Voltage / amp issues?

[slicer89]

My 93 K2500 has a weird voltage / amp issue. Whenever I flick my turn signals on, my gauges freak out for a 2nd and go back to normal (Other than the oil pressure, and voltage gauge flickering as the light blinks) same goes for when the passenger window is operated from the passenger side, the gauges FREAK out and jump around, but the switch doesn't work from that side. (It works if I roll it down from driver switch)

The gauges also don't read accurately when the lights are one, the voltage drops down to around 10-11 volts) and the temp gauge goes up a little, and it makes the fuel gauge read less.

Also; Is it possible to wire in my own fuel gauge? Mine doesn't seem to read accurately at all, and it is annoying.

[a5150nut]

You can start by checking battery connections and cables for corrosion and clean all ground connections. You can use the search function for ground issues and find lots of posts related to electrical gremlins.

The sooner the better as you can cook your batteries or burn up your alternator.

[sctrailrider]

Classic signs of bad grounds, you should clean all the grounds, not just the battery, all of them..

[Robyn]

Yesssss, bad grounds

It may just be in the dash grounding harness, but check top make sure all body grounds are good


Grounds from the body to the frame, grounds from bat neg to chassis and body.

There is a ground harness under the dash that grounds the interior wiring (dash and such)

My dually gauges always got goofy when the signals were on, and the oil pressure would drop a click or two when the head lamps were turned on.

Grounds or possibly a voltage issue.

Older rigs are more susceptible to this stuff due to corrosion in connections.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
First get all the grounds cleaned up or replaced like stated above. If it is a small wire or a braided wire and you even think it might be a little corroded....replace it.
After that then check the fuel gauge. Do you mean that the gauge is flaky or does it just move faster at different stages?

[slicer89]

Howdy
First get all the grounds cleaned up or replaced like stated above. If it is a small wire or a braided wire and you even think it might be a little corroded....replace it.
After that then check the fuel gauge. Do you mean that the gauge is flaky or does it just move faster at different stages?

It floats around alot, Like I can put quite abit of fuel in it, and it will read over full... and then sometimes it will jump down to almost half a tank after driving a few miles, then it goes back up.

I'll check my grounds. The battery connections are fine... Already checked those.

[Robyn]

That type of erratic behavior is probably caused by a worn out sending unit in the tank.

[slicer89]

That type of erratic behavior is probably caused by a worn out sending unit in the tank.

And let me guess, I gotta pull the box off to get to the pump.

[DmaxMaverick]

And let me guess, I gotta pull the box off to get to the pump.

No, the pump is inside the frame rail below the driver's butt. easily accessible.

The sender is inside the fuel tank. Diesel models don't have an in-tank fuel pump. You don't have to remove the box/bed. It's just much easier and more effective than dropping the tank.

[Robyn]

What Maverick said :)

Any way you do it, its not a 15 minute job, but getting the bed off is by far easier as it allows you to easily remove the sending unit and hoses without a fight.

The tanks go into the truck prior to the bed going on and consequently the hoses don't have a lot of slack to work with.

Unless some stuff like goose neck hitches have been welded into the bed or ???? its not a hard job to do

[slicer89]

What Maverick said :)

Any way you do it, its not a 15 minute job, but getting the bed off is by far easier as it allows you to easily remove the sending unit and hoses without a fight.

The tanks go into the truck prior to the bed going on and consequently the hoses don't have a lot of slack to work with.

Unless some stuff like goose neck hitches have been welded into the bed or ???? its not a hard job to do

My truck has a hide a hitch and fifth wheel in the bed.. Don't think it's welded.

How does one take the box off? Seems like alot of work without a hoist of some kind. I've got a decent tool set, but no hoist or access to a lift.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Another option that I have done....
Cut an access hole in the bed. I realize this sounds extreme and that it seems kinda redneck...BUT it is an easy way to do it and you will have a handy access point if you ever have issues again.
If you are thoughtful, careful and do it right...it will turn out pretty decent and not cobbled up.
Just another option.
Doing it from the bottom is a real PITA. raising the bed can be done without a lift using a jack and boards to block the bed up and about 4 people when the time comes to move things.

[trbankii]

The bed isn’t all that heavy. Invite a few friends over, unbolt it, and lift it right off.

[Robyn]

The access port in the bed is not at all hard and can be easily done in short order.

once the area is located WELL you can drill four 3/8" holes, one at each corner of the area to be removed.

Next use a saber saw to cut between the holes.

Add four pieces of 3/16 flat bar under the lip ( fasten with a bolt on each end)

Once the sending unit is changed the piece you removed can easily be bolted back in place.

Not at all a bad deal.

I did this very thing on a truck I had that had a goose neck hide out hitch that was welded into the bed/frame

Just plan ahead and make the hole big enough the first time through, so you wont end up chopping the bed all up

Or as mentioned, get some buddies over and lift it off.

Two ten foot wood 4x4 across the bed, one front, one back and lash to tie down ports with nylon winch straps.

Lift the bed and either walk it off or drive the rig out.

DON'T FORGET THE REAR LIGHT WIRING AND THE FUEL TANK FILLER SPOUT.

If you live in the salt belt where rusty bolts are gonna be a bitch to deal with I would go with the access hole idea.


Good luck

Missy

[trbankii]

Two ten foot wood 4x4 across the bed, one front, one back and lash to tie down ports with nylon winch straps.

Lift the bed and either walk it off or drive the rig out.

I haven’t done that with my Chevy, but did it with the Toyota. Got some tall sawhorses and was able to lift the front of the bed (just by myself) to slide a 2x4 (the Toyota bed is pretty light) under it, then lift the back and slide a 2x4 under it, then just drove the truck out from under the bed - making sure that everything was disconnected and nothing was going to snag anywhere! I’m going to guess that you’d need two people to lift the GM bed to do similar - maybe a third to slide the 4x4s into place as the other two lift an end of the bed.

[DmaxMaverick]

Removing the bed isn't difficult. Sometimes it takes some ingenuity, but can be done in almost any situation. The last time I removed one for a friend (works out of town, needed it done), I did it solo. He didn't have any place for a hoist or storage, so I did it in the open lot behind his house. I drove a T-post (into the ground) at each corner of the bed and used motorcycle straps. I only needed to raise each corner a little at a time until high enough to roll out the truck.

Disconnecting is easy. Remove the tailgate (less weight), 4 or 6 bolts through the floor, tail lamp (and 5th wheel) electrical connectors, and fuel filler neck(s).

If a 5th wheel or goose neck hitch is bolted to the bed (only), now is a good time to do it right. It MUST be bolted/welded to the frame, and only pass through the bed. Some will have the bed bolted to the hitch platform, but this is only to secure the bed, not to secure the hitch.