Smokes, Runs like crap.

[slicer89]

93 K2500 6.5 TD.

Runs like crap when it first starts off, Seems like it's missing and it smokes alot of white, white-blue-ish smoke until it is driven for a while and warms up.

The glow plug light comes on like it should, And it even has an added button to override the factory system... Doesn't make any difference on how long they are on.

Once it warms up, it runs great, only blows black smoke when I get on it (turbo isnt building boost)

any ideas?

[trbankii]

Have you checked the glow plugs to make sure they’re actually working? How old are they?

[slicer89]

Have you checked the glow plugs to make sure they’re actually working? How old are they?


unsure of age. How do I check to see if they are working? How hard are they to replace and where are they located? I really need a FSM...

I need to get them working before winter, Because winters here can be harsh and I need to be able to drive my truck.

[trbankii]

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showpost.php?p=308376&postcount=9

[slicer89]

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showpost.php?p=308376&postcount=9


It seems like they are cheap (Autozone has them for $8.99 AC delco brand) so I might just replace them all and check the hardness.

[DmaxMaverick]

This is probably beyond glow plugs. If it starts (at all), it isn't the glow plugs after a few seconds. Look at a set of GOOD OEM grade injectors (no Ebay or snake oil crap). Kennedy or other TDP vendor is preferred. Then, address your glow plugs and turbo issues.

[Robyn]

I agree 100% with Dmax on this issue

The injectors wear out and instead of spraying a nice fine mist, they pee a stream.

Been there a few times with these engines.

If you have a reputable diesel pump and injector shop in your area, your injectors can be rebuilt.

As Maverick said, stay away from ebay and the like.

You mentioned "no boost"
Do you have a boost gauge on the truck ???

The waste gate on the turbo has a spring in the little control assembly.

Remove the little spring pod on the turbo and make sure the waste gate lever on the side of the turbo will move open and closed freely.

Likely the issue is the waste gate control is bad.

[slicer89]

Great - Was hoping it wouldn't be injector issues..... How hard are they to replace? And is there anything wrong with autozones house brand Duralast?

[Robyn]

Not hard to swap them out on the driver side, but removing the turbo will make the pass side easy as well.

THE Zone has a good warranty, should be ok

[DmaxMaverick]

Autozone's generic store brand is about the same cost as Kennedy (http://www.kennedydiesel.com/categoryresults2.cfm?Category=1&SubCategory=160)'s Delphi injectors, as a set. Autozone Delphi injectors are 80 bucks, each. I have no idea where Autozone sources their Duralast brand injectors, but a guess would be, probably the same as other no-names (spent some time on a boat to get here).

You will also need an installation kit, which includes the copper washers and return lines. 30 bucks from Kennedy, 63 from Az.

[slicer89]

Autozone's generic store brand is about the same cost as Kennedy (http://www.kennedydiesel.com/categoryresults2.cfm?Category=1&SubCategory=160)'s Delphi injectors, as a set. Autozone Delphi injectors are 80 bucks, each. I have no idea where Autozone sources their Duralast brand injectors, but a guess would be, probably the same as other no-names (spent some time on a boat to get here).

You will also need an installation kit, which includes the copper washers and return lines. 30 bucks from Kennedy, 63 from Az.

Is there any write-up or "How to" on the installation?


Not hard to swap them out on the driver side, but removing the turbo will make the pass side easy as well.

THE Zone has a good warranty, should be ok


Anything I need to do the pump, or anything? I know that diesels HATE any sort of air bubble in the lines.

[DmaxMaverick]

They're slightly more difficult to replace than spark plugs. Easier than many spark plugs I've replaced. I strongly recommend getting a 6.2/6.5 injector socket for the R/R. There are other ways, but the correct socket makes it SO much easier. Check Ebay, Harbor Freight, or shell out some big bucks for Snap-On.

You don't have to do anything with the fuel system, once they're replaced. Any air in the system will only be AT the injector, which is negligible, and the return lines, which is benign. Fewer issues possible than changing the fuel filter. Once installed, you can leave the injector line nuts a little loose and crank it some. This will push out any air in the lines (which won't be much unless you remove them). While it isn't really required, some do it anyway. I don't bother with it.

[slicer89]

They're slightly more difficult to replace than spark plugs. Easier than many spark plugs I've replaced. I strongly recommend getting a 6.2/6.5 injector socket for the R/R. There are other ways, but the correct socket makes it SO much easier. Check Ebay, Harbor Freight, or shell out some big bucks for Snap-On.

You don't have to do anything with the fuel system, once they're replaced. Any air in the system will only be AT the injector, which is negligible, and the return lines, which is benign. Fewer issues possible than changing the fuel filter. Once installed, you can leave the injector line nuts a little loose and crank it some. This will push out any air in the lines (which won't be much unless you remove them). While it isn't really required, some do it anyway. I don't bother with it.


Thanks - I found this searching for 6.2/6.5 injector socket. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5060-Detroit-Diesel-Injector/dp/B002Y0B7AQ

[DmaxMaverick]

That looks OK, but a lot more $$ than I last checked. Any 30mm deep socket will work, and the hex is nice. Just checked Ebay, and they don't have anything better to offer. If you remove the turbo, you don't need the hex top, so any 30mm deep socket will work. Damn.... That's a lot of cash for something so simple. I don't know where mine is right now, but I'll be sure to find it, and guard it! Harbor Freight listed one, but I can't find it, now.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Several years ago I made a small batch of these sockets and sold them for $20. Advantage to mine was that they were made to minimum dimensions and worked great for doing the job without removing turbo. There might still be an article in the DP archives about how to make your own. Basically it is two sockets and some cutting/welding. depending on the 30mm socket you might have to do some machining.
I might tool up and make another batch...but not any time soon.

I have done injectors both ways: with turbo removed and without on both pickups and suburbans.

- If you are going to keep the truck I would invest in the DP R&R manual

- If bolts can be easily removed, take off the turbo. Generally makes the job easier. By the time you get all the heat shields and other crap out of the way, the turbo will only be another 10 bolts.

- Really consider replacing the IP, about half the work will already done by doing the injectors. If the injectors are worn, the IP might be getting tired as well depending on how the PO treated it, type of fuel ran in it, ect.

- day or two before you do the job, spray all the lines with some Kroil at the injector fitting a couple times. Helps the lines from twisting.

- Make sure the ends of the new injectors stay CLEAN!!! Clean out the holes as best you can with a vac and wire bottle brush. Use some good never seize one the new injectors.

- Don't forget the new washers!

- Install the injector return plug lines BEFORE you do the injectors in #7 and 8. Some sockets wont allow this but if yours does it is helpful.

- For the price difference I would go with the Vendors from the DP for parts or a local shop that is reputable.

Hope this helps !
Good luck!