Trans cooler

[TJ]

I am looking at a Tru-Cool transmission cooler. Where are you guys mounting your coolers at?

Thanks,
TJ

[Dan Nicholas]

Hi TJ,

I removed the OEM trans cooler and replaced it with a Tru-Cool 24000 gvw (11" x 11" approx.) I mounted the Tru-Cool where the old one was. It stuck 1 1/2" out from the condenser so I had to notch the grill nearest the headlights. I believe you could avoid notching the grill if you centered the cooler and moved it closer to the condenser by fabricating brackets and trans lines. I wanted 1 1/2" behind the new cooler for better heat displacement and future plans of putting a 2nd cooler in. In addition, at this point, I wanted to use the existing trans lines and mounting so there was less flexiblity in relocation. I also needed to leave as much horizontal room as I could for a larger motor oil cooler. I was determined to put the biggest trans cooler I could reasonably fit and notching the grill wasn't a big deal to me. Turned out pretty good IMHO. As an fyi, I used the old trans line connectors, but new retaining pins. Eventually, I'll cut the line and route the fluid through an external filter. I have this mounted underneath the front skid plate, but haven't got around to the lines yet.

So far, I haven't seen temps in excess of 200 degrees (measuring temp from trans pan). Before the new cooler, I'd see temps above 200. The large diameter cooler hasn't affected engine temps that I've noticed.

[Dan Nicholas]

TJ,

Just a little more detail. 90% of the time, my trans temps are now 180-190 degrees with a 3000 lb slide-in camper. I also occasionally pull my jeep with the camper. The trans temps still stay in that range. Occationally a little higher. As I mentioned before, prior to the new cooler, I'd regularly see temps in excess of 200 degrees with just the camper. Measuring temp from the pan. Once I do the lines, I may move the sensor to radiator trans cooler intake.

If you live in a cooler climate it's been recommended you do not bypass the radiator trans cooler since it warms the trans fluid during winter startup. Radiator temps rise quicker and warm the trans fluid shortly after startup. Some would argue that bypassing is not a big deal (running synthetic fluid etc). I chose to not to bypass since I live in New England and didn't feel I have much to gain by bypassing the radiator anyway. If I still had high trans temps I didn't feel bypassing the radiator would make "the difference". A personal conservative call, but I decided to install a 2nd cooler rather than bypass just to be on the safe side.

Hope this helps. ttyl Dan

[TJ]

Hi Dan,
Thank you for the reply. Lets recap...you replaced your stock cooler with a larger one. In a sense, you didn't add an additional cooler. Correct?

What was the part number of the Tru-Cool cooler that you were able to hook the stock lines to?

Thanks,
TJ

[Dan Nicholas]

Hi TJ,

I removed the stock one and replaced it with a larger trans cooler. I left room behind the new cooler to install a 2nd one (same part no.) in the future.

The cooler I used is the H7B or TRU H7B. Here's the link I ordered it from:

http://www.carshopinc.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=tru+h7b&osCsid=f7d992843693e2a57ffa38842de3776b

Car Shop -> part no. TRU H7B -> $77.95

[damork]

I used a Tru Cool H7B which has 48 plates, 1/2 inch threaded ports and rated at 29,200 BTU. They also offer a model ILPD4590 with 48 plates rated at 24,000 BTU.

Here is a link to their catalog (made by Long Mfg - same as the coolers that come on our trucks):

http://www.longmfg.com/web/longwebframework.nsf/c75999cbafe6192785256bcf0077ad28/df6d58e066dcafcc05256c650003652a/$FILE/LNG013_Cat_Final.pdf

I bought my H7B for $65 + shipping from this location:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=MDITP&Category_Code=TCCE

I added brass adapters to connect to hoses and never had to make any cuts to my grill but it fits nice and snug. If I recall correctly, I fashioned two steel straps for the lower mounts and the upper mounts were matches to the oem mounts.

This cooler could be an alternative to the oem engine cooler as well with the 1/2" ports.

Trans pan temps have never been over 180 in over two years. Pan is oem with factory drain and I added a welded in temp sensor port.

[TJ]

Hi Damork,
So, you used this cooler as a replacement as well? Or, did you do this in addition?

Thanks for the info! Sounds like the Tru Cool H7B is the way too go.

TJ

[TurboDiverArt]

I installed a B&M stacked plate, sounds similar to the TruCool. It's an 11x11 stacked-plate. I installed it behind the radiator between the radiator and fan. Towing, the trans temps will jump up when standing on it but quickly cools down again. I wanted to maximize the cooling. If I had to do it again, I would reverse them, new 11x11 in front of the condenser and the stock one relocated behind the radiator where the factory optioned additional cooler goes.

Art.

[DA BIG ONE]

Any of you use the B&M (SUPERCOOLER)stacked plate unit with the thermostat and fan in place of the factory aux tranny cooler?

[Turbine Doc]

I don't use B&Ms, but I have Derailes version rated to 25K towload for cooling, I have it in addition to the factory cooler, mounted under the bed on a cross bracket, thermostat controlled to come on at 170F, combined with deep pan, and extra fluid in pan, plumbing for cooler and free flow across fins fan only comes on when hauling butt on a hot day or towing.

Pan temp I'm running 170 or less running empty, 180-190 if haulin butt or towing heavy 19K combined truck & load

[damork]

TJ,

Yes - I replaced the OEM with the TruCool unit.

I haven't looked at a B&M real close, but others have told me they are simply the TruCool or all made by Long Mfg. My OEM unit and the TruCool were both stamped Long Mfg, and the B&M looks identical but probably costs more.

[TJ]

Thanks guys! Here's what I'm thinking...How about if I install the Tru-Cool LPD4739 which is rated to 40,000lbs and 45,000 BTU's underneath the truck? It does not have a fan. But, at 2 feet long, should catch enough air to cool tranny fluid down better than most. It does have a thermo-bypass valve, or something as they call it, to stop the fluid from entering before it reaches operating temperature. How are you guys mounting them underneath?

Thanks,
TJ

[DA BIG ONE]

Can the fittings from the factory aux tranny cooler (the one up front and on the passanger side)be used in 1/2 NPT aftermarket coolers?

[Dan Nicholas]

DA BIG ONE,

Yes, Tru Cool H7B has 1/2" NPT female. I used the OEM Trans cooler fittings when I switched it over. Worked perfectly.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Dan Nicholas:
DA BIG ONE,

Yes, Tru Cool H7B has 1/2" NPT female. I used the OEM Trans cooler fittings when I switched it over. Worked perfectly. Great, & thanks for the response!

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
Any of you use the B&M (SUPERCOOLER)stacked plate unit with the thermostat and fan in place of the factory aux tranny cooler? FYI. I just got my B&M hi-tek cooler last night. I bought the bundled unit because I need to race next weekend and I won't have enough time to buy and mount a separate fan to the cooler (as well as rebuild the blown transmission) so I spent the extra money for a kit.

The non-fan super coolers are true-stacked plate units like the stock one, at least the 11x11 biggest one they sell (I have it on my truck). The hi-tek one with the fan and thermostat (at least the biggest one, 9x13) is a stacked plate but it's like the radiator. Flat tubes with fins between them.

I don't know which is more efficient but thought I would share.

Art.

[HowieE]

Hi TJ

I am using a fan driven cooler mounted under the driver's side rear seat and piped into the outlet line of the trans. This cooler is thermostaticaly set at 165 degrees. I have bybassed the cooler lines from the radiator, Above 165, and send the precooled oil to the OEM
cooler. This results in a trans that runs at 150, in the summer, as long as the convertor is locked. Winter it does get a little cool and runs at 105, I have not yet figured out how to cover the OEM cooler in the winter without removing the grill and just have not done it.

If the convertor is unlocked and pulling the trailer it will run up to 185. Its been this way for 4 years and close to 90,000 miles probibly 65,000 towing.