Inputs on phazer timing install, PLEASE!

[DamienJ]

I have a 1992 6.5 and am about to take on the project of installing a new fuel injection pump and timing gears. I would REALLY appreciate any and all advise and inputs from tricks to how to's, I mean anything that you guys have to offer. I really want this install to go as easy as possible. I don't have the super cool tools that all those fancy diesel shops have so any homemad tools that you have invented to do the job( how you did the job) would help.
Thanks a million folks.
Happy Labor Day

[patrick m.]

two of the bolts on the ip are going to be tough to get to without the proper wrench,.............or a properly modified wrench.
if you have acess to a welder, cut the boxed end of a 15mm wrench at a 33 degree angle, leaving the cut end approx 1.5 inches long. flip the cut end over and weld it back on, you will have a wrench with a slight offset on the boxed end to allow you to get those lower nuts with ease ;)
the rest is hand tools, standard pullers, and a few unpleasent words :D

[DamienJ]

Could I use a crow's foot socket?

[patrick m.]

i doubt it. its tight getting to those lower 2 nuts. they may aslo be 12 point nuts cant remember exactly.

[ucdavis]

IP nuts are 15mm 12 point flange nuts. Std combo will work on upper one no sweat; shorty combo wrenches will work on lower nuts, but getting snug torque on 'em requires a few taps on a punch (I used another combo wrench w/open end down into shorty-wrench open end up/box end on 12pt nut. Mine came off easy; guess the last dude (it was the factory) didn't tighten them properly. Likely some union rule or something to prevent employee injury.
Tape the IP gasket to the housing w/small piece of scotch tape or it will wander & rip when maneuvering IP back onto studs.
Loosen inj. lines @ all injectors for ease of maneuvering IP into place (I didn't & highly unrecommend not doing it).
Others can tell ya about the front end stuff first hand.

[damork]

DamienJ
I found an "S" shaped 14mm/15mm Snap On with box ends that seems to work well for me. It was a bit pricey, but reaches those lower nuts quite well.

[britannic]

YMMV, but the Craftsman switchable combo gear wrench works well with as little as 5 degrees of movement - of course it depends on how obstructive your accessories are etc.

On my mechanical pump with the throttle cable support and other clobber I can get to all 3. The driver's side nut is the hardest, but the wrench really helps, even though it only clicks the ratchet twice at a time.

[Kennedy]

Originally posted by ucdavis:
IP nuts are 15mm 12 point flange nuts. Std combo will work on upper one no sweat; shorty combo wrenches will work on lower nuts, but getting snug torque on 'em requires a few taps on a punch (I used another combo wrench w/open end down into shorty-wrench open end up/box end on 12pt nut. Mine came off easy; guess the last dude (it was the factory) didn't tighten them properly. Likely some union rule or something to prevent employee injury.
Tape the IP gasket to the housing w/small piece of scotch tape or it will wander & rip when maneuvering IP back onto studs.
Loosen inj. lines @ all injectors for ease of maneuvering IP into place (I didn't & highly unrecommend not doing it).
Others can tell ya about the front end stuff first hand. Early ones were 6 pt and not nearly as user friendly. IIRC, the 12pts began with the DS4 pump, and MAYBE even the 1997 HC cooling, but I may be off on that. I seem to recall seein a lot of 6 point nuts on the 1994/5 trucks...

The Snap-On S wrench is my personal favorite
...

[Turbine Doc]

In addition to the Snap On wrench on 97+ cooling mod trucks access is made easier on lower rt mount by removing AC compressor mount bolts, just move compressor no need to undo freon lines.