etc.), put the thing on a car hauling trailer, & haul it there? I live in MN, & if I had your situation, I'd at least look into it.

In fact, I think you can get vehicles shipped. A Chev dealer in FL (http://www.dieselsuburbans.com) (click in the colored text)used to do this all the time with diesel Sub's. (I bought our Sub from him, but went down & picked it up.)

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044

[EscaladeDiesel]

Originally posted by EscaladeDiesel:
Yep, that is an option. The cheapest quote I got for shipping was $700. None of them were fond of the fact it was Heavy NON-running Suburban. Just have to decide if I think I am going to keep the vehicle long enough to justify the price. Doesn't ANYONE here know a reputable and reasonable rebuilder in the DFW (Dallas, Fort Worth Area)? Thanks

[grape]

I don't know of anyone in the state that is really knowledgable about these diesels. My stuff I assemble myself and just have the machine work subbed out.

[Tractor]

Give Diesel Injection Service over at Lubbock, Texas a call, and talk to Brett. Maybe he can give you some help in that area. We have delt with him before and he is a good guy
TRACTOR

[JeepSJ]

I have a 1997 6.5 with a rebuilt 4911 that I may be looking to sell. See my "I may have hit a little snag" posting in the 6.2 forum. The engine has 17,000 miles on it.

Alternately, I may be interested in your Burb as a home for my engine.

[EscaladeDiesel]

Interesting thought JEEP!!! How will your engine with a 4911 work with my 1998's electronics? As I posted earlier been thinking about buying a used(but good engine) engine just to get it running and doing upgrades if necessary later...the bigger question for you is how much? You can contact me off-post is you like CMSearls1@aol.com.....Thanks

[JeepSJ]

You have mail...

[EscaladeDiesel]

hmmmm, not as of this morning I don't. CMSearls1@aol.com Just to make sure, that is a ONE (1) after the last S.

[JeepSJ]

I cut and pasted the address - let me try it again.

[JeepSJ]

Escalade - what did you decide to do with your Burb? I"m looking for something to stuff this engine into.