IP replacement

[jbyers]

OK. My IP needs to be replaced. Is this a job I can do? Can you get a dealer to time it after I replace the pump? Can I get the timing close enough to even get it to the dealer?

[DChristie]

Welcome to The diesel Page! smile.gif

Yes, you can do it yourself, if you have the time and the tools. And if you are comfortable with turning wrench's, it is a continuation of your education.

R/R of an IP is involved but it can be done in the drive-way or garage. The timing issues... When I did mine, I had to take it to a dealer only because I don't have the scope. get the timing gears or chain back where you started at and it should run, then adjustments can be made. My dealer charged me 60.00$ to time it after I drove it in.

If cranking it up first try isn't the norm, then I got reeeaaalllly lucky. :D
wait to start until you hear from a few others on this board, they will have more insight, and suggestions.

DChristie

[DChristie]

Oh! btw, add the info on your rig in the signature, it helps to know what has/hasn't been done in diagnosing troubles.
Saying that, why do you need to replace the IP?

DChristie

[jbyers]

Surging at idle,run away throttle, no start(replaced PMD, now it starts),checked all connections, all wires, new lift pump, new vacum pump, code 35 stored.

[rameye]

Just did mine...yes you can do it yourself!

Wont be quite as easy as changing a carb, however I know my truck alot better now!

saved me about 1000 before it was all over.

[DickWells]

JB: You didn't say if you have the R&R Guide from the Diesel Page, but if you're a newbie, I guess you don't. ALL the DP books are worth the money, and then some. Right now, you don't have time to order them up, but for the future------.
To clear a code, I think this is the simple way. Others may read this and correct me, if I'm wrong. -Fully, depress the throttle.- Fully depress the brake pedal. - Turn on the ignition switch while holding the two pedals fully depressed.- Hold for 45 seconds, minimum.- Turn the key off. -Let off the throttle and brake. When you turn the ignition back on, there should be no codes left. Your code could return, after you start up and run it a while. If it does, then you'll need to do further research. Another way to clear codes is to unhook the batteries for 10 minutes or so, too.
I trust that you bled all the injecters? If I was puting in a new pump, with a PMD, I'd replace the PMD, anyway. If I had a PMD/FSD, I'd remote mount it on a heat sink, regardless. You'll have a lot fewer FSD failures, and the remote unit is a lot easier to change.
All this stuff is right here on the DP, or in Jim's books, and disks. Theres a lot of info for us, to help us with our 6.5s.
Good luck, and have fun.
D.W.

[charliepeterson]

Before starting the R&R pick a point on the pump flange and mark it as well as the timing gear cover. The new pump flange will line up at this mark. Three small bolts behind the oil fill tube. You will have to rotate the engine by HAND. The bottom pump bolt is the most difficult to get at. An "S" type wrench or a modified wrench is really helpful here. Pull the intake off and crack two or three injector lines on each side when your done to bleed the air out.

Patience is key here and the better part of a day. If the new pump lines up with your mark it will start.

[Barry Nave]

Are you sure you need a new pump?
I had the code 35 and it's gone after installing the SOL-D.(pmd,fsd)
A new PMD would also do the same.