Idle vibration

[BillCarry]

A while back hit a bad pothole. Broke right motor mount. Was on the road and had mount replaced. Still had vibration at idle. Took to a shop that sounded like it knew this kind of stuff. They replaced the left mount and the trans mount. Vibration got worse. They don't know what the problem is. I got under the motor home and looked at things, but nothing obvious to me. Could sure use some ideas.

[DmaxMaverick]

That's a tough one, without actually hearing and feeling it. Check the exhaust system. It can get tweaked when the engine moves around. Check for damaged/bent pipe, hangers and such. Also check the frame where the engine mounts attach.

[rnash4]

A while back hit a bad pothole. Broke right motor mount. Was on the road and had mount replaced. Still had vibration at idle. Took to a shop that sounded like it knew this kind of stuff. They replaced the left mount and the trans mount. Vibration got worse. They don't know what the problem is. I got under the motor home and looked at things, but nothing obvious to me. Could sure use some ideas.

Have you checked your serpentine belt system for unusual belt gyrations or wobbly pulleys? A hard jolt could have broken or cracked a mounting bracket for an accessory like the AC, pwr steering, alternator.....check the HB and crank pulley, as well as the fan for bent/missing blades. Anything out of balance can cause serious vibrations.

[More Power]

Like rnash suggested... If the broken motor mount allowed the engine to move enough to cause a pulley or engine driven accessory to contact a hard part, something may have gotten bent.

Jim

[BillCarry]

Problem solved by installing GM orig. equipment mounts. Shop that put me on to this said that aftermarket mounts are known for this kind of problem. GM original equipment pars are many times more expensive than aftermarket parts. Live and learn.

[rnash4]

Problem solved by installing GM orig. equipment mounts. Shop that put me on to this said that aftermarket mounts are known for this kind of problem. GM original equipment pars are many times more expensive than aftermarket parts. Live and learn.

Glad you got it figured out/fixed. You can't go wrong with OEM or Acdelco parts IMO. Especially when it comes to electrical type parts, sensors, solenoids, relays, etc.

[Robyn]

YES...AC DELCO.

A while back the AC on the Burb stopped.

A little snooping revealed the the low pressure switch on the Accumulator had died...

Stopped at Napa and grabbed a new switch.

It lasted about 15-20 minutes. Took it back and they replaced it.

That one lasted a day or two.

Hmmmm..I checked the amp draw and the circuit was just fine.

Replaced the switch with an OEM part from GM and that switch is still in there working after a couple years..

I will not use Napa electrical parts.....junk.

The stuff from Autozone seems to be better quality...but AC DELCO is superior all the way....

Sad that we can't get a good aftermarket source these days....


The motor mount was likely made from too hard of a rubber material that transferred the bad vibes to the chassis.

So much stuff is made overseas and the QC is just not there..

[rnash4]

Few years back my AC clutch cycling switch went bad. Got one from Oreilly. Lasted a day. They gave me another one. Was bad out of the box. Put an Acdelco one on. That was 4 years ago and still working. Why do they even sell this junk? Lol.

[Robyn]

I can't answer that question.....
The companies can't make any $$$ if the stuff comes right back....

Napa used to have a good reputation for most replacement parts.

Their brand of electrical parts were a good choice at one time.

Here a few years back their stuff went right in the toilet..

Mostly all made in China now....

[jamine]

Factory motor mounts are no longer available for K1500/2500/3500 6.5 Turbodiesel (4X4) models. Anyone have success with aftermarket mounts?




'95 K2500 7200lb gvw. ext. s/b
w/ Heath Diesel highflow water pump, D-max fan, EGR delete, Stage 1 injectors, GM8 turbo w/ Hurricane 7 wheel