View Full Version : 1992 6.5 crank no start
The last time it ran was May 10th and I try to start it every 3-4 months. Last time I tried to start it was a month ago and it cranked fine but didn't even seem to try to start. Want to get it running before the cold temperatures add another aspect to the problem and it will be over 80° the next few days. The glow plugs are working and the lift pump is pulsing. Those items and the controller were replaced a few years ago. I also put in this clear fuel line but don't remember what for.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/379330d1440375876-1999-gmc-bluebird-6-5l-td-pmd-resistor-settings-clear-return-line-3_1_.jpg
I think it was to check fuel flow or air bubbles. Well the line has become dark and I can't see anything so I may have to replace it. What can I check in the meantime?
DmaxMaverick
10-26-2023, 19:29
A clear line on the return is helpful to identify bubbles in the fuel, and there should be none. Bubbles that continue make clearing an air-locked fuel pump impossible. Normally, a person would not install a clear line at the IP return without reason, like a no-start.
Once the clear line is replaced (and useful), check the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid). It should clunk at key on/off. If it still doesn't start in a reasonable time, charge the batteries while you remove as many glow plugs as you can reasonably reach. This will expedite getting fuel to the cylinders. It's also a good time to function test the glow plugs. Apply 12V to them until hot. Working glow plugs get stupid hot really fast, so don't touch! If they don't heat, replace. Rarely, they can still show continuity but not heat. Once the batteries are fully charged, crank until you get fuel mist from the glow plug holes. Don't overdo it, as it can get messy. As soon as you see fuel, replace the plugs, and anything else removed. Try a normal start. If you never get the fuel mist from the GP holes, come back and continue this thread, looking for lesser common issues.
An anomaly here...
Thread title 1992 6.5......1992 did not have the DS4 injection pump.
A 1992 should have a DB2 Mechanical pump.
DS4 non start with glow plugs working and fuel delivery....
The driver module on the LH side of the IP is a prime suspect.....
These fail when they fail....No way to predict a failure...
Remove a couple glow plugs on the LH side of the engine....Spin the engine....You should see fuel mist spray out.....No fuel...NO START
As Maverick mentioned....Fuel shut off solenoid...Round unit near the front of the Injector pump.
Easy to check....No click....Suspect...
If solenoid works...Then the driver is suspect....(FSD....PMD) BLACK BOX....
SWAP in a known good unit....."These must be mounted on a heat sink for operation"
But a short test...(Few seconds) without the heat sink will not hurt....
Bad PMD....Remote mount a fresh PMD on a heat sink.....Extension cables are available online
The electrical plug to the PMD can be carefully fished off the box....
There is a resistor in the PMD plug.
Getting it out with the PMD on the IP is tough
Use a #5....Should be fine...
With what Maverick has posted and what I have should get you to the root of the issue....
Remove glow plugs first and give it a spin...no fuel....??? go from there....
Use a #5....Should be fine...
You should be able to read the current resistor number from the PCM, if you want to be a purist.
I'm a little confused here? If it's a stock '92, it's mech. inj. and a DB2 IP, no PMD, right?
An anomaly here...
Thread title 1992 6.5......1992 did not have the DS4 injection pump.
A 1992 should have a DB2 Mechanical pump.
I don't think anybody said it had a DS4? This is a stock 1992 6.5 TD. My initial plan of attack is to directly energize the lift pump and open the bleed valve on the filter to make sure the pump is working.
Look at the picture...
(Good catch, Robyn!)
Yes, it was a good catch. Disregard my post.
DmaxMaverick
10-27-2023, 18:02
I didn't see a pic the first time around. Must have scrolled right past it before it loaded. I see it now, and yeah, that's not a stock 92. The picture title says 99 GMC, so the pic may not be the same as he's actually working on. If he says stock 92, then that's what it is, despite the pic.
I didn't see a pic the first time around. Must have scrolled right past it before it loaded. I see it now, and yeah, that's not a stock 92. The picture title says 99 GMC, so the pic may not be the same as he's actually working on. If he says stock 92, then that's what it is, despite the pic.
Say what? This is a screen shot of my post that says nothing about a 99 GMC picture. Where do you see that?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/screen_shot.jpg
DmaxMaverick
10-27-2023, 20:11
Say what? This is a screen shot of my post that says nothing about a 99 GMC picture. Where do you see that?
The pic isn't of a stock 1992 model anything. Either wrong truck or wrong pic. Late 1992 model year began the 6.5TD, and it was MFI. The 1994 model year began the EFI systems. The image properties of the pic you attached shows the location and original file name: "https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/379330d1440375876-1999-gmc-bluebird-6-5l-td-pmd-resistor-settings-clear-return-line-3_1_.jpg"
I'm not saying you're wrong, just that the math doesn't add up. Let's move past this and get your truck running.
7423
The first thing I saw was the piccy....Then HUH ?????
We need to establish a real visual of the injection pump.....
No matter....The picture shown is a 1994 or later 6.5 with a DS4
Several different avenues of attack on this puppy...Depending on the IP that's on it.....
Valve covers say something like, GM Remanufactured Engine. Did someone put in a newer engine and injection pump? Data plate,
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/IMG_5011.JPG
So, I'm confused. Is the picture of the truck you're working on? If so, it's not a '92 injection pump. To put a late pump in an early truck you'd have to rewire the whole truck. Not that anyone would want to do that, anyhow. The mechanical pumps are much more reliable.
So, I'm confused. Is the picture of the truck you're working on? If so, it's not a '92 injection pump. To put a late pump in an early truck you'd have to rewire the whole truck. Not that anyone would want to do that, anyhow. The mechanical pumps are much more reliable.
The title says 1992, looks like a 92 grille,
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/IMG_6526.JPG
DmaxMaverick
10-28-2023, 08:47
According to the VIN, and the last pic, it's a 1992 3500HD. This is not a light truck, or pickup truck. It's a medium duty chassis. No matter, as the 1992 3500HD was MFI, as well. The first pic, of the IP and a finger pointing to the return line, is from a different Diesel automotive forum website thread, May 4, 2015. The vehicle of discussion in that forum thread was a 1999 GMC 6.5TD in a Bluebird school bus to RV conversion, having stalling issues.
The first pic, of the IP and a finger pointing to the return line, is from a different Diesel automotive forum website thread, May 4, 2015. The vehicle of discussion in that forum thread was a 1999 GMC 6.5TD in a Bluebird school bus to RV conversion, having stalling issues.
I think I know what's up with that picture now. Back when I got the truck 13 years ago I was having starting problems and someone from another forum showed where to add that clear line to see if there is any air in the system. I downloaded it to my album for reference and forgot where it came from after all these years.
Thanks for that, atikovi. This one had me scratching my head.
Sweeeeeeeeeeet
I was starting to think we had us a strange one...
The issue with the no start is similar....But different
The mechanical IP has the shutoff solenoid under the top cap on the IP
The heavy red wire is the power wire to the solenoid
Pull a couple glow plugs on the Driver side....Spin the engine....see if fuel fogs out the glow plug holes....
If no fuel....Possible fuel drain back and air locked IP
The other possible is the shutoff solenoid has failed...
With the red wire on the ip disconnected.....Turn on ign key
Touch the red wire connector to the spade....YOU SHOULD HEAR A CLICK from the IP
Let us know what you get....WE can proceed from there...
Went back to the truck for some testing. Powered the lift pump directly and opened the bleed valve on the filter. For 5 seconds there was gurgling and air coming out, then a solid stream of fuel. Cranked again and no start.
Went to the shut off solenoid and pulled the pink wire. It has power with the key on, and when I put power to the solenoid I hear a faint click. Put power directly to the solenoid and still no start.
Put on a new clear hose. Is fuel supposed to flow with the lift pump on and engine off? Or with the solenoid energized? I see flow only when cranking.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/IMG_20231105_125850082.jpg
I think I should put a fuel pressure gauge on the system and maybe replace the filter.
DmaxMaverick
11-05-2023, 14:37
Fuel should only flow to the return when cranking (injection pump turning), but the lift pump should provide pressure any time it is powered. Any air in the system should push out the return line as it's cranking. If it continues to get more air once bled, you have a leak on the suction side of the system (a pressure side leak will leak out fuel), or the fuel level in the tank is too low.
If you had air in the system, then bled it out via the filter bleeder, the injection pump, injector lines, and injectors are still air-locked. Once you confirm fuel flow/pressure, with no air, remove some glow plugs and crank until you get fuel mist from the GP holes. Keep the batteries fully charged and let the starter cool after a few seconds of cranking. It may take several attempts, about 15 seconds cranking, 2 minutes cooling cycles. Longer cranking, less cooling, or discharged batteries make the process longer, and can damage the starter. Removing glow plugs shortens the process significantly.
arveetek
11-06-2023, 08:13
You mentioned the glow plugs are working; have you actually verified they are heating up? These diesels WILL NOT START without a healthy glow plug system.
Casey
You mentioned the glow plugs are working; have you actually verified they are heating up? These diesels WILL NOT START without a healthy glow plug system.
Casey
Replaced them 8 years ago and have only driven it maybe 20 miles since. It was 70 degrees yesterday and not even a sign of wanting to start after 5 or 6 attempts.
Yukon6.2
11-06-2023, 09:45
Replaced them 8 years ago and have only driven it maybe 20 miles since. It was 70 degrees yesterday and not even a sign of wanting to start after 5 or 6 attempts.
As i wasted a bunch of time yesterday "assuming" my boiler system was ready to start seeing it was working fine when i shut it off last spring.Every fall it's a simple procedure for the first fire and many burns to bring my system up to temp.Not yesterday.It was air-locked and by me assuming it was fine i put the system in jeopardy.If the final safety had not shut down the fan it could have turned into a steam explosion if it was left unattended.
Verify your glow plug system
What you did 8 years ago means nothing today.
arveetek
11-06-2023, 10:27
Verify your glow plug system
What you did 8 years ago means nothing today.
Agreed. Just because it hasn't been driven much doesn't mean there's nothing wrong with the glow plugs. These older IDI GM diesels won't even start in 80 degree weather without some glow assistance.
Plugging in the block heater to warm the engine will help a bunch as well.
Casey
Agreed. Just because it hasn't been driven much doesn't mean there's nothing wrong with the glow plugs. These older IDI GM diesels won't even start in 80 degree weather without some glow assistance.
Plugging in the block heater to warm the engine will help a bunch as well.
Casey
So it wouldn't even SEEM to want to start after all that cranking? Hard to imagine ALL 8 new plugs wouldn't work.
If it's getting fuel but no heat it would blow white "smoke" out the tail pipe. Crack the lines on a couple of injectors and see if they weep fuel when you crank it over.
Yukon6.2
11-07-2023, 09:12
It doesn't matter if the glow plugs are new if they are not getting power
It takes very little time to verify.
If the truck doesn't start you need to diagnose why.
That means checking the things that would make it run and finding the one or ones that are not allowing the engine to start.
Guessing and assuming will waste your time.
Plus it wastes the advice that people are giving you to try and help you.
arveetek
11-07-2023, 12:42
So it wouldn't even SEEM to want to start after all that cranking?
Nope!! I had an 82 6.2L that wouldn't start one day after a massive glow plug failure. I don't remember what happened, but all 8 plugs burned out (probably due to an error that left them on too long). It was 82 degrees, and it wouldn't even hit a lick.
These old, mechanical IDI diesels need just three things to start: fuel, air, and heat.
As long as the air cleaner and intake manifold are open and clean, the engine will get air.
If the fuel system gets air in it, it can be difficult to get out. However, following DmaxMaverick's advice above to get air out will be the best thing to do: remove all 8 glow plugs, and spin the engine over until you get fuel mist coming out. Shouldn't take all that long.
Once you have fuel mist, all you have left is heat. The engine will need to spin pretty fast in order to create enough heat from compression. To assist with cold starts, the glow plugs heat up the air inside the precombustion chamber. Since you have the glow plugs out from the previous step, now is a good time to check them. Once you verify the plugs are good, and that you actually have voltage to the plugs during the glow cycle, the engine WILL start once the plugs are installed (assuming that no one has messed with the injection pump timing at some point).
I rebuilt my 6.5L about 2 years ago. After reinstalling the engine (with new injectors), I followed the procedure above to bleed the system. It worked like a champ, and the engine started almost immediately once I installed the glow plugs. Here's a video of me starting the engine for the very first time; at the point the video starts, I had already spun the engine over without glow plugs until I had fuel mist coming out; I then installed the glow plugs, and then hit the 'record' button on my phone:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPMMtMAyQmo
As you can see, it took very little cranking until she was running.
If you don't have fuel mist when cranking the engine with the glow plugs removed, then we can stop and take a step back to see what is wrong with the fuel delivery system.
I hope this helps!
Casey
One winter day, many years ago, I needed to move our '93 6.5. It had been sitting for several weeks, and when I went to start it it cranked over in that manner where you wonder if it'll make it over the next compression stroke. No need to wonder, though, as it fired off after no more than 4 compression strokes. Cranking RPM in my estimation, was no more than two cylinders per second, or 30 RPM, if my math is correct.
I'm pretty sure the glow plugs were working...
remove all 8 glow plugs, and spin the engine over until you get fuel mist coming out.
I'm working by myself. How do you do that? I mean, I can't watch the plug holes AND crank at the same time. And how long cranking before mist comes out?
DmaxMaverick
11-07-2023, 18:54
Place a paper towel along the bank at the GP holes. Crank for 10-15 seconds. Check the paper towel. Repeat as necessary. You don't need to see fuel at all the cylinders, only a couple. It can take many cycles, like 10-20, but may be as few as 2 or 3. It depends on how much air is in the system, the overall health of the IP and injectors, and/or cranking speed. Keep the batteries charged.
arveetek
11-08-2023, 06:43
I'm working by myself. How do you do that? I mean, I can't watch the plug holes AND crank at the same time. And how long cranking before mist comes out?
It's very obvious when you get fuel mist; it fills the engine bay with what looks like 'smoke'. I did it by myself on mine, and it was very obvious. I think it only took 2 cranking cycles of about 20 seconds before I had a lot of fuel mist.
Casey
Just stand by the driver's door and stick you hand in through the window and turn the key.
With the plugs out the starter can really whip the engine over....Nowhere near the drag as when it's bucking compression....
All the times I have done this with dry fuel system (Injectors, HP lines and a rebuilt IP) and just fuel up to the IP from the filter and the lift pump running full on...The time to have fuel fog out from under the hood was 20-30 seconds of cranking....
Replace the plugs and go for a start....Glow and let it rip......Generally the engine will start and stay running....Maybe a little rough off and on for a short time until it settles down and smooths out to a nice idle.....
If no fuel out the glow plug holes after a couple sessions....PROBLEMS.....Fuel shutoff not working.....
Make sure of 12V to the power plug on the IP....LARGE PINK WIRE ON IP.
Make sure you have fuel delivery to the IP when you are cranking.....
Jumping the LIFT PUMP relay will run the lift pump....
The lift pump comes on during the "POST" for a short time....
Got back to the truck to try again.
Hotwired the lift pump and opened the bleeder on the filter. Got a good bit of bubbles and air for 5 seconds, then a solid stream.
Closed the bleeder on the pump and went to the valve up front. Opened that and got more fuel coming out that rubber hose. Closed the valve and attached a pressure gauge. Getting a good 8 psi with the valve open.
Still no start.
Pulled out 3 glow plugs on the drivers side. With lift pump working I cranked three times, maybe 10 seconds each time. No mist coming out. Dry holes.
Would a bad shutoff solenoid cause this? I hear just a faint click when energizing the terminal and get a bunch of little sparks as well when touching a wire to it. Kind of like when you test a bad window motor with an internal short.
If so do I have to remove the intake cover to access it. There isn't much room to get to it in place.
Keep cranking. Crank at full throttle. The amount of fuel pumped per compression stroke is relatively small compared to the volume of the fuel lines.
Keep in mind that with 5 glow plugs in, the engine may start... You could loosen the B nuts on the remaining injectors to prevent starting.
Keep in mind that with 5 glow plugs in, the engine may start...
If by some miracle that occurs, what's the problem there?
No worries.
If it tries to run it won't hurt it...Shut down and get the plugs back in...
The IP SHOULD make a pretty decent click when you connect the Big pink wire with the ignition on....
A faint click may well indicate a failed shut off solenoid.....
Replacing it is NOT HARD...Just tedious....REMOVE the top cap on the IP.
The solenoid is under the cap.....
You need to read the R&R procedure well....If you replace the solenoid and do not get it in correctly it will allow the engine to start....BUT the throttle will go full on and no way to shut it off....
Get hold of the manual on the DB2 and read the part on replacing the solenoid......
Try a few more spins of the engine to see if she will fuel up before you go after the solenoid...
what's the problem there?
It depends on whether you're expecting it and shut it off or you're not expecting it and freeze (with your foot on the throttle and fuel spraying out of three holes.) Just a heads up...
Yukon6.2
11-10-2023, 09:15
Also plug in the block heater,any heat will help
Did you by chance test the glow plug system while you have some plugs out?
If it's not misting any fuel out of the glow plug holes as others mentioned, I don't think that's my first priority. The plugs and relay have maybe a dozen starts on them.
Yukon6.2
11-14-2023, 10:02
checking the glow system and block heater are just as important as getting fuel.
it will not start without heat,it will not start without fuel.
Kinda a symbiotic situation.You need both to get the engine to run.
Why not rule out one of them if you haven't figured out the fuel by now with everyone's help at least you could report back the 8 glow-plugs are good and the glow-plugs are getting power.
At least you would be one step closer
Got back to the truck and removed the stop solenoid cover. So how does it look inside?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/a.jpg
Looks fine to me. And solenoid itself,
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/b.JPG
Ok too. Plunger pulls in solid with power at the terminals but nothing when I put ground on the housing. I think there is some corrosion between the terminal and housing where a screw bolts it down. In the IP I didn't hear it click as firmly. Will clean it up and try again.
Be very sure when you reinstall the Top of the IP (Solenoid) that the linkage fits in correctly.
Activating the solenoid should make a distinct CLICK
If the solenoid is not in correctly the engine will go to FULL FUEL and NO WAY TO SHUT IT OFF ....!!!!!!!
Yukon6.2
12-09-2023, 10:44
The metal filings stuck to the solenoid don't look very promising...
Looks like a lot of debris inside the pump as well
Look at the glow plug system yet?
DieselDavy
12-09-2023, 15:55
I'm glad you came to this site for help. A bunch of VERY experienced folks here to help you get your rig going.
I've been around this style IP all my life. (A version of it is used on the John Deer 4020, six cylinder vs. 8 cylinder, but the same basic unit.) If it were mine, I would do three things now.
1. Change that shut off solenoid. They aren't that expensive. Heed Robyn's advice about installing correctly
2. Follow the procedure to check for fuel at the glow plug holes as described above. I agree that it could take a few cranking sessions to achieve this. I might pull a couple more glow plugs just to ease the load on your started/batteries and to make sure it doesn't start quite yet.
3. If the above works and you get evidence of fuel at the glow plug holes: Stop, Check all of your glow plugs now as described above. You need to do it sometime anyway! I hear what you are saying about being almost new. Like Casey, I also have had to change all 8 at one time due to accidental extended glow time.
Keep us in the loop, we want to see you succeed!
Dave
2. Follow the procedure to check for fuel at the glow plug holes as described above.
This is also a perfect opportunity to confirm the fuel shutoff solenoid works. Just pull the wire off and confirm the fuel stops pumping out of the glow plug holes.
Yukon....Good call on the metal filings.
IF IT WERE MY CALL.....I WOULD GET THAT PUMP TO A QUALIFIED SHOP and have it looked at.
Where all the crap came from..... ?????
May be the IP ate itself....Possible lift pump failure......If there is crud in the filter you need to figure out where it came from.
The IP is constantly sending fuel back to the tank....So the entire system can be fouled.
With metal in the IP....THE STUFF LIKELY traveled to the injectors too.....
I WOULD NOT even try a restart....Find out where the junk came from...Clean up the mess...Flush the system and get the IP and the squirts in order....Then move on...
Check the filter and see if there is junk in there....
The metal filings stuck to the solenoid don't look very promising...
Looks like a lot of debris inside the pump as well
Look at the glow plug system yet?
That's not metal, or at least doesn't feel like it. For not being open at least the 13 years I've had it and who knows how long before, I thought it looked ok. Anyway, I now know what the solenoid clicking should sound like and maybe there was just a weak ground. I'll clean that up, put it back, and see what happens. Any danger if it starts with 3 glow plugs out?
Yukon6.2
12-10-2023, 10:22
I doubt that it will start.I would bet hard earned money on the fact that yes those are metal particles just by the way the magnet has attracted them.Plus the orange sludge doesn't belong inside an Injection pump.It should be spotless inside.Anything you see inside the injection pump has already been forced inside you injectors
If it didn't start before taking the cover off the pump,removing it and replacing it would have not achieved anything other than seeing the crud inside.
You need to follow the troubleshooting tips you have been given to try and find out why it will not start.
If it was my truck and i saw that pump apart...
I would...
Step 1 remove pump and replace with a know good used one, or have it rebuilt.Maybe pull the injectors for cleaning and testing if you are sending the pump to a shop
Step 2 while waiting for the pump rebuild clean the fuel system.
Step 3 check and verify the glow plug system including checking each glow plug,at this point there should be no glow plugs in the motor
Step 4 check and verify the block heater works.Charge and check the health of your batteries
Step 5 Plug in the working block heater, install good IP and injectors
Step 6 crank until mist is seen coming from glow plug holes,if you haven't changed the pump double check the shut off solenoid works by disconnecting the power wire to the solenoid and crank to verify there is no new fuel coming out the glow plug holes
Step 7 replace the glow plugs and start the truck
That would be my course of action.
Just a warning.....Do your initial testing with all the glow plugs out.....Spin the engine with the plugs out until you get fuel mist....Disconnect the power to the IP
Crank the engine ...YOU SHOULD NOT SEE ANY FUEL MIST.
IF YOU SEE FUEL MIST WITH THE POWER OFF OF THE IP....THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE SOLENOID NOT CONNECTED CORRECTLY
Trying to run the engine will result in the engine running away and destroying itself...../Getting the cover back on has to be just right.....
If the fuel stops when power is removed...Replace the glow plugs and go for a start.
RH side plugs are easy to get to...
Remove RH front wheel/tire....Unsnap the rubber flap on the inner fender..
Plugs are easy to reach through the hole in the fender....EXCEPT #8
#8 MUST BE REACHED FROM UNDER THE RIG......Not bad though...
I doubt that it will start.I would bet hard earned money on the fact that yes those are metal particles just by the way the magnet has attracted them.Plus the orange sludge doesn't belong inside an Injection pump.It should be spotless inside.Anything you see inside the injection pump has already been forced inside you injectors
If it didn't start before taking the cover off the pump,removing it and replacing it would have not achieved anything other than seeing the crud inside.
You need to follow the troubleshooting tips you have been given to try and find out why it will not start.
If it was my truck and i saw that pump apart...
I would...
Step 1 remove pump and replace with a know good used one, or have it rebuilt.Maybe pull the injectors for cleaning and testing if you are sending the pump to a shop
Step 2 while waiting for the pump rebuild clean the fuel system.
Step 3 check and verify the glow plug system including checking each glow plug,at this point there should be no glow plugs in the motor
Step 4 check and verify the block heater works.Charge and check the health of your batteries
Step 5 Plug in the working block heater, install good IP and injectors
Step 6 crank until mist is seen coming from glow plug holes,if you haven't changed the pump double check the shut off solenoid works by disconnecting the power wire to the solenoid and crank to verify there is no new fuel coming out the glow plug holes
Step 7 replace the glow plugs and start the truck
That would be my course of action.
It started fine a few months ago. Cleaning the terminal and ground to the stop solenoid and replacing it is the first thing I would try. Making sure that works is a whole lot simpler than removing and replacing the pump.
Yukon6.2
12-11-2023, 09:05
Go ahead
You be you and we will keep trying to give you advice,till all has been given
Yukon6.2
12-12-2023, 09:30
looks like a long story...
better make a bunch of popcorn
Got back to the truck today. I see all the fuel in IP as pictured in post #44 has disappeared. Did it drain away somewhere or just evaporate? Only had a piece of cardboard over it.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/d106/atikovi/IMG_20231225_125334570_HDR.jpg
Anyway, put back the IP cover and stop solenoid after cleaning the grounding, and bolted back on the air intake. Went to start it and for the first time in 6 months it felt like it was trying to start. So I put back the glow plugs I had previously removed, and tried again. After a half dozen tries, it finally started up and in a few seconds was purring like a cat.
Thanks a lot for those that suggested I test the glow plugs, remove ALL the glow plugs and crank it over, or even to remove the IP itself and get it checked. (sarcasm) I prefer to do the simplest and most logical things first, and a stop solenoid issue would be at the top of the list for a crank no start. Unlikely that ALL glow plugs would fail at once, and even if they did, there should still be some inclination of it starting. And unlikely an IP issue when it ran fine previously. If it had I problem, I'd think performance would have deteriorated or the engine would have shown some smoke. Anyway, thanks for the advice about the stop solenoid.
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