new to diesel

[kdg79]

I just picked up a 1999 k2500 ext cab long box with a 6.5. it has a relocated pmd, newer stock turbo but other wise stock. I plan on using this as my work vehicle towing 20+ ft landscape trailers, skid steer trailer and dump trailers. I have been doing a lot of reading and there is so much info and thoughts it gets rather confusing. What mods can I do to get the most performance out of this truck? this is my first diesel so I am open to any suggestions.

[jrsavoie]

4" stainless exhaust with a ball and socket or flanged connection where the down pipe meets the exhaust pipe. I like Heart throb from Minnesota.

I had aluminized on my 94 and the down pipe rotted off. If you are in a rust free area you can get by with alumanized.

Feed the beast mod

Check the engine oil cooler lines. If leaking replace with an aftermarket set - Not OEM style

leroydiesel.com or lubricationspecialist.com

Keep your OEM air box.

Maybe an A Team Turbo

Use synthetic oil throughout. I have used Amsoil 5w30 heavy duty diesel oil in al of my 6.5's since the 90's

A Fluidamper.

Bypass filter. I use FS2500 or Amsoil. I have them all mounted under the hood.
On the 98 I mounted the FS2500 horizontally on the drivers side inner fender. I take out 3 or 4 bolts and remove the whole filter housing to change the filter.

I install a T just behind the radiator in the return line from the engine oil cooler line to supply the filters and return to a nipple welded into the engine oil fill neck. I weld the nipple in, pointing slightly down to minimize splash when taking the fill cap off with the engine running.

A set of gauges. In my opinion, on a stock truck, the most important gauge would be a fuel pressure gauge just before the injection pump

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Hard to say what mods you will benefit most from. Are you looking for just power or longevity with some power?
For longevity:
- make sure your cooling system is in good order, clean between the radiator and AC.
- make sure the electrical system is in good order, good cables, glow plugs, batteries ect.
- make sure your fuel system is in good order, How many miles on the pump/injectors? has the lift pump been tested? Is the PMD in a good spot? ect
- try to find out if the head gaskets have ever been replaced.
- Fluiddamper or at least a new GOOD harmonic balancer and rubber pulley

After that stuff is done then work on power:

GAUGES!!! a must have. minimum of a boost and pyrometer, trans temp is nice but you can get that without a gauge.
- Open up the exhaust: make sure that everything is mandrel bent. Crossover and Down pipe are HUGE restriction on a stock system. Go with 4-5 inch after the down pipe. Lots of good systems out there. I live in the salt belt of northern MN, never used stainless and never had a rust problem.
- The air intake path can be cleaned up considerably for free.
- Take your pick of boost increase method and control. Mechanical or Electric. Heath and Kennedy both are great people to work with.
- Use whatever computer the boost control vendor recommends.

Heath and Kennedy are both great vendors that I have used and had great experiences with. Two different schools of thought but both are good guys.

Welcome and good luck!!!

[kdg79]

thanks for all the suggestions so far guys. can I start running a full synthetic oil on a truck with 170k? I always thought that being as synthetic is a lighter oil it would cause leaks? I liked the products offered at Heath but its a little hard to wrap my brain around the prices for the parts and the small HP gains. I'm used to gas engines and dropping 5 grand in one of them will give several hundred HP compared to the diesels only gaining maybe 100. I want to increase the power as much as possible on this while still being able to maintain a daily driver status and being reliable for long distance hauls with heavy trailers.

[jrsavoie]

I have started running synthetic well past 200,000 miles on a vehicle.

Also check your valve covers for leaks. If they are leaking don't use a gasket.

I prefer to use Right Stuff sealant. I get the little caulking gun and use a 45 degree nozzle. available at lowes, Menards, Home Depot, etc.

Injectors should be changed at 100,000 miles.

It is a good idea anymore to even have new injectors tested. One guy reportedly had 3 of the new Made in India Bosch injectors that he didn't like out of 8 new. 2 didn't have POP pressures he liked and one was a leaker.

I send mine to a joint in Michigan to get rebuilt.

For most electrical parts use only AC Delco.

I add additive every time I get fuel. I prefer to get fuel at home where I have a 2 micron filter on the 500 gallon tank.

For glow plugs use only AC Delco 60G or Bosch duraterms

For a lift pump - if staying OEM style - use an AC Delco for a 1993 - They have slightly higher capacity. I believe the lift pump for the 2000 or so might also have the higher capacity.

Use a good fuel filter. Check micron ratings before you settle on a brand.

I use Baldwin BF1201

Also a good idea to flush the cooling system

Check grounds, clean. I add grounds directly from the battery for dependability. I add a ground to the stud at the back of the engine. I have seen that stud lose continuity on several vehicles. I add a ground to the battery box bolt on the passenger side. I have seen the little screw to the fender be an issue several times.

I add a ground to the injection pump. I add a ground to the PMD heat sink. I add a ground from the heater blower motor to the dash mount bolt just inches away and a ground to the frame by the starter where the ground strap goes. I use a lot of Kopr kote on electrical connections

I also do the battery bolt mod. I use 1 1/4 stainless Allen screws instead of bolts for the mod. If the Allen screws are tapered at the end, they need to be cut straight.

I also get some metric stainless washers from fastenal that fit just right inside the rubber battery cable ends. I do not cut the rubber off.

Battery cable upgrades are also a good idea. The OEM cables are getting old and it is not a bad idea to replace them with heavier cables.

I add an OEM style cable from the alternator to the battery that is does not currently have a cable from the alternator going to it.

I use high temp anti seez on the threads on the glow plugs and injectors.

I would definitely get a spare PMD and mount it in the bumper. I mount the Heat sink so it bolts to the license plate bracket bolt by adding a nut and washer.

I position it so the connector faces towards the hole for easy access if need be. The connection is still inside the hole but you can reach it without taking anything apart.

Sometimes I have to pop rivot a piece of aluminum angle to the heat sink to accomplish this. One time I had to drill and tap the heat sink to turn the PMD 90 degrees

[Dvldog8793]

I run a 15-40 synthetic in all my diesels. Some of the newer lower rated synthetics for the new engines could maybe be a problem. If you go to amsoil web page they can give you recommendations. IMHO- my 6.2 & 6.5 like 15-40 synthetic.

IMHO again...I would take care of the reliability mods first and take the power gains one at a time. starting with exhaust and working up from there. I have had some pretty hot 6.5s, right on the edge of maximum street power and they did not last long.

With those miles on it, if the pump and injectors have never been done, it would be a good idea to get that done. Also I would replace the timing set and water pump while your at it. Use only good parts, not the cheapo stuff. The pumps can be rebuilt very reliably if you have a good local shop that's the way to go.

[jrsavoie]

For a timing set - I wouldn't mess with it until after 250,000 miles - unless you go with the gear drive set up. I've used good timing sets and had to get back in the neighborhood 50 to 70,000 miles later and they were just as loose as what I took off.

Except the engine that went 500,000 miles - it was really loose

I also have only changed 3 injection pumps in the 2 million miles we have put on our 6.5's

2 of which were changed by the dealer just because they were close to going out of warranty.

With the lack of reliability of new parts these days, I do not take off a perfectly good part to change it. It might last just as long as the new part you install regardless of the source. Since AC Delco went Chinese their parts seem to be just as susceptible to the new bad syndrome as a lot of others now.

You can remove the optic sensor filter and throw it in the trash if your truck has one.

I have also been getting new engine wiring harnesses as I work on my vehicles. The old harnesses all had a clip broke here and there and were looking a little worse for wear. That is one thing I do change before it breaks.