IP Installation Pointers

[Aftermath]

So I've been building a 2007 GEP Optimizer, taking it slow and steady. Long block assembled ready to install the IP.

Now I'm removing the IP from my 1995 siezed engine so I can install on my new engine, and looking for any advice, tricks, pointers etc that will ease the pain.

Thanks yall !!!

[DmaxMaverick]

It's simple, so try to not complicate it. There are some do's and don'ts, though. Tighten the pump flange last, after all the line nuts are tightened. This will minimize stress on the lines. Also, if you intend to optimize the TDCO, only snug them until that is complete, and only semi-tighten the line nuts at the pump, as you will want to loosen and torque them afterward to relieve stress on the lines. Double/triple check the gear bolt torque. Use blue Loc-Tite on a clean-thread install. Verify the line installation at the pump with a diagram. It's easy to reverse the two bottom lines.

Don't connect power to the ESS until after the fuel system is primed to the filter. Don't tighten the injector lines at the injectors until after the lines are primed. Don't install the glow plugs until the fuel system is fully primed (minimizes engine cranking stress, and prevents damaging them during engine install).

[Aftermath]

DmaxMaverick, what is the best way to optimize the TDCO?

[DmaxMaverick]

Engine up to operating temp. It's best to do it with a scan tool, but not necessarily required. Just nudge it advanced a little at a time until it complains (usually about -1 to -1.5 degrees), then back off a little until it doesn't. It should get you in the ideal neighborhood (-2.54, IIRC). If EGT's and/or ECT's increase much, back off a little until that normalizes. It will probably "rattle" a little more, but it shouldn't be much. If you don't notice improvement, the injectors are probably outa whack, for one reason or another (worn out, low pressure, or not properly balanced).