starter help

[PHAEG]

starter died so I replaced it with remanufactured unit. Having problems where it seems at though there is a dead spot in the starter or bad connection. I have replace both batteries with Optima reds, cleaned all connections. ran an additional ground cable from the battery right to the starter. Installed a Ford selinod on the firewall to act as a relay to the starter and still having the same problem. My guess is bad starter or bad switch in the steering column? Any ideas. Help

[PHAEG]

could a bad glow plug controller have any effect on the starter? Strange thing was having someone hold the key in the start postion and doing a voltage check and all of the sudden the starter kicked in.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Well, no one else is chiming in so I guess you get what you pay for

[HowieE]

Go back and look at the positive battery connection on the passenger side. Take it apart and look for burned spots on the Red insulator. I had cleaned my terminals when I was having intermittent starting and the next day was dead in the water. Removed the starter only to find it was Good. Relooked at the terminals and cleaned the cable ends again because there was noticeable burned spots and replaced the studs with new ones because they were corroded.
Not paying enough attention to the terminals the first time cost me several hours to remove the starter and the cost of a new solenoid that I spun the connect on while removing the starter.

[BobND]

If the engine stops just so, when the starter solenoid is activated, it will slam a tooth of the starter drive ("Bendix") directly into a flywheel ring gear tooth. Then, a spring gets compressed as the solenoid continues to "pull in", until it closes the contacts activating the starter. At that point, the gears "snap" instantly into mesh.

If you've got weak "start" power, from the ignition switch through the neutral safety switch, to the solenoid, the solenoid won't have the "balls" to pull in hard enough to compress the spring, and continue on the close the contacts.

However, if you have properly installed the helper "Ford" solenoid, and it is being activated, the main starter solenoid should be getting full battery power, and pulling in.

I have had a lot of trouble the last years with starters acting much as your's is. If you have good batterys, and have clean connections, AND the "Ford" solenoid is pulling in, the starter should activate. However, nowadays, most of the replacement solenoids are from India, Taiwan, or China. The solenoids are what has caused me the most trouble, and I'll bet that's your trouble. too!

[PHAEG]

I have elimiated the ignition switch. Also did the batter cable upgrade with 2awg. Pulled the starter and took it to Napa they tested it and said all was good. Took it down the road to the company that rebuilt the starter they took it appart while I waited and found nothing wrong put it back in and same problem. This problem is intermittent. I started it 3 times today and 2 of the three there was no issue. One time heavy click from the solinod and then second time started. The only thing I have noticed is that when this happens the voltage gage indicates a heavy draw during the glow plug cycle and then heavy charge. Could this be a glow plug system problem? Short or bad controller? or Bad battery that charges but cannot handle the load of glow plugs. Temp of the truck or air does not factor into the start no start. Have had this problem since May of this year at all temps

[john8662]

What do your battery terminals looks like?

Have you done the "Dr. Lee" Battery terminal upgrade?

The details are Here (http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/batterm.htm).

[landrea]

Had the same problem with one of my 6.5s, turned out to be my aftermarket pos battery cable end was cracked.Yes we only found this after the dealer replaced the starter, thank god and GM it was a lifetime warranty item so it didn't cost me anythin. :D

[rjwest]

Did you add a wire from the starter solenoid
post up to the battery area, to use as a Key bypass.

When ever I do a starter replace I add the " mech's
starter jumper switch wire, for times when
S- happens.. shore elimates a lot of guessing,

And doing the screw driver bypass start thing...

[garre1tt]

I replaced my starter before moving from Montana to California. It was cold when I did it so was just happy to get it done. When I pushed the positive cable back up it was against the turbo heat shield. 700 miles and some close to overheating hills later I burned through half the cable. Just wanting to get back on the road I tried to just tape it up but It would not carry enough juice to turn the starter.
Check the whole cable to make sure you have no shorts.
Good luck
Michael D

[Randee of the Redwoods]

I agree with the helper circuit. It will help with the process of elimination. In my case, where the key start quit working, I used a switch. One side to battery positive. The other side to the starter solonoid(tiny terminal). That was my starter button. For you, next time the key didn't work, just hit the button. If it fires, then the problem is wiring, not the starter.
Also, this is just a shot in the DARK, but I'll mention it. My particular problem turned out to be a starter kill relay on a non-functioning aftermarket alarm. Since the alarm was disconnected from power but still installed, it no longer monitored the starter relay and just left it open. Removed said relay and key now works fine. Should your truck have such a setup, might be worth checking out.

[Slim shady]

Well at the risk of beating a dead horse , I will throw my 2 cents into this.

First I would put the mechanics ignition switch in (switched bat volts to engagement selenoid, small wire on starter selenoid) either temp or perm depending on your level of expertise.

If/when the problem happens again you can eliminate or condemn the starter. If however you get the starter to work ALL of the time when by passing the ignition switch,(neutral safety switch), caution here. Then it is a matter of elimination, work from the starter back to the ignition switch, eliminating or condemning components as you go backwards.

Most people make diagnosing things much harder than they are by jumping around from item to item when trying to find a problem.

I had the same problem and mine ended up being an ignition switch that the contacts had gone bad (Purchased it at a local chain auto parts store for $84.00). It did it on occasion and there was no real pattern to the failure. I still have that same starter 2 years later.

Slim