View Full Version : Water Pump Going Out?
ANXIOUS-SUBMAN
06-01-2005, 15:02
I'm leaving for a vacation to the east coast on 6/10. Just last night I noticed that my water pump has begun to weep a bite of anti freeze. I haven't had the belt off yet to see how tight the water pump bearing is. Being short on time, I'm torn between changing out the water pump myself or letting the dealer do it. If the bearing is tight do you all think I could leave it until after the trip. I know, I'd really be tempting fate.
PS I've been looking at my shop manuals to prepare myself for the changeout. What is an "anaerobic" sealer?
Thanks
I can't see leaving it now that you know. Make the time to do it or pay the dealer.
Marty Lau
06-01-2005, 17:35
What is an "anaerobic" sealer?
It's a gasket replacment goop that never hardens any good parts store has it. Also if you do the pump and you have OVER 100,000 miles I would change out the time gears and chain with a new set or DSG gears, your 85% of the work there. They are behind the water pump. The the gears and chain run under $150 and the DSG gear set like $350. I would also have the raditor taken to a good shop and have it cleaned while your at it. My local raditor shop did it and fixed a small leak in the corner of the raditor with epoxy for $25 I felt like I robbed a bank leaving with the raditor cleaned and fixed.
ANXIOUS-SUBMAN
06-02-2005, 14:05
Well, I'm gettin' things together for my Saturday project. I bought a concrete mixing tub from Home Depot (about 2'x 3'x 8" deep)to catch all the antifreeze I drain out. I checked NAPA for a price on the water pump. After giving them the year, make, model and engine type they ask if I had the bolt on hub or the spin on hub. Between looking at my truck and my helms manuals I found that I have the spin on hub. I ended up buying the pump and thermostats from APS (Automotive Parts Service, KOI AUTO PARTS)because they had new OEM AC Delco parts. GM Part# for the pump is 88894035. APS# DWA 251-603 Price $182.95 (same from GM PARTS DIRECT with shipping) The thermostats are GM# 12559336 APS# DTH 131-103 Price $16.34 And, they had the sealant for sealing the backing plate. So all I need now is to make a trip to Walmart for some DexCool and I should be good to go.
I knew someone would suggest that I do the timing gears while I'm at it. This is my second engine with less than 50k on the clock. (see my signature)Yes, I always wanted the gears but just can't afford to spend the extra cash right now, especially just before vacation. And besides that, I just finished up my Gear Vendor installation a couple weeks ago. I will share a picture of that when I get some time. (required modifying the cross member)
Wish me luck on the WP change.
Thanks
PS There are several APS stores around the Cincinnati area. My late cousin got all his parts from them when he had an auto repair shop. The receipt shows a web site for them. KOIAUTOPARTS.COM I haven't even looked at their site yet.
When I first did a search for the part # on GMPD the only part # that came up was for the pump with the bolt on hub. After I found out which pump was right for my truck I put that # into GMPD. That pump was shown for many vehicles including 99-02 suburbans but not earlier. The pump pictures on JKs and Heath's web sites show a pump for bolt on hubs. So, I guess GM made a change between 98 and 99.
GM did make a change around the time you stated.
I couldn't tell exactly when though. I've heard removing the screw on clutch can be difficult.
Marty Lau
06-03-2005, 09:04
I would not change the timing set out either with only 50K on the engine. Good luck hope you get it done with least headaches posible. ;)
ANXIOUS-SUBMAN
06-03-2005, 19:55
I desided to start the water pump change out this evening (Fri) I have the new pump mounted to the backing plate and ready to put back into the truck tomorrow(Sat) The Helms manual said that I would have to remove the power steering pump and bracket but I saw no need to. I'm glad I started this tonight. It will make tomorrow a shorter day. And, I'm glad I didn't put it off. There was noticable looseness in the pump bearing.
Both the Helms manual and the Haynes manual talk about a single bolt that comes through the back of the backing plate into the back of the water pump. A picture in the Helms manual illustrates at least five bolts coming through the backing plate. Mine actually had six. This must have been another change GM made in '99.
[ 06-03-2005, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: ANXIOUS SUBMAN ]
When I did mine there were 5 or 6 bolt going thru the back side too, can't recall exact #. I had pre 97 cooling and went to a 97 pump and all the bolts were reused. There are differences in the fan clutch bolt patterns pre 97, 97 to ?, and spin on.
Ken,
ANXIOUS-SUBMAN
06-06-2005, 14:03
I got r dun on Saturday. I found that one of my stats did'nt have the rubber sleave around it like the other one and the new ones I bought. The last one to have it apart would have been the dealer that changed the engine out in 02.
I can see where there is a possibility of getting coolant in the crankcase if you don't get that backing plate sealed properly. Something to think about for someone who has a new rebuild and is finding coolant in their oil.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.