First Diesel truck, only ever owned tractors

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

This truck is nice. Entire drive train was rebuilt about 35,000 miles ago including engine rebuild. received a new front lift pump 2 years ago. I just received this truck and it sat dead for 2 years. Lift pump was not running, I jumped a lead that is key/motor running on to the fuel relay on to the lift pump relay. My mystery is this. 2 good batteries replaced at the same time, identical in every way, new fuel filter, new air filter. Truck runs fantastic. No service engine light was on, but I checked for codes; 78. I the whole time had no turbo boost registering on the guage. Had oil/fuel coming out of back of guage so I replaced it. One bolt was missing from top of upper intake so I removed upper intake, cleaned gasket (brake parts cleaner/rag/replace/retorque) . New boost meter, mechanical-spring operate waste gate , cut the catalytic converter/soot collector out. Still "0" turbo boost. I have a small amount of black smoke on heavy acceleration, and enough power from the motor to break those dualls loose through I think gears 1-2-3 on my gravel road...Exhaust temps on these 1-2 mile test runs are not much over 600. Bought a heavier duty compression spring today, thinking about some permatex aviation sealent for that uper intake gasket...killing me here. I don't need to hear it whistle, just want to have it not be the death of the truck.
Some background. I traded my quad for this truck that was not running that was my hunting rig that I was using to plow 2 miles of road with. It was going to kill the 16 year old Polaris. I m surrounded by senior citizens and it would kill me if I wasn't doing everything I could to keep the road open. It takes our road commission 3 days to get to us after any kind of good snow. I traded 2 rifles for a western unimount plow for this truck today and now just have to come up with a mount to bolt to the truck and a wiring harness. SO I am not looking to "flip this truck". This truck will get fixed up, driven when needed and hopefully be the reason someones parents/grandparents could live another day. This was the case 7 or 8 years ago for "drunk Jim" when I was plowing with my 9N. I think the ambulance could have got down here well enough, but I am glad I was making it easier.
Hopefully someone has had this problem I have been lurking in the shadows on these forums via google long enough. Happy to finally join.

[trbankii]

It would help to say what truck you have. The years here span both the MFI and EFI versions of the 6.5TD - as well as some other variations depending on model. There are a few clues (dual wheels?), but we’re guessing here.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

It would help to say what truck you have. The years here span both the MFI and EFI versions of the 6.5TD - as well as some other variations depending on model. There are a few clues (dual wheels?), but we’re guessing here.


It is a 1995 Chevy 6.5 turbo diesel extended cab 3500 dully 4x4 and thank God for the long box!

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

Just added the heavier compression spring to the waste gate. My old boost gauge would go into the negative (vacuum) and so is this new one when I rev it at an idle. I believe it has went to about 2 or 3 psi once upon a time revved at idle. Turbo spins nice and free, barely any end play, a little sledge but the old air filter was the worst i had ever seen. You could have planted flowers in what came out of it. The thing is like I said, this truck runs like a raped ape! My neighbor was just behind me riding my tail, I was able to floor it, roll some coal and leave him in the rear view no problem! What am I missing? The turbo port is threaded into the upper intake a few inches from the rubber boot where it connects to the turbo if that helps.

@7:52 Just pulled sending unit to check health of sock filter. Nice and clean, almost new. Inside of tank was impressively shiny, outside of tank was solid. Rubber lines split upon being pulled. Any suggestions on a good rubber line to use from front to back tomorrow? Would air sucking through sub-par hoses cause 0 boost and hard starts?

[trbankii]

The turbo port is threaded into the upper intake a few inches from the rubber boot where it connects to the turbo if that helps.

Wait… You have the port in front of the turbo? That would mean you’re measuring the intake - which will be a vacuum.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

The port was installed by previous owner in the metal/cast tube of the upper one piece intake tube that is if facing the truck standing in front of it to the right of the rubber bot that connects the upper intake to the turbo. That long about 2.50 diameter tube.

[rapidoxidationman]

pictures, even only one, would be helpful.
Are you sure that the port is plugged into the pressure side of the turbo (the outlet, not the inlet)? The vacuum (inlet) side of the turbo goes into the center of the turbo. The pressure (outlet) side comes off the edge. If your turbo wasn't working you'd know it by smoke and the butt dyno...

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

how do i post a pic. if I can email it to you I can have it out in 5 minutes or less.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

http://https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=79942502f4&view=fimg&th=150ac16d16c789ff&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=1516236855876517888-local0&safe=1&attbid=ANGjdJ8156h9Ady9A75v8SA3xhik-amPl0UaWwAr9RgnP8Yw4JPwkjJPPDJGk39IOxntl8lZ0i2EITA 7-duU4CIozeIoTrCwMmwIC2y2ZA9jxnHACLODmbvHbzzZbxI&ats=1445996819190&rm=150ac16d16c789ff&zw&sz=w1332-h537

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

maybe now?

[trbankii]

Ok, you’re on the correct side of the turbo for your gauge. When you said “boot” it sounded like you were talking about this (red arrow) when you meant that (yellow arrow).

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3133&stc=1&d=1446020108

I think you’re saying you put in a new gauge? But have you tested the line from the manifold to the gauge? Could be clogged and not giving you a reading.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

This was the brand new line that came with the meter, and of course way to short. While installing i capped the ends with vacuum boots and electrical tape. Soon, maybe today I will buy longer line.
I am also replacing at least the fuel line from the tank to the LP, to filter, to IP, and return line. Think I read its 3/8 supply and 1/4 return in the forums here. Going to also install a check port after the filter housing to check my fuel pressure. Wonder if any of this would help boost...couldn't hurt. Should help the hard start.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

As a current college student at age 36 trying to move up in the Department I have learned if nothing else, one thing about myself a little late in life. This is that some times I just need to talk the things that seem illogical out until I can find the logic. With this being said, correct me if I am wrong.
A turbo is essentially (keep in mind I am use to tractors/no turbo) a unit that has found a way for the tooter to help the rooter to eat. If the connection from the tooter to the rooter is not sealed properly, their will be no boost to show on the gauge, as the way that the turbine spins is by the force of the exhaust gasses. In short. I climbed under my truck to start cutting fuel lines to go to the auto parts store with the right sizes, spray some Fluid film on the drivers side LP connections just in case; what did I see? Sooot! Allllll over the drivers side. Upon further inspection I was able to completely wiggle the crossover pipe. The doughnut gasket is gone! I am hoping and praying that the studs come out easy and I can replace them and have me some boost! fingers crossed!

[trbankii]

Sounds like you’re onto something. Yes. If the exhaust system from the engine to the turbo is not sealed, you won’t get the pressure to properly spin the turbo.

[Robyn]

If the "cat" has been gutted, then the flow should be fine.

Exhaust leaks (that could hamper the turbo) will be quite evident with noise from any leaks

I'm starting to wonder if the turbine wheel (hot side of the turbo) has been damaged ???

Where is the pyro probe in the exhaust ????

If the turbine has been damaged this would explain the no boost.

Reving the engine will not make boost.
You need the engine under a load.

Post a piccy of the waste gate control (spring device)

There is the possibility that the waste gate is damaged of has lost the flap inside.

Does the waste gate arm on the housing move back and forth freely ????

More info

Missy

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

If the "cat" has been gutted, then the flow should be fine.

Exhaust leaks (that could hamper the turbo) will be quite evident with noise from any leaks

I'm starting to wonder if the turbine wheel (hot side of the turbo) has been damaged ???

Where is the pyro probe in the exhaust ????

If the turbine has been damaged this would explain the no boost.

Reving the engine will not make boost.
You need the engine under a load.

Post a piccy of the waste gate control (spring device)

There is the possibility that the waste gate is damaged of has lost the flap inside.

Does the waste gate arm on the housing move back and forth freely ????

More info

Missy

Yes, it was a loud noisy beast, SHould have known.
I think the exhaust side might be fine.
I believe my probe might be in the turbo down pipe, because after cutting the exhaust just before the cat for diagnostics..still reading egt.
Waste gate does move.
And now for the update....

YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! replaced lines from sending unit to steel, popped in the exhaust gasket doughnut, turned the key forward (LP is hard wired for ignition forward/on motor run) and the lines were pretty much bleed before I could turn the bleeders. What did I have? 10lbs of boost at redline folks!!!! Shes alive!!!! Now for some glow plugs to solve my hard start. Going to do some research/ take suggestions on the best glow plugs. Whats up with the regular start/fast start glow plugs? I also need to change my thermostat. Previous people had a 210 in it. Exhaust gasses have stayed around 600 just driving 55 and under.

[a5150nut]

See John Kennedy advertiser here on TDP he has the glow plugs.

You should really get the lift pump back to the oil pressure relay switch. It is a safety feature. If you roll and sitting there hanging up side down with the fuel pump running I guarantee you will be wishing you had it hooked up correctly.

Glad you got her back in shape so easy. The 6.5 is a very capable motor. Just needs the proper care and feeding. Something else you will want to check since she sat so long is the engine ground connections. Especially on the right head near the rear of the motor. CLEAN ground connections all the way around will eliminate a lot of gremlins down the road.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

This is my plan. Next paycheck, oil sending unit. Has been since the finding of it. Also, their is a braided ground strap in the passenger side front wheel well broke and hanging. I am a Fluid Film guy. In all things; FLUID FILM. My brother turned me onto it years ago. I am soon to spray my glow plugs with it. I sprayed all electrical connectors I came in contact with today with it. I sprayed all the fuel fitting connections at the LP with it for future repairs. The stuff is aerosol gold. Especially on a vehicle that has been sitting. Also I do not like the 210 degree operating temp. Will be getting a cooler thermostat.

[a5150nut]

John Kennedy has thermostats too. He also has an improved fan clutch. Heat is you biggest battle with the 6.5. Might want to separate the cooling stack and remove any birds nests, bugs, and dirt. On mine I ran nylon window screen in front of the radiator. All the bugs in the Sacramento valley would hit the screen and it would flex enough that they fell off when you stopped and not be impaled on the cooling fins.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

I will have to look up this "John Kennedy" . I was thinking about an electric fan later on down the road. For right now this truck is literally just the neighborhood life saver. It's going to keep us from being prisoners to the snow in the up and coming winter months.

[Robyn]

Glow plugs 60G is the gold standard. These are tough as nails and don't swell when they die.

I would forget the electric fan thing, as they just don't move enough wind

Step up and replace the fan clutch.
The 6.5 generates a huge amount of heat and needs a hurricane wind machine to cool it when the weather is hot and the rig is working hard.

John Kennedy has the trick stuff ;)

[trbankii]

John at Kennedy Diesel can be found in the advertisers’ section at the top of the page: http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm

I agree with Robyn - you don’t want an electric fan as cooling is one of the main issues in these beasts.

[arveetek]

I would also recommend John Kennedy's fuel lift pump harness:

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=402

I've got one on my Tahoe that is about 10 years old now, and I love it! Easy to prime the system after fuel filter change, no more changing OPS out regularly, etc.

Casey

[a5150nut]

I will have to look up this "John Kennedy" . I was thinking about an electric fan later on down the road. For right now this truck is literally just the neighborhood life saver. It's going to keep us from being prisoners to the snow in the up and coming winter months.

Look in the Vendors section here on TDP

[jrsavoie]

I would also recommend John Kennedy's fuel lift pump harness:

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=402

I've got one on my Tahoe that is about 10 years old now, and I love it! Easy to prime the system after fuel filter change, no more changing OPS out regularly, etc.

Casey

I wish Kennedy would post a better description of his lift pump wiring upgrade.

Maybe a wiring schematic.. I believe what he has is about the same same as the dual lift pump relay upgrade.

If you google dual lift pump relay upgrade you should find a schematic.

If you make your own, I prefer to use mountable relay sockets as opposed to mountable relays.

Do not cut and splice like most of the schematics show. Get plugs to match the lift pump and source the trigger for the relay from the lift pump plug and return to the lift pump.

I use 14 ga. or bigger wire. The OEM wiring is undersized in my opinion.

I also add a safety or weatherproof toggle switch for priming and doing diagnostics. On the 1996 and newer 6.5's I use the spade connector between the firewall and the under hood fuse box to hook in the fused toggle switch.

This will remove the load from the OPS as it will only be used to trigger the relay after the upgrade. Often you can do this upgrade with a "bad" OPS.

In my experience, a bad OPS that will not put out enough juice to run a lift pump will still put out enough juice to trigger a relay.

I have been running 2 vehicles like this for years. If the OPS is not putting out enough juice to trigger the relay - I haven't seen that, but I am sure it happens - then you obviously have to change the OPS as well

Use only AC Delco or GM parts for most electrical stuff.

I've picked up the AC Delco 60G glow plugs from Autozone for $8.99 each.

The only other glow plug to use would be the Bosch duraterms.

For the fan upgrade you can order OEM parts for a 2000 6.5 diesel.

Upgrading to the dual thermostat housing is not necessary or even desirable in my opinion.

Watch you engine oil cooler lines. If they are leaking do not replace with OEM style lines. Get a kit or make one similar to what's available from leroydiesel.com or lubricationspecialist.com

I add a T in the return line from the engine oil cooler just behind the radiator to feed my bypass filters. I return to a nipple I weld to the engine oil fill neck

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

The fact that this is my refference sheet for when I have soem money. This will be my "grocery list" on my phone. :)

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

SO yesterday I go to fire her up to install the plow mount. The starter grinds. First thought; dead battery. I didn't know why, didn't make sense. Walked to the battery charger, turned to look at the truck and what did I see? A starter bolt on the ground looking back at me! I literally said out loud- you had better have all of your #@*&# threads! Of course it did not. Short story long, previous owner installed a brand new starter, did not fasten the rear bracket, was in-fact bent. I retrieved the broken threads, the other bolt was of course bent. Cleaned both holes out with a tap and break parts cleaner. Straightened the bracket, went to the stealership for the bolts, fastenal for the 1/4x20 hardened allen head and lock washer and put her back together. I do realize how lucky I am. I know some of these break the block.
Also came across some money. Will be taking this to the stealership to have the glow plugs done for the hardstart. Let them take the chance for 348 bucks. They said it could be 200 more if they run into a challenge. I laughed and said, I will drop it off tomorrow after I get tires on it!

Put in the 195 thermostat, cleaned out the radiator fins and used scrubbing bubbles. Think it's time for the severe duty fan clutch. I believe mine has a few bolts rather than the one big one? Quotes are around $160? The truck still goes up to almost 210 but quickly back down. Otherwise runs like a champ.

[a5150nut]

Did you clean between the stack when you cleaned the radiator? Have seen what looked to be birds nest between radiator and condenser or condenser and oil cooler.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

By stack do you mean the other coolers? If so then yes. Looked like a mulch pile.

[jrsavoie]

SO yesterday I go to fire her up to install the plow mount. The starter grinds. First thought; dead battery. I didn't know why, didn't make sense. Walked to the battery charger, turned to look at the truck and what did I see? A starter bolt on the ground looking back at me! I literally said out loud- you had better have all of your #@*&# threads! Of course it did not. Short story long, previous owner installed a brand new starter, did not fasten the rear bracket, was in-fact bent. I retrieved the broken threads, the other bolt was of course bent. Cleaned both holes out with a tap and break parts cleaner. Straightened the bracket, went to the stealership for the bolts, fastenal for the 1/4x20 hardened allen head and lock washer and put her back together. I do realize how lucky I am. I know some of these break the block.
Also came across some money. Will be taking this to the stealership to have the glow plugs done for the hardstart. Let them take the chance for 348 bucks. They said it could be 200 more if they run into a challenge. I laughed and said, I will drop it off tomorrow after I get tires on it!

Put in the 195 thermostat, cleaned out the radiator fins and used scrubbing bubbles. Think it's time for the severe duty fan clutch. I believe mine has a few bolts rather than the one big one? Quotes are around $160? The truck still goes up to almost 210 but quickly back down. Otherwise runs like a champ.
What brand of thermostat did you use. Like the glow plugs there are only a few worth spending money on> AC Delco is one. I use a Stewart on all my single thermostat applications. I haven't ever had to replace one yet. I have the number posted on one of the other forums

I would give those glow plugs a bath of penetrating oil and give them a go before I spent that kind of money on them. Those guys are under the gun to hurry and more likely to break one off.

I have better luck working with a warm block. I always plug my block heater in for a couple hours before messing with glow plugs or other stuff that might be stuck in the block. If things go well you could probably do glow plugs in a couple of hours.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

What brand of thermostat did you use. Like the glow plugs there are only a few worth spending money on> AC Delco is one. I use a Stewart on all my single thermostat applications. I haven't ever had to replace one yet. I have the number posted on one of the other forums

I would give those glow plugs a bath of penetrating oil and give them a go before I spent that kind of money on them. Those guys are under the gun to hurry and more likely to break one off.

I have better luck working with a warm block. I always plug my block heater in for a couple hours before messing with glow plugs or other stuff that might be stuck in the block. If things go well you could probably do glow plugs in a couple of hours.
Heres the deal. If ever a lesson I have learned it is this. Looking at the starter horror story I narrowly avoided I stumbled upon the glow plug stories of broken plugs, head removal etc. At this point I will let them gamble. Actual diesel shop started bid at 600, said could be 2k or more. I think if they bid me 348 and make a boo-boo...its not on me at the end of the day.

[jrsavoie]

Make sure they use high temp anti-seez on the glow plug threads

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

For sure. Because the plan is, through out the year, buy a glow plug here, a plug their. Before ya know it I have 8 from out of no where. Whatever the recomended interval is by you guys to avoid disaster I will do. I am just letting them be the potentially life risking pioneer :)

[a5150nut]

By stack do you mean the other coolers? If so then yes. Looked like a mulch pile.

Yes you got it!

[jrsavoie]

For sure. Because the plan is, through out the year, buy a glow plug here, a plug their. Before ya know it I have 8 from out of no where. Whatever the recommended interval is by you guys to avoid disaster I will do. I am just letting them be the potentially life risking pioneer :)

There is no real interval on glow plugs that I know of. I like to pull mine every couple of years, test them - which takes all of about 10 seconds, give them a fresh coat of high temp anti-seez and re-install them.

This is mostly for the fresh coat of anti-seez.

You can test them in the block by unhooking the wire and using a continuity tester. From the spade to ground. You should read no more than .02 Ohms I believe it was. If you have a buzzer on your tester, it should be buzzing.

I just had a bad one on the Tahoe. #2 cylinder. Never even noticed. So far I've only got the drivers side done - that side only takes about 1/2 hour if you move slow like me.

I would still hose them down with penetrating oil. Even if or especially if you are taking it to be worked on.

If the previous owner installed good glow plugs at some point in time you might not be so bad off as what you might imagine.

It would not hurt to give them a shot of penetrating oil every day until you get them changed.

You can always give them a try and see if they will come out easy. If so you will have enough money for a date.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

$408 at the stealership vs. the $1000-1500 at the local diesel shop just for the initial starting price. Still just as hard starting. I am suspect of my connections to the plugs. I here something click when the key goes forward, could be anything. The glow plug light stays on for almost 10 seconds assuming, haven't really counted. Doesn't come back on if I just leave the key forward however. I will check my fuses, grounds to the module, continuity of the glowplug wires as well as for continuity to ground indicating a short, which I suspect should have blown a fuse. It really smokes the unburned fuel when trying to cold start...My lift pump is running when trying to start. I am going to pull the temp sensor in the morning before I start it too and see if that helps let the plugs run longer maybe too. Anything I may be missing?

I think by the time this truck is right...this thread will be reference point for all wayward 6.5ers :confused: And if I ever did sell it, which I honestly don't see happening, I am already in love with it; this will serve as proof that it had issues, but they were addressed with love ;)

[trbankii]

Still just as hard starting. I am suspect of my connections to the plugs. I hear something click when the key goes forward, could be anything. The glow plug light stays on for almost 10 seconds assuming, haven't really counted. Doesn't come back on if I just leave the key forward however. I will check my fuses, grounds to the module, continuity of the glowplug wires as well as for continuity to ground indicating a short, which I suspect should have blown a fuse. It really smokes the unburned fuel when trying to cold start...

Does the click coincide with the glow plug light coming on? Typically, a click, glow plug light, and dip on the voltmeter all coincide.

With temperatures dipping down into the low 40’s here, I’m starting to get a second cycle on the glow plugs after a bit. I turn the key forward, wait for the first cycle to end, start the truck, and then the glow plugs cycle again after a moment or two. As it gets colder, they’ll cycle a few times.

The smoking really points to a glow plug issue. Could also be sloppy injectors or various other issues as well, though.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

That will be todays findings. Im going to hook up the VOM, turn the key. Probably have the trouble light to the module at the same time as well.

[jrsavoie]

To test continuity for the glow plug wires, disconnect all of them.

Then leave your continuity tester clipped at the top where they are all together and test to the end of each wire. While you are there, you just as well test each glow plug.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

Got the PMD relocated, I damaged one of the pins and it started throwing codes when the accelerator is depressed (code 35, short fuel pulse I believe) otherwise it runs good, have a new one on the way. Built a headache rack for it and put a Diamond Eye "4 turbo back straight pipe on it. I have the #9 resistor on the PMD. Also did the Hayden severe duty fan clutch. Still cycling up to 210 for a couple seconds then back down to 190. I almost wonder if it is my old cracked surpentine belt? Even though I think the wear indicators show good, it still could be loosing traction and slipping. It is truly running better than ever before and sounds fantastic. Also no more code #78 or defueling issues except for maybe once in a blue moon. I thank all of you who helped me out. Anyone in my area who ever needs it, Doug at Owosso Hitch and Plow was the gigantic link to getting my plow operable. If not for him I would still be on the hunt for a harness and would have spent way more money than I needed too.

[J-Hardysrollncoal]

So keeping up with my idea that I was going to log the progress in hopes that it may help others, here I go with some updates. After the glow plug install with no improvement, a brand new glow plug control module was what was needed to make everything right. Per my normal ways of grinding and or otherwise cleaning all possible electrical and ground contacts, and spraying those and mounting threads where applicable with Fluid Film, as well as any future bolts and screws I may need to move one day when exposed with Fluid Film that is what got my truck starting like brand new. Especially this morning as I patiently waited for our first 12 degree morning without plugging the truck in overnight to simulate driving the truck to work where I would have now electrical access. Wouldn’t ya know it; she fired up with almost no effort and I believe the use of my glow plug override that I also built was just being paranoid.
The problem with my truck running at 210 degrees while under no load, just driving down the street at 55mph in 32 degree weather was ridiculous. I started with a 195 degree thermostat…no help. 2 bottles of redline water wetter, a third bottle; no help. A new radiator cap for the reservoir tank as well! Even knowingly having my system thoroughly bleed and the radiator to the point where a flashlight could be shined through it with no change in the beam from its cleanliness… still 210!!! So, I went with a high flow water pump, (HO stamped right on it), a 180 thermostat, and not my decision, but a new 2 core radiator. The 2 core I am good with as that is what Mishimoto has determined as a good design, and I know their theory on what works is proven. The fact that I broke the top hose bung while leaning on it un-knowingly…not a conscious decision.
So what no you might ask is my rig running at now? Well, I am proud to say that I have yet to see more then the second ding over the quarter mark between 160 and 210. So if I had to guess that is about almost 190? I am sure it is slightly off, and some of the more savvy Chevy gauge readers on here would know for sure. I decided after a good amount of reading many personal accounts to keep my single thermostat set up. So far the gauge is telling me the same thing as the guys’ gauges that have a double thermostat set-up for a bit less money. Also, I like the theory of surfactants, so I still ran a bottle of water wetter.
While on these changes I also deleted my vacuum pump finally, installed the newer shorter (I believe 100.5” belt). A while back I also got rid of my code, I believe it was #78 by installing a potentiometer. I put this in-line of what some call the turbo sensor, the mass air flow sensor etc. Either way it’s all over the internet under the terms “Boost-Fooler”.
So the truck runs like a top, accept for now the intermittent loss of power steering and abs that from my understanding is a check valve in the power steering, per a GM design flaw. Add that to the code #35 upon depression of the accelerator over say half way and it is still a truck I feel that I could drive to California and back no problem. For just starting out as a neighborhood plow truck, it has turned into a bit of a hobby.