6.5 Engine Oil Cooling Lines

[More Power]

The Last
6.5 Engine Oil Cooling Lines
You'll Ever Need

http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/features/lastcoolinglines.htm

This unfinished article is slated to be included with the July article updates, but here's your opportunity to offer any additional suggestions or opinions.

MP

[CareyWeber]

I wish I would have seen that two months ago I might not have bought Greg's lines. ;)

Could the 6.5's oil cooler lines be done while on the truck? The reason I ask is mine were very hard to get out without bending them which would make them hard to line up again.

I will be fixing my power steering that way though.

Thank again Morepower for all the great tech stuff over the years. :D :D

Carey

[DickWells]

Hi Jim: Talk about timely! I just installed the Lub Specialist lines on my Suburban today. Sure wish that I had remembered the article by Dr. Lee.
Well, maybe not. The LLC lines are really quite nice.
Here's the rub. The things are a bear to install in a Sub with a big SpeerCo IC, and FWD.
For those who are going with these lines, and are apt to do things the hard way, like me, here are a few observations.
* The OEM aluminum lines need to be cut off up front to clear the intercooler, while you remove them.
* The new brass 90 degree L's at the block above the oil filter have to be turned beyond horizontal facing front quite a bit in order to clear each other and for the lower one to clear the flange on the ninety degree filter adapter.
*The adapter has to come out of course.
* You'll need every open end and crowfoot wrench you can get your hands on in order to tighten the flare nuts to the el's at the block. Plus, a lot of patience.
*I re-used the main part of the bracket at the motor mount, plus the two rubber backed strain reliefs that came with the new lines. I threw away the "T" clamp bolt from the OEM, and replaced it with a 1/4-20 bolt through the strain reliefs. A tight reach above the front diff., but about the easiest part of the whole installation, nevertheless.
*I had to loosen up that 1/4" bolt, and pull some of each hose back to make a sag downward to avoid rubbing against the motor mount. I'll put on some ribbed plastic shielding around that area, just in case.
*By cutting out some more of the heavy plastic above and around the IC behind the left bumper opening, I was able to bring the lines out through to the left of the IC, and curl them up and around behind the bumper to meet the oil cooler. (the lines are MUCH longer than OEM)
*There is a couple of feet of ribbed plastic around each new hose, as received. I used this through the area around the IC, and out to just behind the bumper. Put more shielding on where it contacts the bumper, too.
The ends of the flanged fittings at the oil cooler are steel. They would NOT fit inside the cooler, as received. Didn't miss by much, but I had to file a bevel at the mouth of each pipe, and file off a couple of thousandths to get them to where the nuts would push them up into the cooler. I'll bet they're still tight enough to hold without the "O" rings, but I wouldn't take the chance. Better to check them for fit before you install the hoses to the block. That way, you won't have to seal the ends with wads of paper towel, and rinse everything off with carb cleaner.
Do like I say, not like I do!
* I changed the large "O" ring on the filter adapter. There's a new number for it, now. It's PN 12559095, and costs almost five bucks! Worth it, if you can keep that adapter from leaking
There it is, in a long-winded nut shell. I sure hope it saves someone some heart ache and time. Of course, someone else could route those long hoses in an entirely different location, but this is my two cents.
Dick Wells

[dstoops]

One of my oil cooler lines had started to seep at the crimp on the cooler end. I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and then installed a high quality hose clamp over the crimp and really torqued it! Oil seeped from around the crimp which indicated that I had indeed tightened it. So far I have run 5000 miles. I checked it today...."dry as a bone"!!
Dean

[LanduytG]

They would NOT fit inside the cooler, as received. Didn't miss by much, but I had to file a bevel at the mouth of each pipe, and file off a couple of thousandths to get them to where the nuts would push them up into the cooler.

This affects a very small percentage. Not sure if its the cooler or the fitting thats the problem.

More Power
What should be used for a hose clamp are the type that have the inner band that help clamp tighen evenly around the hose.

One problem with using the crimp you cut off for a slive is it does not make contact all the way around the hose.

I do like the safety wire idea if this is the type of repair you want.

Greg

[TJ]

I installed Lube Specialist cooler lines back in April. They are superior lines to anything factory. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time playing with the old factory lines. $150 versus $13,500 for a new engine and turbo assembly when the stock lines fail. Ask me and my ol' man: we know. Not a tough decision, IMO.

[CareyWeber]

I'll say one thing for Greg's lines that I installed.

My driveway is not as slippery. :D :D :D :D

Carey

[joed]

I also installed a set of Greg's lines on my 98, I agree that the combination of the larger size hoses with the intercooler makes it quite a chore!

One thing I found is that the old shrink wrap from the old oil cooler lines will fit over the hoses to extend the area of coverage to help prevent rubbing farther back...

Joe.

[slagona]

Jim,

Another warning for those doing the repair off of the truck. They must retain the proper orientation of the aluminum tubes if they are going to tighten up the hose clamps off the truck. Otherwise it will require losening the clamps, twisting the hose to the proper orientation, and then re-tightening the clamps.

As a side note, I had my lines repaired by an AC/Delco Heating cooling shop. They used A/C hose with teflon lining - welded on Aluminum Crimps which had METAL crimping sleves. I've put on 50K miles and still dry..... But the cost was about $80. These shops are used to welding aluminum tubes and have everything in stock.....

[Peter J. Bierman]

I'd like to ad a warning to this very good repair method.
In the article you mention this method might work for power steering line repairs too.
I do not know for sure at what pressures the PSS is working but it's a real hydraulic system with real hydraulic pressures. (The crimp fittings are steel on these lines.) :rolleyes:
I have seen people trying to get home with hose clamps on the PSS but it will never hold!
A slipped off PS hose will result in a sudden loss off powersteering and more important on these trucks loss off the brakes! :eek:
For PSS hoses I recomment oem lines or repair by a hydraulic shop with propper sized steel crimp fittings.

Peter

[More Power]

Thanks Peter,

That's part of why I wanted to run the story by all you guys before going live with it.

Too bad I don't have a hydraulics test bench to test a series of these types of repairs (to destruction) to determine what sort of pressures both a clamped repair and the factory crimp connector will take before it fails.

The engine oil pressure is limited by a pressure relief valve (to I think 80 psi). Also, I had heard from owners who blocked off the cooling line ports to avoid being stranded due to failed lines ( a good test of the relief valve).

MP

[DickWells]

Greg: Hope you didn't take my comments on fit and installation problems personally. I'm VERY happy with your lines. I'd bet that I could be happy with a DIY repair of the OEM's, too, except for one thing. I would be one of those who had to have the aluminum welded up at the motor mount/clamp area. Mine were seriousely cut into! All in all, I think the total replacement gives me the most piece of mind. I think I could have lost my oil in just about any one of the lower 48, at any time over the last couple of years! I do love those screw-in fittings.
The good ol DP keeps right on proving it. All that experience out there is right at our finger tips. It's like Lt. Camley always said. "For any situation, the solution that works is the right solution." God rest his soul, and bless you all.
Dick Wells

[LanduytG]

Dick
Never thought a thing about it. When you have and IC things are going to be tight.

Greg

[332bill]

I already have purchased Greg's lines but have not yet installed them. I have not been looking forward to the installation. I think I'll try and do this repair with the lines still on the truck. It looks like a time and money saver. If all goes well, I'll have a set of NIB oil lines for sale.

Bill

[Subzilla]

More Power,
I assume this procedure would also apply to the 6.2's?? If so, you should title the article with "6.2/6.5". My 5-year-old lines are also weeping again (as will be my wallet if I buy new ones). Thanks.

[rjwest]

Question: I thought there was 2 problems with the oil cooler lines:
1. Crimps
2. slip on fittings at 90 degree elbow on block.

If above is true, Isn't a complete set of new lines with new screw on fittings the best fix????

I have 100k miles now with no leaks at block, and just minor seep in 1 line at crimp. Wondering
when and what to replace.

[DickWells]

Good grief Gaylord! "piece of mind" ??? Well, that proves it. I can type maybe 25-30 words per minute, and I can type faster than I can think! Sorry fellas.
Of course I meant peace of mind. Sometimes, when I go back and read what I've written, it scares me. Is this what some of the guys around here pronounce as "oldtimer's desease"?
I just read the latest messages on this subject, and yes, I do believe that getting rid of those "E" clips, and metal to metal brackets is worth the time and money.
I'll get off and leave y'all alone now.
Thanks for bearing with me.
Dick

[99gmccrew]

Dstoops, what kind of clamps did you use to get them that tight? The ones I use have been stripping.

[More Power]

Subzilla,

Sure, this repair should work for the 6.2 lines, but I don't think the problem is as big as it is for the 6.5 crowd. The 6.2 lines I had did not leak in over nine years and 230K miles, whereas the 6.5's we've had did leak in a lot less time and mileage.

MP

[RT]

I just installed the Lube Specialist lines on my truck and it when without a hitch. Like others the fit was a little tight at the oil cooler but it went together. I also reused the plastic corrugated sleeving from the stock lines to completely cover the new lines. Repairing the stock lines was an option but bolting in new ones is certainly quicker. Thanks for a great product Greg/Lube Specialist! RT

[rjwest]

Napa has a clamp that has a " looks like washers" several of them": under the nut. very strong

I cut my oil line to install a temp probe.

Also used them on my remote filters. Don't leak.

Do need to re torque several times untill seated..

May try Aircraft grade clamps if your close to an airport..

[jlog]

If you were performing this fix and happened to cut into the oil line with the cut-off wheel is the oil line long enough to just cut an inch off the end
John

[More Power]

Regarding nicking the line, as long as you don't cut through the internal reinforcement of the hose, it would probably work without needing to shorten the hose. But, if you work slowly, it can be done without cutting the hose. One method would be to cut "almost" all the way through, then pry the clamp apart using a screwdriver in the cutline. I've done this, you just need to cut ~99% of the way through.

The clamps with what looks like stacked washers are "constant tension" devices, that help maintain clamping load during thermal cycles and compressing components.

This same concept could be applied to the four screws holding the FSD onto either a remote cooler or the pump. I've thought about using a small but stiff coil spring under the FSD screws, that would help maintain clamping pressure over time.

MP

[Dimsdale]

I concur with rjwest above: for me, the slip on fittings at the block were giving me fits. Before I got Greg's lines, I had my shop replace the oil lines. The slip on fittings leaked (well, one of them anyway). They replaced the offending line AND the block fitting. It STILL leaked!! And fairly profusely, I might add, right onto the crossover pipe, particularly when going uphill. A nasty mess.

Greg's lines were the only cure. Even my shop said it was the only workable solution.

Now I just have to slather the oil filter 90 degree adapter with RTV to stop that seepage, and my truck may actually stop smelling like a burning oil barge!

Thank you, Greg!

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by Dimsdale:
I concur with rjwest above: for me, the slip on fittings at the block were giving me fits. Before I got Greg's lines, I had my shop replace the oil lines. The slip on fittings leaked (well, one of them anyway). They replaced the offending line AND the block fitting. It STILL leaked!! And fairly profusely, I might add, right onto the crossover pipe, particularly when going uphill. A nasty mess.

Greg's lines were the only cure. Even my shop said it was the only workable solution.

Now I just have to slather the oil filter 90 degree adapter with RTV to stop that seepage, and my truck may actually stop smelling like a burning oil barge!

Thank you, Greg! I followed Greg's advice and replaced the O-rings in the adapter and used RTV on them. I also used some blue locktite on the threads of the bolt, and now the leaks are all gone.

ps don't let the parts guy tell you that two of the O-rings are the same size they are not!!! :mad: Good thing my the guy next door was there to give me a ride.

Carey

[Kennedy]

The clamps that I use in my fuel filter kits would be VERY well suited for this application. They are constant torque type with bellville washers so they will remain tight as the hose compresses. There is an inner band that is not "toothed" to protect the underlying hose.


I still like the hose shop crimp idea, and will be quick to point out that the repair was performed entirely by the hose shop in my case. This means the cutting operation which was the most labor intensive, was on the clock. They also replaced the hose with a very rugged cloth braided hose. If one were to remove the hoses, "clock" everything correctly with index marks and obtain the proper hose, I'm sure a good hose shop would place the crimp sleeves for you for a very reasonable price.


Clamps aren't shown well here, but you get the idea. They are relatively expensive as clamps go, but work extremely well.


http://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=241