Be sure to check your starter bracket!!

[arveetek]

I fell victim to the dreaded broken starter bolts yesterday morning. Went to start the Tahoe, she cranked for just a second, and then "POP, TING, Zing....."... the starter broke loose and was no longer touching the ring gear. Initial inspection revealed a broken bolt laying on the ground... that was the "TING" I heard when the bolts broke and one hit the ground. I didn't realize until getting to work on it last night that both bolts broke off.

The culprit was a broken front bracket. Apparently it has been broken for a while, since the break has rust on it. I failed to inspect it routinely, so it broke and and the starter has been twisting on just the two main bolts for some time until they finally snapped yesterday.

Both bolts broke off up inside the block, but thankfully there was no residual damage to the block or the ring gear. I was really worried that perhaps the outer ear could have been broken off. Dodged a bullet there.

I ordered up a set of ARP starter bolts and a new starter bracket. I'll be sure to check the bracket more regularly from now.

I also ordered a set of LH drill bits, and hopefully the broken pieces come out easy enough.

Casey

[Robyn]

Yes indeed you definitely dodged the big bad bullet on that one.

Carefully drill the bolts and use one of the square tapered type easy out (Screw extractors)

Tap the little tool into the drilled hole and you should be able to remove the bolt pieces easily.

No real need to use the left hand drills...but they wont hurt....


Good luck

Robyn

[DmaxMaverick]

On the subject of drill bits and extractors....

I learned a long time ago, don't use HSS (High Speed Steel) or hardened machine bits, or the square extractors, as a first attempt. They work well, when they work, but sometimes they don't, and often leave a broken plug in the bolt you can't drill out. Save them as a last resort. Use carbon steel bits and spiral extractors (if necessary). They are minimally less effective, but won't leave you with the gas wrench and thread repair as your only remaining option (you can always go back to the HSS bit and square extractor if it fails). Carbon steel bits can almost always be punched out, or heating will often have them fall out. More recently, since I have one, I've found a plasma cutter is much more precise than the gas torch, if it comes to that, and threads can often be saved. The left-hand bits are usually the trick, but you have to start there. Soak with PB Blaster or use your favorite penetrating solution well ahead of time.

[DieselDavy]

I'm with Robin, Casey, but the LH bits might do the whole job. I had my easy-outs ready to go, went to drill the whole with my LH drill bit and my broken bolt backed right out!
(Talk about luck!) Put the correct bolt back in and checked them at oil change time from then on!
Good luck!
d

[Robyn]

Actually...
What Maverick said is good advice.

The secret is...DON'T GO HAWG WILD WITH THE WRENCH WHEN ATTEMPTING TO TURN THE BROKEN BOLT OUT.

Usually these bolts will come out easily....butttttttttttttttttttttt

[arveetek]

The LH drill bits are awesome! It took probably 30 seconds to get the first broken bolt out, and just a little longer on the second one, due to the transmission cooler lines being in the way of the drill. It took much longer to get the starter bolted back into place than it did to remove the broken bolts.

I purchased a small set of Irwin LH drill bits from Amazon for about $25. I read reviews and only purchased a set that seemed to actually work. The cheaper sets had mixed reviews about poor quality bits that broke easily. These bits drilled quickly right into the broken bolts and did not seem to flex under pressure.

Everything is back to normal once again.

Casey

[Robyn]

GOOD DEAL

Did you remove the RH front wheel and go in over the frame to access the wires and the front bracket ????

Super easy to do a starter that way

Check out the pics

Also makes glow plugs easy to change too.

Little added access hole allows easy access to the #8 glow plug and the heater hose too.

Picture access 3 shows all of what you can see and get to with he "WIDDLE MOUSE HOLE"

I made a little aluminum cover to hide the hole and keep the splash out.

[arveetek]

GOOD DEAL

Did you remove the RH front wheel and go in over the frame to access the wires and the front bracket ????

Super easy to do a starter that way

Check out the pics

Picture access 3 shows all of what you can see and get to with he "WIDDLE MOUSE HOLE"

I made a little aluminum cover to hide the hole and keep the splash out.


Yes I did, but I can not access the starter wiring through that gap... maybe your hands are smaller than mine? I have to drop the starter with the battery cable and small wire still attached, and then remove the wiring. Then hook up the wiring on the starter before bolting it back up.

I can access the starter bracket through that gap.

Casey

[ronniejoe]

It's really not that hard to remove the entire inner fender on the right side. I have been doing that for about ten years now whenever I need to gain access to the right side of the engine. It makes R&Ring the turbo, injectors, and glow plugs much easier. Although, I can usually get to the starter wires without removing the inner fender.

[Robyn]

With the rubber flap off the inner fender you can toss a cow in there:D:D

I have installed many starter heavy cables and no issue.
My paws are average size....not tiny at all.

The key is the rubber flap needs to be off...