L5P service

[chessy56]

Looks like it's time to start doing my own service on my new 2017. So far, I think I've found the p/n for the fuel filter (GM #23304096 or A/C Delco #TP1015). Anyone know how tight the bowl nut should be torqued to?

And, what would be the oil pan drain bolt torque? My old LB7 was 62 ft.lbs. My dealership said something about 18 ft.lbs. I'm looking for confirmation on that one. It's past 5pm on 6/30 and the techs have left for the day (or the July 4th weekend). I may have to try getting ahold of a dealership out on the west coast....

[chessy56]

It appears that the canister must tighten up similar to your usual spin-on filter: spin the bowl (canister) on until you feel drag, and give it an additional 1/4 turn. The center nut on the bottom appears to be for draining the water (if any- I've yet to find anything of substance after 16 years in the fuel).

Still perplexed at the 18 ft.lbs. of torque for the oil pan drain nut. Given that my LB7 required 62 ft lbs, I'm a bit suspicious. I'm still looking for confirmation and of course, Chevy.com is useless!!!

[chessy56]

OK- with 23K on my new (6 month old) L5P Dmax, I have changed the fuel filter and will post some pics for the benefit of those who haven't yet taken a #2D shower under these trucks. Expect to lose ~1 1/2 pints of fuel as you crack the bowl loose. Let 'er drip into a catch pan for a while.

The bowl comes off stiff until the O-ring (on the bowl) clears the housing- turn it slowly. You'll have to pull a bit on the fuel filter to dislodge it from the bowl. Seating a new filter on the bowl isn't too difficult- make sure it's straight. The filter has an inner core at the bottom which is oriented towards the bowl; the upper has an O-ring that mates to the housing. The bowl has the torque specs for both the bowl and the water drain nut molded onto the outer surface of the bowl. The drain nut takes an 18mm wrench, the bowl nut (molded to the bowl) takes a 36mm wrench/socket.

The filter kit comes with 2 O-rings- the big one goes on the bowl (which you'll see upon disassembly) and the little one goes onto the tip of a plastic stem which is positioned in the housing itself. I didn't lube the big O-ring before reassembly- maybe I should've.

The bowl threads back onto the housing, but you'll probably find that the 25 (+5) Nm spec will be exceeded when the O-ring makes contact with the housing. Better to mark where the filter was originally before removal (mine req'd ~3 full revs to seat). Priming the system is simple: turn ignition key to Run mode and wait 15 seconds. Turn off and repeat- mine fired right up w/o any air entrapment.

Overall- messy P.I.T.A.!!! Either buy a replacement assembly (as that bowl gives my pause) or change the damned thing out for something more robust. Neither the GMC nor Chevy dealerships have ANY procedure documented on how to change the filter itself (several places reference changing the fuel filter, but no diagrams/instructions on "how to" and, the Chevy Owner's Center is about as useless as tits on a boar pig)!

[chessy56]

BTW: 39 ft lbs on the oil pan drain bolt. Expect oil to drip on the cross member directly below it and removal of the oil filter makes a mess too...

[More Power]

Thanks Chessy. Was the owner's manual useful for information concerning fuel filter replacement?

[chessy56]

Owner's manual describes and shows the location of the fuel filter for van applications, with "pickup trucks similar". They give you the p/n of the filter and the recommended change interval, but no mention on how to change it out (at least not that I've noticed)!

[Ski4Life]

For anyone who finds this thread, thought I'd post this link to a YouTube video that shows the procedure. A short (3 minute), no BS video that clearly tells you how to change the filter. I'm not the most "mechanically inclined" but this video made me confident that I could easily do the job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uydPLriQvbs


Hope this helps someone in the future!