Crank Pully - Help

[rjwest]

Check the Vibration Dampner 300 miles ago,
Noticed " Thunk Thunk" when running,
Checked dampner again, Bolts Look to be 1/2 to 1 inch off center. Only 108k miles, time to replace??

How hard a job , any special tools nedded??????

[rjschoolcraft]

Yes replace it.
No special tools required.
About a 30 minute job.

1) Remove top half of fan shroud
2) Remove fan and fan-clutch
3) Remove serpentine belt
4) Remove 4 bolts
5) Remove pulley

Reverse steps to install new.

[rjwest]

Made a Mistake, Need to replaCE the Vibration damper.

I think there's a Bolt in the crank,
Do I need a tool for it, and is it a PAIN in the A** job?

[rjschoolcraft]

Remove the large bolt from the end of the crank. I put two "junk" bolts in two of the four bolt holes and use a pry bar to hold the crank from turning. You will need a torsional damper puller to remove the damper.

You stated that:
Originally posted by rjwest:
Bolts Look to be 1/2 to 1 inch off center.This would indicate crank pulley failure, not torsional damper failure. This thread (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006887) has pictures of my failed crank pulley for reference.

[Hye]

Ron got it right. (of course)

My '94 GM book calls the piece you need to replace the pulley, P/N12557345 for a '94. Its held on by four screws. The screws go into the torsional damper, P/N10154688, which is much less likely to fail.

The pulley has a rubber piece that's molded between the inner hub and inner part of the multigroove pulley. Yours is torn. Hence, the screw heads aren't centered between the spokes. I don't think the pulley will come apart and leave you stranded. I threw an old one in a fire, burned out all the rubber and although I didn't try very hard, I still couldn' separate the two pieces.

But, I've read here that a bad pulley can lead to a broken crank, so don't put off repairs too long.

[catmandoo]

and rj just be fore warned they will set you back over 200.00

[rjwest]

Thanks All ,Got the Part at the Chev garage in JAX,
He is also the parts distributer for the area.
( Got my Buick parts there also ).
I opted for the GM Part, figured I don't want to try replacement form Parts house on a " Critacal Part ".
Got lucky on price 100 $ Tax included. With
Bussiness discount, Normally 118.00 pluss tax.
( Do you think the parts dist would sell at a lower price than another chev dealer???)

Now to try to find the TOOL to replace it,
Sent a note to Local Diesel Page member.

????? I checked the Damper 300 mile ago when I changed the oil,looked ok.
Have a noise, so starting checking again,,,,,
Did have a Hard start 1 time since than, I think I
rember a kick back when starting,
can't figure out why it would do that on a diesel.
Anyway, maybe that shifted the damper....
Thanks All, Hope I don't screw up the job.

[Hye]

I wish I'd taken pictures of the part I threw in the fire. It had the part number in the casting. When I looked it up, I found that it's the same for all years. Ron, your picture is P/N 12557345. List price $211.