Those who swapped in the Lube Specialist oil cooler lines-info needed

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Failing my state inspection finally lit a fire under by butt to get the maintainence done on my truck that I had been putting off. The new oil cooler and hydroboost lines are here. I ponied up and bought the Lube Specialist oil cooler lines. Seems I've been away from that site for a while. Not only did the price go up, but they are stainless braided lines now(I don't remember them being that before, but I could be wrong). No notes in the box so I need to be fully sure of two things. First, the ends with the 90 degree adapters go into the block, right?? Just need to make sure. And these lines will clear everything, right?? I noticed the stockers have funky bent hardline sections at the block ends to allow them to snake up into the darkness.
Needless to say, I'm looking forward to getting these things swapped in and finally eliminating at least one of my dribbles.

[Turbine Doc]

New lines are stainless, 90 deg adapters do go in block, 45s at cooler, and also as a K series you may have to do some clearance grinding for the oil filter adapter, so get a full set of o rings for that, front XFER gear box shaft gets removed to get more clearance to work, may have to make a custom short swing wrench I dont remember the size 18 mm I think. also a sequence to the 90s one goes in before the other but I don't remember which.

I could not snake out my factory lines I just chopped them out, but my IC insall may have added to complexity to pulling GM lines.

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by tbogemirep:
New lines are stainless, 90 deg adapters do go in block, 45s at cooler, and also as a K series you may have to do some clearance grinding for the oil filter adapter, so get a full set of o rings for that, front XFER gear box shaft gets removed to get more clearance to work, may have to make a custom short swing wrench I dont remember the size 18 mm I think. also a sequence to the 90s one goes in before the other but I don't remember which.

I could not snake out my factory lines I just chopped them out, but my IC insall may have added to complexity to pulling GM lines. I had cut my old lines to get them out too.

Carey

[jspringator]

Watch placement relative exhaust manifold. I had the old style that was routed too close; burned a hole right through it in the Virginia mountains.

[3500HD]

did you get them in I just started installing a set but the 45s wont thread into the cooler called greg and he's checking on it He dose confirm that the old lines have different threads than what he is shiping :rolleyes:

[Mike Pope]

Originally posted by tbogemirep:
.....and also as a K series you may have to do some clearance grinding for the oil filter adapter, so get a full set of o rings for that...... may have to make a custom short swing wrench I dont remember the size 18 mm I think. also a sequence to the 90s one goes in before the other but I don't remember which.
So the lines aren't a direct "bolt-in" and you have to grind stuff for clearance? :eek: I need to do something with our lines, but I'm starting to think that replacing these things isn't much fun.

How long did it take to install them?

Thanks.

[ANXIOUS-SUBMAN]

I did both the oil cooler lines and the oil bypass system at the same time. It took me all day Saturday and part of Sunday. The grinding that tbogemirep is referring to has only to do with the installation of the bypass system, not the oil cooler lines. I didn't use the Amsoil adaptor but I had to grind mine too.

I didn't have to drop my front shaft as some have done. The same socket I bought to fit my front spindle nuts also fit the nut on the bottom of the 90 degree filter adaptor. I was barely able to get the socket past the front drive shaft.

YES it will take longer than you think and NO it's not a pleasent experience.

I would like to add that while this was not an easy task, I was very well motivated. (see the second to last comment in my signature)

[ 02-15-2005, 03:02 PM: Message edited by: ANXIOUS SUBMAN ]

[Brandon]

Summit Racing carries an oil cooler that is the same size as the Factory and same brand but it has 1/2" NPT fittings. Part # is BMM-70266 $59.88. I had my steel braided lines made in town for $75.00. With the new cooler and fittings It was still under $200.00. It took me 3 hours to change everything and I have an Intercooler and winch bumper.

[LanduytG]

The part that needs to be ground is on the very edge of the filter adapter and thats only on modles with the 5/8 lines.

The new lines clear very well. The only issues has been on Yukons which have the L56 the exhaust manifolds are different than the L65.

Greg

[ace58]

I agree with both the statements installation wasn't a snap but I was plenty motivated and pleased with the end results.

[Turbine Doc]

Wasn't that tough of a job about 6 hrs, 2 hrs was learning what I was doing, also I'm a L56 engine that may have been part of the job difficulty, this is a must do IMO as concequences of factory line fail are engine self destruction, as you know the line will never fail while sitting in your driveway, it will fail when Mr. Murphy deems it to be most inconvenient time for you to have to deal with it.


Originally posted by LanduytG:
The part that needs to be ground is on the very edge of the filter adapter and thats only on modles with the 5/8 lines.

The new lines clear very well. The only issues has been on Yukons which have the L56 the exhaust manifolds are different than the L65.

Greg

[MJEasly]

B&M also makes a larger, stacked plate cooler part #70274 that is 11x11x1.5 with 1/2 NPT fittings.

[DA BIG ONE]

I have the old style replacement lines, not a bad install, but I had to chop the old GM lines to remove them.

Routing the lines is important, make sure they do not contact exhaust, or rub on anything that may cause chafing.

May want to check those motor mounts too while you are in there.

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Haven't done mine yet. They didn't come in time and now the weather is just too cold. Can't fit my crew cab in my standard cab garage either tongue.gif
My new hydroboost lines are here as well. As soon as I get a new steering box and parts for my oil filter relocation, I'll be doing the work. Since the truck will be down obviously for a while, this looks to be warm weather work. I don't have all the parts for the filter relo yet as I've made some changes, but I plan to do all this at once so it may not be until spring until I do this. I'll keep in mind about the fittings/oem cooler problem.

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
I have the old style replacement lines, not a bad install, but I had to chop the old GM lines to remove them.

Routing the lines is important, make sure they do not contact exhaust, or rub on anything that may cause chafing.

May want to check those motor mounts too while you are in there. Today I was at a Hydraulic shop to get some fittings and I asked about "Fire Sleeve" and they had it in 1 1/4". I think that size will slip over the fittings. They want $24.00 for four feet of it. I think that would be all I need to cover my lines even if I ended up having to split it and using clamps to hold it on.

Carey

[HowieE]

When I mounted my replacement line I also used a remote oil filter adapter at the oil filter location and mounted the filter back under the drivers seat to eliminate the mess of oil in the front U joint while changing oil. In this location, when I am cought on the road, I can also have the Dummies at Quick Lube prefill the filter because it is now easy access.
I also ran the lines through the motor mount rather than above it to increase the distrance on the lines at that point from the engine heat and exhaust manifold.
Will try and get around to putting photos on my web page soon.