View Full Version : Turbo bad, what should I replace it with?
I've been told the turbo on my truck isn't producing boost so I need to replace it and I figure I might as well upgrade. I've replaced the vacuum pump, solenoid and intake pressure sensor, so now I guess it's come down to the turbo. I don't fully understand how it goes bad but the inlet blade doesn't move hardly at all. I was wondering what different options I have and good/bad results of different kinds. Also if I would need to add or change anything else if I put in a other than stock turbo as my truck is very stock. But I would like to upgrade and add on so I'm open for about anything. Thank you in advance for the addvice.
When you say "doesn't hardly move at all, are you saying it doesn't rock around?
I'd check the wastegate diaphragm to see if it holds vacuum. Also see that there is vacuum at the actuator. New vac pump and solenoid do not necessarliy ensure proper vacuum delivery.
Crank the engine, run it to operating temperature.
Shut it down, remove the turbo inlet duct, move the turbo shaft up-down\side-to-side\in-out - compressor wheel and turbine wheel should not touch or rub the respective housings.
Thumb\finger spin test, at operating temperature, should spin down in 1-2 seconds - if all ok, the turbo is more than likely ok.
What JK is saying - the vacuum lines deteriorate with heat\age, check the plastic and the rubber connection fittings for leaks.
Pump should gage ~25" at idle.
Wastegate servo should gage ~15" at idle, under PCM control.
Could also be the soot trap, erroneously called the 'cat'alytic convertor - may need a hard run at hiway speed to burn-off the black soot, opening up the ceramic honeycomb. (It is an oxidizing convertor, as in rapid oxidation)
costs about $100 to freshen a turbo if there is no contact with the wheels.
Where does one get a turbo freshened up? what brand and where would one go to get more power out of replacing their turbo?
Kennedy-
i took off the air inlet tube and wiggled the turbine right there and it didn't have much movement up and down at all and that was when it was cold.
What makes a turbo go bad? Is there a 'normal' life expectancy of turbos?
Is it hard on my motor if I keep driving it with a code 236 because there isn't enough boost? The light goes off and on too would that indicate that maybe it is a bad diaphram that sometimes holds and not other times?
Thank you for all the help, this is my first diesel and I'm still learing a lot about turbos, I really appreciate it.
look up majestic turbo in dallas.
patrick m.
02-14-2005, 13:36
you do not want to run your truck if you have no boost. Back when i was playing with my boost "fooler" i found that when i adjusted it too far, and the computer opened the wastegate boost would drop to near zero. When this happend, EGT temps shot up like a rocket!
You didnt mention if it spins freely or not, the only way your turbo wont make boost (excluding trouble with the wastegate) is if it does not spin freely, or hangs up due to too much side movement.
the easiest upgrade/replacement is the GM-8, you can find them at any price from 200 to 1400.
Did you replace your old turbo with the one I sent you? I'm just wondering because it was didn't hear from you this weekend.
I didn't replace my turbo because it didn't have any more movement than yours did, so I'm hoping it's the wastegate or actuator. I did send you a check though. Now I have a spare in case something happens. Thank you again.
I'm so confused! I don't understand what makes a turbo 'bad'. I not getting enough boost so I get a 236 code. Do turbo's just wear out? it has 134,000 miles. The wastegate and actuator are working fine, new sensor vacuum pump and solenoid. The turbo doesn't leak oil, my truck doesn't smoke or take oil and the turbine as almost no movement. I just wish there was a simpler explanation as to what is going on. Does a turbo just eventually start not producing as much boost? would a boost control solve this problem so I don't have to replace the whole turbo? Thank you
nvmtnlion
02-15-2005, 08:36
MRBarta,
I don't see anywhere that you have mentioned if you have a boost gauge or if you are going by the electronics? Only reason I ask is BOTH my boost sensor and the EGR senson were faulty on my truck and I didn't know it until I had a mechanical boost gauge.
Engine idling - Vac Pump makes vacuum at ~25", gageable at WG Solenoid.
Under PCM control, Solenoid output is ~15", gageable at WG servo.
Engine idling - WG arm\rod should be very difficult to move.
Engine off - WG arm\rod should move freely, with some resistance from WG servo.
Remove vacuum line, WG will move with less resistance.
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