Clutch plate and pressure plate sources

[CaseyR]

Not doing too well on my glow plug query, hopefully will do better with the one.

Does there seem to be any significant differences in quality between the various sources of pressure plates and clutches? Our small town has NAPA, Shucks, an independent parts place, and the Chevy dealer. Of course there is always ordering off of the Internet. The prices I have seen for the clutch "kit" range from $165 to $300.

Before I open it up, I am assuming my well used 1994 has a solid flywheel as there is something on the drive shaft that I am assuming is a dampner.

Thanks

[moedog]

CENTERFORCE DUAL FRICTION SETUP IS THE REAL DEAL, A BIT PRICEY BUT NEVER DO IT AGAIN. SUMMIT RACING OR JEGS SEEM TO HAVE THE BEST EVERYDAY PRICE WITH MINAMIL SHIPPING AND NO TAXES!YES! BE SURE AND BUY THE SET WITH THROW OUT BEARING, NEW PILOT SHAFT BEARING AND HAVE YOUR FLYWHEEL RESURFACED OR REPLACE IT SO YOU DONT GET ANY CHATTER ON TAKEOFF

[C.K. Piquup]

Centerforce"red"clutch,90%stronger w/o stiff pedal.Got mine through 4wheel parts wholesalers.I own a`92 and a`95 both had dumb-ass,I mean dual mass flywheels.I think you will,too,sorry.

[Old6.2]

Casey, I put a LuK replacement set in my 6.2L three years ago and it is still doing fine. It is made to absorb the diesel's firing pulses via a spring pack at the disc splines. They list two sets; one for the 'dual mass flywheel' you probably have and another if you have the solid flywheel. Check out www.lukclutch.com (http://www.lukclutch.com) for more info.

[Hubert]

Uhhhggg this thing is a money pit! My clutch is not releasing like it should. The master cylinder went out 3-4 months ago. I replaced it and it has been ok. Now its started not releasing again but the pedal feels like it has good steady resistance and it hasn't lost much fluid. It sat for a week while I fixed the pmd and when I started driving it again it acts like the master or slave sucked some air. It still has pretty good resistance in the pedal but is not releasing. Its worse between higher gears. I am thinking something is bent or uneven spring pressure.

What are my options for clutches.? Anything new out there?

What is this { Centerforce"red"clutch,90%stronger w/o stiff pedal.} That is relative. I once had a 1978 that when you stood on the clutch the left side of the body raised up maybe an inch. Not fun in stop and go traffic.

I test drove a Dmax w/ 6speed a while ago and the clutch pedal was softer than my 97 6.5 NV4500. A 6.0 Ford was much softer than my 6.5. What gives here? Not that the clutch is really hard on the 6.5 but is there an aftermarket one with lighter pedal force and has smooth sure launch with durability and holding power.

I don't tow much and usually take off in 2nd gear easy.

I think I read something about replacing the input shaft bearing along with clutch, pressure plate/flywheel, slave cylinder/throwout bearing. Anything else I need to investigate? Most of this stuff was replaced under warranty by dealer at 60,000 miles. Now at ~ 120,000 it may be going again. Is this normal or a lemon alignment job or mating at the factory causing premature failure.

I don't think its how I drive??? I have ~ 320,000 miles on my 5 speed Mitsibishi Mighty Max (that I have worked like mule off and on for 11 years)all orginal. Its a dang shame I have to rely on the Mitsy to drive to the parts store for my 120,000 mile chevy.

[Brandon]

Your clutch broke the center and the springs are hanging up because they are loose. It is a common problem with a RIGID flywheel. I have yet to have a RIGID Clutch last for more than 40000 miles before the center hits the flywheel and breaks. It doesn't matter which brand you buy they will brake the center of the diaphram. I had to go back to the Dual Mass fly wheel and am glad I did. I am just over 62,000 miles since the last clutch was put in. Untill some one comes up with a better design of the Rigid setup Dual Mass is the only one that will last.