View Full Version : 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo Build
Hello!
The goal of this build is for me to address issues with my J Code Surplus 6.2L diesel that I did a refresher (With Upgrades) last summer and to add a Banks Turbo Sidewinder kit on it!
Recently pulled from my M1009 that can be found here:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1009-6-2-diesel-removal-guide.198509/
With the 6.2 on the motor stand...
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I removed...
The Cdr valve
Vacuum hose
Intake manifold
Oil fill tube
Injection pump
It only took me 15 minutes...
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Off with the Alternators!
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And the coolant crossover!
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Bye bye fuel lines!
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There goes another 15 mins...
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Bench space looking good!
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Tools screaming Harbor Freight, O’REILLYs and Autozone!
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IDK why some guys complain when it’s sooo easy a 12 year old can do this!
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Pass side Exhaust Manifold off...
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Driver side Exhaust Manifold off...
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Fuel pump and fuel plate off...
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Injectors off...
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Ordered new lifters because we have some lifter failure, new head gaskets and TTY bolts because the ARP stud Thread Sealer failed and apon further inspection, the Arp studs crept loose. To my calculations they crept out to 50 foot pounds of torque...
Waiting on parts to continue.
So ARPs instructions say to use only their thread sealer on the ends of the studs and their “Special” Molly lube on the washers, nuts and threads of the top side of the stud and torque to 90 pounds.
I think I will give the Arp studs another shot! But this time I am going to use Heaths method.
“ Before installing Fel-Pro head gaskets on the locating dowels, Heath coated them with Permatex Copper Coat gasket sealer. After the heads were set on the block, each stud was installed after applying Permatex Ultra Grey to the coarse-thread end of the stud. The studs have to be sealed, as they screw into the water jackets. The threads were loaded to their major diameter with sealer-no more, no less.
They were then run into the block and fully seated before being backed off an eighth of a turn. When all of the studs were installed, a little brush was used to coat the threads with ARP's special lube. Next, on went ARP washers, which are lubed on both surfaces. Then the nuts were run up and down by hand. This last step was intended to distribute the lube onto the threads of both the stud and the nut in order to assure the lowest friction when tightening them up. Next, and per the factory torque sequence, the ARP nuts were torqued to 25 ft-lb. The torque was increased in 10-pound increments till it was at 115 ft-lb. Then the engine was allowed to sit overnight, and each stud was retorqued again to 115 ft-lb.”
Also this time I am not going to add the Copper Spray a Gasket on the head gaskets. I believe it adds too much fluff or coosh making the studs loose over time.
I might consider re torquing again after the motor warms up and cools off.
I remember the last time I used the Copper Spray. I had to clean off a lot of excess material from the sides of the heads. Now imagine all that excessive material inside the block restricting coolant and oil flow...
After I pull the heads I will share the pictures for sure to confirm my theory.
Yukon6.2
10-05-2020, 09:13
Looks like a great project.
When you reassemble don't use as much silicon as the last person.All those ribbons of excess silicon can break free and plug vital things like the rad or oil pickup screen,ect.
Looks like a great project.
When you reassemble don't use as much silicon as the last person.All those ribbons of excess silicon can break free and plug vital things like the rad or oil pickup screen,ect.
Thx for the advice
Tonight after work I got to play with my new angle die grinder and I cleaned up the Banks fuel pump plate with the turbo oil drain bung. Gave it 3 coats of rust resistant black paint. I also cleaned up the area for the fuel pump on the motor.
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More Power
10-07-2020, 10:00
Before installing Fel-Pro head gaskets on the locating dowels, Heath coated them with Permatex Copper Coat gasket sealer.
Doing that will ruin the gaskets.
The Fel-Pro gaskets are manufactured with a factory-applied thermal-set coating, which is one of several features that make them superior to any other brand or type of head gaskets. These gaskets bond to the head and block decks over a few heat/cooling cycles. Smearing copper sealer over the top of the thermal-set adhesive ruins the engineering of the bond.
In addition... the Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that self-compensates for thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax is produced using TTY head bolts.
Our own 6.5TD Power Project (https://www.thedieselpage.com/finale.htm) engine was assembled using Fel-Pro head gaskets and Fel-Pro TTY head bolts using Fel-Pro's and our own recommended procedure. That engine delivered perfect service approaching nearly 300,000 miles before it was sold to an out-of-state buyer. During that 7 year period and all those miles, the head gaskets were never a problem.
I guess maybe if I sold head studs I'd push them too.... no, no I wouldn't...
Doing that will ruin the gaskets.
The Fel-Pro gaskets are manufactured with a factory-applied thermal-set coating, which is one of several features that make them superior to any other brand or type of head gaskets. These gaskets bond to the head and block decks over a few heat/cooling cycles. Smearing copper sealer over the top of the thermal-set adhesive ruins the engineering of the bond.
In addition... the Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that self-compensates for thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax is produced using TTY head bolts.
Our own 6.5TD Power Project (https://www.thedieselpage.com/finale.htm) engine was assembled using Fel-Pro head gaskets and Fel-Pro TTY head bolts using Fel-Pro's and our own recommended procedure. That engine delivered perfect service approaching nearly 300,000 miles before it was sold to an out-of-state buyer. During that 7 year period and all those miles, the head gaskets were never a problem.
I guess maybe if I sold head studs I'd push them too.... no, no I wouldn't...
I totally agree with you! I tried the copper spray once already but believe this product is not good for head gaskets. I mentioned that on post 10 of this thread. I’ll take a look at your build link you just posted. I love to read! I’ve read over 100 6.2/6.5 articles and builds already.
Today I decided to not use the rebuilt badger diesel injection pump for this build. I had to advance it about 1/2 inch to get the motor running right. I figure it was a crap rebuild.
Apon further inspection, the badger diesel advance piston was sticking causing havoc on the fuel timing. In the pictures you can see the huge gap between the piston and the rocker arm adjustment screw.
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Unfortunately, Badger Diesels 1 year warranty is up so I decided to use the low mile J code injection pump that originally came with this surplus motor. Here is picture of the advance piston rod in its correct position not sticking.
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Since I have the Injection pump out I turned up the fuel screw from the side access plate 1/4 turn clockwise as required for the banks sidewinder turbo.
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Using no gaskets, I installed the freshly refurbished Banks fuel pump plate with bung and the almost new mechanical fuel pump with push rod.
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I will only be doing one side of the motor at a time to reduce dust, bugs and whatever.
Removed the passenger valve cover. The seal looked great with no leaks or blow outs.
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I removed the pressed rocker arms and push rods placing them on paper towels on my work bench in order of how I removed them. Marked the top of the paper towel as passenger rear for reference.
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Then I removed my labeled sensor and glow plugs placing them on the paper towel in order. Looks like the sensor was leaking oil threw the threads. Will have to use thread tape when I put it back on.
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Next I unbolted the Arp head stud nuts and took out the washers placing them on my work bench. Every Arp stud rocked in place after removing the nuts and washers.
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I identified 5 coolant leaks coming from 5 Arp studs. 3 under valve cover and 2 on outside of valve cover. It is my right to say the Arp thread sealer sucks azz! I will use Optimum Black next time I install the studs.
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More Power
10-08-2020, 10:40
Back when I installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo system on my 6.2L diesel (1982 GMC K1500), I reinstalled a mechanical fuel lift pump using the supplied parts and instructions - sorta like what you're doing. Once complete I decided then that I wouldn't do it again. Here's why...
1- The lift pump and its related fuel lines are uncomfortably close to the exhaust crossover pipe that connects the driver's side exhaust manifold to the new Banks passenger side exhaust manifold. It's really tight... and you must install the heat shielding to reduce the potential for a fire...
2- Once all of the parts had been installed I realized that replacing the lift pump would be a big problem in the future. To help mitigate that potential I installed a new OEM lift pump. But, that potential problem remained...
I decided after the installation that I should have installed an electric fuel lift pump, that operated much like the 6.5 lift pump. Doing that would greatly simplify the turbo system installation, reduce the fire hazard, make it easier to maintain, and... I could use the electric fuel lift pump to prime a future replacement of the fuel filter.
There... you've been informed!
Back when I installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo system on my 6.2L diesel (1982 GMC K1500), I reinstalled a mechanical fuel lift pump using the supplied parts and instructions - sorta like what you're doing. Once complete I decided then that I wouldn't do it again. Here's why...
1- The lift pump and its related fuel lines are uncomfortably close to the exhaust crossover pipe that connects the driver's side exhaust manifold to the new Banks passenger side exhaust manifold. It's really tight... and you must install the heat shielding to reduce the potential for a fire...
2- Once all of the parts had been installed I realized that replacing the lift pump would be a big problem in the future. To help mitigate that potential I installed a new OEM lift pump. But, that potential problem remained...
I decided after the installation that I should have installed an electric fuel lift pump, that operated much like the 6.5 lift pump. Doing that would greatly simplify the turbo system installation, reduce the fire hazard, make it easier to maintain, and... I could use the electric fuel lift pump to prime a future replacement of the fuel filter.
There... you've been informed!
Ok. Thanks for the advice!
With the head still on, I removed the Arp studs. I did not have to double nut them because after I made them hand tight, I turned the 1/4 turn clockwise.
Inspecting every stud, I can see the Arp thread sealer failure. It looks as if it chemically disintegrated from the coolant. Also was still gooey like straight from the tube. I then placed all the studs on my work bench for future cleaning and use. Some of the studs threads didn’t even have the sealer on them anymore.
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I don’t like pry heads off if I can. So I used a rubber mallet and gently hit the sides of the heads to help loosen them.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/C561537F_D2DF_4580_A2C2_78D38F689F81_IMG_0879.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ce2ca6bf-7c66-41d2-b9f2-6a7ea04cd938)
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The rubber mallet method did not work this time to take the head off. I believe the copper spray acted like a glue. I could not even pry them off. I had to use a chisel and gently hammer it between the block and head to break the seal. She is off with no damage from the chisel. I put the head outside on my other toolbox.
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Cleaning up gaskets can be nasty work. I like to use proper Ppe when working with any harmful substances.
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I stuffed paper towels in the 3 cylinders and lifter compartment so gasket and angle grinder material getting in the motor is minimal.
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Using a razor blade and my shop vac, I carefully removed as much gasket I could get from the block.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/06F3A3D6_69CF_4670_B46A_BF8CC9BEEA74_IMG_0891.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b00ff6ef-c96c-417d-964a-3bcb165dd18b)
Once all the gasket material was removed with the razor blade, I used paper towels and brake cleaner to remove oil and coolant from the block.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/C3327CCA_4E96_46D6_A54A_379E2BC24544_IMG_0893.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/14c2e5ad-ccae-4302-b819-70fbface055d)
Then using my shop vac and angle grinder, with a Scott’s pad on it, I super cleaned the block where the head gets bolted.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/2FA2A9D5_5430_404D_A0E7_D647EA2883CF_IMG_0896.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8651ae91-42e8-4423-9a1c-0a2314c7ab8d)
I sucked up any material with the shop vac, took out the paper towels and wiped the area and cylinders with some oil to prevent rust while I wait for the new lifters to arrive. Don’t worry I’ll clean the oil off when it’s time to install the head gaskets.
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I then removed the lifters mounting plates, put the plates and bolts in order of how I removed them on my work bench. Removed each lifter with a magnet. Inspected each lifter roller and the cam where each lifter was. The rollers and cam looked almost new with minimal wear. Tossed the lifters in the garbage.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/DE33BA52_DFD2_485F_BECD_F33B24180998_IMG_0898.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/65cf45fa-ebbd-4068-8fdf-e7d09c0bc316)
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For the passenger head I used the same method to clean it as I did the block. Razor blade all gasket material off while using shop vac to get material. Cleaned with paper towel and brake cleaner. Used the angle grinder Scott’s medium grit pad as much as I could without jeopardizing losing Metal. I cleaned again with brake cleaner and paper towel. Used compressed air, brake clean and blew out all holes. Then cleaned the head surface again with paper towel and brake clean.
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Precups look great with no cracks.
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No cracks between valves... Yet...
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Checked to see if it was warped. Looked good to me.
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To clean the head bolt holes I used a 12x1.75 tap that fits perfect! After each hole I cleaned the tap and hole with brake clean. Thank the Lord I have a full respirator that blocks all fumes, gas and vapors.
I did 5 passes with the tap and cleaner with each hole.
Each time I inspected the tap and looked for metal. None!
Last time I used a thread chaser that did not seem to work very well and took many hours to get the holes clean.
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There are a lot of rumors about 6.2 and 6.5 head gaskets. I had to see for myself which one I thought would be the best option for a turbo application.
I went into O’Reilly auto parts and compared both head gaskets.
The top gasket is for a 84 6.2.
The bottom is for a 93 6.5.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/AFA969BF_9EFA_4927_8498_0B6F209524CE_IMG_0924.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6c840fa1-bba6-4177-8d28-f0673137c45c)
The cylinder holes on the 6.2 look uneven and not a perfect circle.
The cylinder holes on the 6.5 look like a perfect circle.
The 6.5 fire rings look stronger and a tad thicker.
The 6.5 seems to have more material between cylinders then the 6.2.
When flipped over, the 6.5 has more metal protection material then the 6.2.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/F7093E08_2F11_482D_AB04_5C71911AA398_IMG_0923.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/97ff6567-8f94-4e42-b334-18aa92f24530)
When putting them together to compare, all holes are exactly the same except the 6.5 has this small hole on the end where the 6.2 does not.
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Back at home I measured the cylinder holes of the old 6.2 head gasket and the new 6.5 head gasket. They both measured the same except the uneven part on the 6.2 cylinder ring was 1mm wider and the rest of the ring was the same.
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My choice in head gaskets for the 6.2 is plain as day. IMO the 6.5 head gasket is more superior.
If the banks turbo ever fails, you can not just call banks and get a replacement. They don’t make the turbos anymore, I have 2 other turbos I can replace it with if it fails. (GM5/Hx35w) So I am thinking of the future, potentially more boost with a bigger turbo if it comes to that.
Another rumor in regards to head gaskets I would like to put to rest once and for all.
The claim I have read dozens of times to use a .10 thickness head gasket to lower compression for more boost is IMO not a good idea and is false.
I base my judgement on the many build repairs I have read and personal experience.
The .10 thicker gasket has more material, which means that is more prone to blowing out from the added boost. Also I believe there is less surface pressure when torquing the .10 head gasket down.
That is why I choose to use a standard thickness head gasket.
More Power
10-09-2020, 11:27
The claim I have read dozens of times to use a .10 thickness head gasket to lower compression for more boost is IMO not a good idea and is false.
That should read 0.010" thicker (10 thousandths).
I recommend the thicker gaskets if the heads/block decks have been resurfaced, which most heads/block need at some point. For example, the 6.5 I have in the shop had its block decks resurfaced, taking 0.005" off the surfaces, so I have the Fel-Pro 0.010" thicker gaskets ready to go on. Piston crown clearance at TDC is pretty close on these engines, even when new.
That should read 0.010" thicker (10 thousandths).
I recommend the thicker gaskets if the heads/block decks have been resurfaced, which most heads/block need at some point. For example, the 6.5 I have in the shop had its block decks resurfaced, taking 0.005" off the surfaces, so I have the Fel-Pro 0.010" thicker gaskets ready to go on. Piston crown clearance at TDC is pretty close on these engines, even when new.
Thanks for chiming in! Love your advice and anyone else’s. I forgot to add that into my last post. For this build I am not resurfacing the heads. I agree that .010 would work great after getting the heads resurfaced.
In regards to the Arp head studs, what method did you use in your builds with the ARP studs?
I spent a lot of $$$ on the Arp studs and would like to try and reuse them again but this time with a different thread sealer.
More Power
10-09-2020, 13:16
In regards to the Arp head studs, what method did you use in your builds with the ARP studs?
I've not needed studs for any of my builds or those I've been involved with. Fel-Pro brand bolts are a lot cheaper and I believe work better, for most people.
We put nearly 300,000 miles on our 6.5TD Power Project - the majority of those miles involved towing. The truck also saw many runs on the dyno and spent quite a bit of time as a platform for testing various performance products (i.e. intercooler, water injection, exhaust systems, etc). They were not easy miles. There were no problems with head gaskets.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5191&stc=1&d=1602275118
I've not needed studs for any of my builds or those I've been involved with. Fel-Pro brand bolts are a lot cheaper and I believe work better, for most people.
We put nearly 300,000 miles on our 6.5TD Power Project - the majority of those miles involved towing. The truck also saw many runs on the dyno and spent quite a bit of time as a platform for testing various performance products (i.e. intercooler, water injection, exhaust systems, etc). They were not easy miles. There were no problems with head gaskets.
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5191&stc=1&d=1602275118
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Going above and beyond most, I probed the inside of the block with a magnet and picked up quite a bit of metal material. Mostly rust chunks.
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Bored and twitching from all the coffee, while waiting for the darn lifters to show up (Late shipping) I decided to pull out the ORD motor crossmember brace that has been sitting in my upgrade pile for 7 years.
Using brake cleaner and a rag, I wiped off all the years of dust and rust that it accumulated.
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Turning the shop fan on and opening the shop doors, I slapped on some PPE and got to spraying the sexy gloss black on the new crossmember.
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I will do three coats. Don’t know why I even paint stuff. It will rust away in a few years anyhow lol!
I took off the ORD motor mounts from both sides of the block to give me access to the motors drain plugs on the block.
After I am done doing both heads, I plan on draining the remaining nasty coolant from those plugs and flushing out the system.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/57D5DBBE_3900_43A2_AC79_8563AB44C0C9_IMG_0939.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/bbece9a9-be5f-4d67-a512-cf19e80e1990)
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The lifters finally arrived! I put all 16 lifters in a plastic container and poured 15w-40 oil into the container. I will let them sit for 24 hours to totally soak in the oil.
24 hours might be too excessive but it’s almost bed time and I have to work tomorrow. :-/
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Something worth mentioning. Last summer 2019 this motor was purchased from Boyce Equipmemt with said 23,000 k miles.
When I got the motor last summer I added a gear drive to keep the timing true.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/FC5FE0AE_FEAA_42A6_8EC9_0B5F7C0E17CB_FullSizeRende r.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/82d544cd-60a5-4a12-8bd4-6169d2fdad14)
A girdle to prevent cracks.
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A fluidamper which I believe is a absolute must have to prevent crank failure.
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Other things I did to this motor last summer:
Got the radiator refurbished with a new 4 core
Installed the ORD motor mounts
New G60s glow plugs
Refurbished oil pan
Refurbished Timing plate cover with crank seal
All new gaskets
New Lift Pump
New Valve Covers
Rear Main Seal
Added the Arp studs
New water pump
As you can see I have a lot of time and money vested in this motor. Reguardless of the problems it has a year later, I am not giving up on it until she is beyond repair.
On another note. When she dies, all her goodie upgrades and parts can be swapped over to another 6.2 or 6.5.
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Today is my Sons birthday! 13 years old! I will not do much today to the motor so I can spend some time with him.
What I did do is put the lifters in. I used brake cleaner and cleaned the bolts and used blue thread lock and tightened the bolts hand tight.
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Turning the crank in front of the motor to make sure they go up and down without getting stuck on the lifter plates.
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1 lifter was not going down after it went up. Simple adjustment of the plate fixed that problem.
Also one thing that is very important to address. Whenever the head gets taken off the block, the heads and block start to immediately rust. After 24 hours of exposure you will easily see light surface rust. It is always smart to get the head bolted to the block ASAP. Within 24hrs.
Since I am leaving the head off the block longer then 24 hours. I put some additional WD-40 on the deck and in the cylinders to help keep the rust down. I had already put oil on the cylinders but it did not work as well.
Here is some pictures of just a few days of exposure. The surface rust can be removed with a Scott’s pad which is what I will do when I am ready to put the head on.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/86830C92_E463_4AF1_9ECB_B895E4CE5F2C_IMG_1031.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7ce768fc-bed0-4820-aa19-6d5f7cb33b43)
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Today I refurbished the Arp studs. Then cleaned the rust out of the cylinders and got all the Wd-40 off the deck. It’s time!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/CEA8F8E2_D9A5_46B3_B66F_D2D829B5C208_IMG_1036(1).H EIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/e7903009-fac6-45c3-8ad2-a762bcbbbedd)
Using optimum black I coated the end of the studs and put them in hand tight.
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I took them back out, added more optimum black and put them back in hand tight.
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Cleaned up the excess with paper towel.
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And here they are:) Again...
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On with the head gasket. And head.
I put the Arp nuts and washers in a bag with 10w-40, mixed them up and put them on the studs. Using just the socket, I got the nuts hand tight and started my torque at 25, then 35,45,55,65,75,85,95,105 and the final 115. In sequence according to Arp. Yes I intentionally went to 115 foot pounds with motor oil since I do not have Molly lube.
In the morning I will check the torque and make sure they are all 115.
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I am so glad I checked the torque on the Arp studs this morning. It seems the gasket settled within just 8-10 hours that I was able to feel about 5 pounds of torque lost from the settlement of the head gasket.
Note: All final torquing needs to be done before the Optimum Black cure time expires.
Now I would like to talk A LOT about Cast Iron Rockers for the 6.2., failure points, how to correct failure points and my experience with them over the many years of running them on every 6.2 I had opened up.
Here is some info I had stored away that is useful.
“With the high compression ratio of the pre-chamber diesel, there is minimal valve-to-piston clearance. Because it is important to have a rigid valve train that insures a precise valve train motion through the speed range, a shaft supported valve rocker arm design is used. Nodular iron rocker arms with a steel backed bushing are used. The shafts are bolted to case stanchions on the cylinder head. The design has a steel backed bronze alloy bushing in the rocker arm which is final bored after being press fit into the cast arm. This bushing uses a performed circumferential oil groove and 2 cross oil grooves for directing lubrication to the mating shaft surface. Oil is supplied to the rocker arm via the hollow push rod and the arm in turn has drilled passages that provide a flow path for oil to the bushing.
The 1982 engine used a hardened steel spacer and a metric washer at the rocker shaft attachment. The 1983-84 engine uses an unhardened spacer and a steel cleat. The steel cleat has a large gap 90? to the bolt. This prevents any closure, and the cleat spreads the load”
“ROCKER ARM SHAFT INSTALLATION, 6.2L DIESEL
Rocker arm shafts may break if installed improperly. Uneven torquing causes stress at bolt holes.
The proper method to install rocker shafts is as follows:
1. Set engine balancer timing mark at TDC mark on engine.
2. Rotate engine 31/2 ? counter clockwise (measured on balancer) or to first lower water pump bolt (See Figure 2-9).
This procedure will position the engine so that no valves are close to a piston head. This is 30? BTDC.
3. Before installing bolts through shaft be certain that ring around shaft is installed with ? split? at bottom (See Figure 2-10) on 1982 models. On 1983 and later the split is 90? to the right. On 1985 and later no split ring is used.
4. Snug both bolts on each shaft.
5. Tighten bolts evenly to 55 N.m. (40 lb. ft.) torque.”
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/934853C0_437E_4F30_932A_5926842B29C0_IMG_1054.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/520002a7-6d20-410a-8324-d6e5b546c1d1)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/12FDD714_8F18_4EE4_8202_1E8C162F8267_IMG_1055.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f9104d18-f6e3-47b0-aab6-c1e683c45045)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/BDBA8EDD_A6D8_4113_BE4D_C296AD73EAE1_IMG_1056.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d892cb92-4d12-456e-90a6-d71ebf8d53ae)
More Power
10-12-2020, 10:59
Do you have our 6.2L/6.5L Diesel Troubleshooting & Repair Guide (https://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm)?
Have a look at the first two paragraphs in the above link.
Do you have our 6.2L/6.5L Diesel Troubleshooting & Repair Guide (https://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm)?
Have a look at the first two paragraphs in the above link.
Awe sweet! I was going to ask you how much for all your books? Any big bulk discounts? What is your take on the cast iron rockers?
Thanks to Steelsoldiers.com member Hawkman for selling me these beautiful cast iron rockers!!
Got off work and cleaned up the rockers with paint thinner and brake cleaner.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/9857C1DB_8A98_4F56_BC0B_B2A07A88DB4A_IMG_1059.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2a2c8e30-d706-4d2b-9ccd-1c41bd12b4d8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/F21C64CB_59F4_46BA_8413_AFA57DA7FECB_IMG_1061.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/722ded7e-bb32-4d15-9003-013b612ed8fb)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/2AC529F0_4641_4D23_9177_6EFEE5EBD244_IMG_1060.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6466f21d-7f40-4e62-8691-0880a4b9a7b5)
A Failure point on the cast iron rockers are the sharp edges around the arm. They have been known to crack and break. Prevention is to use a dremel and remove all sharp edges around the arm.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/4DA927BB_B11C_438F_BCB6_3CE9BE0877D9_IMG_1065.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3d2841e6-16d9-4bca-95c3-61b0e4af410a)
The retaining spring has been known to break. Prevention is do not over rev the motor and always monitor your oil levels and have a routine oil change. But when it goes, it goes! Buy a new one if they still make them?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/A474D125_EEAD_470A_BAEC_B5BC752D8362_IMG_1063.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4bd8d43c-a5f0-43e3-80e5-1aaa6a4fb609)
The cotter pin has been known to break. Prevention is not to over rev, pop the valve cover every 100k and replace it.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/71B9B772_BCF3_4059_AA6C_87B8A5E434C2_IMG_1064.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/cf2807c9-a312-4050-9786-9cf508b93edb)
It has been documented that the push rod will wear down the hole that the push rod goes into and make the push rod get stuck causing lifter failure and bent push rods. Prevention is to keep your oil clean and changed regularly to prevent unnecessary wear.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/413F42D7_98F8_4798_9249_C8878917F084_IMG_1062.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/40c535c6-f93a-48e5-b06e-e8062338646e)
The wear from the ends of the valves look great! No known failures.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/D4E0179D_EE1F_4E99_B6BB_26F9E4140214_IMG_1066.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/735e589e-96df-4299-9cae-ec5f5cc3d955)
In a nutshell...
I have had 1 set, yes 1 set of cast iron rockers in 3 different 6.2 diesel motors. 2 motors with 200+k miles and the 3rd recently rebuilt 2 years ago and has another 24,000k on them. In fact, just last week I saw the lucky bastard (Friend of mine) drive down the interstate at 70mph, smiled and waived. I have never had any failures on cast iron rockers!
I love them! I believe they fit tighter on the push rod, have less to ZERO side play and I believe they make the motor quieter because of less clatter.
The sets with the split cleats are the more superior cast iron rockers. The first versions have been known to crack.
Back at the farm...
I got the push rods in. Checked to make sure they were straight and on the lifters.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/BA8E65C4_7489_41A0_84C0_9C79C3883F0B_IMG_1069.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fb902d88-5447-40c2-9733-dff802a9c201)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/B74EC989_39CD_4C27_B8E7_3FA76DE9F5EA_IMG_1070.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/235cf3d0-43d0-4910-a045-6a6f69505931)
Then I did a little shake and bake with the rocker arms in a 1 gallon baggie and 15w-40 oil to lube them up.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/B3096AD3_C002_47ED_86EB_D1DF0FB5ADF8_IMG_1071.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ffa81e21-1234-4d1b-be80-911e8d2784f0)
Installed... Torqued them to 40 foot pounds with blue thread lock on the ends of the bolts.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/23088749_A81B_48D9_B39C_6AFE8E2BE7DD_IMG_1072.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/dc89a2a2-edd8-4208-a7a4-ada51ea60e41)
Cleaned off the valve covers old rtv and the blocks rtv with the angle grinder, wiped off the valve covers with some oil and paper towel, cleaned the threads on injectors and injector holes and added anti seize to injector threads. I installed the injectors at 50 foot pounds, glow plugs and sensor after putting thread tape on the sensor. Put cheap sandwich bags with rubber bands over the injectors to prevent stuff going in the ports while I work on the other side of the block.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/F06409FC_56A7_4B4E_BC9F_17BB24900DA8_IMG_1076.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a743346e-96d6-43db-ac0c-06811675242e)
More Power
10-13-2020, 11:13
Awe sweet! I was going to ask you how much for all your books? Any big bulk discounts? What is your take on the cast iron rockers?
We published an article concerning the cast-iron rocker assemblies years ago showing the consequences of excessive wear. And, we discussed how they are inferior to the newer stamped-steel versions... For example:
1- The cast-iron brass-bushed rockers eventually wear into the rocker shafts, producing excessive valve lash. I've seen several shafts that were worn to a point of weakening the shaft. This can happen <200k miles, where the stamped steel rockers appear like new for >500k.
2- The cast-iron rockers are heavy. Lighter components are the better option for the valve train - from both a wear and a performance standpoint. But, in budget builds, they can be cleaned and re-installed if there is no excessive wear.
Back in the early days... engine shops used to re-bush worn cast-iron rockers. All that went away when the newer stamped-steel versions became available and their superiority was recognized.
These pushrods use a different heat treatment on each end. They must be installed in the correct orientation, or excessive wear could result.
Book discount... I asked whether you had our Guide because of the money it could have saved you.
For example, the recommended Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that compensates for variations in thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax is produced using TTY head bolts. The Guide is filled with time-tested and proven methods/procedures and recommendations that has saved people a lot of money.
The combination of head studs and the 6.2 began as an attempt to help solve the early head gasket failures. The problem was head gasket design and the fact that GM used non-TTY head bolts. The arrival of the new Fel-Pro head gaskets and TTY bolts absolutely solved the problem... when installed correctly. Did you know that Fel-Pro makes a different head gasket for the 6.2 and for the 6.5? Guess who published the first article about using 6.5 gaskets on the 6.2?
arveetek
10-13-2020, 12:13
FWIW: my 6.5L with stamped-steel rockers has 368K miles on her, and as far as I can tell, The valve covers have never been off. I've owned the rig for the past 15 years and nearly 200K miles.
Casey
We published an article concerning the cast-iron rocker assemblies years ago showing the consequences of excessive wear. And, we discussed how they are inferior to the newer stamped-steel versions... For example:
1- The cast-iron brass-bushed rockers eventually wear into the rocker shafts, producing excessive valve lash. I've seen several shafts that were worn to a point of weakening the shaft. This can happen <200k miles, where the stamped steel rockers appear like new for >500k.
2- The cast-iron rockers are heavy. Lighter components are the better option for the valve train - from both a wear and a performance standpoint. But, in budget builds, they can be cleaned and re-installed if there is no excessive wear.
Back in the early days... engine shops used to re-bush worn cast-iron rockers. All that went away when the newer stamped-steel versions became available and their superiority was recognized.
These pushrods use a different heat treatment on each end. They must be installed in the correct orientation, or excessive wear could result.
Book discount... I asked whether you had our Guide because of the money it could have saved you.
For example, the recommended Fel-Pro head gaskets were engineered to work in conjunction with the Fel-Pro TTY (Torque-to-Yield) head bolts. These bolts provide for a somewhat elastic clamping load that compensates for variations in thermal expansion and the effects of time. Studs work great for a performance engine that is seeing extreme combustion pressures, but they aren't necessary for even a performance 6.5L turbo diesel. As a way of reinforcing that fact, we know that even the Duramax is produced using TTY head bolts. The Guide is filled with time-tested and proven methods/procedures and recommendations that has saved people a lot of money.
The combination of head studs and the 6.2 began as an attempt to help solve the early head gasket failures. The problem was head gasket design and the fact that GM used non-TTY head bolts. The arrival of the new Fel-Pro head gaskets and TTY bolts absolutely solved the problem... when installed correctly. Did you know that Fel-Pro makes a different head gasket for the 6.2 and for the 6.5? Guess who published the first article about using 6.5 gaskets on the 6.2?
Awesome! Thank you so much for that knowledge! Have you ever done a 18:1 build?
FWIW: my 6.5L with stamped-steel rockers has 368K miles on her, and as far as I can tell, The valve covers have never been off. I've owned the rig for the past 15 years and nearly 200K miles.
Casey
Woah! What year 6.5 do you have? What casting number is on your block?
More power, I don’t want to argue with you in public. Especially since you are more knowledgeable then I am. Your heeds of warning keeps coming to my mind.
You warned me about the Fuel pump mounted to the banks plate.
You warned me about the Arp studs.
You warned me about the rockers.
In regards to the fuel pump location, has there been any reported fires or issues caused by the lift pump being mounted to the banks plate?
In regards to the Arp studs, I had already bought them a long time ago so that money has already been spent and want to save money by attempting to use them again with optimum black. I’ve heard ultra gray is good too.
In regards to the cast iron rockers, I agree they have many failure points. However, the pressed rockers have had failures as well. Mostly from retaining clips breaking and I have read many times the rods have broken before and the arms cracking and breaking off. I’ve heard more negative with the pressed rockers then I have the cast iron ones. Perhaps it’s because the cast iron ones were not in production long enough to get as many reviews. But I assure you I have a set that has over 423,000 mile on them and no issues. It’s like the early 506 blocks. 90% of the time you see crappy ones with cracks, broken cranks, premature lifter failure. But every once in awhile you get a good seasoned 200k early 506 that has no cracks or major issues. Maybe I got lucky with these cast iron rockers like getting lucky with a 200k early 506 with no cracks.
I do very much appreciate all your free advice and I always take note of it and try to decide for myself what demons I want to deal with down the road. Please keep sharing your info. It helps me more then you know!
Yes I will be buying your 6.2 books. In fact I’ll buy them right now! I would love to read what you have to say! ;-)
More Power
10-14-2020, 10:58
Awesome! Thank you so much for that knowledge! Have you ever done a 18:1 build?
I was the first - for on-road use. Peninsular Diesel, a marine 6.2/6.5 engine builder in Michigan, developed the 18:1 pistons for their marine engines. They contacted me in 1997 - looking to expand their market, and with their cooperation I assembled an engine for use in a pickup truck. A full series of articles appeared here in The Diesel Page in 1999 resulting from that experience, and the world was first introduced to an on-road 18:1 6.5L Turbodiesel performance engine - using marine pistons matched with a high-output marine DB2 fuel injection system. You can read an introduction article here:
https://www.thedieselpage.com/finale.htm
I personally assembled that engine using Fel-Pro head gaskets, Fel-Pro TTY head bolts, stamped-steel OE rocker arms, port-matched heads, and a competition level balanced rotating assembly. In addition, we introduced the world to using the 1997+ 130-gpm factory water pump and dual thermostats on a pre-1997 engine along with a prototype 21" Duramax engine-driven fan.
Before that... I installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo system on the first GM diesel I owned - a 1982 GMC K1500. My experience with re-installing the original mechanical fuel lift pump caused me to recommend a better solution. You'll see just how close the exhaust crossover is to the fuel pump and its fuel lines when you get the system installed. I haven't heard of any fires, but any reasonable person would at least consider the possibility when they see just how tight everything is... knowing the crossover pipe could get hot enough to glow.
No arguments here... I simply want you to have the best chance at success. We've always been here to help people and improve their satisfaction with these engines.
arveetek
10-14-2020, 12:01
Woah! What year 6.5 do you have? What casting number is on your block?
1995. I don't know the casting number. Never had a need to look! :D I have never had the valve covers or heads off; I believe the injectors are original. No major failures... just your typical maintenance items: several PMD's, three injection pumps; replaced timing chain and balancer for good measure before a long trip two years ago; upgraded cooling system; several lift pumps; etc.
I bought the Tahoe from essentially the original owner. Being a Tahoe, it has had a relatively easy life for a 6.5L. I do tow my 21' camper several times a year, but for the most part, she's just a people mover. I think most 6.5L's in HD pickups and such are pushed to their limits a lot of the time and that is why they don't last as long.
I wouldn't hesitate to take my high-mileage 6.5L on a cross-country trip at this very moment.
Casey
I was the first - for on-road use. Peninsular Diesel, a marine 6.2/6.5 engine builder in Michigan, developed the 18:1 pistons for their marine engines. They contacted me in 1997 - looking to expand their market, and with their cooperation I assembled an engine for use in a pickup truck. A full series of articles appeared here in The Diesel Page in 1999 resulting from that experience, and the world was first introduced to an on-road 18:1 6.5L Turbodiesel performance engine - using marine pistons matched with a high-output marine DB2 fuel injection system. You can read an introduction article here:
https://www.thedieselpage.com/finale.htm
I personally assembled that engine using Fel-Pro head gaskets, Fel-Pro TTY head bolts, stamped-steel OE rocker arms, port-matched heads, and a competition level balanced rotating assembly. In addition, we introduced the world to using the 1997+ 130-gpm factory water pump and dual thermostats on a pre-1997 engine along with a prototype 21" Duramax engine-driven fan.
Before that... I installed a Banks Sidewinder turbo system on the first GM diesel I owned - a 1982 GMC K1500. My experience with re-installing the original mechanical fuel lift pump caused me to recommend a better solution. You'll see just how close the exhaust crossover is to the fuel pump and its fuel lines when you get the system installed. I haven't heard of any fires, but any reasonable person would at least consider the possibility when they see just how tight everything is... knowing the crossover pipe could get hot enough to glow.
No arguments here... I simply want you to have the best chance at success. We've always been here to help people and improve their satisfaction with these engines.
I will swap the rockers back to pressed. Better to be safe then sorry. I also plan on doing the cooling system upgrade. I have all the parts for it already.
You mentioned via PM that I should use the HX35W on this old high compression motor. Why would that be better compared to the Sidewinder turbo? Knowing that this high compression motor should not see more the 10 psi of boost? Is it the back pressure and better spooling?
More Power
10-14-2020, 13:16
I will swap the rockers back to pressed. Better to be safe then sorry. I also plan on doing the cooling system upgrade. I have all the parts for it already.
You mentioned via PM that I should use the HX35W on this old high compression motor. Why would that be better compared to the Sidewinder turbo? Knowing that this high compression motor should not see more the 10 psi of boost? Is it the back pressure and better spooling?
If you already have the Banks turbo, I'd use it. I wasn't sure if you had the kit yet or not. The Banks turbo is non-wastegated, and is somewhat slow to spool (create boost pressure). During a normal cruise of 65-mph in the 3.42 geared 6.2L GMC I owned, I saw practically no boost pressure. When you "get on it", boost responded to more fuel and engine RPM to produce up to about 10-psi boost pressure.
Like most, who installed a turbo on the 6.2, I was hoping to "see it work" a little more. As a consequence of writing for the magazines, I had an opportunity to speak directly... in person, with Gale Banks himself. I asked about the normal boost response of the Sidewinder. He calmly told me "you'll have the boost pressure when you need it." He was right of course, in that towing or accelerating will produce the boost pressure and power increase we all look for.
But.... the Holset HX35W will bolt onto the manifold, has the correct orientation for the exhaust outlet and it will give you a wastegated turbocharger. It would respond to throttle a little sooner, and allow for an earlier power delivery when driven lightly, while having the compressor map and low back-pressure that works for power. I've not tried one, but that's just what I'd do... Again, if you already have the Banks turbo, I'd use it. You can experiment later on if you run out of things to do.
Cast-iron rockers on the 6.2... If I had a nice set, I'd be inclined re-use them. On the other hand, if I were rebuilding an engine and the original cast-iron rockers were bad, I'd not think twice about replacing them with the newer stamped-steel versions. The books you're getting will show you what a bad set looks like.
If you already have the Banks turbo, I'd use it. I wasn't sure if you had the kit yet or not. The Banks turbo is non-wastegated, and is somewhat slow to spool (create boost pressure). During a normal cruise of 65-mph in the 3.42 geared 6.2L GMC I owned, I saw practically no boost pressure. When you "get on it", boost responded to more fuel and engine RPM to produce up to about 10-psi boost pressure.
Like most, who installed a turbo on the 6.2, I was hoping to "see it work" a little more. As a consequence of writing for the magazines, I had an opportunity to speak directly... in person, with Gale Banks himself. I asked about the normal boost response of the Sidewinder. He calmly told me "you'll have the boost pressure when you need it." He was right of course, in that towing or accelerating will produce the boost pressure and power increase we all look for.
But.... the Holset HX35W will bolt onto the manifold, has the correct orientation for the exhaust outlet and it will give you a wastegated turbocharger. It would respond to throttle a little sooner, and allow for an earlier power delivery when driven lightly, while having the compressor map and low back-pressure that works for power. I've not tried one, but that's just what I'd do... Again, if you already have the Banks turbo, I'd use it. You can experiment later on if you run out of things to do.
Cast-iron rockers on the 6.2... If I had a nice set, I'd be inclined re-use them. On the other hand, if I were rebuilding an engine and the original cast-iron rockers were bad, I'd not think twice about replacing them with the newer stamped-steel versions. The books you're getting will show you what a bad set looks like.
I do have a full banks kit except their 3” exhaust which does not matter because I already have upgraded my exhaust to 3” stainless with flow master mufflers I can tap into. Also have the Hx35w as well. Along with a complete running 95 6.5 motor with a GM5 turbo, another 6.2 J code with low miles. My options are great!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1159.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8adbf598-bc09-4816-b9b1-4a2954de878b)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1156.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/424f5d4e-897b-40bb-aa7d-7df9ecaaf453)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1157.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4f83e8f0-116c-4088-a3c5-d53d1737d594)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1160.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/812d60ba-db3b-4d44-a79a-ef2ac233344e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1158.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b5793b9c-dfdf-4ceb-9968-6d02295d9fcf)
After work today I opened up the Driver side of the motor. I got the valve covers off, rockers, push rods, Arp nuts and bolts and the head.
I identified 2 Arp studs that where leaking from the threads.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1162.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7e1f5bef-2089-4bd3-afb1-0f0f0de47a87)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1163.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/250e4e59-3b32-4b2e-bfa4-5b3fdcbcfd6e)
Also one of the freeze plugs has a small leak.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1164.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d4091dad-9322-4cc9-b450-8057f608ff35)
The head gasket looks great! It was a pita to get off because of that copper spray bonding it tighter.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1175.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/320ea1c5-fe23-44da-9b93-054b1f511e91)
Looking at the head, you can see the discoloration where the cylinders go with the head. The areas where there is lack of carbon buildup shows me which valves were not opening and closing properly from the lifters that had failed.
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Cylinder 2 shows some whiteish brownish build up. Not really sure what would cause that? The coolant in the cylinder is from me removing the head with coolant still in the head.
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Cylinder 8 has some of that same build up. I did have the timing advanced quite a bit on the injection pump. Could be over fueling?
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I refurbished the Arp studs at the big shop. I’m there a lot... It’s my other home...
Using the wire wheel, paint thinner tank with brushing action and soaking them in the kitchen sink with soap. This house is clean!
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More Power
10-15-2020, 13:10
I've not experienced coolant leaks past a head bolt when using the GM recommended Teflon paste on the threads of all head bolts (as shown in the Troublshooting & Repair Guide). This is a non-hardening sealant, and I've wondered about this type of bolt thread sealant actually keeping a seal, but after all the miles we've put on a 6.2/6.5 through the years and have performed a number of oil analyses, I've yet to see any coolant in the oil.
One thing I always do when installing new head gaskets is to chase all of the bolt threads in the block deck and the bolt threads of the new Fel-Pro head bolts using the correct 12mm tap/die (as shown in the Troubleshooting & Repair Guide). That might be a factor in being leak-free.
After a good flush, these engines and cooling systems can benefit from the orange/pink colored Dex-Cool coolant. This coolant doesn't deteriorate, it doesn't contribute to gasket deterioration, and it doesn't corrode any type of metal used in these cooling systems. I switched to Dex-Cool in 1999 for my own 6.5 - the 6.5TD Power Project. Dex-Cool is a lifetime coolant... although, GM recommends a coolant service after 5 years or 150,000 miles, but I've seen Dex-Cool and the insides of the cooling systems after having been in continuous service for 20 years... It all looks like new.
The following link contains photos of the inside of an aluminum water pump (from a Duramax) that ran its original fill Dex-Cool for 18 years without a flush. There's also a discussion about Dex in this piece.
https://www.thedieselpage.com/duramax/duramaxwaterpump.htm
Jim
I've not experienced coolant leaks past a head bolt when using the GM recommended Teflon paste on the threads of all head bolts (as shown in the Troublshooting & Repair Guide). This is a non-hardening sealant, and I've wondered about this type of bolt thread sealant actually keeping a seal, but after all the miles we've put on a 6.2/6.5 through the years and have performed a number of oil analyses, I've yet to see any coolant in the oil.
One thing I always do when installing new head gaskets is to chase all of the bolt threads in the block deck and the bolt threads of the new Fel-Pro head bolts using the correct 12mm tap/die (as shown in the Troubleshooting & Repair Guide). That might be a factor in being leak-free.
After a good flush, these engines and cooling systems can benefit from the orange/pink colored Dex-Cool coolant. It doesn't deteriorate, it doesn't contribute to gasket deterioration, and it doesn't corrode any type of metal used in these cooling systems. I switched to Dex-Cool in 1999 for my own 6.5 - the 6.5TD Power Project. Dex-Cool is a lifetime coolant... although, GM recommends a coolant service after 5 years or 150,000 miles, but I've seen Dex-Cool and the insides of the cooling systems after having been in continuous service for 20 years... It all looks like new.
Ok sweet! That is some great advice! I can’t wait to read your books! The dex-cool sounds like a better coolant for sure!
Today I decided to spend 1/2 the day being lazy and went to the hot springs with the family to relax. The other 1/2 of the day was spent taking off the driver side head and cleaning it up along with the deck.
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I got the new lifters in and chased all the head bolt holes with the tap. Did at least 5 passes and each pass I cleaned each hole with brake cleaner. I also cleaned out the cylinders like I did the passenger side and got them wiped with a small amount of WD-40. Before and after pics...
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I then installed the refurbished Arp studs and used the Optimum Black.
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Afterward cleaned the deck and head again with brake clean and then installed the 6.5 head gasket and head. I soaked the washers and nuts in 10w-40 like I did for the Passenger side and used just the socket to get them hand tight on the studs. Then I torqued them starting at 25 foot pounds, then 35,45,55,65,75,85,95,105 and final 115.
Will let the gasket settle over night and torque it one last time to 115 pounds in the morning before the Optimum black cure time expires.
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Driver side all buttoned up!
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Addressing the leaking freeze plug, I drilled a hole into the freeze plug, let it drain and then flushed out the coolant with my hose until there was no more green coolant coming out.
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After the coolant was drained, I used a flathead and hammer on one side of the plug and pounded the side of the plug in so it turned. Once it was turned I used my rat tooth vice grips and pulled the plug out.
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More Power
10-16-2020, 13:16
Just an educated guess... the RTV sealant on the softplug is why it leaked. That's not the recommended sealant.
Next I flushed out the other side of the motor with the hose and letting it drain out of the water pump.
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After the whole motor was flushed and drained of all that nastiness, I cleaned the freeze plug hole first with a wire wheel, then Scott’s pad and with brake cleaner.
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Then I cleaned the freeze plug with brake cleaner, put RTV on and pounded it in with my 24mm socket and hammer. Then cleaned off the excess.
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Just an educated guess... the RTV sealant on the softplug is why it leaked. That's not the recommended sealant.
Last winter I accidentally pounded the freeze plug all the way into the motor while putting in a block heater. I could not get it out. I had to pop the other plug next to it to get it out. I was in a hurry and reused the old plug which was pretty bad. It actually held up good. Just a very small drip every once and awhile.
Next I wire wheeled the driver side exhaust ports on the motor and cleaned it with brake cleaner.
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Using the copper spray a gasket, I sprayed the motors exhaust ports 1 coat.
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To save time and money, I refurbished each exhaust manifold bolt with the wire wheel. Then I added anti seize on each end of the bolts.
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Then I wire wheeled the driver exhaust manifold, cleaned with brake clean and sprayed 2 coats of the copper gasket maker on it.
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To install the driver manifold, I put the correct bolts in just the very ends of the manifold and carefully tightened the bolts by hand without letting the manifold touch the block. Then I installed the rest of the bolts by hand leaving the gap between the head and block.
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Starting with the two center bolts I tightened them by hand with my socket until the manifold touched the block. Then I tightened each bolt from center to outward to get an even press. Then I torqued the manifold bolts to 30 foot pounds instead of 18-26 because I added a lot of anti seize.
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DmaxMaverick
10-16-2020, 14:50
...Then I torqued the manifold bolts to 30 foot pounds instead of 18-26 because I added a lot of anti seize.
I'm curious to know your reasoning for this. With very few exceptions, torque specs assume dry threads. Adding a lubricant to any friction surface (threads, bolt heads or nut faces), such as anti-seize compound, increases the fastener stress and clamping force significantly for the same torque value. I don't know that 30 ft/lb on a lubed exhaust manifold bolt would cause it to yield, but it might. This doesn't take into consideration thermal stresses, so it may be more or less of an issue.
I'm curious to know your reasoning for this. With very few exceptions, torque specs assume dry threads. Adding a lubricant to any friction surface (threads, bolt heads or nut faces), such as anti-seize compound, increases the fastener stress and clamping force significantly for the same torque value. I don't know that 30 ft/lb on a lubed exhaust manifold bolt would cause it to yield, but it might. This doesn't take into consideration thermal stresses, so it may be more or less of an issue.
Thanks for the question!
There are a few reasons why I did 30ft pounds on the manifold bolts.
1. According to the install instructions from banks, they say to put anti-seize on the threads and torque to 25 foot pounds. See picture below... That 25 foot pounds is for a said 5-10 psi turbo. I figured the additional 5 pounds would not hurt especially since I am still up in the air on which turbo to use. I Might want to slap on the HX35W for the consistent power, lower egts, less lag, etc... Still debating in my head...
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2. Also Using the Copper spray I believe adds cooshin between the block and manifold. Going a tad tighter made sense to reduce risk of a blow out with the copper spray.
3. I used the copper spray because of all the corrosion and pits on both the manifolds and head. With that being said, with all the corrosion and pits create less surface pressure increasing even more of a chance for a blow out. By adding the copper spray and going a little bit tighter it reduces that lack of surface pressure. See Corrosion pics below...
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4. Another factor, as I was putting the bolts threw the manifold holes, some dirt got on the threads causing more friction when torquing.
I was going to explain in the next post as I just finished the passenger side manifold just as you posted your question.
Also to me, it felt better. 18-25 felt too loose imo.
Before installing the passenger side Banks Manifold, I cleaned the pyro probe hole threads with a wire brush and then sprayed it out with brake clean. After cleaning you can see a lot of the threading is deteriorated from corrosion, excessive overheating and over boosting from the previous owner.
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I refurbished every bolt and put anti seize on the ends.
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Next I wire wheeled the manifold, blew it out with compressed air and then cleaned it with brake cleaner on a paper towel. Added 2 coats of the copper spray on the manifold.
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Then I wire wheeled the exhaust ports and bolt holes, cleaned them with brake clean and added 1 coat of the copper spray.
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Using my same method to install the manifold on the driver side, I got the banks manifold on. Mind the gap:-)
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More Power on the diesel page forums mentioned how close the manifold is to the mechanical fuel pump. I can imagine the crossover pipe would be just as close. It would be a lot of heat in that area. I’ll do a mock up with the crossover tomorrow.
I really like mechanical things. You never know when the zombie apocalypse will happen. Or a EMP...
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For ****s and giggles I mocked up the HX35W on the Banks Manifold.
Woah, this sucker is freaking huge compared to the 6.2!
I wish I could have this baby on her but I don’t feel comfortable putting it on a 36 year old motor with such high compression. I guess I could turn the waste gate down but I honestly don’t want to get the boost bug.. lol
When I get excited thinking about the hx35w, read what banks has to say...
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Yukon6.2
10-17-2020, 09:23
Next I flushed out the other side of the motor with the hose and letting it drain out of the water pump.
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After the whole motor was flushed and drained of all that nastiness, I cleaned the freeze plug hole first with a wire wheel, then Scott’s pad and with brake cleaner.
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Then I cleaned the freeze plug with brake cleaner, put RTV on and pounded it in with my 24mm socket and hammer. Then cleaned off the excess.
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It looks like you have shares in the RTV company...
If you use it you really should cut down the amount you use all that excess will come loose and plug up your rad or pickup screen for your oil pump.Just a thin smear to coat stuff,unless you are using it to make a gasket like the valve covers or oil pan.
I have pulled a lot of oil screens with silicon tendrils plugging off the screen.
It looks like you have shares in the RTV company...
If you use it you really should cut down the amount you use all that excess will come loose and plug up your rad or pickup screen for your oil pump.Just a thin smear to coat stuff,unless you are using it to make a gasket like the valve covers or oil pan.
I have pulled a lot of oil screens with silicon tendrils plugging off the screen.
Thanks for the advice!
Today after work I went to a friends house and made a deal. In return, he gave me most of his serpentine pulleys, the tensioner, dual thermostat water cross over, 6.5 timing plate and 6.5 alternator.
Got home and started cleaning up the Banks turbo. First I wire wheeled all the rust from the exhaust flanges.
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Then for the oil drain I cleaned it with brake cleaner, wire brushed it and cleaned again with brake cleaner.
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Then I wire wheeled the oil drain tube and cleaned it with brake cleaner. To try an experiment I added 3 coats of copper spray on the end of the oil drain and then connected it to the turbo.
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Next I put copper spray on the exhaust flanges.
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I got desperate and I took a step to the auto parts store and picked up 4 grade 8 bolts for the flange because the old bolts were bent.
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Then I installed the turbo and the oil drain hose.
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Off with the water pump and plate! Wire wheeled the block where the water pump plate went. Don’t forget the holes!
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Using the angle grinder, I refurbished the 6.5 water pump plate. It was bad and a lot of work!
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Comparing the 6.2 water pump plate to the 6.5 water pump plate. The bolt hole pattern is exactly the same just in reverse. I feel kinda bad for the 6.2 water pump because it’s less then 1 year old. Maybe I can sell it or use it for the spare 6.2 motor I have. Hmm..
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Also the reason why I wear a full respirator is because there is a lot of harmful chemicals I am dealing with.
Aluminum Oxide
Brake Cleaner fumes
Rtv fumes
Asbestos from old gaskets
Dirt
Rust
Spray paint fumes
Copper Spray fumes
Diesel Fuel fumes is harmful as well
I imagine coolant fumes is bad too
Fibers in the air from the Grinder disks
A full respirator with organic filters are a MUST HAVE! It’s about time to replace my filters. I strongly encourage anyone doing this kind of work on their motor to wear one!
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Can anyone help me figure out how to run the dual alternators with serpentine belt without A/C and without the vacuum pump? Anyone got a link or some pictures of that kind of a set up?
Just got the books in the mail! Great and thick too! I wish I had these 10 years ago! Thank you!
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Right now, I am waiting for the experimental water pump to show up. While I am waiting, I decided today to go back to the Fuel Injection Pump woes...
First off, after more research I come to find from The Diesel Page books the badger diesels injection pump I bought was actually for a 92 6.2 diesel. It was tuned and calibrated for the 92. The posting was for all 6.2 diesels but learning now that not all 6.2 injection pumps are the same. There are certain pumps made for certain years and model motor. Badger diesel should have known better before selling their pumps as an all general use.
Awe well... So looking at the original J code injection pump that came with this motor, low miles, but weather worn because there was no hood on the donor.
I was able to remove the bolt that corroded and broke. I used my torch to heat up the aluminum to help separate the threads from heat expansion. Since I have many spare injection pumps, I pulled the oldest and crappest one out of one of my 6.2 spare part boxes.
Taking off the good parts I needed, I then took off the cap on the good injection pump, throttle position sensor, rocker arm and throttle shaft.
The goal is to replace the old rubber O-rings on the throttle shaft to prevent the very common fuel leak from that area, replace the broken bolt and lever. But darn it! The parts store is closed! Lol!
more pics on next post...
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Pics continued...
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Yukon6.2
10-19-2020, 09:47
Also the reason why I wear a full respirator is because there is a lot of harmful chemicals I am dealing with.
Aluminum Oxide
Brake Cleaner fumes
Rtv fumes
Asbestos from old gaskets
Dirt
Rust
Spray paint fumes
Copper Spray fumes
Diesel Fuel fumes is harmful as well
I imagine coolant fumes is bad too
Fibers in the air from the Grinder disks
A full respirator with organic filters are a MUST HAVE! It’s about time to replace my filters. I strongly encourage anyone doing this kind of work on their motor to wear one!
Good to see you concerned about your health...
You should see if you can convince your helper to quit smoking,there has been a lot of butt's in your pictures
Good to see you concerned about your health...
You should see if you can convince your helper to quit smoking,there has been a lot of butt's in your pictures
Well I’m glad you are not commenting about how bad of a job I am doing on the motor! Lol! I’ve been telling myself to quit smoking for 21 years now. I got the coronavirus this February and it was horrible! I figure I might as well try to prevent further damage with the respirator. Maybe I’ll live longer then my father whom died at age 53 from brain cancer because of the 30 years as a painter and breathing fumes that whole time. He was not a smoker. My grandma who smoked 3 packs a day lived to 80 years of age. All things in moderation I guess... Cell phones, microwaves, radio waves, TVs, plastics, stick free pans, Pick your poison...
Since we are in this topic, I changed my filters today and cleaned my mask. Check out how bad they got in a short time period!
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I finished doing the throttle shaft O-Rings and put the injection pump back together.
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Cleaned up the injection pump mounting locations with brake cleaner and a paper towel. Got the new injection pump gasket on.
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I installed the ip and refurbished the 3 gear bolts, added blue lock tight and torqued to 20 foot pounds
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Then installed the three nuts mounting the ip to the timing plate and made sure the 2 timing marks are perfect.
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Then I cleaned up the rear coolant plate covers with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Then refurbished the bolts and reinstalled the plates with the bolts in their correct locations. Making sure the longer grounding bolt has a very generous amount of lock tight on it.
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I don’t like to waste and spend much money if I can. I squeezed every last bit of rtv from the tube that had hardened on the end and got the job done!
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Here are some torque specifications for most all 6.2 diesels. I had found this years ago and kept it in my records. Hope this helps.
6.2 torque specs
ALL in ft lbs unless otherwise mentioned.
Bellhousing - 30
Cam Gear - 75
Cam Thrush Plate - 17
Connecting Rod nuts - 48
Crankshaft Pulley - 30
Cylinder Head (3 steps) 20 / 50 / +90 degrees
Engine Mount to Block - 75
Engine Mount to Frame - 50
Exhaust Manifold - 26
Flywheel bolts - 65
Front cover bolts - 33
Glow Plugs - 156 in/pd use anti-seize
Harmonic Balancer - 200
Injector Lines - 19
Injector Nozzle - 50
Injector pump Retaining nut - 30
Injector Pump Gear bolt - 20
Injector Pump Baffle bolt - 33
Intake Manifold - 31
Lifter Guideplate - 18
Main Bearing caps inner 110 / outer 100
Oil Cooler Line to Filter - 12
Oil Cooler to Rad -25
Oil Pump Drive bolt - 31
Oil Pump Retaining bolt - 65
Oil Pan Plug - 20
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts 38-40 ft-lbs (use loc-tite)
Pulley to Damper - 20
Rocker Arm Cover - 16
Rocker Arm Shaft - 40
Starter Bolts - 35
Thermostat Housing - 35
Turbocharger to Manifold - 37
Vibration Damper - 200
Water Crossover to Head - 31
Water Pump to Cover - 31
Water Pump Plate to Pump - 16
Vacuum Pump Retaining nut - 31
Valve Covers - 16
Oil Pan bolts - inch lbs
rear 2, 84
others 204
Body Mounts - Bolts - 55, Nuts 35
I really want the dual thermostat coolant cross over. I did a mock up and it’s hitting the throttle cable plate. I am going to tackle this problem and will post lots of pictures for you all since it is not a common upgrade for the 6.2.
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a5150nut
10-20-2020, 06:30
I believe there was an article or several posts about mods needed to get the duel thermostats to work with the mechanical linkage. Might try a search for that.
Yukon6.2
10-20-2020, 09:08
Well I’m glad you are not commenting about how bad of a job I am doing on the motor! Lol! I’ve been telling myself to quit smoking for 21 years now. I got the coronavirus this February and it was horrible! I figure I might as well try to prevent further damage with the respirator. Maybe I’ll live longer then my father whom died at age 53 from brain cancer because of the 30 years as a painter and breathing fumes that whole time. He was not a smoker. My grandma who smoked 3 packs a day lived to 80 years of age. All things in moderation I guess... Cell phones, microwaves, radio waves, TVs, plastics, stick free pans, Pick your poison...
You are showing a lot of pic's and doing a good job on the motor so that is great
I was a pack a day smoker since i was a teen,i quite once my daughter was born.I didn't want to be a bad influence on her.I quit drinking around the same time.I decided that it didn't make sense to pay some faceless company good money to slowly kill me.
Plus our daughter is a bright girl and we managed to put away enough money for her to have a University education of her choice.A lot of hard decisions were made over 20 years but worth it. She is in her 3rd year and has been averaging A- grades.I am so proud of her for choosing a path and excelling in it.
Unfortunately for me she chose sides in the divorce and i haven't heard from her in 17 months.
But i live in hope that one day i will get a call that starts"Dad... "
Yukon6.2
10-20-2020, 09:13
Want a picture of what i did for the throttle and dual t stat setup?
You will have to cut the outlet housing and have it re welded to make it work.
I did a mechanical conversion on a 98 and had to build a special throttle plate/holder on that one too,but the outlet housing didn't get altered on the 98.
Want a picture of what i did for the throttle and dual t stat setup?
You will have to cut the outlet housing and have it re welded to make it work.
I did a mechanical conversion on a 98 and had to build a special throttle plate/holder on that one too,but the outlet housing didn't get altered on the 98.
Sorry to hear about your daughter... I have some crappy story’s too we can talk about over a beer or coffee!
Yes please share!
I believe there was an article or several posts about mods needed to get the duel thermostats to work with the mechanical linkage. Might try a search for that.
I found a couple but pictures and info are limited.
So, today I am taking a few steps back. I decided to remove the injection pump and timing plate because when I removed the water pump plate, there is a chance that I disturbed the timing plate gasket which would cause a coolant leak.
I am glad I removed the timing plate because I can see that an oil leak started from the lower part of the pan and timing cover. Also the crank shaft timing plate seal was leaking as well.
I will refurbish the nuts and bolts this weekend and clean off all the gaskets. My goal is reinstall everything in the same day before the RTV cure time expires. Plus I am waiting on the water pump to arrive which gives me time to go threw all the little things. I will tap and clean all the bolt holes as well.
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In an earlier post I had mentioned that I would show you all the gaskets that had the Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket on them.
I had also mentioned that I assumed it would clog all the holes on the gaskets before I inspected them.
I was wrong! The copper spray worked like a charm! No holes on the gaskets got closed like they would if I ran stop leak, which has happened before...
My official review on this product is 5 stars out of 5!
Because of my increased fuel timing and failing Arp studs I overheated at 90 degrees ambient outside air temperature. My coolant temperature got to 220 degrees.
The heads and block had no cracks after that excessive short period of overheating.
And that is what this product is meant for! It seals and improves heat transfer.
I recommend this product on all head gaskets! Especially when using the TTY head bolts because I had head gasket fitment issues both times I used the Arp studs making it almost impossible to not mess up the head gaskets fresh coat of copper spray.
The simple FACT that I had to use a chisel to pry off the heads is proof that this product seals like superglue reducing chances of head gasket failure.
Just be careful when you use it! This product is toxic!
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1652.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3c72a794-0c4b-41ca-a8b1-09497ca002e6)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1655.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/486ce67e-32e2-4458-8615-d5cecd3fb465)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1656.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/76c57dfe-483e-409d-bc54-c11e2af481c7)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1657.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b0a38ce9-dea1-44a4-9104-ef935ac94ada)
Omg! When I read back to myself what I wrote, it sounds like I’m doing a commercial! Lol!
I love it when I call up all these different venders and they all talk crap about each other and their products.
I personally have no preference whom I deal with. I only care about cost and performance and if the product will suit my needs.
I am just sayin...
I don’t mind blowing a little cash to try a product out but if it fails, I am not afraid to complain a lot!
Now I would like to talk about Beer! My personal preference is a nicely fresh brewed Scottish Ale from the Bar 3 Brewery here in good old Belgrade Montana!
But since I bought this cheap stuff for a family bbq months ago, I guess I better drink it! LOL! It will save you money!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1662.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2c68942b-1f5a-408e-b4c4-ddd9d32408c4)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1663.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8ea21e88-b616-496f-b9dd-29a6c5e82ef6)
How about the stock 6.2 crank pulley? Wtf was gm thinking when they designed it! Years of corrosion will soften its metal and make it bend and it will wobble causing the harmonics to go out of wack! Fluidamper or not! It’s a broken crank I see in the future! This inside valley on the crank pulley collects soooooo much dirt, mud, rocks and oil that is not good!
I hopefully see an aluminum crank pulley in the near future. It makes sense!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1660.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ee725df1-99b3-46f4-81c4-ad91dd818aba)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1661.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b5dcc88d-8e47-422a-b547-99bc3144c46e)
Not even gonna comment on the OEM 6.5 crank pulley.
IMO some guys insist that OEM is better! I have to disagree in some instances. Technology is constantly getting better to improve our lives! Why fear it? I say utilize it and live better!
It’s getting cold out and I am too lazy to clean the wood stove chimney in the shop so I fired up the old kerosine heater.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1786.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d67c8b6a-3bef-4538-aaa1-e2b99edae082)
To clean up the old gasket material from the timing plate block side, I used my razor blade and scraped all big pieces of the old gasket off without scratching the surface. Next I used a 120 grit Roloc disk. It felt more like 200 grit. Before doing any work on it, I put a paper towel down and shaped it like a bowl so it would collect any debris preventing chunks falling into the oil pan.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1784.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b3ef0e2a-7b77-49f2-afdb-92959d35fc0b)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1787.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/312dcba4-5f5c-4198-bbbe-a6e04584d63a)
I used the scotch pad to clean areas that the roloc disk was not able to get to.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1788.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3577e9e5-68c2-47ab-913e-6b18eaabf0d9)
With the small wire wheel I cleaned every hole until all material was out of the threads. Taking note of which holes went all the way threw to the coolant ports.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1789.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a02d51f5-9816-431f-a1b9-870013f14b9e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1790.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2be284f2-486b-4fb0-84b2-8c8a3a579f08)
Using the shop vac and bigger wire brush, I then cleaned the excessive gasket material from the coolant holes.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1791.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5627cf0c-5f7d-4fb4-ab8e-567cdeb9f7ad)
Then wiped away all oils, dirt and material with a paper towel soaked in brake cleaner.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1792.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a2af6fef-e33f-4982-bdc0-253e52784d5d)
Taking note of the bent oil pan so I will use extra rtv in that area. I could bend it back but the vibrations might unseat some areas of oil pan and cause more leaks.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1794.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ab5ddb84-90f3-4a47-bf39-5fa786d71791)
Making sure the crank key is not damaged.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1795.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7557c607-6fc2-4749-840c-a47c81e5ade9)
Checking the fluidamper adapter.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1796.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/82082804-64f5-4eff-85e8-b8cd41f711aa)
Checking the gear drive to make sure the gears are still aligned.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1797.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f1995544-5273-47d5-98e4-09d4cd05ad14)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1798.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/65974ef6-2446-4642-9511-cbabdb93d3f8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1799.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a9fecb17-d824-4eeb-a81d-eeec86a51df6)
Checked the front main seal. Looking great as it should with only 30,000 original miles.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1800.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/40cfde22-4744-47d3-a66b-25cb83f827d7)
After posting this, I will spend more time cleaning the loose material off and any that fell into the oil pan. But here is a current picture of the cleaning job.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1802.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1e7dfecc-6a02-485f-9da0-9afdb85ba263)
Last summer when I had the timing cover off, there was pitting on the block side. The intent of the roloc disk is to smooth out some of that pitting without sacrificing too much material. And that is what it did! The rtv will fill in the rest. Originally, GM never put a gasket between the timing cover and the block. Let’s keep it that way!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1803.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/31290bb9-4560-4969-b3e2-febbf1dd2cb8)
Today being my Sunday, I went to work. Lol! But for good reason! The timing plate cover needed to be cleaned and the timing plate bolts needed refurbished! They were bad!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1988.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9cae87b5-38f8-4aef-badd-49551321ca68)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1985.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/83f1aabd-69fc-4f3a-8eee-017a0412429a)
So for the timing plate, I did the usual clean. Scraped the gasket off with the razor blade, used the roloc disk and then dunked it in the tank.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1986.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ff03016b-29cf-43d2-b352-befe2e0cc4bb)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1987.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/128f5eeb-5817-45ba-af59-5628635941b1)
Still some material in the bolt holes, ports and valley.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1992.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/db0682bc-1e25-43dc-8bde-f4a5481f0b55)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1991.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6efce308-da9b-4ebb-ad58-4b5adc0ae78f)
Then I dunked all the bolts in the tank to soften up the thread sealant and then wire wheeled each one. Afterward I dunked them back in the tank.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1989.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1d8f284f-b108-469c-b1a4-d58d1db4589e)
Went back to the garage and wire wheeled the rest of the gunk from the timing plate. There were no small ones at the shop but at home I have a lot of wheels of many sizes.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1993.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fbf255f5-0e07-41d5-82b4-2ca1bc327b8f)
Next I wanted to tackle that dreadful oil plug above where the oil cooler lines go.
I tried everything! I torched it, PB blasted it, WD-40ed it, tapped it with the hammer, broke a few 1/4 adapters, let it soak with Wd and pb over a week... Still could not get it off...
So I said screw it! I drilled a hole all the way threw and hammered in my #5 bolt extractor. It worked!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1994.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d906690d-1cec-4836-b20b-0fd0eb2d3efc)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1995.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fc9af7f1-6be0-40ed-911f-93f71a5d03b8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1997.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/223f38d3-44dc-4b9a-9f57-bbdd03174d7c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1998.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d5ba191a-8a3d-4d47-ae82-5ac751611e64)
With my smaller magnet, I probed the oil port and got all the shaving out. I also cleaned up all shavings from the block and oil cooler line nipples.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_1999.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/aa148ef7-a7b4-4f91-9ebd-3a099b9068b2)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2001.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/e7d8204b-859f-4fa6-a7b0-abe9c78a20a0)
Looking at the instructions, I then cleaned the old flanges up with the wire wheel and brake cleaner. Then added some Optimum Black on the threads. I installed the flanges and the steel braided oil line.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2003.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4d6118ea-59dd-4d69-b748-75cb1c6a4e3e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2004.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5bdeae86-147a-4669-83b7-c059c65c0fb0)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2005.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2b89a132-1376-4d27-ae68-acdbe87d629a)
Going back to the timing cover, I removed the timing cover crank seal. There was a small chunk of the rubber seal cut. The parts store had zero in stock. Poop!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2002.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5b7d30e4-bd57-4e4a-9255-8ba5c415286b)
Remembering what More Power said on the diesel page, I did a mock up of the exhaust cross over pipe to see how close the mechanical pump is.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2007.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2c29100d-b9e3-4ab5-ba86-07f0bf3aa93e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2006.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2473b674-2196-4313-b08a-e960d3296223)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2008.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/97b87463-8af8-469d-9fbb-fd208ea1c105)
It is pretty darn close! Imagining that area getting to 1000 degrees... Hmmm... Have not made up my mind about that yet. I really like the mechanical pump.
Waiting on parts... I have the water pump, aluminum crank pulley and now the timing plate crank seal on its way.
It is getting very cold up here in Montana. Over the next couple of days it will be dropping down to -11 degrees at least. Not really excited about that!
The rest of the day I am going to put the hood back on the blazer and the tires. Clean up the garage too.
I found a rebuild kit for the Sidewinder turbo. I am debating if I should or not.
I'm guessing that these two channels have a purpose and if they are filled with RTV, as it looks like they may have been before, they cannot perform their function...
I'm guessing that these two channels have a purpose and if they are filled with RTV, as it looks like they may have been before, they cannot perform their function...
Thanks for reminding me!
For this experimental water pump upgrade, I would first like to talk about the PPE!
Must haves!
Leather Gloves (Prevents metal slivers in hands)
Air tight goggles (Prevents slivers going in eyes)
Respirator (Prevents breathing in metal particles and toxic gas from Carbide)
Cheap painters suit (Prevents metal shavings getting on clothes and head)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2462.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ca76032b-065f-4c60-a16d-89a26bb50d24)
Now let’s talk about the pump! It is a 251-603 #19168609 For a 2000+ Gm. I call it experimental because there is less then a handful that have done this modification and only a few sites with info about it. Also, I have never done porting before and not sure if is going to work. So for me it’s totally experimental.
The source of information I gathered in regards to this upgrade is found here in these two sites:
https://www.65turbogarage.com/stop-65-overheating.html
https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/251-603-waterpump-porn.561466/
So I got lucky on eBay. These pumps usually go for $200+ but I found an old new stock one for only $100. It’s new but been sitting on a shelf for many many years. AKA old new stock! Lol! The impeller is about 4 1/4” and it has 6 blades. Instead of a bolt on pulley, it has a pressed pulley. From what I read, it pushes out 130 gpm just like the 97+ but it has a 50/50 balance unlike the 97+. Assumed and sounded good to me! Let’s try it!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2450.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/beedf706-c9c4-4bbe-a9be-ce729027a1e5)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2451.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d6c194ca-7f1d-4b3a-ae57-2003f890e65e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2449.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2cce26d7-62c5-4e6e-8646-624fb00ce841)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2453.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a6e5c4bf-1325-4578-9c9a-49eb25c364cb)
The end of the cast seems a lot smoother where the big coolant/lower radiator hose connects. This smoothness will help prevent leaks compared to the Oem 80’s pump cast.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2452.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b3f09395-7e49-4139-acc4-10c752c2e956)
The first thing I did was stuff the pump with paper towels and bolted the pump plate on without gasket or rtv. This prevents shavings going into the pumps seals.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2454.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c5c471bc-bf26-496f-9b66-bfe53f328584)
With the pump plate on, I used a black sharpie and marked the areas that needed to be ported.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2456.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/e56df87f-f2c0-4f27-b89c-40e6ed8ace05)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2455.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/baa32118-b1fc-43e1-ba13-73aa68b5ab83)
Heres pictures with the plate off...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2458.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f952ba10-7939-4c0f-a311-c60c80c5aeec)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2459.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c9fb0527-a939-49a8-98d3-72845f027fa5)
Next I went to Harbor Freight and picked up some carbides and a straight Die Grinder. For this job, I used this carbide.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2463.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c02d8b82-8484-4f24-9caf-9cf053fb69f4)
With the plate still on, I ported the water pump.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2465.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fd4a9711-aac9-440d-ae0c-4d9855bf3196)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2464.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/dd08b715-226a-4eb5-9a0c-ce01f36f536a)
Picture with plate off after porting...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2471.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/def41354-dc53-4ba4-ba75-ca52ee207d9e)
A few more pictures because I am a picture whore!!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2468.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/98662d16-985d-4ad1-9158-0dc96ae715c2)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2469.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7c1caf4f-5b9c-4e3f-be8d-c56970ea777c)
All cleaned up! Not bad for my first port job ehh? Yes I will be using a gasket and rtv between the pump and pump plate but no gasket for the timing cover.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2473.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/72cad8ec-fced-4672-a029-4d4581468c7d)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2472.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c3ebcca8-1a33-410f-94c2-30ea98efd92a)
And in this picture you will see the gap between the pump and the pump plate. The plate is bent a little. Because of this reason is why you would want to do the pump, pump plate and timing cover at the same time so there is zero possibility of leaks with the rtv curing.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2476.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/30061659-ff3b-41cb-b019-d4b69c3f8576)
After work I picked up the timing cover crank seal and put it in the freezer when I got back to the house.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2478.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7f0ce5ae-192a-483c-92f3-02a382913822)
Then I washed the timing cover in soap and water. Mainly focusing on the seal area.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2479.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/764dd47f-53b1-4942-962e-cd54ab74f1ee)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2480.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/02fd1eb2-30c0-4e68-a09e-6e1c4577c720)
After it was cleaned, I let it sit in hot water for 10 minutes.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2481.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8262979e-15c5-4dc6-a98b-7df6093a97f6)
Using the Wife’s favorite towel as a shock absorber on the kitchen table. Then I got a piece of wood from the scrap pile and pounded the seal in. Easy as pie!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2482.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fa18ae4e-ef65-4122-a067-d32f2f17d1b4)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2483.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/17b6c3bf-5c04-4cf0-b735-aad6607f56c0)
You know when you are a pack rat when you have too many water pump gaskets... Lol!
What do you guys think? Felpro or Mahle?
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2484.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4e7ca5c6-9255-41cd-b2cc-5bcddb1a55a1)
Truth be told! I only spend 15-60 minutes a day working on the motor. That is why it is taking so long with the exception of waiting on parts.
I ordered a 9 blade Duramax fan and Hayden Fan Clutch.
Getting ready for my first day off for the week tomorrow, I wire brushed the pumps bolts and put the Ultra Blue in the house to keep it warm. The goal tomorrow is to get the timing plate, water pump plate, water pump, fluidamper, aluminum crank pulley and dual thermostat cross over installed.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2486.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/edcc0651-4045-4ce5-9049-5c50c8584310)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2485.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3a079aa5-141a-4dcb-a8cc-09e51279327c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2485.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3a079aa5-141a-4dcb-a8cc-09e51279327c)
I'm pretty sure if I tried to do that the bolt would disappear into an alternate universe.... ;)
DmaxMaverick
10-28-2020, 17:27
I'm pretty sure if I tried to do that the bolt would disappear into an alternate universe.... ;)
Yeah, because that's exactly what happens.
a5150nut
10-29-2020, 07:59
15 to 60 minutes per day? An how much time of that is setting up the camera?
I Enjoy your posts!
I'm pretty sure if I tried to do that the bolt would disappear into an alternate universe.... ;)
The oil pan bolts tend to fly away with wings sometimes. Lol!
Yeah, because that's exactly what happens.
Been pretty lucky with the Vice so far!
15 to 60 minutes per day? An how much time of that is setting up the camera?
I Enjoy your posts!
Yep that’s right! Between wrenching and driving at work, keeping the family happy, new house work, etc not much time is spent actually working on it.
I would say 20% working on motor, 50% cleaning parts and 30% camera and writing.
I am glad you enjoy the thread! I wish I could have found a thread with all this info years ago. Happy it helps!
Test fitting the timing plate to the block. You can see a big gap between the oil pan and timing cover. I will need to put a gasket in that location.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2608.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b7db860f-2e9e-4ea7-a22a-ea675724bb7e)
Also there are only 4 bolts that require some rtv on the ends of them. Here is picture of 2 locations on timing cover. I put arrows on the block and timing cover.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2607.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/bd7c4794-15e8-4967-aa20-d66a81d4cf3f)
A professional skill learned in kindergarten... Finger painting! I sure love to finger paint RTV! Especially when there is sooo much pitting on the block and plates.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2613.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5d621463-921e-45a6-94bd-08ca3d77f8cd)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2611.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4e1095db-df3e-4e72-885b-503e28865193)
I did a basic bead of rtv on the timing cover and extra on the bottom. Extra on the corners and added the gasket. Rubbed in the rtv with my fingers for the corners.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2612.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7478df92-0bf6-4086-90ce-6676c23d40ea)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2617.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d797f02c-cbf3-40bd-b361-4516f42f8ffb)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2614.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f319c54c-c149-4b1a-a4f0-2a34edeb474f)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2615.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/119109c8-d670-4d38-bd74-007b14f19f39)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2616.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/7c2f2c34-2bf7-4451-8dcc-97d9644e96f6)
Using thread lock on all the bolts except the 4 that need RTV.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2619.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4b68c946-c1f2-4d68-b762-2344f8da03e0)
After the timing plate is installed, I decided to put in the injection pump.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2620.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c24212b8-33c4-45e6-910b-117f8587189a)
Don’t forget the inner plate!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2622.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/096dbbcb-448c-4971-82f5-aabc988ef41d)
Injection pump is now on! So easy!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2625.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c822ef97-b82c-4a5d-822e-05315d624974)
Now let’s do some more finger painting!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2626.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9f3e97b2-ea82-4551-b3ca-d62827595d63)
Add the gasket...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2627.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/bc654c09-9b50-4450-9623-1450ba2004f2)
Finger paint the pump and plate.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2630.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/154eb1ea-3604-4756-a92d-245fadc1369a)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2628.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/998aa83f-15ca-42a0-be4e-0648df6b6e4a)
Felpro added...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2629.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1ce3681a-02c1-41dc-8e96-e72f7094c330)
And since the other side of the gasket is lonely, let’s add an rtv friend...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2632.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6dfed228-074d-4dfe-bfb6-d0c9903a9473)
I have used this method of finger painting many times! It is a very thin layer of RTV and has proven time and time and again that it works! I never had any leaks... Ever.
This method really helps fill in the imperfections and pitting. Some may disapprove but IDC.
When putting on the pump I put Optimum black on these 2 bolt holes to prevent leaks from the threads.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2634.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5720ea5f-a6f7-4696-9adf-ab3ec59adeff)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2637.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1abd1693-89a7-4e87-a289-66565f4757e8)
And Optimum Black on these two 13mm bolts under the water pump.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2642.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b54e9ba1-3b11-4916-9c22-edf191a8e3f0)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2643.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/0d70201a-b08b-4c28-9c06-a3e560d46993)
Torquing the top 13mm bolts to 21 foot pounds and 31 foot pounds on the rest.
She is on!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2644.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/23fd6496-f903-462a-a264-0b8e4903f212)
While mocking up the dual thermostat crossover I noticed a few things. If I turn the inlet passenger side, it will be in the way of the throttle position sensor. Turning driver side, even with a custom bracket made, I’ll lose the high idle solenoid. Honestly, I don’t want to lose those. I live in a cold State and really really don’t want to lose the high idle solenoid.
Also apon more research, it seems the 6.5 single thermostat crossover is the way to go because of coolant pressures and because the thermostat restricts the bypass so the custom made restricter will not be needed.
Sorry guys... I know some of you were wanting to see this upgrade but it’s just not going to work for me. :-(
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2649.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/afc1899f-1abc-4015-a5d4-1bb65a63c195)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2647.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1dd0fa61-8269-46ec-bd30-d9834b20347d)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2646.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/725ae12d-5f4b-4ce6-b199-1e0be43bec33)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2645.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ef952ed9-3543-45bd-9097-63e0124b3de9)
So I took off the 1995 6.5 Single Thermostat crossover from the other spare motors and removed the old gasket with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Also cleaned up the threads on the bypass fitting.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2650.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b9a6dee4-70a9-4d5a-a5a3-a598ba857c40)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2651.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/12b9595e-3277-4aae-a115-ba9c26e3a238)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2652.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f0ddf8a8-ce6a-4ca6-920e-5d685c50b5e0)
Then added a thin layer of RTV on both the cross over and block.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2653.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6c9503d0-3e45-4927-8573-e49bc875170a)
With the 6.5 cross over on with the new bypass hose, I also installed the oil filler. A flaw with the design, they always leak from the rubber seal. To solve that problem, I add Ultra Blue in the valley of the seal and a thin layer around the fitting on the oil filler.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2655(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1a46228a-a7a5-44b2-876d-64cf4a744ba8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2654(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/21f08457-c460-4a99-b4ad-e23ad6b2663e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2656(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3804f366-a7d0-4979-8aa9-330cb4001a56)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2657(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/27422d71-e8c6-4b81-b442-542688003d63)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2658(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c0e80680-56c5-43aa-bc7d-20b6d74f2614)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2659(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c7fd25dd-b4dc-460f-b819-2dcd6a8fa6dc)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2660(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/0d1c0afb-83b0-4de8-a8e2-4e7a1b6e87d6)
Yukon6.2
10-30-2020, 09:43
Sxxt
sorry i said i was going to send pic's of my crossover mod
Sxxt
sorry i said i was going to send pic's of my crossover mod
Would love to see what set up you did.Either way I go I’m damned if I do or damned if I don’t with the coolant cross over. When I do my 4L80e swap I will not need that vacuum throttle position sensor so I may just be able to still do the dual thermostat cross over in the future.
Spent a few minutes today on the motor. I got the fluidamper back on
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2749.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f259f95a-5122-4d07-b744-961c6be10fcf)
I made sure the aluminum crank pulley aligned up with the water pump pulley before installing the crank bolt.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2750.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/06bc7892-a602-44fe-b138-36fe6e299426)
I went to the loco auto parts store and could not find the 4 bolts needed for the crank pulley so I drove to Ace and got some.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2753.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fb21addc-c5a5-4a98-b834-42cf98cdc2ec)
Crank pulley bolt installed...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2754.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/56fc072f-58f8-4ce2-831c-1e76e3840645)
Not much clearance but it works and the pulley lines right up!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2751.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3691461d-73fe-40d3-81c0-4ad22e3cbedc)
Pulley installed... I put thread lock on the ends of the bolts. Torqued to 40 foot pounds.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2755.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/45a2c65c-f815-43b5-b018-e9ca53d604a8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2756.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d6daa33d-4d6d-4e4c-8bd6-75beacc22d53)
I then mocked up the 1995 driver side tensioner, bracket and alternator.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2758.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/96bcc175-1a5a-4db0-8921-869decb7ae28)
This thread has upgraded from Awesome to TOTALLY SPECTACULAR! All you 6.5 and 6.2 gurus are gonna love this!! Stay tuned!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2772.GIF (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/56e0984d-1f45-4c42-a9e4-a0bda99c2282)
I am not going to bore you guys and gals with all my failed attempts to make this dual alternator serpentine belt system work without a/c and without the vacuum pump.
So to get started here’s what I did...
I used the 6.5 1996 Tensioner with bracket and alternator and put it on the passenger side of my 6.2.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2776.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6cc9a525-2150-493d-8442-e3a2473e2146)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2775.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/44bfe316-307a-4090-890a-33a93a848562)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2774.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/0e4a2f8c-2fec-42a9-b489-b4e7ab3ac01c)
Next I installed the OEM J code driver side alternator and bracket and removed the V-Belt Pulley...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2763.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/846577fc-e666-43cb-b36e-ca4606f9625a)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2764.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8f536a2a-0120-4875-8184-b3b1c71bae7c)
Then I removed the pulley from a 1995 6.5 Alternator and installed that pulley backwards on the J Code alternator with the J code Alternator fan.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2770.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9d7d52f7-6eca-40cc-9b2f-c26797fdd454)
I checked alignment and see that a washer is needed between j code alternator and bracket.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2778.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ecde83c7-8ce4-4967-bb7e-93a4eb480bc1)
And here is the final result! Everything aligns 100% perfect!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2780.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2c5d3f5c-b7d0-4eb9-8583-7e274ddb86f1)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2777.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3d598ab7-69f7-492b-8db6-f465fd8a4e0d)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_2781.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/76bbcf04-681e-4203-9e5c-362c87991bb9)
I have never read this method being done before. The only downside I see is that I will have to do some minor rewiring of the passenger side to match the 6.5 alternator. But here it is! It beats spending $200 for an incomplete bracket.
See link:
https://www.amer-grp.com/content/gm-10244209-dual-alternator-plate
This new method that I created will solve a lot of people’s problems! 6.2 and 6.5 alike!
Your welcome! And happy Halloween!
I mocked up the 6.5 powering steering pump and it does not fit without the 6.5 bracket.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3383.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9b73e084-43ea-40f9-bbe5-a0a4f7da9c65)
I installed the hard injection lines.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3393.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/53119dbb-7613-4c95-ad3b-4922487e0071)
I installed the return to fuel lines, lift pump hard line and bent them according to the Banks instructions.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3389.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/616ddf01-34df-4166-9791-c0ac1f007adb)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3390.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/e20080cd-9d95-45dd-86ef-001e04aea920)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3392.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ab1eebe7-257c-400c-8001-e5d090cfffbe)
Knowing the 6.5 powering steering does not fit. I knew it would not fit without the 6.5 bracket. It was just a mock up to show you all.
Anyhow, I installed the 6.2 powering steering pump from ORD (Off-road Design) and did a series of test fits with the different pulleys from the 6.5 parts. 6.5 Pulley part number #15589752 fit the best and aligned well with the rest of the serpentine pulleys.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3388.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d3fe3e76-f66c-4e19-9bcc-eb0c7c00decf)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3385.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ea2e5896-c1b8-4ee6-9f58-59863d0d3493)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3386.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1bdcb823-655d-427b-9b9e-9617191ebfe7)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3387.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c89cac7d-c0b3-4a1f-bcdd-e9335d588311)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3391.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b6f8f89e-eda0-43ac-af08-1b4e12c319d2)
I bought a new alternator for the passenger side. I tried 3 higher amp alternators but they were too big and hit the banks turbo casing. Ended up doing the 105 amp as it’s the best fit.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3398.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c3cc7607-e797-4082-871a-57951c10f4a3)
After running back and forth from the auto parts store about 6 times... I finally found the best fit Gates Serp Belt to fit my Newley created serpentine set up. Gates Belt #K060942-94 3/4” long.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3404.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b097d726-f281-4b36-95bb-d8615107a44c)
I was able to make adjustments with the belts tightness by moving the 6.2 powering steering pump and 6.2 J code Alternator.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3405.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/44f4cc95-7682-4029-af5d-47912ad56d02)
Here are a plethora of pictures with the belt on. You can see there is plenty of clearance between the Water Pump pulley and lower tensioner pulley. Also the 6.2 oil fill vent for the CDR hose comes close to hitting the tensioner pulley but there is just enough room.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3399.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/43b191ab-1c8b-4f69-bd58-d341596abdca)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3400.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9ed45750-89ae-4412-95db-d30ea599fb10)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3394.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4fc127f4-550a-4873-86b6-d47ca3ac6504)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3395.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/45db46ea-b2d7-405a-af8a-e578fb3de018)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3397.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/710f8a58-5e69-4228-a0e9-6357aff0ea04)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3396.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/527397a3-d66d-44a3-b74a-f7ac95ccee20)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3401.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/29be47ab-ef4d-4cc5-a849-308620a12d4f)
More pics continued...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3402.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9c474d47-1cd2-4d04-8d9c-1e8b718e8fd0)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3403.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/57909dc7-a53c-4c41-8561-2acbc6a400f3)
Yukon6.2
11-06-2020, 09:29
Did you get the pic's of the tstat mod?
Did you get the pic's of the tstat mod?
They did not show up in the email. Can you post them here in this thread?
After getting the kids ready for school, I took a nice long nap! Lol!
When I woke up, I cleaned the Garage and then installed the old used injector fuel return lines after cutting the ends to make them fit snug. They were special ordered years ago because they are heat resistant with fiber bradding on the outside.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3450.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1c508a9f-2d1c-444d-8969-d120f31bc40c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3451.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c38a79a9-a75f-4866-9938-c34ed1ad8951)
Then I put 3 coats of copper spray on the down pipe flange and installed the down pipe according to banks instructions.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3449.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3e66e784-d83f-4570-9562-342f0847e43b)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3460.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/d9a07e45-7ce8-4f07-938f-de9a729b8272)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3459.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3e822033-fb02-4c46-adb9-ddfb21d1dcfd)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3454.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c4289f45-14a5-4e65-81e8-54cf97edf834)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3456.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b91f1552-d7dd-40e8-8322-332e47a33f81)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3457.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/126c2bcf-03b7-404b-bba8-dfc08b91b0af)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3458.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/37fd2dac-bcec-4292-a428-cda1e9b9bcfc)
Next I ordered from Banks some missing parts from the kit.
Banks parts
Washers 91019
Exhaust stud 91504
Cross over gasket 93155
Rubber washers 91209
Air filter 41501
Water pump hose heat shield 26050
Downpipe gasket 93001
2 caps 92028
2 clamps 92878
Pyrometer Gauge kit
Boost Gauge kit
Then I temporarily installed a 6.5 oil cooler with lines and driver side exhaust crossover. (Waiting on parts for the Passenger side)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3461.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/990fe0a9-c845-43bc-98a9-cf425dfd768c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3462.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9a2290b9-2645-4891-be4e-9f1495d99676)
I found a fitting in the spare parts to block off the water crossover hole for the heater core hose.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3464.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/532c4d40-9e1c-4073-9ef1-a14c47e7ae5b)
I cleaned up the turbos top oil filler fittings and put optimum black on the threads and installed.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3453.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/184bc374-aec1-4869-b081-8ac988775c4d)
I removed the 6.5 water temperature sensor and went to Ace to get a fitting for the Phantom 2 Autometer gauge water temperature sensor. Installed.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3452.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/58b033b9-524e-4500-a731-20f7d8d6efa3)
Waiting on more parts to arrive. The goal is to get the motor mostly dressed and ready to do some testing and start it up on the motor stand. The most important test is going to be the coolant pressure test. Then a compression test.
Finally another temperature test with a laser thermometer gun to see if the rear of the block actually gets hotter then the front. I imagine the rear of the block would get a little hotter then the front because of the design of the cooling system. This last test will bust any myths. I would say if there is a 10 degree difference, there should be another upgrade in the future...
Yukon6.2
11-07-2020, 09:46
I PM'ed them to you .
I didn't want to mess up your thread with pic's that weren't of your choosing.
I PM'ed them to you .
I didn't want to mess up your thread with pic's that weren't of your choosing.
They did not show in the PM.
Looking great ......:D
Thanks! Coming from you Robyn... That means a lot!
I took the injector lines off so it’s easier to clean up the intake holes. I’ll install the intake manifold after I do the coolant pressure test. I can not do the coolant pressure test until the thermostat shows up at the parts store. Hopefully tomorrow...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3522.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5ceda4a7-7498-4696-88b7-4bd3b21555bf)
I deleted the glow plug sensor. I might put a coolant pressure gauge there. Have not decided yet.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3525.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/e1788809-185d-4ed6-b982-1ead7a89c37e)
Also got the starter on and wired it up with some extra wire I had laying around.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3523.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/acfede74-0f8b-410c-b950-7b50fa33c57f)
Got the IP wire ready.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3524.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3253edee-07f1-4fae-b221-11ee19d49431)
Next I installed the oil dip stick with a new O-ring and some Ultra Blue to go the extra mile to prevent leaks since that is prone to leak.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3526.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/25580e4c-e04d-449b-a308-3087e3a424f7)
Yukon6.2
11-09-2020, 09:54
They did not show in the PM.
Thanks! Coming from you Robyn... That means a lot!
My email is solotwin at yahoo dot com if you email me i will try and send them to you.
The Thermostat showed up. The darn thing was $41... I installed it with a gasket and finger painted a light coat of Ultra Blue on both sides of the gasket since there was a lot of corrosion and pitting.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3539.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4d51344b-df1b-4783-a9b3-0e55f2be61cf)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3538.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/e2f0e368-49b5-45b2-9a80-53f271fc4ad1)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3537.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a885c7f0-a383-47d2-8896-72e582045ece)
Also I installed a coolant pressure gauge in place of the deleted glow plug temperature sensor after taping it. 15 psi max might not be enough because I’ve seen coolant pressures get up to 17 psi. I’ll order a different one but use this for the time being since I had it laying around...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3535.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4660cacd-ccf1-461b-ba00-b59b120a19f3)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3534.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8b143566-edaf-467b-9dea-f6d36d8f1ba1)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3536.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/0fc8fa77-d8e8-44d2-827a-0cd26532047a)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001_IMG_3540.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9f2bf2b3-916d-4651-a403-72ebba71a941)
After a few days of letting the RTV cure, I’ll finally get the pressure test done on the coolant system.
Today I hooked up the custom 4 core 6.2 diesel radiator and started the Coolant Pressure testing. I pumped the pressure to 15 psi. She is leaking 1 psi per 5 minutes. So quiet I could not hear it. I used soapy water in a spray bottle and sprayed every single spot associated with the cooling system. There was only one spot that was slowly leaking... It was the recently installed thermostat gasket with rtv. My assumption is that the 24 hour cure time needs to be increased by at least a few days. Here are pictures of coolant test number 1.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(4).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/43fc59e6-4e13-449b-82ff-43d7e366b05c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(2).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/da22390f-d284-4535-a1ad-76b1e34ba477)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(3).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/33f685ba-6100-42e0-b620-a1439348917c)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(6).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4e9dc5da-53a8-4ea3-bac0-538a52a89b64)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(5).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5a924090-9373-4179-b185-67d7cbe2d1db)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(1).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/29dec220-0a14-4e32-a884-06c5ce0507bd)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001.HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b9e48898-ba98-42f7-bfa9-e21d780df42c)
Banks Pyrometer fitting installed on the Exhaust Manifold.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(7).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a6c57053-37e9-49d9-a0b7-36fbc744cd0d)
Also installed the Banks rubber caps for the intake manifold. It’s design deletes the CDR hoses from going directly into the intake manifold. It is redesigned to go into the banks air filter housing.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(9).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/c42b5ad7-361b-484a-b70d-b5b931159ac2)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(8).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/17ffb452-d5f0-4bcf-b000-ba8b11bf4270)
Off work early today. Helped the Wife clean the house and finished installing the Exhaust Crossover.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(31).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/0734f541-9182-4dd3-bbf5-e5b86c6b0ec8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(30).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b1d4d1b9-479a-43e1-9604-12e15faf6d17)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(27).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2dd83403-a06c-4959-9e1f-16d575e95964)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(35).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b21e77f1-6b9b-479d-9182-f0cb8b5bfd38)
Then I installed the Water Pump Hose Heat Shield. Crossover appears to be in the way of the water pump hose. It is going to be a pita to install the water pump hose with the heat shield on. I have read that some people delete that heat shield because of how much of a Bixxx it is to get that hose on. We will see when I am ready to do the second coolant pressure test.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(36).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/b3993c69-22e7-47dd-a593-fc1a72fffed8)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(34).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/1a35e4e7-8b8b-49f2-ba39-98e72f0b9634)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(26).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/3c717865-e289-449b-b7ac-fb2254198d52)
For the thermostat gasket, I choose to use Felpro this time. I also did a decent sized bead of Ultra Blue on each side of the gasket. I’ll give it 3 days of cure time before the next test.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(29).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a6bc98c0-24eb-43d5-a13a-86917f38a4e7)
Next I cleaned the intake holes with brake cleaner and installed the new Felpro gaskets.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(24).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/977742f1-dd5a-4cd9-bfb5-8cb4bbf3b68d)
Some porting food for thought on the next motor build...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(25).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a8da9731-08e5-46b5-9b87-c3a93dd1d776)
I blew out the injection lines with compressed air and cleaned the ends of the injection lines with a paper towel and brake cleaner.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(16).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/af68f439-975d-4c9f-8f8b-6064a0acf054)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(18).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/76abb213-3f1d-44f0-8314-4ecabb278fd0)
Using brake cleaner and Q-Tips, I cleaned the injector ends and injector pump ends.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(23).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8c83a07d-6f33-46cd-8124-148dc8489362)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(22).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a2e25cf3-2104-408f-9289-8dbbee2c989a)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(21).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fe91403b-b9bd-4377-87f6-8584f4156ad1)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(20).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/26d76d33-657e-44e4-923e-10198865f012)
Fuel lines installed again...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(19).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6462034e-63c4-4264-ab0e-f5b67c040f2a)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(17).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/feabb21f-1e48-4486-80a7-e150970a6887)
I cleaned up the intake manifold with brake cleaner and paper towel.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(69).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/19905995-f0ce-4e0e-8e6d-0871eee1213f)
The intake manifold was hitting the cheap LMC truck valve covers. I used my die grinder and took off some metal from the valve cover so the intake manifold fits.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(68).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9fd40e46-aa1e-4619-b670-f12f85590b38)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(67).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/2d57d8fb-ba8a-4142-baa1-a9e9c937859e)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(66).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/bc5dbb3a-98fa-4546-a703-819e59fb25bb)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(64).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/568bc0aa-32f7-4c4a-a838-e3c5559ee256)
I installed the intake manifold. Torqued to 31 foot pounds after putting blue thread sealer on the threads.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(63).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/895d64e2-d26c-433e-835d-54ec9efa5067)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(65).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6410e58e-8048-40fa-9be4-36358840f8c5)
Installed the J-Code Alternator support rod.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(62).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/ea2e89c7-bb2c-42be-84f2-c0fe193e31d2)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(61).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/22d2d75c-0119-4d9d-ab57-253018a8d87c)
The banks installation manual shows a Civilian CDR. I might have one in the spare parts box. But I am going to hold off on the CDR because I would like to attempt hooking up the air filter housing to the snorkel which means CDR can’t be determined yet.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(59).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8daeca7d-0c1b-4941-bb00-640ddd218ed6)
Next I wire brushed the Ultra black off of the Banks Air Hat.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(55).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/35700b8b-a676-4dfb-9917-7a33d3d9bdb1)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(56).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/427f94c4-491c-4765-b48e-6cb39c63c165)
Then I cleaned the air hat in the sink with soap and water.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(58).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/4738a896-4167-459a-ad6e-0a5b50f2a5a7)
Here’s pictures of the air hat all cleaned up and dried.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(52).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/5988754c-f861-4aef-a7f2-2dc13d0d874f)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(46).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/6f9dd756-8d11-47a1-9412-19172732ca9c)
Looking at the installation instructions, I installed the correct washers, studs and nuts for the air hat, along with my original round gasket to seal the air hat and intake.
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Air hat installed...
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Intake/turbo tube installed... I used the original rubber boots since they are still in great shape. Just dirty. Waste not... Save more$
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Since I am on a roll today, I also installed the turbos oil fill line and used zip ties to keep it secure...
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Keeping the garage warm for a few more days before I do the 2nd coolant pressure test which gives the Ultra Blue more time to cure.
I ordered a 0-30 psi 1/8 NPT coolant pressure gauge for the rear driver side coolant plate to replace that 0-15 psi gauge.
I also need more braided fuel hose for the return line.
a5150nut
11-14-2020, 19:17
I like your fingernails holding that turbo pipe. Where you getum done at?
I like your fingernails holding that turbo pipe. Where you getum done at?
That’s Santa’s little Elf helper! Lol!
For educational reasons only, I mocked up the CUCV J-Code CDR valve to check fitment. It appears to work well with the Banks kit. The bottom inlet seems a little tight at an angle. Actual CDR location is not determined yet.
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I also capped off the Pyrometer fitting temporary for the test runs..
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I also got 2 matching intake air hat nuts installed. Grade 8.
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Picked up some free stainless steel sheet metal at work. I used my tin snips and made my own turbo heat shield. It will protect the 6.5 Alternator that has plastic on the back of it and protect other things as well.
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Last night the 1/8 NPT 0-30 psi coolant pressure gauges arrived in the mail. I replaced the 0-15 gauge and installed the 0-30 gauge on the driver side rear coolant plate.
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I also installed a 0-30 psi 1/8 NPT coolant pressure gauge on the front top thermostat housing neck replacing the necks OEM fitting.
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Went on a parts run to O’REILLY auto parts, I bought 4’ of fuel line for the return to fuel, 4’ of Red battery cable 4 gauge, 4 butterfly battery terminals and 4 battery cable connector ends. I hooked the battery’s positive to negative which reads 12 volts and the positive end to the starter which reads 24 volts and the negative end (Ground) to the bottom driver side motor mount holes.
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Using thick gauge stereo speaker wire, I hooked up the glow plugs after I tested the glow plug ohms and connected the ends of all 8 wires together and crimped a connector on. I tested all 8 plugs which read 11.25 volts. Plenty for the G60s.
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I installed the fuel hose and return line with just a few inches from the floor so I can use a diesel fuel can to put them in.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(101).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/f62ad5ef-0b1d-4f7a-b1da-43ea5a6b40dd)
Here’s wire for Starter Solenoid.
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Here’s wire for the Injection Pump.
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I hooked up my Racor fuel filter/housing and wire tied it to the motor. The Racor housing has a primer on it. It will help me prime all the air out for an easier first start. This upgrade is up for sale. Send PM if interested. Spin on type that replaces the OEM box filter. Bolts right up to the existing firewall holes.
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Good news and bad news!
The good!
Racor fuel filter/housing is sold.
I filled up the oil a few days ago and drained it last night. It was extremely dirty from doing all that work to the motor. I filled it up again and started the motor for 1 minute dry of coolant.
It runs very good! No white smoke, no blow by.
The Bad...
Because of the location of my snorkel, I determined the best CDR for my needs will be the 6.5 CDR with the 6.5 CDR valve cover and 6.5 oil filler tube. This means I get to take apart the top end of the motor again! Fun!
More Bad...
The belt I used stretched sooo much that I am going to have to go down a size because the Tensioner Pulley is getting dangerously close to the Water Pump Pulley. Why? The water pump I choose to use has a wider Pulley then the stock 6.5 bolt on Pulley.
Will get you pictures and video after I release these 6.2/6.5 Demons.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001.GIF (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/6f817ef8-9a0a-4b19-a07e-57d21db8b020/p/1565e8ec-3264-4312-acc3-7178a46f1060)
IDK why the shop put the Phantom 2 oil temperature gauge sensor on this ridicules long tower of fittings! The gauge never read over 100 degrees... Now I know why! Lol! I am removing this sensor and will put it on the oil pan somewhere.
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Temporarily I also removed the mechanical Phantom 2 Oil pressure fitting for the test runs leaving just the stock oil pressure sensor for now.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(105).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/a1569955-db25-4d4a-abf7-9a0ae528e386)
I swapped out the 6.2 oil filler to the 6.5 oil filler because I am going to a 6.5 CDR set up for the snorkel.
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For just the rest runs, I installed a 0-60 oil pressure gauge.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(108).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/9ac14e59-a830-4500-92d5-6496a5aaf687)
I am now experimenting with getting a smaller diameter tensioner pulley so it does not hit the larger water pump pulley. Note OEM 6.5 tensioner pulley is 3” diameter.
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I ordered a new 6.5 CDR passenger side valve cover. I do not want to take too many parts off of my running spare 6.5 because I will be doing an 18:1 build in the future if the block and heads are good on it.
sctrailrider
11-21-2020, 15:53
By any chance do you live in Wolf Point Mt ?
By any chance do you live in Wolf Point Mt ?
No. Bozo area. Is wolf point where you are from?
sctrailrider
11-22-2020, 05:17
No, just sold a set of 18:1 pistons to someone who lived their...
No, just sold a set of 18:1 pistons to someone who lived their...
Yea that was not me. So the rumor is the 6.2 pistons are thicker then the 6.5 pistons and would be a better option to do the 18:1. Do you sell sets of 6.2 18:1 pistons?
sctrailrider
11-22-2020, 16:37
No but if you want them machined and or coated I can do that.....
56655666
No but if you want them machined and or coated I can do that.....
56655666
Ok. I have 2 more motors to build up after this one. I’ll give ya a call when it’s 18:1 time for sure!
Got off work today and spent 10 minutes taking off the driver side exhaust with the sawzall. It’s painful to see myself tossing it. After all it is 3” stainless with flow master.
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I got started on removing the Oem motor crossmember and just as I was on the last rivet, wife came out and said it’s dinner time and I had to go run some errands for her. Now it’s dark and cold. Maybe tomorrow I’ll get to install the ORD motor crossover. :-D
Helluva sweet job on the 6.2.....I Enjoy the photography
The old 6.2 used to have an oil baffle inside that stopped the fill tube from leaking around the rubber grommet.
GM decided that the baffle cost too much and a bit of oil puking was OK
Helluva sweet job on the 6.2.....I Enjoy the photography
The old 6.2 used to have an oil baffle inside that stopped the fill tube from leaking around the rubber grommet.
GM decided that the baffle cost too much and a bit of oil puking was OK
Thank you! I did not know about the internal baffle. Them cheapo’s! Lol
I tried a series of different tensioner pulleys and could not find a good fit smaller pulley. So I decided to modify my own. I picked up this free pulley from a friend. It came off of a Subaru tensioner pulley. I used my die grinder and took off 2mm and then took off 1mm from the 6.5 aluminum tensioner cast. It fits great and no more chance of rubbing on the water pump pulley.
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I hooked up the radiator and did the 2nd coolant pressure test. Still leaking from the thermostat housing. Looks like I will need to get a new one or double up on the gasket. Kinda strange that the thermostat housing gauge reads 15 psi and the rear coolant plate gauge reads 11 psi. I am guessing the rear gauge is not calibrated correctly.
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I also installed the new 6.5 valve cover and installed the CDR. I used the optimum black Rtv to seal the rubber boot.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(119).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/36595f73-a074-4d37-8ff9-cf339ee7ca83)
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What is it with these made in China valve covers always in the way of the intake manifold? I’ll have to grind the edges off again...
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DmaxMaverick
11-27-2020, 21:39
I hooked up the radiator and did the 2nd coolant pressure test. Still leaking from the thermostat housing. Looks like I will need to get a new one or double up on the gasket. Kinda strange that the thermostat housing gauge reads 15 psi and the rear coolant plate gauge reads 11 psi. I am guessing the rear gauge is not calibrated correctly....
I've heard it said, "A man with one clock always knows the time. A man with two is never sure." (obviously from a time before synchronous digital clocks)
Are you sure the rear gage isn't calibrated correctly? How do you know either of them are calibrated?
Also, coolant will not leak like air, or perhaps not at all, and it may never actually see 15 PSI. If it remains a problem, it can be tackled later, with the engine installed and filled with coolant. I'd suggest doing the test then.
I've heard it said, "A man with one clock always knows the time. A man with two is never sure." (obviously from a time before synchronous digital clocks)
Are you sure the rear gage isn't calibrated correctly? How do you know either of them are calibrated?
Also, coolant will not leak like air, or perhaps not at all, and it may never actually see 15 PSI. If it remains a problem, it can be tackled later, with the engine installed and filled with coolant. I'd suggest doing the test then.
The pressure tester pump has a gauge on it and is showing the same psi as the thermostat housing gauge.
I would love to throw it in and do all the tests but one thing after another. It’s best to get all the bugs out before I put it in. Like today’s test, the new 6.5 valve cover started to leak oil and the injection pump is misfiring the motor and the turbo oil drain is leaking. Fixing those new issues would be a pita if the motor was in the bay.
I randomly went to a guys house that owns a stock M1009 and looked at the motor bay. I am not happily convinced the 6.5 valve cover and Cdr location will suit my needs. I will replace the 6.2 valve cover and oil fill tube and use a civilian Cdr bracket.
The motor misfires a little. I will turn down the fuel 1/4 turn to see if it changes anything.
Kinda not liking the serpentine system because of too much belt vibration since there is no vacuum pump pulley to correct that.
Also I am seeing the coolant boiling in the block before the 195 degree thermostat opens up. I think I will try a 130 or 180 degree thermostat to see if that fixes that problem. Just as the 6.5 diesel pages recommended not to use a single thermostat with a 130gpm pump. A much lower thermostat is needed or none at all to correct this problem or the dual thermostat with 180 degree therms.
In addition, the top radiator hose collapses from too much vacuum from the 130gpm pump. The coolant reserve tank is needed to prevent this during the testing.
Crucial info MUST READ!
About 9 years ago I remember reading about a guy in West Jordan Utah buying up the last of the 6.2 Banks Sidewinder Turbo rebuild kits. I think I might have met him on one of my Moab trips. Anyhow, I found his posting on EBay. I bought his second to last one just in case I need it. I figure $68 is justified since Banks no longer makes this turbo. He has only 1 left... I do not know if anyone else has a rebuild kit for this turbo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Banks-Sidewinder-Turbocharger-Rebuild-kit-7-3-6-9-FORD-6-2-Chevy-MADE-IN-USA/114108448543?hash=item1a9164bf1f:g:hdgAAOSwXMheQdg Y
Also a little secret, with the Ip turned up 1/4 and with 40hp injector nozzle tips, this turbo can get up to 13 psi non wastegate comparable to a 6.5 GM5 turbo.
Things have been busy at the house and work the last few days. I finally got the ORD engine crossmember brace on. It was a PITA to install because my frame was not 100% straight so the bolt holes did not line up that great. I had to bend the frame to get it to line up. Not much, just a few MM. Other then having to grind off 2 of rivets, it in general is not a bad install if the frame was straight. I do not know why I paint undercarriage parts, they get banged up and rusty in a year or 2...
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I checked the ORD Power Steering support brace and saw the end bolt was loose. Probably from all those crazy trails I’ve been on over the years. I do think ORD should fab it with 2 bolts on this end instead of one. Trail vibrations tend to get things loose.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(1).MOV (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/8ac52ca2-2be8-4a96-9a3d-92c26cf4ebb8)
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(2).JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/de50a2c3-3085-48d7-85df-9947839b6e34)
I also checked the ORD Power Steering Weld on Repair plate. All the welds look great and the plate is doing its job. I had this installed the same time I upgraded my whole power steering system because of the starting of cracking on the frame. The cracking has not gotten longer since the repair plate was installed.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001.JPG (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/fc628228-f0ab-42bf-aeb2-b8aa735da593)
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My phone died and I borrowed the Wifes phone on some of these pictures. Sorry for the Live Photo’s.
Yesterday afternoon I lifted each side of the Blazer with the Hi lift Jack so I could finish drilling the last two bolt holes for the Motor Crossmember because my drill is too long to get a straight hole. I made darn sure I kept my body away from anything that would kill me if the Jack fell out from under the blazer.
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Afterward, I got the lower ORD motor mounts installed. I left the bolts and nuts loose to make the motor install easier.
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I keep seeing air quickly come in from the return line. I added a one way check valve for the testing.
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On the motor stand with the 130 gpm water pump, 195 single thermostat temperature testing with the shops laser thermometer gun shows that the motor definitely gets at least 30 degrees hotter before the thermostat housing which tells me a lower thermostat is a must have!
The hottest parts on the motor is indeed the heads. Front and rear temps only show a few degrees difference. The rear of the heads are about 2-3 degrees cooler then the front.
Driver side head...
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Back of the heads...
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Passenger side head...
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Driver valve cover... Note the valve cover is cooler on the rear of the motor by 4 degrees.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(139).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/60e7626e-0070-4a62-9dd6-2828a7e8a9a9/p/aae52357-a65c-4d3f-9b1a-7be34a63e003)
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Edit: I find it interesting that the driver side head is about 10 degrees hotter then the passenger side. That explains why just the driver side precups cracked but the passenger side precups did not. It also explains why one of the 6.5 driver side head was cracked between the valves and the passenger side head was not. When I flushed the coolant from the motor, I could not flush the driver side unless I popped one of the freeze plugs when the coolant crossover housing was off. The coolant flow design on the driver side is a mistake GM made. I think the paradox by design kit just for the driver side would be beneficial to balance the driver vs passenger side head temperatures.
One has to also take into consideration that the back of this motor is not pressed tight against the firewall which gets less ventilation from the fan. More temperature testing is needed after the motor is installed in the engine bay.
So everything was going great! All of a sudden she started blowing large amounts of white smoke. Smells like unburnt fuel.
Ordered a rebuilt injection pump 4544 from Pensacola Diesel, Inc and ordered injector pop pressure tester and valve compression tool.
This build is on hold. Starting fresh with another block. This time no serpentine and no upgraded water pump.
a5150nut
12-08-2020, 07:07
IIRC there was someone who put together a Pop test system with a grease gun somewhere in past article here.
DmaxMaverick
12-08-2020, 07:47
IIRC there was someone who put together a Pop test system with a grease gun somewhere in past article here.
You can make one with a bottle jack and a short trip to the hardware store. I don't know that a grease gun could develop enough pressure, but would be another simple option if it did.
Thanks for the reply’s gents! The pop pressure tester should be delivered shortly.
arveetek
12-11-2020, 13:32
This build is on hold. Starting fresh with another block. This time no serpentine and no upgraded water pump.
Did I read that right? You're starting completely over with another block? What's the reason?
Casey
Did I read that right? You're starting completely over with another block? What's the reason?
Casey
It is on hold. I am tinkering with other blocks at the moment while waiting for parts which will take awhile... I did test the injectors with my new pop pressure tester. They all popped at 1900 psi with a straight stream and no drips. So chances are this experimental motor has a coolant leak somewhere. I’m thinking it is a crack that was unseen in the head or head gasket blew from the 130gpm water pump upgrade pressure.
DmaxMaverick
12-12-2020, 09:25
The 130 GPM water pump did not foul a head gasket. The static pressure increase of the pump is insignificant. If coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber(s), it was built in, and not what you described. Coolant leaks don't smell like unburnt fuel. If combustion gases aren't pressurizing the cooling system, it isn't likely leaking coolant into the cylinder(s). Something else is going on. I'd try different injectors and/or different IP long before coming to that conclusion or giving up. Unseated rings, cylinder issues, or leaky valves are more likely if it's a compression issue.
They all popped at 1900 psi with a straight stream ...
Maybe just a language thing, but that is not how I would describe a good spray pattern... Is it a stream of liquid, or is it atomizing the fuel?
DmaxMaverick
12-12-2020, 11:11
Maybe just a language thing, but that is not how I would describe a good spray pattern... Is it a stream of liquid, or is it atomizing the fuel?
Agreed. A "straight stream of liquid" is a failed injector. It should be a cone of very fine mist (completely atomized). Any form of "stream of liquid" is not atomized. The result would be similar to previously described white smoke and unburnt fuel-smelling exhaust.
sctrailrider
12-12-2020, 14:52
And if it is a "stream" it will bore a hole in a piston....
The injectors only have 5000 miles on them. The “stream” quickly widens a little and yes it atomizes. Since I took the injection lines off about 10 times for the testing, I assumed there could be a possibility that an injector got clogged. They appear to be good! Next up is the injection pump that still has not been shipped yet.
I already disassembled the other 6.2 and put all the good parts on the part shelf. Including the pistons. Currently doing a refresher on the great running 6.5.
Learning the Experimental 130gpm pump continues to collapse the upper radiator hose from all the back pressure vacuum. Learning that I can not get a dual alternator set up unless I have an A/C delete pulley and the 6.5 $200 Alternator bracket because the tensioner pulley keeps hitting the water pump pulley. Even with the smaller pulley on the tensioner.
When the new injection pump arrives I’ll put it back together and do one last test. The compression test. Cross your fingers!
Time to modify things some.
Make a different bracket to relocate things that are hitting.
There is always a way to make stuff work that does not want to.....
The rebuilt injection pump arrived! Waiting on the compression test adapter. I’ll finish doing this refresher on the 6.5 and then get going on the 6.2 sidewinder build again.
This Friday I plan on going down to Dillon to pick up more 6.2/6.5 parts from a member of the dieselpage. Would be nice to get both motors running top by the end of this winter.
I would like to do another Moab trip and an Alaskan trip soon!
I might be selling the 6.5 TD after I am done with the overhaul if anyone is interested.
Yukon6.2
12-17-2020, 09:56
If you do the Alaska trip,you will be driving past my shop.
Free camping if you need it,plus a stock of 6.2/6.5 parts.I doubt you will need parts,6.2/6.5 are very reliable:cool:
If you buy the lot of parts,and do the Alaska trip i may be interested in a few parts if they end up surplus to your needs.
If you do the Alaska trip,you will be driving past my shop.
Free camping if you need it,plus a stock of 6.2/6.5 parts.I doubt you will need parts,6.2/6.5 are very reliable:cool:
If you buy the lot of parts,and do the Alaska trip i may be interested in a few parts if they end up surplus to your needs.
Ok sounds good! I do not think Canada is accepting Americans right now. Might be awhile.
Yukon6.2
12-20-2020, 10:48
Travel in a semi
A couple of locals wanted to put in their regular run to down south to supplies for winter
They took a couple of semi's and never got asked what they were doing,never isolated when they got back.
Anyway i am not going anywhere so the offer stands to stop by,free camping ect.
Travel in a semi
A couple of locals wanted to put in their regular run to down south to supplies for winter
They took a couple of semi's and never got asked what they were doing,never isolated when they got back.
Anyway i am not going anywhere so the offer stands to stop by,free camping ect.
Awesome! Thank you! Will take you up on that offer when it’s time!
So an update... The experimental 6.2 motor is still sitting and chilling on a tire. I have a guy making custom dual alternator brackets I am waiting for. I have been delayed with the holidays and selling a lot of extra parts. I sold the single thermostat housing off of it because I picked up a modified dual thermostat with custom brackets for the throttle cable and high idle solenoid.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/m491/chrisjhufstetler/001(184).HEIC (https://app.photobucket.com/u/chrisjhufstetler/a/772060bf-015f-4fd0-8e4b-de55195c4d54/p/301f59b8-5383-4b5a-a3fc-31d9ba5a8e6e)
Yukon6.2
01-06-2021, 11:12
Have you got a spare banks crossover for sale ?
Have you got a spare banks crossover for sale ?
No I do not. I just sold all the banks items, 3 early 6.5 motors, this 6.2 motor and bought a brand new Optimizer NAVSTAR 6.5. :-D
The guy that bought the last of my banks stuff has an extra cross over. Send me a PM of your phone number and I’ll give you his contact info.
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