Seized injection pump

[Charles6.5]

I have a 2002 workhorse p42 with a 6.5 Detroit/Ds4
I ran out of fuel last week. I put fuel in it and couldn’t get it restarted.
I bled the fuel out of the top of the filter. Cut the drain line going to the T-valve because it was blocked, flushed it out and clamped the line. Replaced the pmd with a remote kit and installed old resistor in it. Removed the fuel shut off solenoid. It lifts when the ignition turns on. Clear steady fuel flows into injection pump, and no bubbles at shut off hole. I removed (2) injector lines and cranked it for 20 second intervals and nothing from the injector lines. Is the pump seized? Any ideas?

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

It's certainly possible, but highly unlikely the pump is seized. It sounds like it's simply air-locked, or it isn't commanding fuel, for any number of reasons. The most common issue with a remote PMD kit, is the kit, specifically a substandard extension harness. Also note, the original ground wire from the harness MUST be secured to the pump. Plug it into the OEM connector and give it a go (temporarily secure the PMD with heat sink close enough, or use the OEM location if there's still a PMD there). You don't have to sweat the resistor at this time (it will start/run without it, if it would start otherwise). Keep the batteries fully charged and plug in the block heater (anything that helps, helps). You can speed things along by removing the upper intake and dribble fuel into the intake runners. Restore the ESS (Engine Stop Solenoid) ASAP. It is the ONLY means for the PCM to stop the engine if the PMD decides to run away.

[Charles6.5]

I disconnected the filter housing and cleaned it out, hooked a gage up to the drain line and put better hose clamps on everything.
I get steady fuel from the tank if I disconnect it from the filter. If I hook up the filter without the filter housing wires connected, I get about 4psi if I turn the ignition on. I plugged the wires in and didn’t get any more pressure. Then I directed wired the red and black on the bottom of the filter housing (the lift pump?) and it doesn’t do anything. Is that the lift pump?

[Charles6.5]

I watched a video and found the lift pump in the frame. I’m going to unplug it and see if I have the same pressure from the tanks pump alone.

[DmaxMaverick]

The harness/connector on the filter assembly is for the heater. If you're getting 4 PSI supplied to the IP, the lift pump is doing its part. 4 - 10 PSI is the specified range. Any pressure above zero at any RPM or load is acceptable, and all that's required. There is NO lift pump in the tank(s), like you might find on a gasser.

[Charles6.5]

The harness/connector on the filter assembly is for the heater. If you're getting 4 PSI supplied to the IP, the lift pump is doing its part. 4 - 10 PSI is the specified range. Any pressure above zero at any RPM or load is acceptable, and all that's required. There is NO lift pump in the tank(s), like you might find on a gasser.


Cleaned filter/housing, checked screen/fuel manager, replaced Pmd, fuel shut off actuates, it’s a 2002, so the oil pressure switched isn’t an issue. I bleed the lines, installed screw type hose clamps everywhere and have 7lbs @ injection pump. If I remove the return line on top of the injection pump it trickles when the lift pump is on, but steadily comes out if the engine is being turned over. All the air is out to there. Removed intake and 4 injector lines directly from the pump. Built pressure up from the lift pump, turned it over for two 30 second intervals. I get nothing from the pump to the injector lines. Is there anything else I could try or is the pump shot?

[a5150nut]

Usually you bleed the lines at the injector end. Much like bleeding brakes

[Charles6.5]

Usually you bleed the lines at the injector end. Much like bleeding brakes

I cracked one line first at the injector, Dry, nothing came out. Tried next dry. 3rd and 4th were wet but no spray. Then I opened 4 at the pump. All dry. Turning the engine over at each step.

[Yukon6.2]

Did you try plugging in the block heater, and after a couple hours when the engine is warm dribble some clean diesel into the intake runners and try to start it?

[More Power]

...Then I directed wired the red and black on the bottom of the filter housing (the lift pump?) and it doesn’t do anything. Is that the lift pump?

Those wires are for the fuel filter assembly's internal fuel heater. It's thermostatically controlled to activate at +20F and below.

There are six bolts on top of the intake manifold upper housing. Remove the center front bolt, and trickle into the bolt hole about 2 tablespoons of clean diesel fuel. Then, let the glow plugs cycle, then crank the engine. It should stumble/smoke and may almost start... Do this 2-3 more times till the engine starts.

This is giving the engine enough fuel to spin faster than the 200-rpm cranking speed. This helps the fuel injection system to expel any air in the injector fuel lines. Also... be sure to tighten all of the fuel injector line fitting nuts at each injector before cranking. A loose/leaking fuel injector line is like pulling the spark plug wire on a gas engine. That cylinder won't fire.

This thread explains in more detail how I started a newly rebuilt 6.5TD: https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?46770-6-5L-Turbo-Diesel-Blazer-Project&p=332619#post332619
(https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?46770-6-5L-Turbo-Diesel-Blazer-Project&p=332619#post332619)

[Robyn]

When you run one of these dry....BONES DRY....DEAD....The entire fuel system is full of air...

Pull the glow pugs out and spin the engine over with the plugs out.....

When the fuel system is trying to get fuel through fighting compression it takes a lot of cranking..

Batteries go away and starters fry.....


Spinning the engine with the plugs out will prime it up in short order........

Usually a couple 15 second hits will get fuel mist blowing out the glow plug holes...

The Driver side plugs are easy......The passenger side can be accessed by removing the RH front tire/wheel.....Block the rig good..

Remove the rubber flap over the upper control arm.

The first 3 plugs are easy.....Forget about the last one.....It will clear out once the engine starts.

Twist it's tail for 15-20 seconds......Wait a few minutes and spin it again.......You should see fuel blowing out the glow plug holes in huge clouds....

Replace the plugs.....Turn on the key and let it glow....Crank it.....It should start.

Will likely run a tad rough for a short while until #8 clears out (Plug in the rear on the RH side)

Run #1......DO NOT RUN THESE OUT OF FUEL......

[Charles6.5]

thanks, I’ll give it a shot.

When you run one of these dry....BONES DRY....DEAD....The entire fuel system is full of air...

Pull the glow pugs out and spin the engine over with the plugs out.....

When the fuel system is trying to get fuel through fighting compression it takes a lot of cranking..

Batteries go away and starters fry.....


Spinning the engine with the plugs out will prime it up in short order........

Usually a couple 15 second hits will get fuel mist blowing out the glow plug holes...

The Driver side plugs are easy......The passenger side can be accessed by removing the RH front tire/wheel.....Block the rig good..

Remove the rubber flap over the upper control arm.

The first 3 plugs are easy.....Forget about the last one.....It will clear out once the engine starts.

Twist it's tail for 15-20 seconds......Wait a few minutes and spin it again.......You should see fuel blowing out the glow plug holes in huge clouds....

Replace the plugs.....Turn on the key and let it glow....Crank it.....It should start.

Will likely run a tad rough for a short while until #8 clears out (Plug in the rear on the RH side)

Run #1......DO NOT RUN THESE OUT OF FUEL......