99 6.5 to 93 6.5 mechanical

[Dieselguys4life]

Hi guys i have a 99 6.5 that blew up an i can get a complete 93
Motor would i be able to swap them iknow the 93 has mechanical pump and the 99 has computerized


Any info will help out

[sctrailrider]

Yes, just swap IP and the front brackets and censor stuff over from the 99 to the 93... you will need to time it once ya get it running..

[Dieselguys4life]

Ok thanks and thats all it should take to do the swap cuz that 93?
will cost 300 any every thing else is good on mine just not the motor

[JohnC]

You'll need the crankshaft position sensor from the 99. I forget all that's involved, but there's a reluctor wheel and the later damper, maybe the timing cover too.

[Robyn]

OK
Here is a trick that SHOULD get you in the groove..

Get the old engine out and on the floor (stand)

Make a nice clean sharp scribe mark across the top of the timing cover and the ELECTRONIC injection pump flange to mark its location.. NICE SHARP MARK RIGHT WHERE THE IP BOLTS TO THE COVER.

Remove the Fuel injector lines, injectors (They are different) and the IP

Keep the stuff clean (All lines, and ports need to stay spotless)

Keep the injector lines in the pairs they are in..remove in pairs...mark them with tape
1-3 5-7 2- 4 6-8 Make a sketch of where the lines connect to the IP
There are a couple that can be mixed up.
Use your 99 intake manifold with fresh gaskets.


Remove the balancer and the front hub from the old motor (Save this)

Remove the timing cover, the sprockets, gears etc (Save)

The late engine has a different crank sprocket.

Remove the same parts from the 93 engine.

Clean and install the parts from the late engine in reverse order.

Make sure you align the timing marks on the sprockets correctly as well as the gear for the IP

Your parts swap will get your IP timed pretty close. LIKELY close enough that the computer will adjust things and not complain.

NOTE
If the timing chain is loose...replace it..the sprockets will normally be fine.....


Replace the crank position sensor while the cover is off.... (Easier to get the little critter out if it gets stubborn..) use never seaze on the sensor bore and insert the sensor.

Swap any other lines or parts that are different between the two.


While the engines are out...Get the glow plugs out of the early engine and replace with 60G plugs USE NEVER SEAZE ON THE PLUG THREADS.

Much easier to fight these out on the floor than in the engine bay.

And they will be fresh and ready to go to work.



Use your 99 turbo and manifolds as well.

Use all the other sensors off the 99
If the 99 has the dual T stat and hi output water pump use it.
Use all the brackets off the 99.

Pretty much strip the engines and swap the externals from the 99 to the 93 block.

Be careful when you replace the timing cover to seal the pan rail area well (Replace the crank seal in the timing cover)

USE HI TEMP silicone and not a gasket at the rail.

Use gaskets at the block (Light coating of silicone on the surfaces)

Same goes for the water pump.

Be sure to use the oil pressure switch off the 99.

If yours is located in the valley on the 99 you may not see a valley port on the 93 and possibly need to reroute wires to reach the rear oil port.

The oil cooler lines MAY be different sizes (Block ports changed on some blocks in later years.)

Use the proper connectors that fit the 93 block

START UP

Leave the glow plugs out.

Get fuel to the IP (Run the lift pump)
Spin the engine with plugs out until fuel mist appears (It will blow clouds of diesel YUM YUM) (On average it take 30 seconds of cranking)

Note
All electrical wiring needs to be connected before priming

Your now primed with fuel ...install glow plugs

If you leave the RH exhaust manifold off it will be easier to get to the plugs.

Access to the plugs and starter wires are easy with the RH front tire off and the rubber flap off.
Also real easy to get the starter front strap on and secure

IMPORTANT ********

The 99 block used metric bell housing bolts. THE 93 USES 3/8 NC bolts

YOU CAN'T MIX THESE....

Use the flex plate that is was on the 93...but either should be fine.

If the 93 came from a stick shift rig the pilot bearing must come out of the crank.

Pretty easy stuff

Be safe and have fun...

[Yukon6.2]

Keep all the 93 stuff in good condition and it will have a resale value.
The pump and lines for sure,i would be interested if the are for sale.
Others will be interested for electronic to mechanical swaps.
I have a 2000 suburban that needs to be a mechanical truck so i can trust it for road trips into the back country.