Oil prime 6.5 TD

[ulhpilot]

My truck has been sitting for a while during extensive frame and body work. I would like to get oil circulating before starting, like after a engine rebuild. What is the best way to oil prime a 6.5?

[DmaxMaverick]

The oil pump can be driven with a drill, but the effort (and tools/adapters) involved will not gain anything without a specific reason for it. If it was last shut down with quality oil in it, and the crankcase isn't contaminated with anything, just crank it. Changing the oil and filter is a good idea. I'd shut off the fuel (disconnect the wire at the IP or pull the fuse), pull the GP's, and crank a bit once it gets oil pressure (20-30 seconds). No-load cranking won't cause damage. I've done this with rigs and tractors (not just 6.2/6.5's) after idle for 10-40 years. If the oil in the pan looks good, don't sweat it.

[ulhpilot]

Thanks Dmax. The last thing I did before lay up was change the oil including filling the filter. So I guess I can be confident I'll have fresh oil circulating after a few seconds of cranking. Compared to your long term examples my 6 months downtime seems like nothing.

[DmaxMaverick]

6 months is nothing, unless something happened that may change the conditions. If it had fresh oil in it and isn't contaminated, it'll be just fine. I still recommend the no-load cranking, though. Removing the GP's and stopping the fuel will do that. It's also an opportunity to prime/purge the fuel system. Change the fuel filter (even if it's relatively fresh), open the water drain, and let it pump into a container. This will allow any water that may have settled in the tank to be removed. A tank of fresh fuel is recommended, but not necessary if the system was healthy before.

[3and3oneton]

could I guy use that no load cranking method prior to firing off a new engine?

[Robyn]

You can, but I don't recommend it.

Scare up an old rear vacuum pump/oil pump drive.

Modify it as below

Grind the teeth off the gear at the bottom of the unit (goes down in the block)

Grind the teeth off flush with the lower hub of the drive (The hub drives the oil pump in the engine)

Make sure you remove any grit before placing in the engine (Wash in solvent)

Remove the vacuum pump portion and discard.

On the top of the drive is a soft plug type plug, remove it to gain access to the shaft inside.

Weld a nut onto the shaft to allow turning the shaft.

The area just above the drive gear has a journal area with a grove around, and this directs the oil frtom the pump into the engine oil galleries.

This device is the best oil priming tool available.

Just spinning the pump will not lube the engine (using an extension and socket)

The prime tool is the only real easy way.


In the large grove at the bottom is a tiny hole that must be plugged up.

It can be slightly enlarged and then cleaned with brake kleen and the a dab of JB weld placed and allowed to cure, or the hole can be peen'd shut with a hammer and small punch

This is the lube hole for the pump which once the top of the unit is off will cause a major oil leak MESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS :eek:

There will be plenty of lube for the use as a prime tool

Here are a couple pics

[3and3oneton]

Thanks.