Blown Trans or transfer case

[svcattle]

I think i lost either the Trans or transfer case I was cruising along about 45 mph and heard a grinding noise now I have no forward gears . I was able to get turned around and reverse home i was able to go 30 mph in reverse but the popping noise was still there . I got home my driveway Is on kind of a down hill grade and I also have no park Either . Any ideas ??
Thanks Shaun

[svcattle]

Well I used my trusty stethoscope and Transfer case was making a terrible noise was really hoping maybe the chain was slipping on the drive gears but the chain and everything looks good inside so before I drop the Trans is there anything else I should look for??
Thanks Shaun

[DmaxMaverick]

The description sounds like the TC, and if your stethoscope test is good, the TC may was likely binding going forward. Driving any distance after the initial event probably killed it, perhaps to a point it isn't repairable. Pull the drain plug and see what comes out. Use a magnet in your drain pan. If it's bearing and gear pieces, the case is probably trashed. If it's just a broken drum or planetary gear, it may not be so bad (except for the driving-it-home-in-reverse part, maybe).

You don't have to remove the tranny, if it's good. Once the adapter is loosened from the TC, linkage, connectors and shaft disconnected, it will slide out. If the TC is a NV246 ("Auto 4x4"), start the paperwork for a second mortgage. If the model ends in a "3" (push-button, mechanical-electric shift 4x4), they aren't too bad. Make sure you use the correct fluid for either, they are different. ATF for the "push-button", or Auto-Trac II/III for the "Auto 4x4". Some say Dexron VI is compatible with the Auto-Trac fluid, but I'm not buying into it, just yet. A simple fluid mistake is too expensive.

[svcattle]

Thanks for the reply buddy . I drained the Trans have not pulled the pan yet but the oil was bright red clean not burnt and no particles came out of either the Trans or transfer case . This transmission only has 67772 miles which I know doesn't mean much but that's the history it was a reman from j&g transmisions Murray Utah

[DmaxMaverick]

You may have lucked out. I'll reserve further speculation, pending the postmortem.

[svcattle]

So I guess I should get the pan off next and see what's in there ..! Is there a drain on the converter on these? I've been running dexron xi fluid changed it twice back to back and changed the filter once just because I wanted to clean the transmisions insides good before I put it to work . I have the electric shift transfer case .

[svcattle]

Here what's in the pan the spot left of the magnet isn't shrapnel it's a spot weld where somebody tried drilling for the drain plug then realized there was a spot in the pan already made for a drain plug

[DmaxMaverick]

The pan and fluid looks fine. I'd change the filter (since you're in there), bolt it on, and wait to fill it up until you're done with the TC mess (less weight to wrestle around). The converter does not have a drain, unless it's aftermarket with one, specifically. Usually, 2 fluid swaps will clean it out enough to call it good. It doesn't look like it will be an issue, in any case. I do an engine-idle fluid flush when I service my autos, so a drain is not needed.

[svcattle]

Ok I got the converter cover off ill post a couple pics I thought the pan was super clean especially since it had just a hair over 16000 miles on it . I got the bolts out of the of the converter I spun it buy hand couldn't hear anything bad inside guess we will have to wait untill I get the Trans slid back and get er off and I'll post more pics anything else I need to look for before going any further ? What service interval do use for your automatics ? I do my manual transmission at 15 or 20,000

[svcattle]

Pics with the cover off

[DmaxMaverick]

Looks like an OEM converter. I think you're barking up the wrong tree. Fix the broken TC (Transfer Case) and it should be good to go.

[svcattle]

You do think it's the transfer case Then ?? so far no harm done as I was going to change the transmission oil and filter again anyway only extra work I've done is pull the cross over pipe off the manifolds and unbolted the converter but that's no big deal though . I will continue to dis assemble the transfer case and see what I can see I guess a good thing was I planning to add a pyrometer anyway and I see where the probe mounted under the left manifold in the cross over tube Is the best place to put it

[svcattle]

Just another pic

[DmaxMaverick]

I "think" it's the transfer case, for a few reasons. A noise that wasn't present before the failure, identified with your stethoscope. Clean tranny fluid with no debris or visible contamination. Typical history. However, I could be wrong. Something as simple as worn shift fork insulators can cause issues that lead to premature failure. Helical gears have a bias, and can cause a directional bias (such as only being able to drive in reverse). This, coupled with other issues, can be a noisy event. So far, you only have a noise indicator in reverse, primarily because that's the only direction it will engage. I suspect forward engagement is prevent by a physical breakage, of some sort. Split the case and have a look. What you find shouldn't be too difficult to identify.

I'm not sure what the last pic is supposed to show. Looks like the dirty side of a truck, in its correct orientation.

[JeepSJ]

The tcase is a simple rebuild. A chain and a small parts kit and anything that is broken. Parts are readily available. I would have expected the fluid to have metallic flakes though. Are you sure it is fully engaged into 4-hi?

Also have to checked to see if the driveshaft is spinning when you try to move the vehicle? Could be blown ring and pinion.

[trbankii]

The tcase is a simple rebuild. A chain and a small parts kit and anything that is broken. Parts are readily available. I would have expected the fluid to have metallic flakes though. Are you sure it is fully engaged into 4-hi?

Also have to checked to see if the driveshaft is spinning when you try to move the vehicle? Could be blown ring and pinion.

I’m hoping he isn’t using 4-hi on the highway. And a broken ring and pinion would pretty much kill any movement - not just forward gears.

[svcattle]

Nooe no 4wd on the highway unless it's snowing or ice even then I usually just slow down and try not use it on the road . Here's the story I just returned from a 200 mile trip the day before went out got in the truck drove about 2 miles round trip over to the neighbors to look at a backhoe cruised through town headed home was only about a 1/4 mile from the house my nephew said this is a pretty good old truck and I said ya just took it 200 miles only used a 1/4 tank fuel right then it felt like we hit bump and it the engine raced no forward drive kept coasting to a stop only had reverse . reversed home about 1/4 mile had to reverse down the road to turn around got it in the shop now trying to figure out what's going on now . I split the transfer case part way it looks good so far I will go continue with the disassembly and post back
Thanks Shaun

[svcattle]

Input shaft and range shifter have the teeth stripped off

[svcattle]

Other pic didn't load

[svcattle]

Anybody have the torque specs for the converter to flex plate bolts ?
Thanks Shaun

[DmaxMaverick]

Good find. I'm surprised there wasn't at least some sparkly stuff in the fluid you drained.

The converter to flex plate torque is 46 ft/lb. Use new bolts (with dry thread locker pre-applied), or use blue Loc-Tite on reused clean bolts.

[svcattle]

Thanks I sprayed the old Bolts off and blue loctite them found the torque spec in my chilton manual I guess they are good for something ! As far as sparkles I can't believe there wasn't any either there was a small chunk on the one gear when I finished splitting it but that was it

[JeepSJ]

I’m hoping he isn’t using 4-hi on the highway. And a broken ring and pinion would pretty much kill any movement - not just forward gears.

Oops, I meant 2-hi.

[JeepSJ]

Input shaft and range shifter have the teeth stripped off

Check the linkage adjustment when you get it back together. Looks like it wasn't fully engaged.

[trbankii]

Check the linkage adjustment when you get it back together. Looks like it wasn't fully engaged.

That’s a concern that I have with these vacuum and electric front axle engagement systems - whether it has actually fully engaged it or not. I’ve been meaning to upgrade both of mine to a Posi-Lok (or similar) setup.

[svcattle]

Check the linkage adjustment when you get it back together. Looks like it wasn't fully engaged.

I got thinking that to is there any way to test the movement of the electric shift motor to see if it is moving all the way ?

[svcattle]

Well somebody had been In the case once before me I found lots of black silicone and I also found out why it is not shifting all the way who ever was in here before thought it would be a good idea to just leave the shift fork pads off the range shift fork!!

[svcattle]

All the parts came today for the tramssfer case hope my pyro probe and Trans gauge will get her Monday . Anyway here's some pics from the rebuild found a lot of junk in the pickup screen for the oil pump also found a bunch of junk in the case in the nook and crannys

[svcattle]

Pickup screen caked with junk