Joining the Elite - Injector Replacement

[gmenor]

I ordered new stock injectors from the dealership (get it at cost because of all the parts I buy there). Getting the return lines also. To all you all that have replaced the injectors any tips? I have a few questions of my own:
1. What is the part number for the deep well socket for the injectors - can I buy it at Napa?
2. Would removing the turbo make life easier?
3. How hard was it to replace the return lines?
4. Is bleeding the air out of the system same as changing the fuel filter?
5. Would this be a good time to redo the valve cover beading and any idea of the tool number for lifting the valve cover off?
6. Any other tips the ease the pain would be helpful.
7. Ant other tools that may ease the work?

[Dvldog 8793]

howdy
Just did mine, Do a search on injectors and check it out.
Some things that I learned:
-Did not remove turbo. injectors, glow plugs and return lines(new NO-CLIP style, worth their weight in gold ;) ) took me about 6 hrs.
-Get the NO-Clip style return lines, worth their weight in gold!(am I repeating myself?)
- Be patient with the heatshield under the turbo. It will come off. It may require blood loss but it will come off :D
- For me the number 8 was by far the hardest so start with that one.
-I did 1-5 from the bottom inside the wheel well
-I didn't bleed my lines at all and have had no problems.
-I made a socket that worked better than anything I could buy. cheapest 6pnt 30mm deep well socket, cheapest 3/8 drive spark plug socket. Then I cut the deep well as short as I could andstill get it on the injector. Then I cut the 3/8 drive HEX end off the plug socket and tig welded it onto the 30mm. This allowed the use of a wrench and a 3/8 wobble extension. Both proved VERY valuable. Also it made a socket to the exact size that you need.
If you want to borrow this socket I'll let you for the cost of shipping.
-I didn't bleed that much but I may have gotten done faster with more blood :D
-I've probably forgotten some things but i'm sure others will have more advice.
Hope this helps!
L8r

[Turbine Doc]

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005270

This was my post and others following with theirs
I still hold the opinion that while they can be replaced without pulling turbo many have done so, I think right call was to pull it. Now if you doubt ability to break the fasteners free without rounding nut off or snapping a stud; then leave in place but be careful around the heat shielding it's sharp.

GMENOR this is more as info for those stopping by new to the page. Do a search on this topic, I typed in injector and found about 260 posts might want to be more specific say injector replacement will weed out more of the non related stuff.

For all new folks out there search is most underused feature just under the post a relpy heading, beside my profile heading it took me a while to find it when I first joined a couple of years ago.

It's especially useful for new folks looking for old info, what oil, what filter, what mpg, what is most common failure part. Even good for DP veterans while looking for my post I found an interesting thread on water injection I had missed when away from the computer for a bit.

[gmenor]

Dvldog, thogemirep,
Thanks for the replies. Yes I use the search engine but as you stated there is so much out there. Dvldog thanks for offering up the loaner tool but, I plan to buy one anyhow to add to all the one time/one use special tools I've already got. I talked to the dealership mechanic while waiting for the parts guy to return. He claimed that the he hardly ever change injectors. Told him that I have 168k and even after the 10-15 minute warm up I have drive about 2-3 miles before I get any power (injector sticking?). I use Power Diesel additive at every fill up. Mileage is down, lack of power, white smoke at start up and initial run down the road I lay down a pretty good white smoke screen for any tank battalion to hide under. I drive every other week between Fayetteville, NC to Fredericksburg, VA and have notice a dramatic loss of power while passing. Am I missing something here or are these the symptoms that new injectors are in order? While I am under the hood I plan to check the EGR system for possible problems.

[Marty Lau]

I did my injectors and glow plugs last month, I too vote for removing the turbo it's not that hard and makes life alot easier. Also if your need to change glow plugs any time soon do it now as it easier if you have the turbo off, same with heater hoses. I did a bunch of maintaince at once and while the truck was down for a bit it made it easier having raditor off and turbo off.
To bleed the injectors I just loosened the fittings on the injectors on the drivers side and front injector on the passenger side cranked engine for about 30-45 seconds tighten fittings and it started right up. It ran rough for a minute of two and then no problems.

[Turbine Doc]

For bleeding I did 1 bank, started the truck let it get to a good idle, then shut down and did other bank.

[gmenor]

When you changed the injectors did you replace the return lines? Would doing the valve covers be in line or wait for the IP to go out which is probably going to happen - just a matter of borrowed time for 6.5 owners. I'll probably follow you all's advice and do one bank at a time. I already did the glow plugs using JK's quick heat. Hoses were done last summer when I did the high capacity water pump. Contemplating either dump money on a new turbo or 3.5" exhaust system - it will never end. Thanks for the replies.

[rjschoolcraft]

Search some of the past posts. It is definitely easier to take the turbo off.

[Marty Lau]

I did the return lines, my had those stupid little clips which are a PIA. Get JK return kit and you don't have the clips. I figured for $25 I don't want to go back and fight the close spaces again for long time. If your valve covers don't leak don't fool with. Exhaust before Turbo, your engine will run better and cooler and more effcient. Get rid of the factory down pipe!!!!!!!!! :eek: