Failed Oil Cooler Lines

[jspringator]

While driving through the Virginia mountains at the West Virginia line, towing my trailer, the cabin filled with smoke. I thought the engine was on fire. Pulled over immediately. When I shut off the engine I noticed oil pressure at 20 lbs. After being towed to a garage in Sulfur Springs, West Virginia, the mechanic discovered that one of my aftermarket "Greg" oil lines was installed too close to the exhaust manifold, which burned a hole in it, causing oil to shoot, under pressure, on the exhaust manifold. The problem was in the installation of the line, not the lines themselves. This happened around 3:30 p.m. By the time we got towed (including trailer) to the shop it was after 5:00 p.m. The mechanic diagnosed the problem, and after much difficulty, removed the hose from the block side (without removing anything else), and the middle connection behind the grill. He cursed extensively and had burns on his arms. Believe it or not, he had a new hose section made up at a shop at 8:00 p.m. on Friday night. We were completed by 9:00 p.m., and were on the road about 10:00 p.m. The entire experience (so far) cost $350, including tow, parts and labor. I am trying to decide how much of an ahole to be to my 6.5 specialist diesel mechanic, who installed the lines and should have known better. The turbo already had about 75,000 miles on it, but appeared to boost well on the way home.

I guess, overall, provided nothing bad shows up later, I was pretty lucky. What makes me mad is this DID NOT HAVE TO HAPPEN! This guy knew reliability was my main concern, and I would have paid whatever price it took to have the lines installed properly. The only thing I can figure is the line might have been a little short. The new one was made a foot longer.

If you didn't install your aftermarket oil lines yourself, check their proximity to the exhaust manifold.

[Dihrdbowti]

Sorry to hear that James but glad that it didn't cost you more time and $$$. Even though we pay our mechanics to do the job for us I usually check their work. Not that I don't trust them completely but I have been burned, like you, on shoddy workmanship. Besides I always like to see the finished product and if the mechanic is a proud person they usually like to show off their work anyway.

[Brandon]

This is why you DO NOT use Weatherhead hoses when you are running them by exhaust manifolds or compressors. They get hot and brittle and leak. Teflon is the only way to go for heat resistance. And it is steel braided and cost less than Weatherhead. Been there done that.

[RT]

I put heatshield sleeves on my LubeSpecialist oil lines and routed them as far as possible from the manifold. No problems yet. RT

[jspringator]

What are the sleeves called, and where do I get them. I directed the mechanic to turn the fitting "down" to take it away from the manifold, but I haven't checked it. I am sure I need to add the sleeves.

[Beedee]

Parker makes a product called "Firesleeve"
Quote from their catalog
"Parker Firesleeve is a flame resistant sheath that protects the hose from extreme temperature conditions. Firesleeve easily slides over hoses and readily expands over fittings. It can be assembled with Parker FSC or properley sized wormgear clamps"
Temperature Range: -65F to +500F
I asked the local parker supplier about it, Readily avalable but pricey.
When I finally get around to building my new hoses they will be the stainless steel covered teflon with Firesleeve gaurds. The rest of the truck will fall apart before I will have to worry about the cooler lines again. ;)
Parkers web site is www.parker.com (http://www.parker.com)

[JohnC]

I don't think firesleeve is intended to protect a line from extended exposure to high temperatures. We use it extensively in aviation but it's primarily used to prevent an engine compartment fire from burning through the fuel and oil lines immediately. Eventually, insulation or not, everything will reach the same temperature...

'course it can't hurt...