What's the minimum mods to do

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

I've got a 94 3/4 ton that I only plan to keep a couple of years (Dad has a Duramax and is talking motorhome so I'm thinking I'll buy his as I know how he takes care of it).

So, for the next couple of years this truck is going to see:
1. daily driver - 15 minutes to and from work
2. weekend fishing - from 1/2 hour to 3 hours each way in BC mountains couple times a month
3. weekend camping - pulling 5500lb trailer couple times a month
4. 2 week camping trip in same BC mountains
5. couple ice fishing trips when the lakes freeze - pulling a small trailer and two snowmobiles

So far, I've got a PMD and will be getting a relocation kit. Probably just on the intake. Guages are going in (this week I hope) as well as a BD torqueloc (I want some engine braking).

What else is the least I can get by with? I'm thinking of a higher flow water pump and new fan clutch, but I'm loathe to dump a bunch on money into this thing that I can't recover in the end.

[Hubert]

What is the health of the truck. Milage condition etc.

Read up on remote mount FSD. IMHO On top of the intake is not much of an improvement.

Bigger exhaust down pipe etc is usually the first mod. Guages before any other mods.

What have you done for maintenance injectors, glow plugs, serp., fuel filter etc. Might want to save money for maintenance and the little things like lift pump shocks brakes etc that are probably tired. You can spend a bundle on the 6.5 upgrading it and no you won't get your money back. With exhaust and good maintenance it will do what you are asking of it.

[Cowracer]

To me, mods can be broken into 2 groups. Power and Reliability.

Top Reliability Mods (in no particular order)
FSD cooler/relocation
Battery Terminals
Turbomaster to replace vacuum pump
97+ cooling mods

Top Power Mods (In order of "Bang for the buck" by my opinion)
Exhaust
Chip
Boost control
Injectors
Intercooler (great results but pricey)

At the risk of sounding flippant, the minimum mods are zero. Many a 6.5 owner run bone stock and have no problems or worries doing so.

You truck should be up to the task of doing what you listed with no mods at all, WITH the provision that you don't try to run harder/faster than the truck is comfortable.


BUT THE #1 FIRST MOD YOU SHOULD DO IS GAUGES!

Even stock, you can send the EGT into the danger zone.

[charliepeterson]

Guages are a must. Heat is what kills this engine. The next time your under the truck take a look at the turbo down pipe heading for the back of the truck. For some reason every truck looks like this, some worse than others. This pipe is a big restriction the way it was crinkled. Diesels don't need any exhaust back pressure to run.
When I opened up my exhaust I saw a 100* drop in the exhaust temperature. Any heat you shed is good.

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

Hey. I already said guages were going in this week ;)

Booked for Thursday.

Truck has ~380K on it so around 240,000 miles. RUns good but does heat up a bit climbing hills. The torqueloc may fix that (or so I'm told) by not letting the tranny heat up so much. If not, I'll do the cooling mod.

Besides the high miles, the truck is in decent shape. Only glitch it's given me is the connectors near the firewall work themselves loose and light up the dash like a Christmas tree.

New shocks all around and new front pads. The rotors are in good shape as are the rear brakes. Oh, and new ball joints. Pitman arm will need doing soon.

I've learned to tighten the battery cables once a month or so. Learned that one the hard way ;)

So, if I do just the crossover pipe and the downpipe, is that enough to make a difference? Maybe with a see through muffler?

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
My .02 .......
(1) I would open up the exhuast. The Crossover pipe isn't that big of a deal. The main thing is the down pipe and the rest of the system. Go as big and open as you can afford. Just a good down pipe and opening up the stock system will make a big difference.
(2) Open up the air intake system. This can be done almost for free, depending on what you do for an air filter. I use a UNI foam filter. Maybe look into upgradeing to a newer model round filter system.
(3) Spend the extra money and move the FSD as far away from heat as possible.
(4) REALLY look at getting some new injectors. If the truck has never had them then it's due.
(5) After the guages install, then you can determine if the cooling mods are needed. My truck never runs hotter than 195, even pulling big loads. ALLOT can be done just by taking out the radiator and presure washing it. I was amazed at the amount of "stuff" that came out of mine and I use a bug screen in the summer.

I think I would agree that from what you said the truck should do what you want it to as long as you don't want to go drag racing! :D
L8r
Conley

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

Originally posted by Dvldog 8793:
Howdy
My .02 .......
(1) I would open up the exhuast. The Crossover pipe isn't that big of a deal. The main thing is the down pipe and the rest of the system. Go as big and open as you can afford. Just a good down pipe and opening up the stock system will make a big difference.
On the exhaust, how much noise do these things make without a muffler?

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
Length of truck and type of truck have something to do with how loud they will be. My truck is LONG and has extra insulation in the floor. It isn't loud in the cab at all and sounds "really cool! MAN" from a local teenagers point of view.
I would go with no muffler and then if it seems to loud you can add one easy enough.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[HowieE]

I agree with the reliability modes and Charlie

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

Originally posted by HowieE:

If you are really in the hills a lot I might move the Torq Loc up in the list. You would be surprised hoe fast the tran temperature goes up either going up or down the hills while the converter is unlocked. I'm moving the torqloc up the list more because I want more engine braking comeing down hills, especially logging roads where I go to fish. I want to rely less on the brakes. I know I would need an engine brake to make a real difference, but I think this is more important to me then the related cooling (which is important as well). So this and the guages are going in tomorrow.

[bbudus]

I have 3" from down pipe all the way back, and if you can do it, dump that cat also. My wife thought it was a little to loud so i put in a 18" Glasspak, more flow than a muffler but took some of the cackle out of it. I think it is at the perfect db level. I hunt so I didn't want everything in the county to know i was coming. Wify says "I told you so". I hate it when shes right. ;)

Bbudus

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

So, besides the guages, I just had the muffler pulled off and replaced. I can still see 1200 on the pyrometer when climbing a local hill at 70 mph (110 kph) empty. Is this too high? I'm not keen on putting $850 into an exhaust if I can avoid it, but I'm less keen on replacing a turbo/engine.

BTW, the pyro sensor was installed just down from the header on the drivers side in the crossover pipe. Is this a normal place to put it? And what would be a "too high" reading there?

[GMC Hauler]

The place you have the probe is the same time i have mine. I run 1150 max, some run 1200. it's your choice on that, but somewhere in that area seems to be the general consensus.

I don't know any exhaust that would cost $850, except if it were stainless steel. I got Jardine's exhaust when it was $300. You also need to raise your boost pressure. Higher boost has a cooling effect. Search the board for boost fooler. You can make your own, or buy one from Kennedy. Or you can go with a mechanical boost controller. Making your own boost fooler is the cheapest way to go.

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

The $850 is Cdn and was a quote from a local show (who had all the peices). Lifetime guarantee stuff including a high flow muffler.

Doubt I would go that way but even the ebay stuff gets up there once it's shipped into Canada.

I'll look at the boost fooler, but I'd be concerned with too much boost on theis old motor. It's got ~380K or ~240,000 miles.

[CoachWagner]

Here is my 2 cents (1.5 US)

I have a 95 1500 ext cab long bed and my use is much like yours.

The first thing I did was down pipe, 3 inch exhaust and boost fooler. I should have done the gauges first but that was before I discovered this site.

I had a FSD failure and changed it, I did not move it and it has been a year and a half now. If it fails again I will probably move it. I got gauges and discovered I had low boost, a small crack in boost line to the turbo.

The truck came with a K&N filter but cleaning was neglected so I make sure to clean it well.

I changed to the 97 H20 pump and found a large difference in prices so shop around. I got mine from Bumper to Bumper. I did not change to dual thermostats but put in the Robert Shaw 180. This may not be the best but was a good ecnomical option and really helped with cooling. I did not have any problems in the winter either.

I am going to get Kennedys fan and clutch kit to help on the climbs with a load on (truck camper)but the water pump and thermostat made a big difference.

I am scared to chip it because I want reliablility. 50 g's for a new truck is not within this teachers budget.

I am also going to look into the torqlock but I do have a B&M shift improver that firmed up the shift points. Not a big deal but it was only $40 bucks and a half hour install.

Also for heat spend the time cleaning the rad by taking the grill off and really gettin in there. What a pile of crap builds up in there!

I also run synthetic year round. Found more oil leaks that way but got those fixed up.

If you are looking for a boost fooler check this Canadian site http://www.nadp.ca so you wont have to pay duty from the US.

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

Originally posted by CoachWagner:
Here is my 2 cents (1.5 US)
I changed to the 97 H20 pump and found a large difference in prices so shop around. I got mine from Bumper to Bumper. I did not change to dual thermostats but put in the Robert Shaw 180. This may not be the best but was a good ecnomical option and really helped with cooling. I did not have any problems in the winter either.

Is this a simple swap? Or do you have to do modifications to fit the pump? I'm thinking I want to get my rad cleaned before the summer heat and I should do the pump while the rad is out.

And what (approx) did you pay for the boost fooler?

[BUZZ]

The 97 and p HO pump is a direct fit bolt on.
Buzz

[20050627|3|008327|000043|65.183.99.20]

$200 Cdn for the boost fooler? Is this correct?

[CoachWagner]

I paid about $100.

I also just put in Kennedy's special calibrated clutch and 9 blade fan. Worked awsome hauling my camper. It never went over 100 C and stayed at about 80 - 85 C. Well worth the investment if you haul.

[CareyWeber]

Everyone has given some good advice, but I don't see a couple of mods that I think are very important.

Fuel filter install a good filter prelift pump it does a couple of things: prtects the lift pump; its the best place to remove water from the fuel; it also hellps keep your stock filter clean.

By-pass oil filter keeps the oil/engine clean and prolongs the life of the engine.

Carey