Used Stamped Rocker Arms?

[alanjd93]

I've been thinking of upgrading my old cast rocker arms and shafts to stamped steel while I have the 6.2 apart. Is this something I can get away with running used parts, or would I be better off saving the money for new? Rock Auto sells Sealed Power shafts for 30 a piece and Melling arms for 10. Whatever I end up doing, I'm planning on getting a brand new set of buttons for them. If I were to go with a used set is there anything I should be looking out for in terms of wear/damage?
As always, thanks in advance for any advice!

[DmaxMaverick]

Just curious, but are yours broken? These aren't, necessarily, consumable items, and rarely require routine replacement. If they haven't broke yet, they aren't likely to.

[ronniejoe]

On the stamped rockers, the tips that rub against the top of the valve stem can wear a step. This causes a loss of lift and can eventually lead to failure. I would inspect them very carefully and if no wear step is present, feel comfortable about using them. Also, check for wear in the push rod pocket. I've seen some heavy wear there and on the end of the push rod.

[alanjd93]

Just curious, but are yours broken? These aren't, necessarily, consumable items, and rarely require routine replacement. If they haven't broke yet, they aren't likely to.

My current arms and shafts seemed to be fine when I removed them, nothing jumped out at me at least... they're in a box with the lifters and pushrods so I'll take a closer look this weekend. Main reason I wanted to switch is I have heard the cast ones are more prone to failure.

[alanjd93]

On the stamped rockers, the tips that rub against the top of the valve stem can wear a step. This causes a loss of lift and can eventually lead to failure. I would inspect them very carefully and if no wear step is present, feel comfortable about using them. Also, check for wear in the push rod pocket. I've seen some heavy wear there and on the end of the push rod.

Thanks for the input! Is there anything I should look out for on the shafts themselves? If these are less wear-prone than the arms I don't mind getting used shafts and possibly running new arms on them if need be.

[ronniejoe]

I have never seen a problem with the rocker shafts themselves. However, that does not mean that it cannot happen. I inspect the wear area on the bottom side where the rocker arm rubs. If it looks OK, I use them. As I said, I've never seen a problem with the shafts.

[DmaxMaverick]

My current arms and shafts seemed to be fine when I removed them, nothing jumped out at me at least... they're in a box with the lifters and pushrods so I'll take a closer look this weekend. Main reason I wanted to switch is I have heard the cast ones are more prone to failure.

I've heard the same, for years, and it may have been an issue very early on in limited occurrences. Just haven't seen any evidence of it in over 30 years.

In regards to the push rods, why replace used with used? You're just as likely, perhaps more likely, to replace good parts with less good parts. If they are straight, the hardened end is good, and don't show any obvious signs of excessive wear or damage, they're good. Make sure they are installed correctly, or they'll fail, old or new.

[alanjd93]

This is a very good point... I've been getting kinda carried away with this build. I can't seem to wrap my head around the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset. This has caused me to go way over my initial budget and timeframe, and as a result I haven't driven my Suburban in a couple years... I'll take a closer look at the cast ones I currently have this weekend. If they look good maybe I'll just run them. If later down the line there are issues, it's not a bad job to pull the valve covers and replace them when they actually need it.

[More Power]

A big part of the "wear" occurring in these engines is because of soot accumulation in the motor oil. Soot is abrasive. Part of the API diesel rating of motor oils produced for a diesel engine defines its ability to suspend (deal with) soot. Change your engine's oil every 3000 miles using a diesel rated 15W-40. I'd recommend a good, national brand petroleum oil, due to the lower cost of petroleum oils and that the oil needs to be changed at 3k intervals. You can get these oils at CostCo, Wal-Mart, etc for good prices... usually.

[Robyn]

PUSH ROD BIGGY

The push rods are location specific.
The ball end that goes into the rocker arm is hardened....the ball end that goes to the lifter is not.

There is either a paint mark on the rod end that goes to the rocker...or the ball will be copper colored.

Careful inspection of the ball ends of the PR will show the difference....

I have seen some PR sets that have a paint band on the Rocker ends and others with the copper colored balls.....

And to make matters even more interesting....some are not marked or the marking have gone away....

Usually it can be determined though....Mark goes to the rockers.....

Reversing the PR will cause premature and rapid wear of the rocker arm and the ball end.

Just makes more work later on...

[Bigshankhank]

PUSH ROD BIGGY

The push rods are location specific.
The ball end that goes into the rocker arm is hardened....the ball end that goes to the lifter is not.

There is either a paint mark on the rod end that goes to the rocker...or the ball will be copper colored.

Careful inspection of the ball ends of the PR will show the difference....

I have seen some PR sets that have a paint band on the Rocker ends and others with the copper colored balls.....

And to make matters even more interesting....some are not marked or the marking have gone away....

Usually it can be determined though....Mark goes to the rockers.....

Reversing the PR will cause premature and rapid wear of the rocker arm and the ball end.

Just makes more work later on...
When I pulled the head on my RV 6.2l I looked and looked for any kind of marking or distinction on either end of my pushrods, I ended up taking a piece of painter's blue tape and wrapping the upper ends and even labelled them for each cylinder and whether it was exhaust or intake. Better safe than sorry.

[Robyn]

Certainly better than getting them in backwards.

Many of the paint marks wash off with the hot oil...

[alanjd93]

Thanks for the tips! I did end up getting a new set of pushrods because I was uncertain of the orientation of the ones that came out of the engine... I installed them in a block of wood when I originally removed them in the positions and orientation that they came out, but upon further inspection I think some of them may have been installed upside down by the PO. Nothing looks worn oddly enough, but some of the contact marks look different than others. I couldn't see any copper or paint marks on them either so I decided to just play it safe. A new set of 16 was only $40 on Rock Auto. I did find out that my other engine sitting in the corner has the later stamped rocker arms last night though. They look to be in good shape too! I'll do a thorough inspection of both sets later this week. If they are in good useable condition would you recommend going with the stamped rockers with a new set of retainers?