Newbie with a 87 6.2 Blazer

[chaosrob]

new to the 6.2 world but bit squares :).

I purchased a 6.2 87 blazer in pretty solid condition that has had its c code engine swapped out for a 91 j code. The c code accessories were all transferred over.

There is a leak from what appears to be the base for the fuel filter (haven't removed the filter yet to verify so it could be as simple as a hose) and am curious if anyone updates this system rather than going back factory. It seems like there is room for improvement here and thought I would ask the experts. Any input is welcome and TIA

Pic of the new toy

https://i.imgur.com/Z6zx1bF.jpg?1

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard. Very nice find!

If your only complaint, so far, is a leak at the fuel filter, you're miles ahead. Be sure to read through the stickies in the 6.2/6.5 Upgrades & Service Questions forum for a lot of general and preventive information. If it's alive, it isn't hard to keep it that way.

The fuel leak isn't complicated, no matter the cause, and here are some more-simple possibilities:

Definitely check the lines and nipples. It may be only that simple.

Fuel filter element installation. The canister has simple grommets that engage pipes in the base. Occasionally, they can be dislodged or pushed in. Easily correctable, just reposition it, and make sure it engages cleanly onto the pipes. The element should slip on without resistance, and be secure once the spring clamps are in place.

The filter assembly has a water drain that can leak. It's a plastic screw (somewhat resembling a needle valve) at the bottom, outboard side, and originally had a rubber hose attached (that only directs down, not connected to anything). It is plastic, so obviously, can crack. It is also O-ring sealed, so it may only be the O-ring. I don't recall the size, but you should be able to match one easily. The bleed valve at the top of the filter assy is the same and they are interchangeable. If the O-ring at the top is good, use it to measure/locate a replacement for the drain.

The filter assy has a heater element potted into the base. It isn't connected to the fuel plumbing, but crack(s) can radiate from the recess (replace assembly).

Any of the protruding pipes can leak, but the rubber grommets on the canister should prevent any leaks during operation once the canister is clamped in place.

Finally, the filter base assembly may be cracked. If so, it's time for a replacement. New, NOS, and recycler (wrecking yard) replacements are available, but any modern filter that fits will work. While an integrated heater isn't required most of the time, I highly recommend it for all but the warmest U.S. seasonal climates. Don't complicate it. If you use a non-OEM style replacement, be sure it uses a common replacement element. Check the part number crossover and availability at local chain auto parts stores. If they have it in stock, it will likely always be in stock (and probably much less costly than the OEM). Racor has a bunch of candidates that will work. Summit and Jegs are good sources once you identify the one, or style, you want.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

[chaosrob]

Thank you for the kind words and advice.

I was pleasantly surprised at the drivability of the blazer after all the negative posts I read about them.


Welcome aboard. Very nice find!

If your only complaint, so far, is a leak at the fuel filter, you're miles ahead. Be sure to read through the stickies in the 6.2/6.5 Upgrades & Service Questions forum for a lot of general and preventive information. If it's alive, it isn't hard to keep it that way.

The fuel leak isn't complicated, no matter the cause, and here are some more-simple possibilities:

Definitely check the lines and nipples. It may be only that simple.

Fuel filter element installation. The canister has simple grommets that engage pipes in the base. Occasionally, they can be dislodged or pushed in. Easily correctable, just reposition it, and make sure it engages cleanly onto the pipes. The element should slip on without resistance, and be secure once the spring clamps are in place.

The filter assembly has a water drain that can leak. It's a plastic screw (somewhat resembling a needle valve) at the bottom, outboard side, and originally had a rubber hose attached (that only directs down, not connected to anything). It is plastic, so obviously, can crack. It is also O-ring sealed, so it may only be the O-ring. I don't recall the size, but you should be able to match one easily. The bleed valve at the top of the filter assy is the same and they are interchangeable. If the O-ring at the top is good, use it to measure/locate a replacement for the drain.

The filter assy has a heater element potted into the base. It isn't connected to the fuel plumbing, but crack(s) can radiate from the recess (replace assembly).

Any of the protruding pipes can leak, but the rubber grommets on the canister should prevent any leaks during operation once the canister is clamped in place.

Finally, the filter base assembly may be cracked. If so, it's time for a replacement. New, NOS, and recycler (wrecking yard) replacements are available, but any modern filter that fits will work. While an integrated heater isn't required most of the time, I highly recommend it for all but the warmest U.S. seasonal climates. Don't complicate it. If you use a non-OEM style replacement, be sure it uses a common replacement element. Check the part number crossover and availability at local chain auto parts stores. If they have it in stock, it will likely always be in stock (and probably much less costly than the OEM). Racor has a bunch of candidates that will work. Summit and Jegs are good sources once you identify the one, or style, you want.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

[Yukon6.2]

I will echo Nice Find...
I had a 6.2 filter base corrode through a spot on the bottom which would allow for air to be sucked in.I ended up threading a plug into the area.

[chaosrob]

Well I took off the old filter which was not vey old by appearance and replaced it, still leaking somewhere from the base itself. it's a little hard to see where it is leaking from but it is definitely not the lower drain or the supply/return hoses. I have been unlucky in my search for a factory style replacement, all I can find is the spin on. What does everyone suggest if it comes to having to replace the housing? TIA

[chaosrob]

I just decided to go ahead and rebuild this thing, doesn't look overly complicated. Figure if I cannot buy a new one I will just do what needs to be done to this one to make it fuel tight. I am sure it is just a buildup of crap and disintegrated o rings but we shall see.

[DmaxMaverick]

That's a plan, and a good one. If it doesn't work out, and you can't find an OEM style assy, what you need is on the shelf at any HD truck service center and most (real) truck stops. Shopping online may or may not save time and/or money.