Stripped Starter Bolt

[Langley89]

So I recently purchased an 85 K20 with the 6.2.
After getting this thing home, it’s definitely a project. I noticed the starter had the wrong bolts (multiple washers between head and starter) and there is no support bracket or heat shield. When I removed the bolts from the “ear” a lot of metal shavings came out. I’m guessing someone tried to repair with an insert?
Could I redo with an insert or should I just put a bolt through it with a nut on the other side?
I’ll post pictures once I figure how to.

[Langley89]

75287529

[arveetek]

I have done the nut and bolt trick on an old 6.2 with the same issue. It worked, but it resulted in a noisy starter due to the alignment being off slightly. I would attempt to redo the thread repair. And make sure you get the proper bracket. There are two brackets available, depending on whether you have the original, direct drive starter or a later model gear reduction starter.

If that doesn't work, here's another, more costly (and time consuming) alternative, but it's pretty slick:

https://leroydiesel.com/products/starter-relocation-kit-for-broken-blocks/

Casey

[Langley89]

Well that is pretty nifty. I’ll have to do the through bolt until I save up for that relocation. I kept finding the BIG Sert thread repair kit. Once I get this mounted back up it’s off on the next thing, looking for a heat shield and better battery cables. Some past owner wrapped the cable in a ton of tape due to it melting.
.7530
thank you

[arveetek]

That's one nasty cable! I have had my local battery supply (such as Battery Outfitters) make me custom cables in the past. They can make some nice stuff, such as a one-piece positive cable that goes from battery to battery to starter.

Casey

[JohnC]

Not sure if you addressed this or not, but, don't be tempted to use it without the bracket on the back of the starter. You'll end up with a block in a lot worse shape than you have now!

[Robyn]

I have seem a couple starters torn off because the tail bracket was not put on.

Also ...Easy way to install the tail bracket is to remove the rubber inner fender flap.
The starter is right in front of you and easy to work on.

Trying to do it from the bottom up is nearly futile ......This is why so many get left off

[Langley89]

Thanks y’all.
Yeah still waiting for that bracket. Right now I’m still looking to see what gaskets/fluids I need for front and rear differential and what fluid for the transfer case.

[Yukon6.2]

Gaskets for the diff covers can be made with RTV or "The Right Stuff"
Front and rear diff fluid 80/90 gear oil or seeing you are in a warmer climate you could go thicker. If you have any posi diffs sometimes you need an additive.
Transfer case is usually ATF if you have an auto transmission.

[Langley89]

7537
yeah I found this last night, so I guess I have other work.

[Robyn]

What is the other work you speak of ?????
I see yellow aired up frothy gear oil.....Water in there too ????

Frothy oil in and of itself is normal after being run.....

Wassssup in there ????

[Langley89]

It looked like there was a little water in there. And this truck hasn’t ran in over a week.
And I figured I would need to clean up the rust that’s in there.

I may need to start a new thread and label it, “The Taped up Bandit” and post pictures of all the stuff I find.

[Robyn]

Ahhhh

Water will make a gooooy yuck for sure...

Considering the possibility of water.....Good plan to get the carrier out and check the bearings....

Look at the rollers as well as the races for rust (Etching) Once this starts it will eventually lead to breakdown of the surface of the bearings and then the bearing will eat itself and by the time you hear the bad noises you have a huge mess to clean up......

Easy task to yank the diiffy apart and pull the bearings.

Keep all the shims in their original locations and replace the bearings/races.

Water that gets in and is flushed out promptly will usually not cause issues.

Letting water sit in the mix for any length of time will do damage.....Since you are in there....Now is a good time to fix it....Wash out the pumpkin and tubes.....Be all good to go...


After they eat themselves, getting all the ground up metal cleaned out is a real challenge

[Langley89]

Thank you very much for the information.

[JohnC]

Don't overlook the pinion bearings...

[Robyn]

What John said

Wheel bearings too....Water and other contaminants basically go system wide once they are there....