Newbie to 6.5's looking for suggestions

[502_Jimmy]

Hello all. Looking to get an 95-99 Suburban. Looking at the 6.5's. Are there any years that are better or worse to look for?

Anything I should lookout for? Major problem areas? Minor things for seller to lower price. Mileage to lookout for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
John

[ucdavis]

Like all vehicles (except maybe Duramax?) the 6.5s have their ideocyncracies.
The electronic injection is the single major flaw; some folks get 200k, unhindered out of the system, and some get short mileage out of the fuel driver and/or injection pump. For that reason, GM gives us a 120K mile/11 year warranty on the injection pump system, extending to subsequent owners. There are many threads here on stalling, stumbling (ignition "missing"), etc., and a good diagnostic article on the Member's Area page on stalling: http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/tt99-9.htm that you can review for more info. Also an exhaustive discussion under "FSD/PMD- BFD" for those w/lotsa time on their hands to monkey around w/a tech topic.
The other main weakness of the 6.5 is cooling. Cooling components were upgraded in 97, but the cooling system takes annual service (not much, just a radiator & ac condenser cleaning & overall check) or those who use the rig heavily will wish they had attended to their chores.
94/5 models are OBD1 compliant & you can check diagnostic trouble codes easily: http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/trblcode.htm
Later years are OBD2 & you need a scantool to read the codes.
You can check service bulletins on these rigs by going to http://www.e-toolbox.com/ads/
and follow the links (click on the attributes corresponding to your rig: year, maker, model, engine). After clicking on 6.5 engine, choose Service Bulletins & Recalls, then Fuel Sys/Drivability. In PDF format you'll find the Service Bulletins issued on our engine. If there are not many bulletins, you can click on earlier year of same model, & you'll find the earlier service bulletins.
Good hunting!

[Marty Lau]

If I was looking for a Diesel Suburban I'd get either a clean 1993 (if one could be had) with the Mechanical fuel pump. Or 1997 later with upgraded cooling.

[Turbine Doc]

John,
I'd go with a 99-01 2500/3500 it has latest cooling mods on H20, and HD 215 ??? HP program, early models rated @ 185?? HP not sure on specific HP but I think it's rite. I run a 99 PCM in my 98.

[EscaladeDiesel]

Get the newest you can afford, sometimes it seems the 1999's don't sell for that much more than the higher mileage 1997 and 1998 model years. If you want better fuel mileage and not towing a large trailer, look for the RARE 1500 HD and get a the better axle ratio. My 1998 2500 4x4 with the 4.10 rear end, and I am lucky to ever get 16 on the freeway staying under 70 mph, anything over that the mileage takes a HUGE dip (when it runs that is).

[Turbine Doc]

John,
If you can wait another month or so, come Jan. a 2000 becomes another year older by calendar/bluebook should put it pretty close to a 99 bought today, or look for a 2000 now but make the seller aware that in another month and a bit it's value drops, so sell it now for a sure thing with a better price to you; or hope that he can maybe find a buyer for a 4 yr old truck next year.

Another plus for latest model you can afford is that it's another year of GM IP/FSD warranty really handy on these trucks.

If you find a 1500 I can attest it can be made to keep up with the, 2500 & 3500, and can handle 12K trailer/load occasional tow quite effectively but you'll need some mods to better wheels, brakes, springs. If you are going to do a lot of heavy towing better go with the 2500/3500 as it will be set from get go for bigger load, but as said before daily driver economy is generally not as good as lighter 1500 set up, lot of this too is dependent on driving style.

"I'm back for edit I just re-read where you were looking at a burb, what I just wrote for weight cap is based on my truck, a burb is somewhat heavier vehicle so the 2500/3500 might be better route."

If you find one with a L56 emissions engine(S in 8th digit of VIN), pretend to balk at that, as it's "power limited and not really what you are after you say", in actuality it's basically same engine as the L65(F in 8th digit of VIN) in the 2500 & 3500 and can quite easily be modded to L65 config.

Unless of course, you are in a emission police enforced zone, that would not be pleased if you occasionally forget to undo your "off road" modifications when you get back on the street :D :D (this by they way takes less that 20 minutes to reconfigure or so I've heard) :D Deep South isn't one of those locales too concerned with Diesel performance improvements. Good Luck

[502_Jimmy]

Thanks guys. Those replies were a lot of help. I am now officially on the "hunt"

Thanks,
John

[EscaladeDiesel]

More miles than I would be comfortable with, but it sure is cheap to drive till it needs a rebuild.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2443374408&category=6155