94 lb7 K1500 conversion

[kgoff6]

94 lb7 k1500
I've finally decided to dive in.
I seized the original 5.7L 350 in my 1994 Chevy 1500 4wd a couple months ago and have been debating what to do with it since.

This was my first truck. I'll keep it forever, and it will be my son's first truck in about 14 years.
It has a 4L60E, I believe.
I plan on solid axle swapping soon also, 3/4 ton front and back.

I spent 1000$ last year on vortec heads, push rods, rocker arms, ignition, gaskets, and TBI to vortec head conversion intake manifold, all brand new (except heads- they were reworked.)


Well just recently I changed my mind even i saw a local ad on Craigslist.
I've always had the dream of swapping a 4 or 6bt in, but never found one.

I found am lb7 out of a 2003 Silverado.
The guy who I picked it up from owns a bada$s LARGE heavy equipment shop. There were semis and rat rods all over the place.
This made me feel better about dropping 2300$ on an engine that I did not see run.

He bought the donor truck running, and pulled the 6.6L out, as well as the Allison transmission, ECU, TCU, engine bay fuse box, and the full engine wiring harness. he did this with the intentions of puting the engine in a rollback truck but said hewas not able to find the time.
The transfer case is sitting in the donor behind his shop still, available.
He offered ot trade me for about 900$ of chevy 350.. What are these t-cases worth in good codition?

the allison that is with the engine is no good.. where is a good place to buy a remanned one from that offers a core charge?


I got the engine home, went to harbor freight, got a 2 ton picker and got it set in the garage.
Then I moved the truck in the garage, after cleaning my work area real good of course..

a couple friends offered to help and we got to it and got the whole front clip off and engine+transmission out.

i'm working on pulling the electrical minus the BCM, and degreasing the frame to clean up from the long term-oil build up from the leaking 5.7L 350. lol
Kenny

[More Power]

I'd recommend getting the complete 2003 truck if it's available. There'll be lots of small parts in it that will reduce the cost of conversion.

Transmissions... www.kennedydiesel.com will help you. The 2003 transfer case will be needed if your truck is a 4x4.

[kgoff6]

I'd recommend getting the complete 2003 truck if it's available. There'll be lots of small parts in it that will reduce the cost of conversion.

Transmissions... www.kennedydiesel.com will help you. The 2003 transfer case will be needed if your truck is a 4x4.

I'll check out the link for the transmissions, thank you!

As for the transfer case.. Is there no chance that I can use the one that Is still mounted in the truck?
It works good, and was mounted to the 4L60E, but separated before I got engine/trans out.

It looks like it will bolt up, I'm not so much asking if it will give me good 4x4 use as much as I'm asking if it will even allow the truck to be complete and moveable untill a different tcase can me purchased.
It uses a manual shift lever obviously, and I know I would shred it quick if abused..

The full truck is available and the guys says he will let me pick through it as I go. But buying the entire truck is not an option with finances being considered.
Before you tell me this will cost crazy amounts of money and can't be done without, I understand that, I'm prepared for that, just not all at once.
I'll score parts paycheck by paycheck.
I've included some more pics!
Kenny

[DmaxMaverick]

Your current NV241 transfer case is not compatible with the Allison transmission. Bolt patterns are one thing. In/Out shafts/splines are another. You could "convert" one to fit the other, but the conversion will likely cost as much or more than sourcing the correct NV261XHD TC.

[kgoff6]

I'm getting the donor truck Monday!!

I lucked out and got to deal with good people who want to see this project move along!
Otherwise, I would have had to proceed one paycheck at a time..

Now I have lots of things I need! The transfer case is included, and some of the other things I'm thinking I'll be able to use
-fuel tank
-rear axle
-accel pedal
-entire dash
-intercooler (if it fits)
And much more
Kenny

[DieselDavy]

Kenny,
You say the Allison is no good. What is wrong with it. They are pretty much bullet proof. Maybe it just needs a refresh and then you'd have the whole package!
Talk to "More Power". He's done this conversion and is the master!
Dave

[kgoff6]

Kenny,
You say the Allison is no good. What is wrong with it. They are pretty much bullet proof. Maybe it just needs a refresh and then you'd have the whole package!
Talk to "More Power". He's done this conversion and is the master!
Dave


I'm not exactly sure what is wrong with it. The guy that I got it from told me that he had pulled a part out of it also, I will ask him exactly what it was and tm what the symptoms were of transmission failure.
From there I will decide weather I'm look at a rebuild with upgraded parts (best option) or if I need to find a used or remanned one.
I assume if I am missing parts I may be no good for a core charge.. But I could be wrong.

Today I am dropping the transfer case. The deal is is I give him everything out of the red truck, engine, transmission, tcase, hedders, exhaust, rear axle, whole engine harness, computer, motorvation Eprom, and all the parts that I have to rebuild the 5.7l, which includes reworked vortec heads, rocker arms, push rods, edlebrock vortec to tbi manifold, msd Ignition.. Oh and I'm throwing in my system that was in the red truck too. There are 16 JL W3 8s in a wall..
Alllll forr the donor truck!
There's no turning back now 😁

Also- is there a limit of attachments that I can upload??
Kenny

[DmaxMaverick]

........

Also- is there a limit of attachments that I can upload??
Kenny

Yes, for now. After you've been around a while, and interact more, you'll be allowed more features and storage space. Keep going at your rate and it won't be long at all.

[kgoff6]

Yes, for now. After you've been around a while, and interact more, you'll be allowed more features and storage space. Keep going at your rate and it won't be long at all.

Oh I see!

I picked up the donor truck today, there's lots of work to be done.
It didn't come with a cab or bed, just the rolling chassis.

I've got the bed taken off of the half ton, as well as exhaust, transfer case and everything.
All that is still connected is the front suspension + axle and the cab.
The rear axle is still on, but I plan on swapping the 3/4 ton axle into it today. It seems like it will fit perfect, just move the springs. There's less than a half inch difference between the 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton mounts, so with the play in the shackles Im hoping it will fit.

The donor truck was a 4 door short bed.. And I know that it's an option to swap the cab onto the 3/4 ton frame but that seems like a huge pita.. Cutting the frame and all that.. Then fitting cab mounts..

I plan on swapping a Dana 60 in, but for now I'm going to leave the half ton front.
If it had been fairly easy, I wanted to swap the 3/4 ton front suspension and diff and everything into it, but that doesn't seem like it will work either.
So I get to go with my original plan! solid axle swap.

I'll post some more so that I can post pictures...
It's no fun without pictures 👎

[DieselDavy]

Kenny,
I'm concerned that the cab didn't come with the donor truck. I thought you'd need the wiring harness and dash. (I really don't know what I'm talking about, just what I think I remember reading here on "the page".)
Dave

[kgoff6]

Kenny,
I'm concerned that the cab didn't come with the donor truck. I thought you'd need the wiring harness and dash. (I really don't know what I'm talking about, just what I think I remember reading here on "the page".)
Dave

I really wish I would've got the cab, I planned on swapping the entire dash, seats, carpet, all kinds of stuff.
That did not happen.

Fortunately, when I bought the engine the guy gave me the entire engine harness, ecu, and tcu.
When I recieved the donor truck (from the same guy) it came with the entire harness for headlights, taillights and everything like that. I will be swapping that to the half ton and wiring it to my lights and such.

There is a Video on you tube and the guy is running an lb7 in a truck about this same year, and he has original gauges hooked up and working correctly.
Not sure what is involved in making this happen yet, but I will difenatly be researching. 12volt electrical is my specialty, not scared at all on (12v) wiring.

Debating on buying or building engine mounts right now.

Going to loosen the cab today and lift it up about 3 inches to get the engine in and mocked up, then cut the cab to fit as I go.
I would like to have a removable tunnel (bolted in) for easy access.

Thanks for the feedback!!

I've posted on 3 forums, this one is the best so far.

I was able to post more pictures!!

[trbankii]

The donor truck was a 4 door short bed.. And I know that it's an option to swap the cab onto the 3/4 ton frame but that seems like a huge pita.. Cutting the frame and all that.. Then fitting cab mounts..

Honestly, by the time you fabricate all the brackets for the engine and drivetrain and swap everything over, splicing the frame and some cab mounts seems like small potatoes...


Kenny,
I'm concerned that the cab didn't come with the donor truck. I thought you'd need the wiring harness and dash. (I really don't know what I'm talking about, just what I think I remember reading here on "the page".)

I seemed to recall the same. I know Jim did on the Duramax Diesel Power Project. It seems like if you used the original gauges, they’d have to be using engine sensors instead of going through the ECU.

[kgoff6]

Honestly, by the time you fabricate all the brackets for the engine and drivetrain and swap everything over, splicing the frame and some cab mounts seems like small potatoes...



I seemed to recall the same. I know Jim did on the Duramax Diesel Power Project. It seems like if you used the original gauges, they’d have to be using engine sensors instead of going through the ECU.


I'll have to do some more research!
seems like anything obdii would be easier to work with than my current set up.

We got the engine in today for the second time (rough fit).
I cut out the tunnel and that helped a lot with getting the engine and trans in and out.

We also broke the cab mounts loose and put 4x4 blocks between the mounts to get an extra 4 inches.
I didn't want to do a body lift, but I'm just fighting against myself if I don't.
The engine sits really high, with the engine sitting about where it will mounted (level) I have 7+ inches of space between the transmission and the crossmembers where it will mount.
Not sure what to do here.. Or if it's okay to have that much room in between.
I think the hood will still close.. But we will see.

We're going to weld the bottom engine mounts from the 3/4 ton onto the half ton frame.

I called and searched everywhere I could find with no luck of finding conversion engine mounts.




Pics included

[trbankii]

Do you have a copy of the book?

http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramaxconversions.htm

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
I would try to get the engine/trans lower into the frame.
I am pretty sure the stock trucks with the duramax in them run a 2" body lift.
By the looks of your last pic's you need to get more clearance,which will happen once you get the engine lower into the frame.

[kgoff6]

Do you have a copy of the book?

http://www.thedieselpage.com/duramaxconversions.htm

Just bought a copy of the book! Thank you for the link

[More Power]

I'm getting the donor truck Monday!!

I lucked out and got to deal with good people who want to see this project move along!
Otherwise, I would have had to proceed one paycheck at a time..

Now I have lots of things I need! The transfer case is included, and some of the other things I'm thinking I'll be able to use
-fuel tank
-rear axle
-accel pedal
-entire dash
-intercooler (if it fits)
And much more
Kenny

Kenny, I would trade the 2003 HD rear axle for a GM 9-1/2" semi-floater like the one I used. GM used the 9-1/2" rear axle in these heavy-half ton and light-3/4 ton trucks back in the day, and they are available in 6 lug to fit the half ton wheels. I haven't broken the rear axle in my truck, even with 600+ rear wheel dyno horsepower. The 2003 HD axle is really too heavy for the chassis and the mismatch in wheel lugs would complicate things. You can read more about the rear axle I used here: http://www.thedieselpage.com/reviews/randys.htm

I recommend keeping the original 1995 and newer dash, just modify the cluster mount to accept the 2003 cluster. That will greatly uncomplicated the conversion. Though, you should fit the 2003 steering column, which will give you the correct cable shift mechanism for the Allison and all of the electrical will be plug-n-play. In the 1994 model year vehicles, It's a toss-up whether to change the entire dash... I'd look hard at finding a way to keep your original dash. The dash conversion in my truck was as or even more difficult in some ways than the engine conversion - took nearly as long too. There are ways to do a conversion while keeping your original dash cluster. There's a motorhome conversion discussion here in this forum about just such a thing.

Jim

[kgoff6]

Kenny, I would trade the 2003 HD rear axle for a GM 9-1/2" semi-floater like the one I used. GM used the 9-1/2" rear axle in these heavy-half ton and light-3/4 ton trucks back in the day, and they are available in 6 lug to fit the half ton wheels. I haven't broken the rear axle in my truck, even with 600+ rear wheel dyno horsepower. The 2003 HD axle is really too heavy for the chassis and the mismatch in wheel lugs would complicate things. You can read more about the rear axle I used here: http://www.thedieselpage.com/reviews/randys.htm

I recommend keeping the original 1995 and newer dash, just modify the cluster mount to accept the 2003 cluster. That will greatly uncomplicated the conversion. Though, you should fit the 2003 steering column, which will give you the correct cable shift mechanism for the Allison and all of the electrical will be plug-n-play. In the 1994 model year vehicles, It's a toss-up whether to change the entire dash... I'd look hard at finding a way to keep your original dash. The dash conversion in my truck was as or even more difficult in some ways than the engine conversion - took nearly as long too. There are ways to do a conversion while keeping your original dash cluster. There's a motorhome conversion discussion here in this forum about just such a thing.

You can read more about my intercooler installation here: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=28375

Jim


I got the 3/4 ton rear axle installed yesterday. It needs a bit to make it perfect, but it bolted up fine.
I swapped the springs and everything over and they bolted up to the frame with no issues.
I need to add spacers in the rear on the frame to bring the shackle mounts out an inch+ or so on each side.
The mounts on the 3/4 ton axle are 2 inches wider than the 10 bolt. For right now it's all boolted up tight but once I have a welder available to help out I figure we'll get some type of spacer on the frame.
My driveline angle looks perfect.

This was much easier than I expected.

I pulled the gear box on both trucks next, and they swap right over as far as bolts go. Same size and everything.
What it seems like I will have to do is do a cut and wels so that I can keep the same lower connection on the new gearbox, while keeping the same old design up top.
This way I will have the new gearbox paired to the old steering wheel.

Not sure if I'd want to swap the steering wheel from a 99.

Oh yeah, I found my new dash.
Since mine is a 94, it seems as though fitting diesel gauges from an 03 is not an option.
I have found a complete dash from a 1999 454 suburban, and the best part is, it's from an old friend.
I'm getting the dash, BCM, and seats for about 250-300$

Think that's about all for now

[kgoff6]

Some more pics

[kgoff6]

Got the trans crossmember loose from the frame and slid it back a couple inches to bolt the allison up to it.
Luckily the k1500 crossmember rests on the inside of the frame rail instead of bolting up from the bottom like the duramax one.
This made it easy for me to get things where I wanted them, got the hoist out of the way finally, and then rolled the truck back with the engine sitting in it so I could clean up my work space real well!

I'm almost on my days off, I plan on knocking out wiring and the fuel system\tank next!

[kgoff6]

In the last week I've been making slow progress.

I got the diesel tank in. I was able to do this using the existing rear hanger mount from the 1/2 ton to hang the new tank.
The front hanger for the tank will work, but not in its original location. It has been unbolter from the frame and today or tomorrow I will drill holes and remount it where I'd like.
In the pictures the cab is still sitting on 4x4 blocks. I don't plan in doing a body lift, so the next best option to make the tank fit imo is to cut the cab and reweld it to fit.
The tank is very similar in size and shape but the difference is large enough to require this or significant beating of the cab.
Fuel lines are run, but one will need to be repaired or replaced because it was cut about 3 inches down instead of being removed from the engine correctly.
The cooler (I believe it is a fuel cooler) will fit fairly easy in-line mounted inside the frame just as it was in the duramax.

I got the proportioning valve and all brake lines mounted to the half ton frame.
I will need some sort of adapter to go from the new brake lines to the old brakes on the front of the truck.
For the rear, they are hooked up, but I need an extension for adequate flex length.

The body Control harness is run from the front to back, this includes the plugs for the fuel tank and also the two electrical plugs for the brake proportioning valve.

The engine and transmission are currently out of the truck hopefully for the last time.
Engine mounts should be built this week.. Waiting for a buddy to get some time off.
I'm going to run the engine harness and make sure I can locate all plugs today.
I may be wrong but I'm thinking if I can get the harness hooked up and strung across the engine for the most part, I should be able to get the engine back in fairly easily and work on Installng the ECM and TCM and fuse box with all the wiring pretty much where I need it already.

I guess I'll see how well that works. Lol

I should have the new dash in 2-ish weeks. This will come withe the bcm and it's from a 1999 so I'm thinking it should be much easier to work with than my 1994 dash.

Im looking for a (affordable) 2003 allison, if you know of one, please DM!
I have a core charge, and this truck will be a track truck (along with the race car) so if advertising or sponsorship could be worked into a deal I'd be good with that also! Lol

I'm going to go out here and pull this dash out now.

[kgoff6]

Got the dash out and a friend of mine got the engine mounts cut out for me.
We test fit to make sure the holes were good then took them back off so that he can finish welding them out.
That's about all I've got for now.
I'm on my 10days on at work so not much else will get done for a couple days.