02. Crank no start.

[Flomax]

Someone ...... Anyone....... 🙂. Came home after ten days and truck
(2002 )will not start. Cranks over very fast but will not catch. One tank before I left I ran a cleaner through fuel. The service engine soon light came on so I thought that it had dumped some trash in filter. Strange thing was on that tank it got 20.3 mpg where before it was getting 17 mpg. Filled truck up before I left for work. I have changed fuel filter and the base had been previously replaced and it primed up fine. I have even sprayed a wd40/ ether mixture in it and nothing.
Had it scanned and shows no codes however it wouldn

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

First, since you parked it after filling, check the contents of the fuel tank. Make sure it is, in fact, #2 Diesel, with nothing else. You can have quite a bit of gas in it, and it will run if warm, but won't cold start. Put a little fuel in a small container, like a metal bottle cap (outdoors, away from flammable materials), and light a match to it. If it easily ignites, it has enough gas in it to cause issues. If that's the case, check the receipt from your last fill up. If it shows you pumped #2, then it's up to the station to correct their mistake (replace the fuel in your tank with the correct fuel, at their expense), usually by having it towed to a dealership or local shop and have them drain the tank. If your receipt shows gas was pumped, then it's on you to correct it (see This Thread (https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=23142)). If you didn't get/keep the receipt, it may be a good idea to make it part of your future routine. I keep all receipts at least until I've used up all the fuel from that fill. We never know, exactly, what we're pumping into our vehicles. We stick in the nozzle and squeeze, while assuming they did their job.

Fast cranking doesn't assure you the batteries are healthy. These engines crank pretty easy, even with weak batteries. Problem is, while cranking, the voltage may drop enough to prevent the electronics from working properly. Disconnect both batteries and check their individual voltage (immediately, then again after an hour or two). One good and one bad battery can cause all kinds of havoc, especially while cranking. The 10 day idle period is long enough for the batteries to balance, leaving the combined voltage closer to a bad battery, minus parasitic losses. Longer off periods allows a bad battery to corrupt a good battery (making it now, bad). 2-3 weeks of not starting is long enough to take even good batteries to a no-start condition. These late model trucks (all late model vehicles, in general) aren't really off, even when the key is out of the ignition. Many of the electronic systems are active all the time and they will drain the batteries, eventually.

I suggest, while you have the batteries disconnected as above, ground one of the Batt+ cables to the chassis, or clamp the Batt + and - cables together (make sure BOTH batteries are completely disconnected), and leave it there for 30+ minutes. This will default the PCM and erase any anomalies (as well as codes) that may have crept in while you were away. Reconnect both Batt+ cables first, then both ground cables.

I do not recommend using any starting aid (especially ether). The intake path on the new Diesel trucks is very long, and voluminous. Filter -> pipe -> compressor -> pipe -> intercooler -> pipe -> intake plenum -> cylinders. It takes a lot of starting fluid stuff and a lot of cranking to actually do something, if it does, and ether can, and often does, cause damage (not just burned up glow plugs). Even if it lights off once the ether gets there, it doesn't address the original problem. That long cranking period, if it didn't start on its own normally, the short period of very violent combustion cycles rarely allows it to continue to run (if it's -60F, there may be an argument for that, but it isn't).

Also note, you have a block heater. While it won't likely cure anything in your case, it may help get it started while you continue diagnostics. Just plug it in for a couple hours. If you've never used it, be sure to inspect the power cord first (make sure the insulation isn't damaged, which can short to the chassis).

[Flomax]

Thanks for response. Funny thing you mention batteries. After noticing fluctuating voltage I checked batteries and one was showing less than 9 volts. Even after being on charge for 3 days. Ordered batteries ( warranty) , be here this morning. Hope that

[DmaxMaverick]

9 volts = failed battery. I hope it's as simple as that.

[Flomax]

2 hot batteries. No change. Changed crank sensor , no change. When sensor was out looked at the reluctor , looked fine. Tight to base. Scanned twice , only thing is a trans not communicating. On scanner when trying to start shows one spike and then nothing. No other spikes until key is turned off and then on to try to start again. Then one spike again.
Any help is appreaciated. Thx.

[DmaxMaverick]

I don't know what happens (or doesn't) when you have tranny communication issues, but it's probably related if that's the only thing amiss. Back to basics, I think. First, verify the fuel is primed to the HP pump. (again, I know, but it's easy and free). Then, I suggest checking as many electrical connectors you can find, specifically the TCM, PCM, main PCM harness connectors (left side, above/inboard the head), and the tranny/NSBU connectors. Maybe disconnect the batteries and ground the Batt+ cable overnight (it never did anything for me beyond 30 minutes, but it's been suggested by others to default the computers). That's all I have at the moment, but I'll jump back in if I think of something. It can't be too complicated if it started fine before, then didn't.

[Flomax]

Yep. Today is wiring day. Going to check all the grounds , voltages and continuity at main harness and sensors. I

[Flomax]

Is the timing set mechanically or is there any electronically controlled timing. I

[DmaxMaverick]

Timing is mechanically fixed (gear, no chain). If it's off, something's broken.

[Flomax]

Thx for hanging in there. Ok. Pulled dipstick And oil high due to a gallon of antifreeze in bottom of oil pan. Not white or foamy so it entered after truck had last run. Am guessing rotted head gaskets or actual mechanical damage
Haven

[DmaxMaverick]

Wow. That's a bummer. To help you locate the problem, consider that it's unlikely internal to the head, or perhaps the head gasket at all. If that much coolant leaked into the crankcase, it didn't likely go through the cylinder(s), even over 10 days sitting. I'm not saying it can't happen, just that it's much less likely than other suspects. Hydro-locked engines either don't crank, or bend/break rods if it does. With an additional gallon of (stuff) in the crankcase, it should have started an ran, albeit rough. More fluid than that in there, and it can begin blowing seals and breaking stuff. Perhaps it's a good thing it didn't start (you still have your original problem, I think, and they're not likely related).

I'd start with pulling all the glow plugs and pressurize the cooling system. Checking inside the oil filler cap and pipe can indicate how long it may have been in progress (a clean pipe and cap means it didn't run long with coolant in the crankcase). Also check the crankcase vents (little square covers on the valve covers) and draft tube. Just "wet" with coolant indicates very recent, probably before running any significant time, and not up to temp, while foamy white means it's had time and heat cycles to vaporize and condense. You need to find where the coolant came from, and the path it took. The water pump is rarely suspect, and has a double-seal at the shaft. The engine oil cooler can swap fluids. It's less common of a failure, but it's a first suspect, in this case.

Good luck, and keep us in the loop.