83 chevy c-10 won't crank

[RudyJ]

I was working on my C-10 and left the key on for a couple of weeks. When I went to start it I realized what I had done. I put the charger on it and let it charge for a couple of days. When I went and tried to start it it wouldn't do anything. It had power to everything else but would not turn over. The weather got bad so had to stop working on it. I'm just wondering first, what is wrong, then what would have happened when the glow plugs kept cycling. The batteries were brand new, so I'm worried about about them also. Does anyone have any ideas where to start? Any help is appreciated. RudyJ

[DmaxMaverick]

If you discharged the batteries flat, they're very likely toast. Leaving the ignition on for a couple weeks will do that. A day or two with new, fully charged batteries will kill them. Charging them may have brought up the surface voltage enough to operate lights and some instrumentation, but they would have no amperage for a glow cycle or cranking. Monitor battery voltage at key-on and a start attempt.

[RudyJ]

If you discharged the batteries flat, they're very likely toast. Leaving the ignition on for a couple weeks will do that. A day or two with new, fully charged batteries will kill them. Charging them may have brought up the surface voltage enough to operate lights and some instrumentation, but they would have no amperage for a glow cycle or cranking. Monitor battery voltage at key-on and a start attempt.

Thanks for the quick reply DmaxMaerick! I had thought of that just hoping it wasn't the problem. I'm going to try and get them warrantied. Just hope it works out. Thanks for your advice it is appreciated. RudyJ

[Yukon6.2]

There are new "smart chargers" that have a repair mode on them.
I have been getting about 50% of the batteries that would not take a full charge to work after a run through the repair mode.
Something to try if you don't get warranty on them.
The one i bought is a Norco Genius 10

[RudyJ]

There are new "smart chargers" that have a repair mode on them.
I have been getting about 50% of the batteries that would not take a full charge to work after a run through the repair mode.
Something to try if you don't get warranty on them.
The one i bought is a Norco Genius 10

Thanks for the heads up Yukon! I was able to get the batteries warrantied. When the weather clears I'll get them installed and let you know what happened. RudyJ

[RudyJ]

replaced the batteries, bypassed the neutral safety switch chased down wires, still have the same problem. Wires to solenoid on starter look ok , has power. Wondering where to look next. Any Ides? RudyJ

[JohnC]

Wires to solenoid on starter look ok , has power.
Do you mean the solenoid has power when you turn the key to start? If so, check the big battery cable connection at the starter and the grounds from the battery to the engine. If all is good, sounds like the solenoid or starter are bad.

[DmaxMaverick]

If there's power to the starter solenoid and it doesn't engage (even if the starter doesn't turn), then it's bad. If it engages (clunk) and the starter doesn't turn, either it or the starter is bad, or it isn't getting full power, by whatever means (usually a repeated clicking).

[RudyJ]

Do you mean the solenoid has power when you turn the key to start? If so, check the big battery cable connection at the starter and the grounds from the battery to the engine. If all is good, sounds like the solenoid or starter are bad.

Proud Deplorable,
Weather turned off cold, had to quit working on it. I think your right on the solenoid or starter. I was looking in a shop manual and I have a wire on the R side of the solenoid that shouldn't be there. I'm going to move it to the battery cable. I haven't checked to see if the S side wire is broken or melted off or something . Hopefully when it warms back up I'll have a chance to do more with it. Thanks for the reply, it is appreciated. RudyJ

[Yukon6.2]

I had to chuckle at your comment "the weather turned cold" when i looked at your location.
My comment would be for summer "the weather got to hot to work outside"
Here i would think nothing of dropping a starter at -20 C which i believe is -4 F
But when it gets hot like 35 C or 95 F i am inside trying to stay cool somehow, and working is the furthest thing from my mind
Plus put me in the proud deplorable camp.Here we were called the fringe minority by our Blackfaced "leader":cool:
You can try to carefully short out the starter by applying power to the small terminal from the big one with a screwdriver or similar just remember the carefully part as you can melt things if the screwdriver touches ground.
I have used that trick many times to get something running

[RudyJ]

I had to chuckle at your comment "the weather turned cold" when i looked at your location.
My comment would be for summer "the weather got to hot to work outside"
Here i would think nothing of dropping a starter at -20 C which i believe is -4 F
But when it gets hot like 35 C or 95 F i am inside trying to stay cool somehow, and working is the furthest thing from my mind
Plus put me in the proud deplorable camp.Here we were called the fringe minority by our Blackfaced "leader":cool:
You can try to carefully short out the starter by applying power to the small terminal from the big one with a screwdriver or similar just remember the carefully part as you can melt things if the screwdriver touches ground.
I have used that trick many times to get something running


Weather warmed back up so I pulled the starter, tested the solenoid, then the starter motor. Solenoid hummed when I put power to it, then I had to push the solenoid rod to make it work, it did stay in but was already getting warm, so it was shot. Starter motor ran fine.Put it all back together with new solenoid and it cranked right up. The wire I thought was on the R terminal was actually on the S terminal, there was no R terminal. Everything is good to go now. Thank you everyone that responded, the information was appreciated.
RudyJ
Waco, Tx