DieselDobro
01-13-2019, 07:38
Question at the bottom of post!
Well...I thought I was on the road to a long and prosperous relationship with a 2009 GEP Optimizer long block purchased from a reputable source and "test ran for compression, oil pressure and leaks". I even had this outfit install new ARP headstands and diamond pre-cups.
Truck is a 1999 GMC K3500 SRW that has been reconditioned front to back. Got a pretty good sum of money in this tuck. Starting watching the oil pressure on my GM 6.5 drop to about 5 psi at hot idle and the transmission was shifting hard and speedo drifting above 65 MPH on the highway. I knew it was time to go into the last domain in this truck...the driveline. Curiously my GM Service Manual specs out 6psi as minimum oil pressure at hot idle. Guess the oil spray pistons really eat a lot of pressure bandwidth compared to flow.
Fast forward to the week before Christmas...
I spent two grueling weeks meticulously pulling my core support, engine, transmission, transfer case for replacement or rebuilding and had it all back together and running New Year's Eve/New Years Day. Even installed a new Rotomaster GM-8 style turbocharger, GM reman injection pump, AC Delco water pump, etc.
Engine block is a 2009 Navistar foundry product and the heads are 2013+ Dalton Foundry heads. All GEP OEM parts. Compression was reported to run about 545psi average and hot idle oil pressure was reported to be 50psi.
After installing two different instrument clusters, (new oil pressure sending unit involved, too),
and plumbing and installing a manual oil pressure gauge I came to the disappointing conclusion that the hot idle oil pressure was in fact around 7psi! Now it takes a while to drop...but drop it does! Starts out about 60psi at idle!
That's not all...
I discovered I had a head stud slightly leaking coolant at an external location. That's not so bad but what about the studs I can't see??
I decided to try adding AC Delco stop leak pellets piecemeal to try and stop the leak. Also discovered a significant amount (half to 1 quart) of coolant in the oil and changed the oil and filter.
One last nail for the coffin... after deciding there was nothing to lose at this point I ran and idled the truck for about 3 hours to circulate the stop leak. I pulled the dipstick to see if I could detect whipped oil/coolant and noticed significant blow-by escaping the dipstick tube! Pulled the oil fill cap and same story!
Well... that all proves it's curtains for this leg of this project.
In the mean time, I am trying to work out a fair resolution with the folks I bought this from. I don't want another used, tested long block because obviously the testing process used on mine was quite lacking in determining the real condition of the engine.
Wouldn't be so bad... but at fair shop rates I have about $2700 in putting a bad long block in my truck and getting another one back in...minimum!
I am considering:
New GEP long block with warranty
New GEP long block without warranty
Rebuilding the bad GEP long block I have now
My question for this group is...will all the internal engine parts spec'd out for a 1999 GM 6.5 work on a 2009-2013 GEP 6.5 diesel?
Well...I thought I was on the road to a long and prosperous relationship with a 2009 GEP Optimizer long block purchased from a reputable source and "test ran for compression, oil pressure and leaks". I even had this outfit install new ARP headstands and diamond pre-cups.
Truck is a 1999 GMC K3500 SRW that has been reconditioned front to back. Got a pretty good sum of money in this tuck. Starting watching the oil pressure on my GM 6.5 drop to about 5 psi at hot idle and the transmission was shifting hard and speedo drifting above 65 MPH on the highway. I knew it was time to go into the last domain in this truck...the driveline. Curiously my GM Service Manual specs out 6psi as minimum oil pressure at hot idle. Guess the oil spray pistons really eat a lot of pressure bandwidth compared to flow.
Fast forward to the week before Christmas...
I spent two grueling weeks meticulously pulling my core support, engine, transmission, transfer case for replacement or rebuilding and had it all back together and running New Year's Eve/New Years Day. Even installed a new Rotomaster GM-8 style turbocharger, GM reman injection pump, AC Delco water pump, etc.
Engine block is a 2009 Navistar foundry product and the heads are 2013+ Dalton Foundry heads. All GEP OEM parts. Compression was reported to run about 545psi average and hot idle oil pressure was reported to be 50psi.
After installing two different instrument clusters, (new oil pressure sending unit involved, too),
and plumbing and installing a manual oil pressure gauge I came to the disappointing conclusion that the hot idle oil pressure was in fact around 7psi! Now it takes a while to drop...but drop it does! Starts out about 60psi at idle!
That's not all...
I discovered I had a head stud slightly leaking coolant at an external location. That's not so bad but what about the studs I can't see??
I decided to try adding AC Delco stop leak pellets piecemeal to try and stop the leak. Also discovered a significant amount (half to 1 quart) of coolant in the oil and changed the oil and filter.
One last nail for the coffin... after deciding there was nothing to lose at this point I ran and idled the truck for about 3 hours to circulate the stop leak. I pulled the dipstick to see if I could detect whipped oil/coolant and noticed significant blow-by escaping the dipstick tube! Pulled the oil fill cap and same story!
Well... that all proves it's curtains for this leg of this project.
In the mean time, I am trying to work out a fair resolution with the folks I bought this from. I don't want another used, tested long block because obviously the testing process used on mine was quite lacking in determining the real condition of the engine.
Wouldn't be so bad... but at fair shop rates I have about $2700 in putting a bad long block in my truck and getting another one back in...minimum!
I am considering:
New GEP long block with warranty
New GEP long block without warranty
Rebuilding the bad GEP long block I have now
My question for this group is...will all the internal engine parts spec'd out for a 1999 GM 6.5 work on a 2009-2013 GEP 6.5 diesel?