Glow plug replacement

[Beedee]

I remember reading a post one time about how to get swollen injectors out and what to do if they break. I've done a search but can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
Haven't even bought the new plugs yet, but just getting ready. When I started up this morning, it did the rattle, knock routine until it warmed enought to fire on all 8. Time to get ready for winter :eek:
And while I'm here, which series of glow plugs have people had the best luck with.
Once again, thanks in advance

[charliepeterson]

Hopefully all eight will come out. If they don't you need to pull straight out, not up and down or side to side. I've had good luck with side cutters gripping very low and using leverage to carefully bend with pressure keeping on a straight line. Be patient!

If the tip looks like it broke off, now you MUST pull that injector out and roll the engine up to TDC for this hole and pull the pieces out with a coat hanger and some chassis grease on the tip.

You've got a '98, so you have the newer stile GP's? These can take the heat better than the older ones! Excess heat swells the tips.

GM now uses AC Delco 60g's. Any parts store can get these. John Kennedy has a better style as "quick heats". These can take tremendous heat and longer cycles for those really cold days.

good luck

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
Matco lists a Glow plug removal kit for our trucks Part#OTC6005. You can probably get it from OTC also. These work good, but I've also used a vise-grip and a small pry bar. The best way I've to get at them is jack up the front, remove both wheels and do it from the wheel well. Remove the heat shields from the passenger side and have fun with #8! :D :mad: Hopefully you wont have any swelled. But as stated before PULL STRAIGHT OUT! I've had good luck with "PB blaster" penatrating oil if things are bad. The injector and the glowplug are both in the pre-chamber, so if you do break one off it shouldn't be in the combustion chamber and if it is GOOD LUCK. I have used both 60g and JK quick heats. Both work great. when you put the new ones in use some COPPER based high temp never sieze on the threads, keeps out the rust and makes a better contact. while your in there make sure and check all your glow-plug wires/conectors. they tend to get brittle and crack.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[MEdlin]

Anyone ever try the Bosch glow plugs? Diesel Injection Service sells them for $21.60 each vs. the stock AC Delco for $11.53.

[MikeC]

There was a tip here a while back that seemed like it should work well.

The idea was to take a small piece of aluminum angle and use a pair of vise grips to clamp it to the exposed threads of a glow plug that had swollen. Then continue to back the plug out. The aluminum works as a "thread extension" and the glow plug rotates as it slowly comes out aligned with the hole.

If anyone remembers more detains please jump in.

Mike

[CleviteKid]

Dvldog 8793:

You were very specific about using COPPER based Never-Seez on glow plugs. I would be interested in your reasons for favoring copper.

I am a big fan of NICKEL based Never-Seez, but if there is a reason to prefer copper for certain applications, either because of temperature range, compatibility with materials, less likely to weld, etc., we could all benefit from your experience.

My guess is that you wanted to make sure that regular grease or silicone was not used when a metal-based Never-Seez was required. And the copper is a whole lot cheaper than the Nickel based compound.

Thanx in advance for your contribution to our mutual knowledge base,

Dr. Lee :cool:

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
I use the copper base for the metalic and temp range properties mainly. When I worked for Motorola we used copper base never sieze on our lightning protection(you can't REALLY protect anything from lightning as it pretty much does whatever it wants :D ) systems to increase conductivity and prevent galling of the SS hardware. I have never used the nickel base stuff but I would guess it would work the same. And yes any other kind of thread sealant/greese/goop can wreck havok on the electrical conection between the block and plug. I like the copper because it is what I am familiar with, works well, and helps to promote a good electrical contact for glow plugs. Also it seems to be readily available at most stores. As I've stated before though, you should be sure to compensate any torque values for ANY products used on threads.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[Beedee]

Thanks for the input guys.
Working a new shift, 5:00 at night until 3:30 in the morning, walking around in a bit of a daze for most of the day, so haven't had much time on the computer or the pickup :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
Might be time for this wrench to find a new job :(