95 6.5L turbo cutting out/stalling/ UPDATE

[george_01]

Update: Changed fuel filter, done diagnostic test using paperclip jumper...got 35 & 78...tested fuel OK...checked lift pump...OK... Took to GM garage. It took them 1.5 hrs and cost me $65.00 to do a diagnostic test got the same codes as I did with a paperclip jumper that took me 15 minutes to do. They the GM garrage, as you folks had told me, insisted it needs a new injector pump $2100.00 total. Next step. Take it home and replace FSD ( little black box). I'll let you know what happens. Any more suggestions keep them coming. One week ago I was totally ignorant about diesels. At least today I can have a fairly intelligent conversation about my own anyway. THANKS TO YOU GUYS.

[whatnot]

Did you get an FSD yet? If not you might want to check this deal. He will sell the FSD first and if it doesn't fix the problem then sell the pump without it so you don't end up with 2 new FSDs.
http://accuratediesel.com/

[wild billyb]

if I were you I would relocate the FSD but I still don't know where it is on my truck so I can relocate mine

[cudaaa]

I agree. I bought mine from Bill Heath. He has a good fsd kit with a good warrenty.
Wild billyb it is the black box on the injector pump drivers side. cudaaa

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

DTC 35: Injector Pulse Width Error (Response Time Short); you might want to look at DTC 35 - Help! (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004386#000000) (Click in colored text.)

DTS 78: Wastegate Solenoid Fault; I'd suggest using the search feature at the top of this page. This is a VERY simple system, & EXTREMELY easy to troubleshoot.

Based on your codes, I'm guessing your truck is a 95 or earlier. You might want to click on "my profile" & let us know what year, etc. truck you are talking about. It's handy, because you don't have to remember to do it, it shows up at the bottom of all your posts automatically. smile.gif

Most pumps replaced by GM probably had nothing wrong with them, but had a failed FSD, which bolts to the drivers side of the IP (injection pump). If they gave you a pump free, great, but get moving on a remote mount for that FSD. I

[george_01]

whatnot
Thanks for the tip. I ordered fsd yesterday from
http://accuratediesel.com Will install as soon as it arrives.

[RLAM]

If you do end up buying an fsd, you would be well advised to contast Bill Heath and spend a little more to get a remote. Save you money in the long run.
Good luck and good hunting. :cool:

[george_01]

RLAM.....Being new to this diesel truck stuff I'll will be thrilled if this new PMD takes care of my stalling problem. However as I said "I LOVE MY TRUCK". So if it works I inteened to put some major $$$ into modifications. RLAM your are right it would save me time and THANK YOU for the suggestion. I've checked out Heath and others. Please keep the suggestions comming. I am learning a great deal. THANKS AGAIN

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by george_01:
RLAM.....Being new to this diesel truck stuff I'll will be thrilled if this new PMD takes care of my stalling problem. However as I said "I LOVE MY TRUCK". So if it works I inteened to put some major $$$ into modifications. RLAM your are right it would save me time and THANK YOU for the suggestion. I've checked out Heath and others. Please keep the suggestions comming. I am learning a great deal. THANKS AGAIN george_01,

Read this before you swap the FSD it might help and is much easier and cheaper.

If you do the FSD swap you'll need a intake manifold gasket set.

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006367

Carey

[DickWells]

George 01: I know you may have read all the stuff written in here (the Diesel Page) about FSD, and related problems/cures, but in case you haven't, here's my little bit.
Have you checked ALL your grounds? The one that I found on the Sub., that made the most difference, is the one on the frame, below the starter. There are actually two there. One from the starter,and one from the fire-wall. The bolt, and the internal threads were stripped on mine. I replaced the self -tapping bolt with a 4 inch SS one by drilling through the frame and double nutting the two copper straps to the bolt on the inside, after scraping all the coating off where the bolt went through.
If you put in a new FSD, I agree with just about all the guys that have said it here. Remote mount the thing! Mine is in front of the left battery, mounted on a Kennedy heat sink, which is bolted to the radiator sub frame. Right behind the left headlight. I made my own extended harness. Used number 16 wire. Clipped the old wire at the manifold, and soldered all the connections. Used the old connecter at the new location. Used shrink tubing on all the connections and potted the bundle at each end with JB Weld, so that those stiff soldered joints wouldn't fatigue. Got about 60K miles on the remote FSD, now, but still don't trust it to last. You can find notes in here where guys have put the thing in all kinds of places, some even run the AC on the heat sink inside the cabin! The cooler, the better.
If time is of importance to you, then the Kennedy harness is probably a good bet. Mine is neat, but I'll bet the commercial ones are much better.
Keep at it. You'll learn to love your 6.5. I hope.
Dick Wells