Also Need Advise - Rebuild or New Longblock

[Arlie]

I'm in the same boat as J54 Mark. My engine developed definite bad lower end noise today, about 800 mi after blowing an oil line.
I have the 599 block, mechanical inj. and a while back I was told here "don't get rid of that block".

I could send it across the country to Diesel Depot I guess but local installers don't want anything not local. I don't have time for it.

There is a large rebuilder nearby in Spokane (they build for NAPA etc) I could use, a local installer has good experience with them so is willing - price for rebuild from them is also low - $2800, extra $150 to balance but they don't do 18 to 1. Installer wants $1700 with new injectors, water pump, rad flushed.

I've also seen new Goodwrench longblocks for $3500 plus shipping. I guess these would have the new block which I guess is better yet than the 599?

Right now I don't pull anything heavy so more power isn't a big thing but of course would be nice.

I guess there's no perfect answer. Any advice would be appreciated.

Arlie

[Marty Lau]

Arlie;

Was that you or some one else from your area that talked about checking out that rebuilder a couple months ago. They seem to be a reputable outfit, there website said to call about options on that engine, you might be able to get some goodies on it and your right in their back yard so you could check out their shop. Check with the Spokane BBB also see if they have any complaints? Ask a couple of reputable shops if they have used their rebuilds and what their expience has been. If they have a good reputation I'd go for it, prices are fair and if they stand by their work, what the hay.

[ucdavis]

Sounds like a decent price on the R&R.
Don't know why rebuilder won't do 18:1 (its just a different set of pistons) except perhaps they're leary of warrantying a non-spec engine.
I'd get balance for sure, timing gears, HO oil & H2O pumps, dual Tstats, have the block drilled for proper coolant drain location, magnaflux B4 rebuilding, make sure they don't grind the crank
and I'm sure I'm leaving out a few dozen minor points.
The "new" GM block may or may not be the new AMGeneral casting; you'd have to specify or check the serial #s. Your old block may have some developing weaknesses so the magnaflux is critical.

[Arlie]

Thanks guys. It was me inquiring a couple months ago. I plan to go see the operation. I called a reference for the installer - small business with only three mechanics but has been around a while and very positive feedback. Seems to me sensible to use an installer and rebuilder who are comfortable with each other. The installer hasn't done the cooling upgrade but seems generally knowlegable and liked the idea. Forgot to add, $1700 also includes IP rebuild.

Good idea to check the BBB. Lots of other helpful ideas too.

I'd like input about the 18-1 idea. I noticed Dr Lee didn't do this on his "Right Stuff" engine however it is also not turbo. Wondering what other mods need to go with 18-1, cost, benefits. I know there was a "300 hp 6.5TD Power Project" but I couldn't find it on the site.

Anyone know best place to get cooling upgrade parts and timing gear set?

Arlie

[patrick m.]

check the advertiser's area on this site, several of them have the cooling upgrades in a "package" deal. everything you will need in a kit.
the 18:1 compression ratio is to make the engine able to use the turbo more efficiently, and provide greater durability by reducing cylinder tempurature, and reducing cylinder pressure loads on the entire reciprocating assembly.

[Arlie]

Thanks. Got the gear and coolant upgrade info. May pass on the former for $400. Will do coolant upgrade for $350.

How about this rebuilder in NY.

http://www.65ldiesel.com/page/page/26238.htm

Long block for under $1900!!

Seems impossible but then this is a huge outfit. Few details given about what goes into the engine. Maybe junk. Does have 1 yr unlimited mileage warranty. I emailed for more info.

Anyone heard of them?

Also considering Goodwrench longblock for $3500. Trying to figure out if it would be the enhanced block. Sales guys not sure. Anyone know what casting number to look for?

Arlie

[Marty Lau]

I don't know about the NY outfit but remember shipping from NY will be a bunch and you have a rebuilder in your own back yard. According to their website they have 38 employee's and some have worked for them over 30 years. They list the block castings on the site and say you can order a custom built engine. 7 year 70,000 is pretty good.

[Arlie]

This was also my first inclination but in talking to them, they won't do 18 to 1 and they have zero 6.5 cores right now so if mine turns out to be non-rebuildable (and I wonder cause it sounds terrible) they can't help me. So I'm contemplating wether it's worth the possible hassle and possible charges to find out. I am going to talk to them more.
Arlie

Forgot to add - they consider the 6.5 industrial so warranty is 12 mo/12000 miles.

[ucdavis]

I got a supposedly top notch rebuild from a rebuilder rep'd thru Kragen on a Toyota 3.0 V6 a few years ago. Had the heads off for the second time recently & one of them is milled .020 past the limit and one has a hand-ground keeper on one of the cams. Basically the kinda work you'd never put your own name on or pay good money for if you knew about it.
I wouldn't get a rebuilt again w/out a detailed list of what is getting replaced & what tolerances are used, and even then I'd have to have some idea I wasn't getting lied to. Usually a good local shop is getting about $1000 or so more than large volume rebuilders & you can control the entire parts list.
Of course stuff like timing gears would be on top of that. BTW, the cost of timing gears isn't $400 unless you are reusing the old timing chain/gears which I wouldn't recommend. Subtract the cost of the new chain/gear set (about $150 IIRC) so its more like $250 to upgrade to gears.

[Arlie]

Good point about the timing gears. I'll have to ask if they are willing to do this, what they'd deduct and factor that in to the decision.

I toured the rebuilder facility today. It's, well let's just say more ma and pa style than you'd expect for a place that does the volume they do, not exactly clean but they were friendly, seem to have decent equipment and showed me all the steps in their build process.

One point of uncertainty regarding what's a good block. They choose only blocks that have smaller diameter outer bolts on the main caps. They had one core with casting 12555506. They do not pay attention to casting numbers. I decided to take the extra time to have mine rebuilt if it can be since I believe what I've been told here, that the 599 block casting is worth keeping.

I also visited two installers they recommended. One was a small three mechanic shop, nothing fancy but I liked the owner, he didn't try to BS me about questions I had that he was uncertain about so I'm going to go this route.

I want balancing and I know my dual mass flywheel has broken springs. Wouldn't make sense to have it balanced so I'm thinking of putting in a LUK solid flywheel and sprung clutch. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

Any opinions on the timing gears?

Anyone know about that casting number?

(I know, lots of questions)


Arlie