View Full Version : Help! Cruise Control kicks out!!!!
Gapper_ca
11-04-2003, 10:29
Help! i have a '96 gmc serria ext cab 4X4 6.5 TD.
when the cruise is set i can got from 2 miles to 50 miles and then it will kick out. on a smooth road so not by bumps. then when i reset it if it will usually will not reset for a long time. not sure as to what to check to see where problem is.
Cowracer
11-04-2003, 10:34
I'd look at the brake pedal switch. It has a seperate circuit to cancel a cruise. Sounds like the switch is flaky.
Tim
Gapper_ca
11-04-2003, 10:36
ok but what am i checking on the switch?
turbovair
11-04-2003, 12:36
Check to be sure brake pedal is not tapping it off(adjustment)also check for good open/close switching action with a meter. If it doesnt reliably and consistantly open and close each time its actuated, I would replace it.
lupey6.5
11-04-2003, 17:34
my 94 did that and it was the output speed sensor on the transfer case for my 4x4 but would be on the side of the tranny near the output. this sensor tells the computer how fast the vehicle is traveling. easy fix $40 napa part 5 min to put on.
Gapper_ca
11-06-2003, 11:05
can a obdc reader get codes that tell you what is failing??
Phil Holmen
11-06-2003, 12:13
My truck was doin the same thing it was the stop light switch. Try and hold the brake pedal up with your foot.. see if that helps...
jjbouwens
11-10-2003, 12:52
I am not sure whether this will be help to you but the GM manual dedicates 2 pages on how to check the cruise comtrol cystem. Also try to borrow a tech2 tool and check with this tool the function of the cruise control. Last but not least if you cannot find the reason borrow a new FSD, disconnect the old one and see whether your control functions. My dealer could not find why the cruise control failed and I found out that after I had replaced the FSD the cruise control did function again.
96 Winnebago Brave /relocated new FSD with home made cooler/gauges/light booster/additional manual lift pump control via relay/manual control el. aux. fan.
Barry Nave
11-10-2003, 16:56
It does work after recycle key though?
A variety of transmission issues can kick out the cruise control - get the codes checked.
Does the cruise work consistently under 45 MPH and inconsistently above 55 MPH? If the transmission thinks the torque converter clutch should be locking up but isn't you can get a transmission slipping code that kicks the cruise off.
A couple of years ago I had a very similar problem. It started by kicking the cruise out intermittently and eventually got to the point that it would kick the cruise control out every time I got above 50 MPH - just when the torque converter clutch was supposed to engage. Mine ended up being a problem in the ECM due to a faulty contact in the TCC circuit not grounding.
I currently have some other transmission problems that also kick the cruise control off.
Good luck.
If the cruise brake switch (seperate from stoplight but in same switch assy) is workig, I'd lean towards PMD/FSD beginning signs of failure. When the engine begins to stall for no apparent reason this will be confirmed...
MTTwister
11-17-2003, 14:27
New Member - 96 Chevy k2500 diesel - towed a Horse trailer for 6+ years with it - God looks after the ignorant.
I just got done fighting the same deal,with the local GM shop btw, but I had an additional symptom - there would be a random miss while going done the road - sometimes major miss, sometimes barely feel it. I started taking it in and complaining about 2 years ago. Finally was able to leave it for 3 days, reminding them of what they had done before ( 1+ years and no need to rip the dash apart again ), and that I thought it was a miss in the injector pump, which would cause the cruise to drop out. Took 'em 2 days, but it finally tossed a few codes, and they replaced the injecotr pump - under warranty. Did get me $$ for a Fuel lift Pump, but I had no idea what or where it was. Oh well, I'm here to get educated.
Gapper_ca
11-19-2003, 08:13
hopeing to get a code reader today to check
it feels like the brake is pressed when it kicks out.
but the engine is running fine, no miss or lack of power.
after it kicks out it will not reset or resume tho.
Gapper_ca
11-20-2003, 06:41
Ok had the codes read.
3 showed up . p1216---fuel solenoid respose time too short
p1217-- too long
p0236--tc boost system
checked all thru system nothing was not working or wrong. drove home and then to work today , over 1 hr and no problems with cruise.
only conceren from mechanic was that volts were at 12.7 and he thought that it was cranking too slow. so i will do the batter cabe upgrade today to get volts up to 13.7
will continue to watch and if happens he will lend me the snapon tool and go for a drive to see what is shuttin git off, tend to be leading towards a faulty brake switch.
thank you for all the info
Gapper_ca
11-21-2003, 12:36
ok cruise worked fine then on my way home would not work at all. next moring it worked fine again!!
did the upgrade for the battery wires. WOW did that make a difference ! should have done that long ago.
Gapper_ca
12-08-2003, 11:04
First Thank you to all who have helped out.
this is truely a great place for info.
cruise was working off and on again,
went to maitence shop at work to fix a leaking rear tire. on eof the guys there sugested to clean out the brake drums as they were squealing a little. Lo and Behold... rear brakes were not set up properly!!!!! so after adjusting them so that they would actually be used to stop the truck!!! cruse has worked just fine. not sure but think that maybe cause the brakes were backed all the way off that brake peadel was loose and would set off the switch??? will watch and see hope that was it. Now truck stops really good.
Originally posted by Gapper_ca:
Ok had the codes read.
3 showed up . p1216---fuel solenoid respose time too short
p1217-- too long
There's the culprit...
I agree with previous post. I also had problems with cruse that a PMD cured, with those same codes.
Gapper_ca,
Where did you buy the battery wire upgrade for your truck? Turning anything on shows a drop in my voltage. I have the same slow cranking starter.
Gapper_ca
12-10-2003, 07:49
gmenor
i just changed out the oem bolts for the batter cables to some 3/8 x1 inbolts. there is a article on the site somewhere(can't remember where) that has some very good descriptions on how to do it. took all of 20 minutes and seems to be better.
Gapper_ca,
Thanks, I read the same article and never got around to doing it. I thought there was some amazing new cable out there.
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