Date of manufacture

[Phildo]

I have read the notes on how to tell when the V8 block was made but the posts don't seem to talk about recent codes

I have a block with 506 on either side of the V and in the valley I can see 12555506

Does this mean it was manufactured 2012 5 May and it's a 506 or does the code mean something else ?

Any help appreciated

Phil
Melbourne Australia

[DmaxMaverick]

No. That's the full cast code (506 is only the last 3 digits). The date code will be on the rear of the block, where the bell housing mounts.

[Robyn]

If you have a late block that was mfg by Navistar for AMG (Post GM ) then the following data is useful


The first two digits are the month, the next two digits are the day of the month, and the letter indicates the year in which it was cast. So, a "03 17 L" would be March 17, 2004.

H = 2001
J = 2002
K = 2003
L = 2004
M = 2005
N = 2006
P = 2007

As Maverick mentioned the date code (Julian date) is on the rear flange of the block just ahead of the bell housing surface right behind the RH head.

GM cast blocks are coded differently and the code usually begins with a letter.

LETTER-XX-XX

Letter denotes the month
Two numbers are the day
Final numbers are the year... these can be a single digit

C-06-6 would be March 6th 1996

Being a 506 casting # makes it a 6.5

Another set of marks to look for to be sure who made the block (GM or Navistar...AMG)

A figure like this <> will be cast in the valley on the later blocks cast by Navistar for AMG.

There should also be an oil pressure port in the valley about mid way forward on the left side (looking from rear) as well as the oil pressure port behind the left head on the flange.

The blocks cast after 2000 If I remember correctly also saw the oil cooler ports go to 1/2" pipe thread from the earlier 3/8" pipe thread. (Ports on lower left side of block by the filter)

[Phildo]

Thanks folks - much appreciated.

I'm looking but still can't find it - the motor is in the car right now should I be able to see it under the cables in the pic ?

My engine was imported from the States ?? And installed 12 Dec 13.
Also what happens to the code next year (assuming the codes I've listed after 2007 are correct)

P = 2007
Q=2008
R=2009
S=2010
T=2011
U=2012
V=2013
W=2014
X=2015
Y=2016
Z=2017

[DmaxMaverick]

The date code won't be normally (easily) seen while installed in a truck. It is on top of the engine block, behind the right side head, immediately forward of the tranny bell housing. Perhaps a contortionists would do better than I. Add to that, locating it is far from actually reading it, especially on a dirty engine.

Once we run out of engine codes, we won't need any more. The world will end. It seems this year is the last year, so live it up!

[trbankii]

I have read the notes on how to tell when the V8 block was made but the posts don't seem to talk about recent codes

Was this the post you were reading from? It shows pictures of the codes and where things are located.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=24325

[Robyn]

YUP...THATS THE PICCY

As Maverick said..

North Korea is gonna blow things to hell with their nukes, and what is not ashes will glow in the dark for 10,000 years :eek:

[More Power]

The date code won't be normally (easily) seen while installed in a truck. It is on top of the engine block, behind the right side head, immediately forward of the tranny bell housing. Perhaps a contortionists would do better than I. Add to that, locating it is far from actually reading it, especially on a dirty engine.

Once we run out of engine codes, we won't need any more. The world will end. It seems this year is the last year, so live it up!

I have suggested that a strip of modeling clay might be used to create an impression of the date code, which would then allow someone to read the code.

[DmaxMaverick]

I have suggested that a strip of modeling clay might be used to create an impression of the date code, which would then allow someone to read the code.

That would probably work. I've used cellophane tape. Scotch tape doesn't work as well as the tape I used for lifting latent finger prints, but no everyone has access to that. The problem is usually more of dirt/grease covering the area, which makes locating it difficult, let alone actually lifting an imprint.

[Robyn]

If you have access/use of one of the little "Bore scopes" with a LCD screen then simply wiggle the scope end behind the head and take a peek at the area.

A link to ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/WIFI-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescope-Inspection-Camera-USB-For-iPhone-Android-/401309828575?var=&hash=item5d6fee05df:m:mgOmz7-o-MZzlxAPqTm5bug

One of these little Whiz bangs should gitterdone easily and cheap too.

[Phildo]

Thanks for all the replies - I missed the photo but now I've seen it and fully understand where it's located now - mmmm tricky to get to when the motor is installed and it's stamped upside down when viewed from above when the motor is installed.

[Phildo]

I might try squirting some engine degreaser down there then try wiping it and using blue tack to get an impression !

[Phildo]

Well guys I have tried n tried n craned my neck and tried to feel for the stamp to no avail. There's too many cables in the way.

Unfortunately the motor ran out of coolant last week in a catastrophic cloud of steam n white smoke and is prob cooked/seized.

It's going to be removed in the next month so I'll look then.

Thanks for your help.