Help needed from Sweden

[FunLight]

Hi there everybody. I bought me a -94 Cheyenne with a 6.5 TD a couple of days ago. The a-hole seller has been smart and removed the lightboulb behind the "service the engine soon" warning. Now I found out that the picup has no less than 7 codes that needs fixing. My problem is that I don’t have a clue to what the codes refer to, and how to fix them. Ok, I can read the list of codes in this post, but I don’t know what it is that needs fixing and how to do it, if you guys know what I mean. Ok, here are the codes, and now I hope for mercy from you dieselpower loving guys on this forum. 17. High resolution circuit fault. 18. Same as 17 I think. 32. EGR circuit fault. 33. EGR control pressure barometric sensor circuit high. 35. Injection pulse width error short duration. 45. EGR vent error 78. Turbocharger wastegate solenoid fault. I have invested some serious money buying this picup, and I’m holding both thumbs and toes that there is possible to save this engine without me fileing for personal bankruptcy. Hope for help. Regards from Michael in cold Sweden.

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

I corrected your original post so the entire text would show. The quotations " you were using were "tilted", which fails to show any text that follows. This happens for a few non (US) standard characters (the quotes, in this case), and even some common characters on occasion. It will happen again if you use the same characters.

[DmaxMaverick]

Now that's out of the way....


Start off by checking the vacuum pump operation. At idle, it should pump smoothly and produce at least 22" hg (a new pump can be as much as 26") at the large line at the pump, and about 15" hg at the wastegate actuator. If either is less, or the vacuum is very uneven on a gage (bouncing needle), the pump is likely due for replacement. You could also have any number of leaks, failed EGR solenoid, and/or failed (or incorrectly plumbed) wastegate solenoid.

[ronniejoe]

I agree, the first place to start is to check the vacuum pump. If you disconnect the vacuum harness at the waste gate solenoid, the black line should run to the turbo and the orange line should run to the pump. As Dmax said, you should see about 22" Hg when you connect your vacuum gage to the black line. If there is no or very little vacuum there, then check it at the back of the pump. It's a little hard to get to, but you should be able disconnect the orange tube from the larger tube that goes down behind the pump to the pump inlet. If no vacuum there, replace the pump. Don't use one of the AutoZone or other aftermarket pumps. They don't last. Use an AC-Delco pump. It's about $100 more expensive, but you won't be changing it again right away.

If there is vacuum at the pump, check the vacuum harness for leaks. If no leaks, check the waste gate solenoid. It may be bad.

Once you get the turbo working, the bad news is that you probably need a new injection pump. We can cover that later.

[FunLight]

Now I noticed that my post was complete and got a couple of answers to.
Thank you for that, I will try your suggestions and get back to you asap.

I got a little worried when the injection pump was mentioned, but I will try not to jump ahead of that and do the vaccum check first.

Like Arnold said, I will be back.

[FunLight]

I cant say that Im jumping of joy, but now I found what you guys suspected.
The vaccumpump is totally dead, so now the hunt for a new one has started.

I cant say that parts for US cars are imposible to find in Sweden, but I can guarantee that the parts for my chevy in this country, is at least twice as high as prices in the US for the same part, so this wont be without pain.

Do you have any suggestions to what I can do while Im waiting for another vaccumpump ??
There are 6 additional codes to put out, and I dont like to sit on my hands while Im waiting.

Im also serching for a paper workshop manual for my chevy, preferably complet with the 6.5 L turbo diesel appendix. I have vaccumed ebay and just found one seller of cd manuals for my car, but Id like to have the paper one if possible.
If you dont like to scroll up for what type of chevy manual Im looking for, its for a 1994 Cheyenne C/K 2500 6,5L Turbo Diesel.

Thanx for your help so far.
Mike from Sweden

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't worry about the codes until you get the vacuum system right. Once the new pump is in and the system is working correctly, clear the codes and watch for new codes. Most, if not all, will not likely return. Address what happens, then. If you need something to do in the meanwhile, now is a good time to refresh (clean) as many electrical connections as you can locate, especially all the grounds.

For REAL paper manuals, go to www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com) . You'll find some more pain ($$) there, but they are exactly what you asked for. Your only other alternative is finding a used set, but they are scarce. Much less pain can be had at www.alldatadiy.com (http://www.alldatadiy.com). It's also the real thing, but it's not a paper version.

As an alternative to your current direction, depending on the constraints of your local emission system legal requirements, you can completely abandon the vacuum system and install a manual wastegate control. This will also eliminate the EGR function, but it removes the need for a vacuum pump. To do this, you'll need an upgrade ECM chip (or the computer will continue to complain), shorter belt, and a little elbow grease. The total cost to do this may be similar or less than just the cost of a vacuum pump in your area. I don't usually recommend this due to legal requirements in the US, but you may not be subject to the same.

[JohnC]

Your EGR system is also vacuum operated, so you've covered more than one code. I think your others are injection pump related. Others who are more up on them will probably chime in. I'd suggest you try a heavy dose of a good fuel treatment for starters. Also, the '94 pumps were originally quite problematic, so you want to be sure yours has all the available updates installed.

Should you end up needing a pump overhaul, you might want to look into converting from the electronic pump to a mechanical one, assuming your government would allow that.

[Robyn]

Vacuum pump

EBAY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-Diesel-vacuum-pump-GM-6-2L-6-5L-88-95/221198349512?hash=item338072f4c8:g:NSoAAOSwKitU2CT Y:sc:USPSPriority!97132!US!-1:rk:3:pf:0

[FunLight]

I have to say that all of you are fantastic. !!!! Robyns post resulted in one vacuumpump ordered and soon to be on its way. It was well over $150 cheeper on ebay than it was in Sweden, not counting in customs dreadful fees.

I spent 2,5 hours today serching for that pump on ebay, but the fact is that I dont know what to look for regarding my picup. Chevrolet has a lot of models, and Im not sure what model and type describes my car in the check compatibility lists.

It is a 1994 chevy cheyenne 6.5L c/k 2500, but that is not what it says in the auctions.
There is silverados and what not, but strait up name, engine, year is not serchable anywere on the internet, if you know what I mean.

If any of you could write down exactly what name and numbers to serch for in the future, I would kiss your feets to. Now I will go look for the manual bookplaces that DmaxMaveric recommended, and hopefully find me some books to consult in the future, even though it is more fun to ask the brain trust on this forum.

Thanx, and Ill be back later.

[FunLight]

Hi. This is just a small comment of what I found. The pump was a challenge to remove, and even moore to get the belt disc to let go of the shaft.
During this time I found out that the pump was working after all, the meter shows the 22 hg you pros here recommended.

I dont know why there was no vacuum before when I started the engine, but I suppose there was a leak someware that I missed. The white plastic pipe from the pump to the solenoid could be the guilty part, because it cracked and was very brittle when I disconnected it from the fittings, so I replaced it with a new simular pipe.

Im not sorry that I spent some cash for a new pump, this one is really ugly with a lot of rust all over and it would probably brake down soon anyway. Since Im not a picking lint from my bellybutton type of guy, Im changing the corroded locks i the doors wile Im waiting for the new pump, a challenge in it self.
Have a nice day from Mike in Sweden

[FunLight]

Hi again.
While I wait for the pump from the US Im fiddling with the small stuff on the car.
Since it wants to be difficult to start, I took care of the exiting task of removing the glowplugs and test them and the feeding current.

The plugs seems to work just fine, but I have some worries about the feed.
If I test direct on the batteries I get around 13-14 volts, but when I test the feed through the cables I get from 10,7 to 11,9 volts.
Is that enough to work the plugs, and why dont they get the same current as the batteries can deliver ???

When Im turning the key the glowlight works fine, but when the starter turns the engine, it will act like a petrol engine that hasnt been started for a long time. It ignites on a couple of cylinders first, and then the cylinders adds on one after another until it suddenly starts and all cylinders kick in.
I hope you guys get my swenglish rambling and bad grammatics, but I bet your Swedish is just as bad. Lol.....

[Robyn]

Test the plugs with a jumper cables to the battery.

Clip the outer jacket to the Negative cable and then touch the spade to the plus cable.

The glow plug should be red starting at the tip in only a few seconds.

****Do not glow more than 10 seconds or so****

If the plugs do not glow or only glow in the center and or take a long time to get hot they are junk.

60G plugs are the newest and best plugs, and will tolerate more abuse.

What is in the engine???? (Should be numbers on the plugs near the hex portion)


Sounds like several plugs are bad.

Your grammar is just fine... I can follow what your saying :)

[FunLight]

Thanks for your answer Robyn, and I have done just what you propose to all plugs, and they all glow nicely in a few seconds.

It was hard to see the markings on the plugs, but I did at least see the AC Delco name.
I also think that they was, if not spanking new, at least not that old, and they all loosened without any trouble or brokened plugs.

All the cables was also ok without any shield breakage or exposed wireing, so I dont know whats wrong, if anything.

My only theory is that they dont get the full voltage and therefore dont get hot enough during the glowing time. I even tried to disconnect the temperature censor in the crossover pipe from the thermostat, just to see if the glowingtime was increased, witch it was not.

I have another question that I hope someone recognice and know what to do with.
When I drive the picup in around 55 mph, something starts to vibrate like when you drive on this painted warninglines on the roads. I dont know if you have these in the US, but here we have those as sidelines on the highways, designed to wake up any tired or sleepy driver.

The only way to get this vibration to stop, is to slow down a little. At first I thought it was a bad joint or something, but the car has recently passed the yearly checkup all our cars has to go thru before its ok to drive it on our roads, and any unwanted movements in all joints would have been discovered and the owner would have been forced to fix it if he want to use it.

Any moore ideas would be very welcome.
Regards from Mike in a grey, wet, and semicold Sweden.

[Robyn]

Poor starting can also be a result of the injectors being in bad shape.

Low pop pressure and a sloppy stream rather than a nice fine cone of fuel mist is common as the injectors get a lot of miles on them.

Pull the injectors out and get them tested.

Having pop pressures that are very close to each other is important to keep cylinder to cylinder timing very close (makes for a much smoother running engine)

The bad vibes you are feeling could be several things.

A TIRE BALANCE ISSUE
A TIRE WITH A BROKEN BELT INSIDE CAUSING A BULGE
A BAD U JOINT ON THE DRIVE SHAFT

I would look at tire balance first.

[ronniejoe]

I know we are putting off the other codes for now, but, you have several codes that indicate injection pump issues. These issues can cause hard starting, especially if the fuel solenoid is sticking open intermittently. If the pump is worn internally, it might not be generating adequate pressure at start up.

As Robyn said, the first place to look for your vibration is wheel balance. Next, jack each wheel up and rotate the wheel. Look for bulges or knots or out-of-round spots. This is an indication of a tire coming apart inside and cause speed sensitive vibration.

[FunLight]

Thanks for your ansvers, but its not vibrations from the tires.
Like I said, if you picture that the sidelines on the road, I cant show you the lines here because everything I write other than letters dissapear, but think of driving on horisontally painted sidelines a half inch thick and seven inches wide, and three inches apart.

Like a stack of equals, as in two plus two equals, and paint equal letters in a row with thick paint and then drive over them.
The whole car is vibrating and sounds like driving on a washingboard.

I hope that you could picture what I try to describe with my really bad description.
Anyway, Im sure that the tires is not the cause of the vibrations, and I could be wrong, but my cheyenne can not be the only picup truck with this vibrations, so I was hopeing that someone here could recognise the problem and have a solution for it.

Anyway, thank you all for putting up with this Swedes weard rambling, and for your suggestions of fixes.

[Robyn]

I am still thinking as Ron described...A TIRE THAT'S GOT A BULGE

The type of bad vibes you are talking about takes a hefty problem to shake to this extent.

A drive shaft vibration (bad u joint) USUALLY will be a far less violent thing.

The one possibility would be a BENT DRIVE SHAFT...but this type of issue would normally shake even at lower speeds.

One possibility could be a drive shaft that had a replacement yoke welded on and it was not placed in PHASE.

A situation like this can shake pretty bad and will not show up at lower speeds as much.

Now...

A different possibility...
Does the front end seem to wobble back and forth (Steering)

An alignment issue can cause DEATH WOBBLE where the front wheels will hunt back and forth.

This is usually caused by a TOE OUT condition. NORMAL TOE IS 0-1/16" or something of this nature.

If the vibration seems to be and UP-DOWN thing, then I am still thinking TIRE/S

[ronniejoe]

The only way to get this vibration to stop, is to slow down a little.

Does it get worse if you speed up?

[FunLight]

When I bought the car and was driving it home, I remember thinking that it was very nice to drive. With the big tires and a semiruff pattern on them, I was expecting a lot of tire noice and maybe a bit wobbly on the road.

There was nothing of that, it was very easy to steer and run steady on the road up to ca 90 kmh, around 55 mph where it started to vibrate hard and made a loud noice of a stonecrusher.

I noticed that it did not happened in exactly the same speed, but started around 53 up to 57 mph, and stopped directly if I eased up with the throttle, and came back again if I increased the gas.

In between it run smootly without any vibrations or sounds, and the problem appears with a very distinct on and off feeling, and not increasing with the speed. It really feels and sounds like a mechanical problem, so I asked on this forum in hope that someone recogniced it from before.

Its maybe a little off topic, but I want to tell you of a Swedish guy that had a big reportage in a Swedisk car magazine.
He is programming the chip in 6.2 and 6.5 engines in the most amazing way, and shaves the time 0 to 100 kmh from 17.2 to 9.6 seconds in another old 1994 truck. Other advantages is lower milage and overall a nicer drivability.

Im going to order a chip tomorrow, and it dont cost moore than 388 us dollar with the exchange course of today. A nice thing is that the customer do not need to send the box to him like a lot of other chipsellers, but the number on my chip is enough for him.

If anyone is interested in this guy and want moore info about the chip, you can send me a pm and I will try to translate from the magazine, and if you want, help you to get your own chip.

[ronniejoe]

Beware.

[FunLight]

Beware.

I dont understand, beware of what ??

[Robyn]

In regards to the bad vibes.

Check the front CV joints and the rear drive shaft joints.
Also check the front wheel bearings.

A failing CV and or a bearing can make nasty noises.

Jack the front wheels up.
Grab the top of the tire and push in toward the frame.

Any slop is not good.

A bearing thats going away can make terrible noise and thumping noise.

Big tires are tough on these trucks as the front bearings are not all the durable.

I assume this rig as a 4x4

[FunLight]

In regards to the bad vibes.

Check the front CV joints and the rear drive shaft joints.
Also check the front wheel bearings.

A failing CV and or a bearing can make nasty noises.

Jack the front wheels up.
Grab the top of the tire and push in toward the frame.

Any slop is not good.

A bearing thats going away can make terrible noise and thumping noise.

Big tires are tough on these trucks as the front bearings are not all the durable.

I assume this rig as a 4x4

Jupp, its a quad drive. You got a point there Robyn, I will try what you suggest and see if any bearings or joints are moving in a non desired way. Personally so does it feel like a worn and failing crossjoint, or whatever you call it in english.

Big tires is maybe mostly in my eyes since I never owned anything with larger tires before, this truck has 16 inch wheels and feels gigantic. My second car thats being replaced with this when Im done, is an ordinary Astro van with ordinary wheels.

I dont know the original size of wheels to this truck, so I dont know if 16 inches is that big or not.
By the way, what is the CV you write about, since I dont have any litt for this truck yet, Im not so sure of what the different parts are named.

At Ronniejoe.
I think you are on to something regarding the starting problems. I could be wrong, but should this truck have two diesel pumps ?? The seller was saying that one of the pumps did not work, so he bought a cheep pump and mounted it under the passenger side and made a power connection to a breaker on the panel. Could it be that this cheap pump is to small and dont have the muscle for reaching the right diesel pressure, and that could be the reason for the hard starting ???

[Robyn]

16 inch is a standard size for these rigs.

Probably 245/75 x 16 or ???

The CV joint is the universal joint in the boot by the front A arms where the axles come through to the wheel.


The drive shaft universal joints or crosses are the on the drive lines.

The thumping could very well be WHEEL BEARING going bad.
These are a cartridge type ball bearing and when they fail the bearings can start to climb on each other and bind up.

I have never seen one come totally apart, but they can get pretty noisy and make nasty thumps.

The bearings are held in with 4 bolts from the back side of the assembly.

DO NOT use a 12 point socket on these, as the bolts are very tight and the corners will round over.

Use a 15 mm impact or a 6 point.

I had to turn down an impact socket to get it to fit into the recess where the bolt heads are.

Getting the assembly off is not hard, but takes a bit of work.

The bearing and the rotor come off in one chunk.

After you get the assembly off you can remove the lug studs and separate the rotor from the bearing flange.

Just use a piece of brass plate and a good sized hammer and tap the lug studs out.

As long as the studs are good just reuse them, same for the rotor.

Remove the retaining bolts on the disk brake caliper and hang it up out of the way with a rope/wire or ??? to keep the hose from damage...no need to unhook the brake hose.

[ronniejoe]

At Ronniejoe.
I think you are on to something regarding the starting problems. I could be wrong, but should this truck have two diesel pumps ?? The seller was saying that one of the pumps did not work, so he bought a cheep pump and mounted it under the passenger side and made a power connection to a breaker on the panel. Could it be that this cheap pump is to small and dont have the muscle for reaching the right diesel pressure, and that could be the reason for the hard starting ???

The factory configuration for these trucks has an electric solenoid type lift pump mounted inside the frame rail under the driver's door. This pump pulls fuel out of the tank and supplies pressurized fuel through the filter to the inlet of the injection pump. This supply pressure should be about 4 psi.

If this pump is not working, then the transfer pump inside the injection pump has to pull fuel all the way from the tank, through the filter with vacuum. This causes hard starting and can cause intermittent shut off by sucking air into the system. It is also hard on the injection pump internals.

As for my beware comment, there are many charlatans out there who make outlandish claims about horsepower gains from programming changes. Most of these are bogus. I operate if not the highest output, one of the highest output 6.5s around and it takes more than a chip to get there.

The reason that you don't have to send your computer in to be reprogrammed is that your truck is a 1994 OBD1 system. 1994 and 1995 trucks are OBD1 with a removable EPROM. This EPROM is where the calibration data is stored for the program and is all that needs to be changed to change fuel rate, boost, timing, etc. On 1996 and newer trucks, the control system is OBD2. This controller does not have a removable EPROM, so the whole computer must be sent in for reprogramming or must be exchanged to change calibrations.

[FunLight]

Ok, here I am again. Ive been quiet a couple of days and trying to sort the combined brakelight and worklight in the back of the roof to work, but end up pulling my hair.
However I will take a tour on my trusted roll board and check all bearings and joints, and see if there is any problems down under.

There should not be any problems because like I think I mentioned erlier, the truck has been on the yearly checkup just weeks ago.
To drive on the roads here and to not get a big fine and maybe even loose your license, the car has to do this top to bottom checkup yearly, and amongst a long list of tests they put the whole front and rear end to the test with a pneumatic twisting board.
If there is any bad bearings or joints they will find it and tell you to fix it, and the last checkup on this one was ok, but I will double check anyway.

Regarding the chip I hear you Ronniejoe, Im not easy to fool in any way, but with this chip there is a lot of data and a full two sides report in a well known Swedish magazine, and that would not be there if it was some sort of scam.
However I ordered myself one of those chips, so If you guys want to know I could give you a report later when Ive got a chance to test it. That is if you are interested to know.
Over and out, and now I will go back to my dear beaklight and cables with changing colors.

Oohhhh, I forgot to report that the new vacuum pump finally arrived today, so in a short wile I will be able to start the truck up and see if there is any improvement and maybe a bit fewer codes to sort out.

[FunLight]

http://www.worldkustom.com/november-2014/11-2-put-your-old-diesel-chevy-on-steroids/

I hope this link works. I found out that you could choose english on the magazine site with the chip I ordered, so have a look and decide for your self if you need to beware.

[FunLight]

Damed I hate electrical problems, you fix one and another pops up.

However, I got the new pump in place and now the codes are all gone, exept for one.
Now it flashes code 18, and the weird thing is that it just flashes 18 and nothing else, and do so indefinitly. I gave up watching it after it flashed the same code like 17 times.
I thought that it should start with 12 three times, and then the fault code, and finish of with 12 again.

One of Code 18 symptom could as far as I understand, be a hard start, and that sounds like my truck. There is a couple of tests I could do, but I read that debree in the diesel could be the cause.

When I was dealing with the seller he said that the truck had been unused for a time, and the diesel in the tank smelled badly. After that he filled some fuel, and I had to put some in for my jurney home to, but theoreticly I guess that there could be some junk left in the system to mess with the sensor in the pump.

Is my theory plausable or do I got it wrong, and is there anyone with a smart fix to the problem ??

[FunLight]

Now I pressure tested the external pump under the drivers seat, and its pumping the fuel with a pressure slightly over 10 psi. That takes care of the fuel pressure issues, or what do you think ?

There is just one thing that bugs me. On my second ride, Chev Astro 1995 the pump works until the pressure is up, and then it stoppes until the pressure goes down when the engine starts, and then it starts again.

The external pump does not stop until I cut of the power. I dont know much of fuel pumps, but could it be some internal pressure switch in some pumps, and none in this, equals a cheep pump ?

I ordered a couple of diesel additives from Winn today, since the truck has been parked for a unnown amount of time, it could be some stuff growing in the tank, and I hope to flush those out with a biocide, and maybe clean the injectors at the same time.

[Robyn]

The code 18 is "PUMP CAM REFERENCE PULSE ERROR"
This signal is generated by the optical sensor in the Injection pump, and is very important.

10 psi pressure is too high for the system....4-5 psi is the spec measured at the inlet to the injection pump.

Has the electric pump on the frame been replaced by some other type ???

The fuel pump should not run continuously unless the engine is running. (Safety thing)
When the key is turned to START (Starter activated) the pump should operate and when the engine starts the pump should continue to run.

The electric pump should not operate with key on/engine off...or if it does, only for a short time.

PICTURE PLEASE :)

[FunLight]

The code 18 is "PUMP CAM REFERENCE PULSE ERROR"
This signal is generated by the optical sensor in the Injection pump, and is very important.

10 psi pressure is too high for the system....4-5 psi is the spec measured at the inlet to the injection pump.

Has the electric pump on the frame been replaced by some other type ???

The fuel pump should not run continuously unless the engine is running. (Safety thing)
When the key is turned to START (Starter activated) the pump should operate and when the engine starts the pump should continue to run.

The electric pump should not operate with key on/engine off...or if it does, only for a short time.


PICTURE PLEASE :)

Yup, I agree.
First the optical sensor, that was the thingy I ment in my post. As far as I understand there is a chance that I can salvage the sensor with this expensive bio additive. Im thinking of letting the 10 psi empty the tank, and then fill it up with fresh diesel and this additive, and then hold my thumbs that it will clean up the sensor enough to work properly again.

I read that this sensor costs mucho dineros, so if the chemicals would do the job........

Ok, could I connect a pressure regulator on the line from the 10 psi pump, and that way restrict the fuel pressure to 4 psi ?? The pump is replaced by the previously owner, and he said that it was a cheap knockoff, and is started manually with a switch in the panel.

On my Astro the pump start when I turn the key to power on, and turn itself off when it reaches the right pressure. I was thinking that I would connect the power from the key, and add something that turns the pump off as soon it reaches the right pressure, or is that an expensive and dumb way to go ?? I guess that a new correct pump for my truck is expensive, but a homemade solution could also be costly, so what to do. ??

Oh, what do you want a picture of ?? Not my fair apperance I hope ??

[Robyn]

The original fuel pump system used a relay in the box on the RH side of the firewall to activate the pump when the key is turned to CRANK. (LEFT HAND DRIVE RIGS)

Once the oil pressure came up the oil pressure switch on the rear of the engine just about under the glow plug relay would power the fuel pump.

YESSSSSSS, get the fuel pressure to 4-5 psi

The pump also needs to be able to move about 30-40 gallons per hour.

Cool fuel keeps the injection pump cool too, and hence the reason to move that much fuel

[FunLight]

I definitly feel lucky to get your help Robyn. Your well of knowledge of my engine seems bottomless, so thank you. Now enough with the praise.

I will dive in and take a look at the pump in place, and yesterday I found what I think is the original pump. Its a tubelike thing with in and out pipes and a electrical connection. I did a ohm check and that was telling me that the pump was a gonner.
Ill be back when I have moore info.

[Robyn]

Thank you..

Here is a link to a good picture of what the original pump should look like...

https://usdieselparts.com/i-18878335-fuel-transfer-pump-94-99-gm-6-5l.html

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
If it is the optical sensor that is bad you can change it yourself.
I did change one on my truck and had no issues.
I followed the directions that someone else had posted,it may have been Casey.
i salvaged one from an old pump,and got lucky that it was still good.
Thomas

[FunLight]

Well, if the original pump look that way the broken pump I found is also a aftermarket copy, and not even a good one.

Now I think I found the relays under the cover right next to the cooling fluid container, as Robyn mentioned. There is two relays there, one small with two wires, and a bigger one with five wires. I dont know witch one, but takes a chance with the bigger one and hope its the right one.

If someone could explaine moore in detail how I will find the oil pressure switch that activates the pump I would be happier. Its a snake pit with cables and connections in between the engine and the firewall. Some previosly owner has been there and teared down everything without plugging it back in the holes the fastening plugs should be in.

Im going down on my board to check the pump and cables now, and I really hope that they did not cut the original cables when they was connecting the aftermarket pump.
As usual, Ill be back.

[Robyn]

The oil pressure sender is to the right of center (looking in from the front of the engine bay.

The switch screws into the top of the block near the rear of the head near the flange where the trans. bolts on.

Almost directly under the glow plug controller

Here is a piccy of the 6.5 .....THE BLACK ARROW IS POINTING AT THE OIL SENDING UNIT,

I had the fitting wrapped with silver duct tape that can be seen where the arrow is pointing

Normally there is a brass angled fitting that threads into the block and the switch threads into the adapter fitting..

[FunLight]

I think there will be two pictres of the pump and the connections, hopefully
Its a Edelbrock mini pump, but it still got a 10 psi pressure so its quite powerful concidering the size. Im a little depressed since I didnt find anything that looked like original cabels.

Diving down under the truck includes some back pain, but I will have another look after taking some pain medz.

[Robyn]

Here is another good rear shot of the 6.5.

BLACK ARROW pointing at the oil pressure switch location

[FunLight]

I have to ask before I do something potential stupid.

Since my 1995 Astro is running like a tractor with what I think is a vacuum leakage. I can hear a high pitch sound right before the 700 automatic changes gears.

Because of that I want to take out the Cheyenne and use it for daily drives to the store and to work, but I need to know If there is a risk to ruin something in the engine considering the pressure from the pump, and the fault code 18 ???

I would be really bummed if I managed to ruin something after pumping money and work in to the truck.

[Robyn]

The code is not a big worry...but the 10 psi is/could be a concern.

[ronniejoe]

http://www.schoolcraftpowertrain.com/Pictures_&_Data/IM001165.JPG

The oil pressure sender/switch is mounted on a 90 deg fitting. It is seen just above the second from left engine stand attaching arm in this photo. The other one seen under the intake is associated with Kennedy Diesel's lift pump control harness. This port location is not available on blocks prior to 1996. This image is of a 2000 block going into a 1995 Suburban.

As for your lift pump, it also looks like someone plumbed in an inline fuel filter ahead of the lift pump. If the in-tank strainer is in place, this filter is not necessary and makes it harder to pull fuel from the tank. However, since you say that this lift pump is making 10 psi, it must be pulling plenty.

I would probably drive the truck as is without worrying too much about the lift pump over pressure situation for a short while, but would change back to the factory style pump as soon as possible. It has been running this way anyway.

With DTC 18 set, the computer goes into back up fuel mode and you can expect "rough idle and poor performance". That can also lead to hard starting.

[DmaxMaverick]

The DTC 18 code won't cause any damage. It will cause the pump to default timing, which is essentially harmless. It may not run as well during, so get that fixed at your soonest convenience.

The fuel pressure isn't a concern, as long as it stays positive at higher demands. The original Stanadyne spec is 4-16 PSI, so no problem with 10. Typical OEM pumps run 4-6 PSI. Gasser fuel pumps generally drop pressure very quick once demand increases, which may be a greater concern. As long as it doesn't go into a suction state, it won't hurt anything. Maybe check the pressure once you get a load on it. I'd ditch all the gasser fuel filters, though. They don't flow #2 oil well, especially when it gets colder (Sweden may be in the tropics, but I wouldn't chance it....). Any properly rated filter assembly in the 10 micron neighborhood is much more adequate (visit your local tractor supply).

[FunLight]

Ohh my ....... I missed that the thread multiplied in to a second page. I will respond to all of you tomorrow, but now Im a little bummed and tired over a starter that desided to stop working.
The copper connection for the plus cable was spinning, and it seems like it lost connection with the inside. It looks like I have to pick up the tools and get dirty again tomorrow.
Best wishes from tropical ????? Sweden. Its snowing outside right now.

[Yukon6.2]

You can pretty much fix the starter yourself,if it is the non gear reduction/old style.

The soliod on the old style starters can be taken apart carefully,cleaned and broken parts replaced.But you need replacement parts,which most old style GM starters can provide.
I have not been inside a new style one yet.

[FunLight]

Im slowly sliding in to personal ruin with this truck.
Its not cheap to fix old used cars like this, and the latest cost is a new starter and diesel pump.
The data on the pump is 9.5 to 14 psi and the flow is 35 gph, and as far as I understand that would be good enough for my truck. I attached a photo of the new pump to this post, and it looks very similar to the pump that Robyn posted a pic of.

The starter smells really bad of burnt electronics, and in the back of the solenoid its been hot enough for the soldering on one of the two copper cables inside, to melt. It may be possible to salvage, but Im tired and want to get the truck out of the garage, so I ordered a new one.

Sooo, now I can check two moore things of the list, and if nothing else brakes or burning up the truck is ready to at least drive to work.
Despite of the code 18 I will take it out and hope that the magic bottles from Wynn would do the trick.

I beleve that Wynn is an American brand, so you probably heard about them. I dont know what you guys think of there snake oil for cars, but I ordered three different ones.
Diesel injector cleaner
Diesel system treatment
Fuel Biocide, that is suppose to clean the sensor and fix the code 18 if possible.
What do you think, money well spent or a total waste ???

[Robyn]

Yessssssss,,,Old rigs can turn into a money $$$$$ pit...been there done that:(

The pump in the pix looks like whats needed

[Yukon6.2]

Yessssssss,,,Old rigs can turn into a money $$$$$ pit...been there done that:(

The pump in the pix looks like whats needed
But with the price of new trucks....
I know that i would invest the money in a older truck if i needed a specific truck as apposed to spending 100K for one.The fact that i have enough parts to keep my old ones on the road till they take my license helps me sleep at night.
I have never spent that kind of money on a truck that will make money for me,so i definitely will not spend that kind of $$$ on one that basically hauls my butt around.

[FunLight]

I got my new starter and mounted it today, and boy did it spin. My earlier hard starting does not feel like an issue anymoore since the motor is starting alot faster now.

Unfortionally everything did not go smothly, as I should have expected.
First under a short testrun the low coolant warning lit up, and when I got home the engine had dumped all of the new coolingfluid I just filled it up with, and the reason to that was the bottom hose that slipped of the connection pipe.

I got the truck back into the garage, fixed the hose and refilled it with another batch of glycol and water, then I parked it outside on idle when it suddenly died. I tried to restart it again with no luck, popped the hood an discovered a dieselshower all over the engine from a hole in the hose used to evacuate the water from the diesel.

I had a trying time to stop the leak with 4 hose clamps and one 8 mm bolt, so that hose really needs to be changed. I would do that right now if I knew how to get to the inlet side of the hose.
It goes down under the manifold and disapear, so if anyone could tell me where to find the other end of the hose, and how to get to it, I would be a lot happier.

I really want my new lift pump asap to. I took a combined testrun and getting a pizza, and when I left the pizzajoint and got out on the road home, the engine died, again and in the middle of the road. I jumped out and popped the hood again when I relized that it was no sound from the pump, back in to the truck, on with the pump and it started right away, so you could say that I dont want a switch on the panel for the pump, and I dont like cold pizza.

[DmaxMaverick]

Yeah. Cold pizza is only good the next morning. With warm, flat beer (breakfast of champions....a long time ago).

The hose that goes to the T valve up front starts at the bottom of the fuel manager (filter assembly) behind the intake. It is the water (bottom) drain for the filter. It gets full lift pump pressure, as long as the pump is running. Just replace that hose with new and it shouldn't give you any more problems.

[Robyn]

Trick

Remove the bolts on the fuel manager to get a bit of working room.

Use a short piece of threaded rod and a couple clamps to connect the new hose to the old one at the front end of the engine.

Remove the hose at the fuel manager and then pull the new one down under the manifold as you pull the old one out. :D

I have had that same smelly shower before myself.

My hose split at the T valve and I was able to clamp it off with a vice grips and at least get home.

BIG MESS AND STINKS. :(:(

When you replaced the starter, did you connect the front support that bolts from the starter to the side of the block ??

Those MUST be on there or the starter WILL eventually snap one of the main bolts off OR BREAK THE BLOCK.
The support can be accessed by removing the RH front tire/wheel and going in across the frame by removing the rubber weather flap.

Sit on a bucket by the hub and easy to do. **** The Red bolt head is where the front bracket bolts on ****

Here is some good info
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=43423

[FunLight]

Thanx to you booth, now I know what to do. If I had used a bit of brain power I should have been able to figure out where the other end of the hose went, but I get this strange pain in my head every time I try.

Robyns trick with the hose will be useful, and the warning was priceless. When I was reading that, it hit me that I had to loosen the bolt that holds the bracket to the block, just to get the bolt to find the threads in the starter, BUT as expected I forgot to tighten the block bolt again, so that will be next on my long list.

I took it out for a spin yesterday and it was running ok, the only thing that was off was that the engine was reving up and down when I put it in drive. It got better after a while so I suppose that it was cold.

Another thing is that before I changed the pump you could hear the turbo spinning, but now thats almost gone. My guess is that the wastegate was always open before I got a working pump, and all pressure and noice got out via the exhaust, and now its not.

[Robyn]

You are gaining on it.

One thing at a time, do it right and you will not need to deal with it again for a long time.

The thing with the engine reving up and down was likely due to AIR having gotten into the injector pump during the issue with the hose.

Once the air was purged out the reving will quit...

Keep us in the loop...:):):)

[FunLight]

You are gaining on it.

One thing at a time, do it right and you will not need to deal with it again for a long time.

The thing with the engine reving up and down was likely due to AIR having gotten into the injector pump during the issue with the hose.

Once the air was purged out the reving will quit...

Keep us in the loop...:):):)

Yes I will, thanx.
Anyway, about the engine reving up and down, if the air was purged out the truck should work normally after a spin, but it does not.

When I went to the store today it was doing the same thing again when it was cold.

The throttle is also extremely sensitive, especially when its cold.

By the way, the bolt I forgot is now properly fasten so the new starter wont brake free from its place.
Thank you for that, Robyn.

[Robyn]

May be air in the line from the tank/pump

Connect a clear plastic hose to the return line that heads back to the tank from the engine.

Loop it up to where the wipers are by the windshield and then connect back to the other line.

This will give you a view on what is going back to the tank.

ANOTHER test is to put a clear tube in the feed line coming from the filter to the injection pump.

Clamp well and run the engine.

If you have any bubbles you need to find where the leak is...

Between the tank sock and the lift pump inlet would be likely.

Any air bubbles will drive these things nuts..

[FunLight]

Ahhhh, that may just be the problem. When I took the pic of the Edelbrock pump I noticed that the fuel line was wet on booth sides of the pump. I was going to fix that when I got the new pump.

On the new pump there is threads, and on the small Edelbrock there are just clamps. Concidering my problems getting the water evac hose sealed, I should have thought of that possibility.

Now I have a couple of new worries. When I was out yesterday and tested the 4x4, the oil pressure went from 50 percent to 25 percent on the meter. I checked the stick and the level was the same as the last time I looked.
I bought oil but not yet a filter so Ive planned a change, but since Ive noticed that the present oil seems a little thin I have to ask what viskosity for all year use would be best, quality would also be good to know, synt, semisynt or just a mineral oil ??

Another thing is if I floor it, the engine starts to run really bad on the final 25-30 percent of the throttle. It probably have something to do with the fault code 17 and 18 thats the last of the 8 codes I had when I began the rescue of my truck, but I wanted to check that with the braintrust on this forum anyway.

It has fallen around two decimeter of snow tonight, so now Im taking the beast out for a spin with the four wheel drive connected.

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't worry about codes or chase running issues until you get the fuel delivery in check. Any air getting into the system can cause any/all of what you're experiencing.

Oil choice and performance is simple. Any x-40, synthetic or conventional, modern Diesel-rated oil (CF-4 and later) is sufficient. Avoid any x-30 wt. oils. 15w-40 conventional/mineral is the standard, while 0/5w-40 synthetic is recommended for less-tropic (really cold) environments. 10w-30 conventional, and 0/5/10w-30 synthetic oils, regardless of fuel compatibility, typically cause increased consumption between changes.

Oil pressure is subjective, but consistent with traditions. Allow 10 PSI (or suitable conversion) per 1000 RPM's as a base line, under the worse of conditions. The 50% drop in pressure from a cold start to operating temp is quite typical. More is not necessarily better, as there are too many variables to quantify it. Also note, the instrument panel gages are notoriously inaccurate, and should only be used as a means to track trends. If you're concerned about it, install a quality mechanical gage. Spend your worries more on keeping the oil in the system, rather than what it's doing while it's there. Check, and continue to monitor, all external components of the lubrication system, most specifically the oil cooler and oil cooler lines. If they leak, address that earlier rather than later. Many quality aftermarket oil cooler line options are often preferred over (leak-prone) OEM lines. Don't try to save (too much) money on them.

[FunLight]

Thanx a lot for your detailed input. I bought a new filter today, and got message that the new pump is on its way, so as soon as the pump arrives its time to let the truck back in to the warm garage. Its nothing to look forward to since I have to pass the truck sideways when its indoors.

That also means that the Astro is my temporally car of choice, whitch lead to a small off topic question. Im pretty sure that the Astros problem is a vacuum leak someware.
It sounds like the leak has something to do with the th 700 transmission, but when I had a look in the garage manual it dont seem to be any vacuum hose to the gearbox.
On the 350 boxes its a vacuum clock on the gearbox itself if I remember correct, so any ideas of what it could be that delivers this high pitch noice.

[DmaxMaverick]

The TH700R4 transmission has NO vacuum control, or vacuum connections. It's entirely mechanical/hydraulic/electric (not electronic).

Consider yourself lucky. Your vacuum leak, if that's what it is, is making noise. Many/most do not. Find the noise. Something that can help is using aerosol carburetor cleaner (very sparingly). DO NOT USE ETHER OR STARTING FLUID!!! If you suspect a location of the leak, lightly spray the carburetor cleaner in the area (using the straw), or on the leak you suspect. The engine speed should immediately increase with the added fuel (vs. the leaking air). Be very careful when spraying around high heat sources (have a fire extinguisher handy). If you're highly prone to accident, perhaps have an ambulance close by (just kidding, but there are stories....). This is usually most effective immediately after a cold start before the coolant temp begins to increase much.

[FunLight]

Yes, thanx Maverick.
I will borrow the carlift in the next garage tomorrow and have a look. The reason that I suspected a vacuum leak close to the transmission was that the sound was coming from there,, I thought.

I know that its hard to determine exactly from where a sound like this originates from, so I just have to try and have an open mind. I can however announce that the x4 seems to work fine, but Im not sure that all of the lamps on the side of the lever works.

I also took a testdrive to see if the vibrations stopped. I found out that a cross on one shaft was moving in one direction. A previous grease monkey had missed that one of the bearing cups was not all the way in when he was mounting the cross in to its place. That made the cross movable at one direction, so I tighten it hoping that this was the reason for the vibrations, but no cigarr.

I was driving in around 85 kmh, and when I pressed the throttle it started again. Im not able to drive faster than 90 kmh as it is now. I suppose that Autobahn in Germany is out of the question at this time. Bummer......

[DmaxMaverick]

If the "cross" (U-joint - universal joint) was loose for any amount of driving, it needs to be replaced. When the cups are loose or improperly positioned in the yoke, the bearings (needles) move about laterally, get damaged, and end up in the end of the cup (often in small pieces, leaving fewer bearings in correct position to bear a load, not to mention damage to the cup's bearing surface). This leaves you with a drivetrain vibration, still. You may have other issues with the drivetrain, but the joint needs to be replaced, regardless.

[FunLight]

Hi guys, its the weird Swede again.
Thought I forgot about you, nooooo chance.

However, the pump arrived and I was lucky enough that the treads was the same on the new pump as they were on the old, so I just moved the coupling from old to new and presto.
But right now Im plying around with the hoses that needed to be changed.

I will also try out the tip I found for a couple of tests you could do to hopefully kick some life in the sensor before you separate yourself from moore cash for a new one. I have hope that it would do the trick, but I know better than expect anything with cars.

BUT I have another problem that seems to be impossible, in Sweden anyway.
Behind the heater unit it is three small bulbs delivering the light to the buttons. In my unit all three bulbs is fryed, and the hunt for new ones began.

Unfortionally the hunt was without result here in Sweden. Ive called and sent email to anyone that might have these bulbs, but the answer I got was that they are outdated.
Hopefully some of you guys got a tip to where there will be light, or maybe know of some trick or another bulb that fits.

I hope you know witch bulb I mean, its the small glassbulb soldered in a plastic foot with a flat behind and a grove for a strait screwdriver. All I have found on the internet and here in Sweden is the plastic one with a butt that sticks out. That one wont fit because there is a component card that moore or less stands vertically on the flat behind of the bulbs.

Well, no moore time left to torture you with my never ending posts. To my defense I think grammatically in Swedish and write in swenglish, and there a lot of corrections before anything flyes away to this nice forum, but the posts still feels way to long and full of a madmans rambling.

[FunLight]

Another short question.
I found a suggestion that the noice filter thats connected to the optical sensor could be the problem and cause the code 17,18. The advise is to remove the filter and see if the problem goes away.

What it dont say is, if the code dissapears and everything is right with the world and the truck runs perfect again, could I then forget about the filter and drive happily in to the sunset, or could that destroy something in the engine and I need to order a new noice filter asap and not use the truck without it ??????

[ronniejoe]

The filter is there for a reason. If it is faulty, replace it.

[FunLight]

The filter is there for a reason. If it is faulty, replace it.

Ok, thanx for the explanation, good to know.

Whats the ordinary fuel consumption I could expect with my truck ??
I know its in some sort of safe mode with the code still there, and thats why the engine maybe burn moore fuel than normal.

What I dont know is how much diesel a 6,5 TD in ok condition needs. My truck is like a camel before a desert crossing, it fills up the humps so fast that I can see the needle move.

Another thing is the 4x4. Some of the time when I pull the stick to the 4 wheel position, it lights up and I can feel that its in. Next time when I do the same nothing happends, no light and I sometimes have to shift between D and R a couple of times until the front wheels joins the party. Is there something I can do to make it work everytime that you know about and would share with me ??

[FunLight]

Happy New Year to you all from Sweden.

Youre probably all busy with family and friends, but I hope that someone with knowledge has the time and will to share it with me.

I losened the optical sensor yesterday to clean it and hopefully get it to work. That did not happened as I should have expected.
My question is if someone know what surface its suppose to have ? There was a center of metal and two greenish slots like plastic, but should they have a surface a bit ruff or should they be polished ??

My sensor was a bit ruff, and the metal center had a lot of small pits like it has been oxidized.
Im thinking of trying to polish the surface since Ive got nothing to loose, or is there another way to save the sensor ? I found a new one in the US, but it will cost me a bunch of money before Ive got the part in my hand.

[Yukon6.2]

Happy New Year from the great white north.
I cannot remember what my sensor looked like.
I will try to remember to open up my pump at the shop today.
Any chance you or someone else has a pump to salvage one out of?
Thomas

[Robyn]

The front end is engaged by the THERMAL ACTUATOR on the RH axle tube of the front diffy.

Your may be getting tired.

Many time the rig must be moved a bit to get the light to come on due to parts that must engage.

There is a kit the has a cable and goes from the dash down to the diffy and manually engages the thing...


These units work sweet. No issues due to electrical gizmos.....

[FunLight]

The front end is engaged by the THERMAL ACTUATOR on the RH axle tube of the front diffy.

Your may be getting tired.

Many time the rig must be moved a bit to get the light to come on due to parts that must engage.

There is a kit the has a cable and goes from the dash down to the diffy and manually engages the thing...


These units work sweet. No issues due to electrical gizmos.....

Hi there Robyn.
Well, I found a guy in Stockholm Sweden that own 3 defect 6,5 pumps with the optical sensor still in place. He posted one of them to me today, and he wants ca $60 to 65 for one, and if its defect he will send me another one.

Anyway, if I understod you right the sensor is lit up when some other parts activates a electrical puls, and there is a manual cabel axessorie for sale that is mounted on the dash so I could send this puls myself from the drivers seat, and that way get it to work ??

First of all, how do I know whats broken in the first place, Is the sensor defect or does it not get any signal ?
If I want to test it I have to fabricate a lid for the hole if I take out the sensor, and I need a long wire connection for the sensor if I want it cloes enough to the driver seat to see if it will light up, or not.

[Robyn]

The activation of the front differential works like this..

Lever placed in 4x4
Lever places the transfer case in gear to allow 4x4
An electrical switch is activated by the lever also.
12 volts is applied to the THERMAL ACTUATOR ON THE FRONT RH diffy axle tube.
The thermal actuator heats up internally and pushes a rod into the unit to engage the drive coupling.

The mechanical cable type system simply replaces the thermal actuator with a manual cable and linkage...

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjEopvX0cLfAhXvIK0GHTDRB8AYABABGgJwdg&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD27eTUc6YAgx9d8I9ksgo2&sig=AOD64_2T-8omIwNv_pVcY0T62abJoLrTQA&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjogZTX0cLfAhVpslQKHShYD2YQ9aACCDc&adurl=https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pos-600%3Fseid%3Dsrese1%26cm_mmc%3Dpla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-4x4-posi-lok

[FunLight]

Aaahhhh, now I get it.
Robyn, youre talking about my earlier post about my diff and the front wheels lack of engagement sometimes.

My last posts was about the optical sensor, and thats why I had some problems understanding what you meant.
Anyway, your tip is good and definitly relevant for me further down the road, so thanx.

[DmaxMaverick]

Aaahhhh, now I get it.
Robyn, youre talking about my earlier post about my diff and the front wheels lack of engagement sometimes.

My last posts was about the optical sensor, and thats why I had some problems understanding what you meant.
Anyway, your tip is good and definitly relevant for me further down the road, so thanx.

Mechanical front diff engagement isn't your only other option. You can also "upgrade" the thermal system to the later electric motor system. It works like the door locks, rather than relying on a heating coil and thermocouple. The thermal system is prone to slow engagement when it's really cold. Heavy lube, contamination and age causes slow/no engagement when the temps are below freezing. The electric motor system is much more positive and predictable.

[Robyn]

1995 and later had the electric servo motor and as Maverick mentioned were better.

The posilok is almost fool proof and does not rely on any electrical switches or electrical components whatsoever.

If I needed a rig in very nasty conditions I would go for the cable actuator..

I have never been a fan of the electrically or vacuum 4x4 actuators.

When the weather gets nasty and 4x4 is an absolute must have, the last thing you need is a magic box to fail and leave you stranded..

The newer rigs with either The push button or twist knob selectors that control the transfer case are in my estimation a bridge too far.

My personal idea is "KEEP IT SIMPLE" Twist the hubs in, pull the lever into 4x4 and go....

The electronics are USUALLY fine, but they are not going to fail on a nice warm summer afternoon sitting in the garage.

When they fail will likely be on a cold dark stormy night when the snow is up to the bumper and it's COLDER THAN SIN.....

[FunLight]

Well, I dont know your snow situation in the winter, but I live in Gavle in the middle of Sweden, and the last winters here has been moderate. When I moved here 18 years ago I bought a Polaris snowmobile, and sold it again after two winters moore or less without any snow.

The last time anyone needed a 4x4 truck here was between 4-7 december 1998 when Gavle was hit by a blizzard and the snowdepth increased from 1 cm to 198 cm in these 4 days.

I guess that Robyn in Oregon has snow enough in the winter, but Maverick in California, if I read CA right, probably drive mostly in mud or sand maybe.

I guess that the reason to my trannys reluctans is the temperature thats below zero, not much below but enough.

[Robyn]

Where we live is at around 1200 feet elevation (366 meters) and we can get Snow here and usually have some each winter.

The last bad winter was 2008 with about 4 feet (1.3 meters approx)

It was cold too with temps in the single digits F (About -15 C) The last few winters have been far less nasty...

Last year we had about 12 inches (approx 30 cm)


We have had winters with very cold temps.... (-17 C) but this is not the normal.

Normally we see rain and low 40's F and the occasional drop into the low to mid 20's F

Where we are we are right in the lower edge of the cloud deck, so it gets sloppy.

[Robyn]

I base my dislike of a lot of the fancy electronics on the 4x4 to have a rig that I can depend on when it counts.

When we get 3 weeks of nasty windy driving rain and everything is soaking wet, then the temp plummets into the below freezing area overnight and it dumps snow on us, I want things to work.

The last thing I want is to crawl into the truck and not have the parts I need most work.

A 4x4 without a working front end is really useless, and this is not the time I want to crawl under the beast with tools in hand....:eek:

[FunLight]

I agree with you not wanting to make repairs on a cold and wet vehicle. About the temperature in your home area, I think that you are lucky, this winter is really weard here with some days below zero, and the next day it will rain.

A ordinary winter here use to have snow and everything between -5 to -25 degrees C.
23 to-13 degrees F.
My lowest reading happened when I was a young boy and visiting my mother in Solleftea in moore nothern parts of Sweden.
My brother and I had to go outside on the 31 of december, and feel what is was like to be out in -50 degrees C. -58 degrees F.

Another thing that popped up in my head. Is there any electronic speed or rev limiter when the truck is in the safe mode due to the faulty optical sensor ????

[Robyn]

Not sure about the rev limiter, but others will likely chime in.

Yessssssssssssss... I have been in -50 F weather WITH WIND :(:(

Not pleasant at all...

[Yukon6.2]

Not sure about the rev limiter, but others will likely chime in.

Yessssssssssssss... I have been in -50 F weather WITH WIND :(:(

Not pleasant at all...
Aww it's not that bad
Our Ranger Patrol camped in wall tents for 5 days where the daytime temps were-58C. We were required to get out snow machines running everyday and preform our Army duties.As Rangers we don't get outfitted by the Army,they give us some cloths ,guns,bullets and rations,but all our gear is personal kit
It was an awesome 5 days,we were 20 miles from the highway on lake where there is an old Airforce plane sunk in WW2,it was on the route the US used to ferry planes to Russia
25 of us from our town,another 25 came across country to join us,then we packed a runway for the Army Brass to fly in.Had a shoot in -56C that was interesting.It was so cold that if you wanted to load the clips for the C7's you were allowed to go full auto for the complete clip.
The only ones that had problems with the cold were the Army Brass.
I guess they didn't listen to the Rangers as we were training them for the cold.That is our mission all the time is to train the regular Army how to function in the cold.

[FunLight]

And I thought that my minus 50 C was something special, or like the tuff ones that lives up north in Sweden says, at minus 50 C they have to dig out the long sleeved shirts because its a minor draft outside, but the moonshine is perfectly chilled.

However, I raised the question about a possible rev limiter as long as the code 18 remaines. Is it possible that there is a electronic cutout at 85-90 kmh that makes the vibrations I mentioned in previous posts ??

Another issue appeared yesterday. I was driving on a strait road and tried to speed it up to 90, when the whole truck jumped and it felt and sounded like I was about to drop something from the undercarriage. It appeared again once, but nothing later on. Ive been rolling around under the truck and looked for anything that could explain the vibrations, but everything seems bolted on right.

Then my third issue for today. I was checking down the fuel tank and discovered that someone drilled a hole strait through the lid. My question is if that is bad in any way, or if I could ignore it and not have buy a new lid, anytime soon anyway ??

BTW I called the guy in Stockholm and asked if he sent the used optical sensor yet, because I should have had it yesterday, and I found out that he forgot about it but will send it today.

I get soooo tired sometimes, now I wont get it before this weekend, moore like monday if he dont forget it a second time.... angry face.

[FunLight]

Good news ...... Yesterday I got the sensor Ive been waiting for, and when it was in its place the tc dissapeared by itself, I thought that I had to press the brake and throttle to get rid of the fc ??

Anyway, its not all perfect. When I was going out on a testdrive a new tc popped up.
This time it was 34, and I know that it is important to get the new sensor in the same place as the old one. I thought that I was very careful and managed to hit the right spot, but I dont know.

The code 43 dissapeared after a while, but even though the starting is instant now, I think the engine could work better and not missfire when I give the throttle a kick.
I think that there is a way to fine tune the ignition, but have no clue on how to do that and hope to get som help here.
I dont have any special tools or gadgets exept a thingy for checking the vaccum, a stroboscope and possibility to borrow a kit for checking the fuel pressure.

Please help.

[FunLight]

My solenoid to the wastegate is powerless. I check the power without the solenoid, I get 12v, but when I connect the power to the solenoid, there is zero volt.

I still dont have any litt on the truck so I could use some advise in what to do and possibly get a hint on where I can find the powersource for the w.solenoid

[FunLight]

Hi again guys. Ive been quiet for a while now, occupied with fixing the problems with the truck.
Anyway, yesterday a new confusing thing appeared. Ive been out driving around and was going to drive the truck in to the garage. I pressed the throttle to half and nothing happened.
The rpm did not climb for at least 5 seconds, no pull from the transmission until the rpm started to climb, and then I got all of it and had to push the brakes down.

It took me 4-5 tryes just to get the truck in the garage without smashing throu the other wall.
It seems to be something wrong with the turbo. The theory is that the turbo dont spin as fast as it should and therefore acting as a plug for the exhaust.

I have a turboboost instrument on the dash, and when I rev the engine the boost needle goes to minus instead of plus, and instead of making a overpressure in the intake, it makes a underpressure and starve the engine for air.

When I remove the turbo and installed the air filter and exhaust housing like on a ordinaire suction engine, the car worked better than it even did with the turbo before this latest problem.

I removed the turbo and picked it apart, just to find, nothing.

As far as anyone can se and feel, there is nothing wrong with the turbo, but what is wrong then ??
As you can see, It is a weard problem and I need som help from you guys.

[Robyn]

Reving the engine will not make boost as the flow of hot gas is very limited.

The engine must be UNDER LOAD to make boost.

Make sure the turbine wheel is free to turn.

Remove the air inlet hose on the turbo and make sure turbine spins freely.

Even if the turbo was stuck it will not cause the symptoms you describe.

The engine RPM should react to the throttle regardless of what the turbo is doing.

Do you have any CHECK ENGINE CODES...OR SERVICE THROTTLE SOON LIGHT

[FunLight]

Reving the engine will not make boost as the flow of hot gas is very limited.

The engine must be UNDER LOAD to make boost.
Ok makes sense, but previously revings without load moved the needle up on the plusside of the boost meter.


Make sure the turbine wheel is free to turn.
It is very free.


Remove the air inlet hose on the turbo and make sure turbine spins freely.
Done, and it is spinning freely, without the usual spinning turbo sound though.


Even if the turbo was stuck it will not cause the symptoms you describe.

The engine RPM should react to the throttle regardless of what the turbo is doing.
Yes, my hypothesis was that a stuck or slow turbo might reduce the flow of exhaust gases, and therefore make the engine slow to rev up. BUT that was just one of my desperate ideas and probably a wrong one to.

Do you have any CHECK ENGINE CODES...OR SERVICE THROTTLE SOON LIGHT
Yes, that was the first thing I did, and there was the same as usual, a code 34 thats a non functioning stepper motor on the diesel pump. No throttle service light.

As I wrote, I took away the turbo and changed the engine to a ordinary suction type with a air filter on the intake, plugged turbo exhaust housing and connected to the ordinary exhaust pipe.
I then took a drive around the block just to test it, and the truck was driving really nice when it got all the oxygen it needed.
Thats why the idea that the turbo maybe was slowing down the intake air was borne.

[Stromsky]

Hi Mike. So sorry you are having so many issues with your truck. I have faced many of the same problems as you have, in the 20 years that I have had my two 6.5 diesels. One big plus for me was when I bought the dignostic package from Enghs Motor, right there in Sweden. You can get the laptop computer hookup and download the program, then see all kinds of things going on with your codes and injection pump. After I hooked up my computer, I found out my stepper motor was not working, so I bought one or two parts pumps off Ebay and used the parts to fix mine. You get the shutoff solenoid and the fuel sensor light too. I paid about Can$100 each for the pumps. When my 94 one ton vacuum pump quit working, a diesel mechanic said to move the drive belt from the inside of the pulley, to the outside and it has worked well since then. I also greased the cam inside the pump. I have put several starters on, as well as alternators. Make sure your harmonic balancer is good, with not much flexing of the rubber, or it will break the crank. I have had issues with cracked blocks as well, but fixed that with a Hummvee takeout from Ted's Trucks and Stuff. You might have better luck with yours in the long run. Some over here in Alberta, Canada have gone over 600,000 km with regular service.

[FunLight]

Hi Mike. So sorry you are having so many issues with your truck. I have faced many of the same problems as you have, in the 20 years that I have had my two 6.5 diesels. One big plus for me was when I bought the dignostic package from Enghs Motor, right there in Sweden. You can get the laptop computer hookup and download the program, then see all kinds of things going on with your codes and injection pump. After I hooked up my computer, I found out my stepper motor was not working, so I bought one or two parts pumps off Ebay and used the parts to fix mine. You get the shutoff solenoid and the fuel sensor light too. I paid about Can$100 each for the pumps. When my 94 one ton vacuum pump quit working, a diesel mechanic said to move the drive belt from the inside of the pulley, to the outside and it has worked well since then. I also greased the cam inside the pump. I have put several starters on, as well as alternators. Make sure your harmonic balancer is good, with not much flexing of the rubber, or it will break the crank. I have had issues with cracked blocks as well, but fixed that with a Hummvee takeout from Ted's Trucks and Stuff. You might have better luck with yours in the long run. Some over here in Alberta, Canada have gone over 600,000 km with regular service.

Hi there Canada.
Yeah, I know about Enghs Motor, there located in circa 80 km from me, and I have there chip i my truck. Ive been thinking of buying the software and cable and I probably need it, but Im not sure that its worth almost $200 for something I maybe use just once.

Lets split this up so I dont miss anything.
1.Could you please tell me moore of this belt on the outside thing, and why would I do that ?
2. Ive been looking for a new stepper motor for my ip but not found any, and since that the axel thats suppose to move doesnt move, Im not sure that it would help anyway.
3. My harmonic balancer, sealer, and the inner wheel is brand new, but yesterday I discovered that the harmonic balancer is wobbling. When I checked it it seems to being loose in the joint between the rubber and outer ring, so I suppose that its a defect one and I need to change it.
4. So far Ive spended like $ 2-2,500 in different parts, but Ive killed a lot of codes and the engine works pretty good. Now its everything under the floor left, but thats done in an afternoon.... (not)

[Jaryd]

Hi there Canada.
Yeah, I know about Enghs Motor, there located in circa 80 km from me, and I have there chip i my truck. Ive been thinking of buying the software and cable and I probably need it, but Im not sure that its worth almost $200 for something I maybe use just once.

Lets split this up so I dont miss anything.
1.Could you please tell me moore of this belt on the outside thing, and why would I do that ?
2. Ive been looking for a new stepper motor for my ip but not found any, and since that the axel thats suppose to move doesnt move, Im not sure that it would help anyway.
3. My harmonic balancer, sealer, and the inner wheel is brand new, but yesterday I discovered that the harmonic balancer is wobbling. When I checked it it seems to being loose in the joint between the rubber and outer ring, so I suppose that its a defect one and I need to change it.
4. So far Ive spended like $ 2-2,500 in different parts, but Ive killed a lot of codes and the engine works pretty good. Now its everything under the floor left, but thats done in an afternoon.... (not)

If your harmonic balancer is wobbling then you seriously need to change it out as soon as possible. Probably shouldn’t even drive it until it gets changed because it just ain’t worth the risk of a broken crank.

[FunLight]

If your harmonic balancer is wobbling then you seriously need to change it out as soon as possible. Probably shouldn’t even drive it until it gets changed because it just ain’t worth the risk of a broken crank.

The outer ring where the belt rides on my balancer was moving sideways so it started to wobbling. I dont know why it could move at all, but the seller agreed that it must be some kind of fabrication error and changed it without diskussion.

However, this truck will be my ruin. As soon as I fix one thing the next one pops up right away.
It have been stalled now and then, but yesterday it decided to give up and the trip home from the store that ordinary takes a couple of minutes was taking 40 minutes. The truck stalled after 5-10 seconds, and would not start again for at least a couple of minutes.

So, 10 sec drive and two minutes waiting, 10 sec drive and wait again.
My truck was very cheep during those 40 minutes, so after a serch on the forum I found out that it should be a faulty PMD, and 5 minutes later I had around 400 dollar less on my account, and a new PMD kit was ordered.

Its amazing what we do for our trucks.

[ronniejoe]

Don't be confused by the two components mounted on the front end of the crank shaft. One is the harmonic balancer (or torsional damper), the other is the accessory drive pulley.

The damper is critical. It is mounted closest to the timing cover. These can fail when the rubber damper ring ages.

The pulley, mounted to the front of the balancer, also has rubber damping. This is to increase belt life. These can fail when the outer rim separates from the rubber. The rim will then rotate relative to the hub. There are spokes with metal snubbers that will continue to drive the belt, but will make a loud racket. Failure of the pulley does not cause any problems for the crankshaft as so many people incorrectly say.

What you describe is failure of the pulley, not the harmonic balancer.