maybe dead batt, maybe not?

[LanceW]

dropped it off for an alignment last night, they moved the truck this morning, but when they went to start this afternoon it acted like the batteries were dead. They say they were unable to jump it.

I stopped on the way home, only had time to try it once- everything seemed ok, including the glow cycle, but when I went to hit the starter everything went black and stayed that way. Lights worked fine when I tried them but no dash lights, accessories or radio on any switch position.

Obviously, the first thing I'll do tomorrow is test the batteries, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar situation when the batteries were not the culprit. No prior histories of this, and no major electrical problems other than the usual squirrely 6.5 ground situations (blinkers make the tach needle bounce, that sort of thing).

Any ideas?

[Turbine Doc]

Lance batt terminals must be meticiously maintained especially were left/rt batt crossover cable sandwiches together, another tough one is gnd strap from frame to engine as it is hidden & hard to see; for extra assurance I added a double ring end #4 batt cable to go from back of alt to frame.

search for Doc Lee batt post mods for better batt post attachment also if batts found bad replace both from same mfg lot date, a weak one will kill a good one replace in pairs

[Perry]

I agree on checking the connection where the left and right battery terminals connect on the passenger side battery positive terminal. Last year, I had the same problem and when I took the cable off of the passenger side battery, it was completely corroded at the terminal, which you couldn't see without removing the cable as it was hidden under the plastic sheathing. I cleaned the cable ends and replaced the terminal bolt.

I finally replaced both batteries recently as they were 5+ years old, and after one year those terminals were all corroded again.

Perry

[tom.mcinerney]

The 'Dr Lee'terms {substitute studs for the oem bolts) do help. Smearing any grease (preferably synthetic, as it'll resist water, and water-based acid) all over the terms before and after assembly will vastly retard progression of corrosion.

On the '94 a lot of TDP members found the positive battery cable attachment to starter stud had loosened, this yields symptoms you complain of. If find nut loose, note if the heat on the stud caused the plastic/bakelite mounting (starter cover) to decay--the stud wobbles, can't properly snug nut.

[LanceW]

Thanks for the replies- the truck's been sitting a lot lately, and I give the terminals the once-over but haven't really checked them out well in a while.

Just turned 200k, and other than this it's been running great- thanks again.

[LanceW]

FYI- it turned out that 200,000 miles had been exactly enough vibration to wear thru the insulation on the power feed wire to the starter, and it was shorting to the bell housing.

Like I said, it acted like dead batts, but the lights still worked. Hope this helps someone else.

[tom.mcinerney]

The Batt-Starter cable '95 has wire loom cover, and a support bolted to the frame member.