View Full Version : Injector pump
bigtallguy
11-03-2003, 14:52
How much does it cost to change the injector pump? My truck has been stalling and the computer said that it was something with the injector pump. I had to take it to the dealership though, the mechanic I went to first said there was a block on the computer and it wouldn't narrow it down to one thing. I am just wanting to know how much this is going to end up costing me. Thanks.
The stealer cost on a new IP (part only) is about $1600. R&R is about 5 hours (GM gives the dealer about 3 hrs for a warranty IP replacement, but it wold be a serious stud mechanic that could do that) or maybe a bit more.
If you still have the Turbo Power cover, have the dealer toss it; if you can manage it I'd recommend having the FSD put on a remote heatsink while the overhaul is being done.
BTW, you can run the codes yourself easily; see:
http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/trblcode.htm
and you can post the results for opinions on whether its the IP or just the driver module (part cost is about $250, labor for install on the IP is about 3 hours; part + FSD Cooler + Remote Harness from JK is about $500 & labor should be about 1 hour). Also, BTW, there are other things it could be like grounds, which @ 200k could be suspect w/out too much trouble. See the Stalling article @
http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/tt99-9.htm
Hope this helps.
www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) sells the new GM pump for about $1175 with shipping and handling. Just replaced mine this weekend. 1 smashed finger, 3 short prayers, and about 10 hours of labor resulted in a new IP in place and purring--er growling like a cat. Do need to get the TDC offset learn process done. Still looking for somewhere other than the stealer to get it done.
bigtallguy
11-05-2003, 08:14
Well, bad news :mad: . They called and said they had to replace the IP. So there goes another $2,000, but hopefully that will solve my problems for a while. Ant tips to make the IP last longer, want to save some money in the future. Thanks.
Turbine Doc
11-05-2003, 08:49
Big Tall,
When you say stall what does it do just shutdown and then restart, or run rough all the time, sounds like another PMD fail from description thus far.
Get them specifically to say what they suspect, if it is a PMD that can be replaced independent of IP for, < $200 by yourself, might be worth trying that 1st, at any rate you would have a spare which is almost a necessity.
Mounting PMD on a cool plate seems to extend the life of the PMD, if IP is truly bad and I have reservations that it is, better fuel filtration prior to lift pump and using a fuel additive helps longevity, did you diagnose the fuel lift pump circuit to the IP if it isn't working that will stall the engine as well. Do you trust this dealer, before dumping $2000+ I'd do some troubleshooting further 1st
Bill K what year truck do you have I have a procedure you can try at any shop with a Snap-On MT-2500 scanner and program for your truck, it works for me looking to see if it works for others before posting, get with MP and get my email I'll send it you can try it.
Midwest fuel injection is where I got my pump form, I know mine is the mech. pump, but the people there are really nice and I only paid 397.00 that's getting delieved to my door. I having had any problems with it at all.
Hope this helps you.
Good luck
Damien Johnson
Phil Holmen
11-05-2003, 10:07
Tim I have access to a snap on scanner and would be interested in trying the procedure you have seeing as I need to get my timing and offset checked due to hard starting again... I don't believe that the dealer actually set my offset where I asked them too because there is not very much diesel rattle when I start my truck compared to alot of other 6.5 that I have heard...
bigtallguy
11-05-2003, 11:16
Stall meant it would just cut off when I was driving. It started out just cutting off and then on the way to the mechanic it started running really rough, then rode fine. It would usually cut off in the first few minutes of driving when the engine wasn't really hot or just as it was getting to operating temp. Usually after cutting off a few times it would run fine for the rest of the trip, and start again the next time I drove. Some days it would run fine and then the next day it wouldn't. When it did go dead it usually started right back up. Sound like the IP or something else?
Could be pump or FSD or grounds.
I have a theory that, especially on multi-pump changes on high milers or rigs that have received rough duty, that grounds contribute to the failure. Most guys look @ a ground & say "yeah its there & it 'looks' tight" and leave it at that. Grounds really need to be clean, torqued tight & ohm-tested on a 5 ohm scale to be sure they're good. Curing lousy grounds has been found to cure the stalling for more than a few rigs.
FSD indicator test is to read codes after an episode of failure; if no codes it is probably FSD, but only sure test is to replace w/new FSD & see problem go away. IP gives codes 17, 18, 35 &/or 36. The first two come from the Optical Sensor on top of IP, the second two from the fuel solenoid that meters fuel into the injector lines.
tom.mcinerney
11-05-2003, 19:59
b-t-g: DO check lift pump & OPS if prob not as bad once it runs for a while. And, tighten screws fastening PMD/FSD .
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