Resealed my injection pump, stalling issue.

[4077th]

I'll try to keep this short. Posted on 2 other boards, with no replies. :(

Does anyone know if the throttle shaft can be installed on the min-max gov linkage incorrectly? I know the top cover of the Db2 pump itself can be installed on the wrong side of the gov linkage (causing a run away) but this is not my problem.

Truck runs great at WOT, mid throttle, good timing, good power, no air in the system verified by a clear IP return line. Truck runs perfect.......

It just WONT idle after reasealing the IP. I had to bottom out the low idle screw to get it to 500 rpm ish. Idles kind of rough, but is smooth if I hold it open a little further.

So i'm thinking 1 of 2 issues. I either goofed installing the throttle shaft on the governor shaft (shaft has 2 steps) or tank sock is plugged. I know the Db2 pulls fuel well at higher RPM but not much at idle. I'm pushing through a 10 micron and 2 micron with a 12v lift pump.

[4077th]

Backed the governor nut out 1 full turn. Truck is back to normal, idled a little too high but a little backing out on the external low idle screw got it in the sweet spot. She runs like she did 3 years ago, and with all the new seals is leak free.

It was a great learning curve completely re sealing this pump, I would do it again in a heart beat. They are really simpler than the shops let on. Big thanks to DieselPro at DieselPlace and all the Stanadyne manuals.

[Robyn]

Glad you got it fixed.

I have replaced the throttle shaft seals and the top cover seal, but never the entire package

[welshswampy]

Hi, how much of a job is it to reseal
I'm not a mechanic, I'm a plumber/heating engineer (UK) and can happily repair/refurbish various diverter/boiler valves
I know that is probably an apples and oranges comparison, but wouldn't mind giving it a go
Is it a case of carefully taking apart and recording/taking pics of the process and then, after replacing seals etc, working in reverse

[4077th]

It's pretty easy, sounds like you have a mind for mechanical bits like I do.
The head and rotor are very sensitive to particles. Fingerprints alone can keep the rotor from sliding back into the hydraulic head. So go slow and be clean.

Just dont mess with the Allen fuel adjustment screw and your fine. Also dont remove the delivery valve plunger from the rotor, no need to. It requires an inch pound torque wrench to reseat as well as a new delivery valve stop that looks like a little steel cone. This part is apparently not reusable, the kit I bought did come with s new one.