New to 6.2 I need help

[AWG]

I'll try to keep this brief and answer any questions as folks might ask them going foreword.


I have owned a 1989 1 ton 4X4 GM van for many years (love the thing), the 350 was never a cheap date when it came to fuel. It's on it's way out so I purchased a 1989 truck with a 6.2 to replace the gas engine.

That truck ran very well when parked two years ago, the batteries went dead and fuel soured so I wasn't able to just fire it up to run on occasion. So it's been a while since it ran, I finally have time to do the transplant and I thought getting it running in place before pulling it would be helpful.


That's the preamble, now for getting to know a 6.2.

This must have a electric fuel pump as there is a cover where the mechanical pump would be, I'm looking for a proper fuel line so I can pull it and get some fresh fuel to the engine.

(I have a couple new batteries to work with now).



First question: I have been thinking this model engine was pretty much mechanical, please tell me there is a way to operate this without a ECU?
(All kinds of electronic doodads I'm seeing).



Second question:
Where is the fuel line going into the injection pump?
(Sounds like a stupid question but I can't see a thing way down in there).



I am new to diesels, save the work I have done on my old tractor.
Any help or suggestions on this project will be most appreciated.


Thanks very much in advance folks.


~A

[AWG]

I forgot I had purchased a GM 6.2L manual, I answered my own question.


In my application, can I just use a fuel/water filter like I have on my tractor instead of this electronic separator/sensor thingy?

[Robyn]

A RACOR 2 MICRON FILTER WATER Separator will work fine.

Use one that can handle about 40 gallons per hour flow
(Fuel is used to cool the pump and thus the need for the volume)

A 5 micron will work, but the 2 micron will catch more crud.

RACOR 230R2 IS MY FAVORITE unit for these engines

[AWG]

Robyn,


Thanks for your help on the separator.


I'm finding it difficult to get fuel to follow having drained the tank, I understand there is a 'interesting' fuel pick-up system on these.
Can I use the tank, pump and new filter from my old gas system when I get the diesel new or is that a mistake?


Thanks again, ~A

[DmaxMaverick]

Using the gasser fuel pump is not advised. They produce too much pressure (the Diesel requires any pressure above zero under load, and up to around 10 PSI at idle). Add to that, the gasser fuel pumps don't last long pumping the higher viscosity Diesel fuel.

[Robyn]

Use the electric pump that is spec'd for the truck.

Mount it along the frame somewhere close to the fuel tank (These pumps like pushing rather than sucking)

Wire the pump so it receives 12V when ignition is on....but it needs to have a oil pressure controlled circuit that shuts off the fuel when there is zero oil pressure (Safety in case of a wreck)

The oil pressure switch on the 6.2 engine should have 2 circuits in it.
One circuit goes to the gauge...the other runs the fuel pump.

Don't run the 12v power directly through the switch to the pump.

Use a relay to control the power to the pump and the oil pressure switch to run the relay.

Wire in a momentary primer button to prime the system ...filter change etc.

As Maverick mentioned....the gasser pump is a bad choice all the way.

Remove the fuel pump from the sending unit and add a fuel suction tube to go to the bottom of the tank.

OR.... Get a diesel fuel sending unit assembly that fits the vans tank.

NOTE

If there is a compatibility issue with the oil pressure sender on the diesel engine and your van.....use the vans original gauge sender and put a TEE in the oil pressure line at the rear of the engine and add the one from the diesel in to run the fuel pump.

Many ways to get things working right..

Grab the electrical connectors off the salvage truck to use.

GET CREATIVE :D

[AWG]

Hmm, Well this is turning into something more than a simple engine swap.


So I need to (in reality) move the entire fuel system over from the truck to the van, and add the wiring to run all this stuff.
I will need to move the brake booster over as the vacuum system on the van is no longer useful.



What other components do I need to know about to make this work?


Thanks for all this help folks.

[Robyn]

Pretty much covered

Brake booster for a van with the diesel.

Fuel system

Actually the radiator in the van is not big enough to deal with the diesel.

This is not a bang bang done swap.

Doable yesss
Without some mods and work noooooooooooooo

Which tranny is in the van ????

TH 400 OR the 4L80E ???

If the truck has the 4L80E transmission you have another major area to mod to get the tranny talking to the engine.

If the rig has a TH 400 you are in good shape...just need to have the vacuum controller valve on the injector pump to control the vacuum modulator on the tranny.

Likely not, but it could have a 700R4..

Trans throttle pressure cable and bracket needed to control the trans.

A can of worms for sure.

Let us know what tranny is in the van for sure....then we can make more comments that are accurate.

[danieljleach]

Since Diesels don't use a throttle cable, or an actual throttle, You will need the throttle pedal as well, if someone didn't mention that already.

[DmaxMaverick]

Since Diesels don't use a throttle cable, or an actual throttle, You will need the throttle pedal as well, if someone didn't mention that already.

Only since 1994.

[Robyn]

The rig in question is not an electronic.

6.2 never used the DS4 IP

[AWG]

It has a TH 400 w/Gearvender over and under secondary trans.


I forgot to include the radiator, I did plan to bring it over.
No problem though! I have a hack saw. (Just kidding)


Sounds like a dodged a bullet on the accelerator peddle. Phew!

[DmaxMaverick]

......No problem though! I have a hack saw. (Just kidding)


Sounds like a dodged a bullet on the accelerator peddle. Phew!

No. No hacksaw. Still need an accelerator peddle though, whichever it may be. No law requires you mount it to the firewall, though. Get creative!

[Robyn]

You will be good to go.

If the truck had a 400 your set.

If the 6.2 had a 700R4 YOU WILL need a flex plate for the 6.2 as the 700 uses the small converter and the bolt pattern is different.

400 and 4l80 use the same flex plate

Diesels use their own plate and will not swap with any gassers.

you will need the vacuum valve to control the modulator on the 400 tranny

Vacuum pump on the 6.2 feeds a small reservoir and then one line to the valve and one to the modulator.

Adjust to get the shifts firm but not stupid late and hard...


The Chupi cat does not come with the valve... :(

[AWG]

Robyn,
Thanks for the pics, I am sorry to hear the cat is sold separately.


Dmax,

Thinking on it, I guess I could mount the radiator on the front bumper, kinda Mad Max style. No one in North Idaho would care or even notice.

I'll have to ponder the accelerator a bit more.

[Robyn]

My little buddy is part of the family.

Sphynx cats are spendy..

This little girl had some hair (Supposed to be naked kitties) cost me $350
Usually kittens go for a grand or more :eek:

[AWG]

Yikes!
You love your cats.

[AWG]

Hey Folks,
I was just out doing what I could to get this 6.2 to run and I think I need some pointers.


It has been sitting for a couple years, I drained the fuel as it's old, I'm having trouble getting fuel to flow again, what is the trick to priming a 1989 1500 truck?

I understand this can be difficult, I have 5 gallons in the tank, is that enough?



Thanks you

[ronniejoe]

You'll need to open the bleed valve on the filter assy and then force the pump to run to push the air out the bleed. Once the filter is full, the IP should purge itself with some cranking. Just don't lay on the starter too long at a time without allowing it to cool. About 15-20 seconds cranking then 60-90 seconds cool down.

If fuel won't flow with the bleed valve open, there is probably a restriction somewhere in the line from the tank to the filter.